If you are taking video requests I would appreciate a carb sync as well as a valve clearance check for regular scheduled maintenance. Thanks for all your efforts with the videos you've already done it is bery much appreciated!
Hi thanks for the comment, valve clearance is on my to do and video list so I will be doing one at some point but not sure when yet . For Carb sync / balancing there is a good video done by a channel called Kawasaki zx6r - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TqgWrQUWIdI.htmlsi=yuw-pv-c5mr7FIou
Best ZX6R channel on RU-vid! Just ordered the parts on eBay ready to do this at the weekend, thanks to your help! Already can't wait to see what you're going to do next! 👍
Hi no I've not heard or read anything about using cr8e spark plugs in colder weather 🤔 it's something I'm now going to have a look in to . 9 times out of 10 tho it's best to stick with what the manual says .
Yeah I agree sticking with the manual is likely best. I’ve recently picked up the same bike as you and need to do a major carb overhaul and service and bought the CR8EIX plugs. I’ll let everyone know if it was a bad idea 😂
Hi mate really enjoy your vids also help me a few times 🙂 when ever you get chance can you do a chain and sproket vidoe please that would really help as theres none i can find on youtube off this with the ninjas j2 🙂 thank you
Hi , glad your enjoying the videos and find them helpful. I'll be doing a chain and sprocket video very soon as the chain on my bike has a few stiff links and has seen better days . I'm planning on changing the gearing -1 / +2 what will also involve having to fit a speedo healer aswell .
@@f15hlermoto thank you very much as ive upgraded my j2 chain and sprokey but not to sure how to do that if im honiest but ive gota 14 frontand a 45 for that back 🙂 also a few extra links had it made from kawazaki cost 180 with the chain too 🙂
I noticed you’ve got a nifty vacuum tube deletion on your engine and the reed valves are joined together. How and why did you do it and what’s the effect?
Hope Tyler dosent mind me answering. So removing the secondary air valve vacuum firstly does nothing for performance. Lots of people will tell you your get more bhp which is nonsense. Second it really does tidy up and make it easier to work on the bike, whether doing plug change, refitting the air box or carb balancing. Now the real only reason you wanna do it is for when your tuning your bike. So when your bike is on a dyno and you have the air/fuel rod up the exhaust, rather than the valve every now and then pushing unburnt fuel out you end up with a consistent reading meaning your main jet and needle clip adjustment is more accurate. So really only when your fitting an exhaust and dyno jet kit or just adjusting your fueling as generally these bikes run rich. Hooe that helps.
@@kawasakizx6r813 thanks a lot for the reply. I thought it was something like that. So there’s not really any negatives in doing it apart from it’s not as good for the environment? It would be nice to tidy it up as it was a nightmare changing plugs and carb balancing last weekend. It’s such a convoluted mess of tubes above the cylinder head. I’ve had a look for a guide on it but can’t seem to find one. Would I reroute or cap off the vacuum pipes. I’ve seen some reed valve blanking plates which look ideal but are these better? Should I blank off the hoses to the air box? Sorry for all the questions
@benzorc So you can use blanking plates if you want, they are just more expensive. Normally there is a kit with the blanking plates which supply all the other necessary caps to block off hoses. You can block/cap off the tubes coming from the head or as Tyler has done join them. Then from the vacum valve that you are removing there is a thin hose that comes from the back to the front that goes into a plastic T pipe. This plastic T pipe connects to cylinder 2&3 ( the middle two) rubber inlets (the part that connects engine to carbs via a small black hose). Numbers 1 and 4, the outer ones are already blocked off. Just block off 2 &3 now like 1 and 4. Then from the front of the vacumm valve is a large black cylinder, connected to this is a larger black hose. This connects to the black plastic that holds the plastic air inlet trumpets on the carbs. Its connected underneath on the right hand side. This will also need capping off. Personally I used black silicone caps and cable ties, worked out cheaper Hope that helps.
Thanks for the really good explanation Tim 👍 The main reason I done the kleen air mod was because the kleen air diverter on my bike had cracks in it and it needed replacing and there was no point in me doing it as I've currently got a jet kit to go in my bike and it will need to go on the dyno . Also it makes the top end a lot cleaner and easer to work on . I've noticed no performance gains from doing this but it should give a more accurate reading when it comes to the dyno . I used a solid bit of bar I had laying around to plug the read valves but you can get blank off plates . The pipes that come off carb no 2 &3 I left on but plugged it where the 2 become 1 .
