Don't do it this way or you will have an out of time engine or perhaps a "cam actuator adjustment limit exceeded" code. The correct way is to also remove the cam phaser pulley caps off and loosen the 4 center pulley bolts. Then when you have free play, you can go ahead and do what this guy is showing on the dr side tensioner. He is right about the torque specs. It's 33 ft lbs. Also, before you release the pin on the pas side tensioner you need to preload the belt to 30 ft lbs. Then release the pin and then preload again to 18 ft lbs. Then you turn the 2 exhaust adjusters inside the cam pulleys to their end limit. Then you tighten the center bolts to 100Nm. That's the proper way.
I've worked on many German cars for the past 40 years and the 1.8t Audi/VW engine is probably the easiest to work on. Even if the timing belts fails and bends valves it's easier to pull the head to replace the valves or just slap on another good used cylinder head. Inline 4 of course is much easier since it not a V6 or V8 configuration and you don't have to pull another head and replace more valves.
Thanks so much brother for the video! I tried to comment earlier but I didn't realize that I have to finish comments before the video ends! I have a 2004 A6 3.0 with the AVK (double overhead cam) like you show but I watched ALL the videos I could find on replacing the timing belt but NONE of them show what you show about how to properly tension the belt! I even bought a Bentley service manual but it didn't even show the AVK (DOC) motor and I paid over $100.00 for that book! So YOU ROCK my brother! The other thing no one showed was the allen size socket to remove/install the plug for the crankshaft holding tool because i'm trying to do it with the engine installed so I have to use long extensions and try to get the allen socket into the plug through all the interference under the engine and the car! so it would be REALLY nice to do know that and not have to pull the extensions back out (I'm and "old guy" too so I can't see as well as I used to!) I felt bad you were apologizing so much man hey you DID GREAT holding the camera and doing all the work you did! You were a blessing from God for me and answered all my questions because I was getting REALLY FRUSTRATED! God Bless You and your future videos!
I have actually been trying to fix a a6 with the same motor, the mechanic i took it to screwed me over and it was a lawn ornament for 2 years, i have everything apart and am doing this with the engine in the car since theres a little more wiggle room in the larger engine bay, great video it helped someone else!
Looks like the only special tool you may need is the cam shafts lock tool. Unless you can rig something up with visegrips or wrenches to hold them in place. I don't think the crankshaft lock is necessary since you can align/hold the crank from the bolt (24mm I'm guessing) and anything can be made for the two holes on the pulley. Just after you align the TDC mark on the crank just mark everything with a stencil or paint pen so you're sure everything lines up installing the new belt. I've done many A4 1.8t and A8/S8 4.2 engines which use different "special" tools. The 3.0 is slightly different. Wish they just designed it so you can use the V8 cam locking tool. But what's the fun in that since you wouldn't have to buy more "special" tools. lol
The cam sprockets need to be loose when setting the belt tension. They are torqued to spec after setting the belt tension. And replace the o-rings on the caps of the camshaft adjuster. Another thing, use the special tool to make sure the camshaft adjuster is in its correct position. I have not had one that needed correction, but I still always check. It is the same principle as all the belt driven V style Audi engines.
Hello, its nice to see, that you use the correct tools for the camshaft. Many Engines of this type were killed because people dont use the correct tools. Greetings from Germany!
What if the driver side cam moved maybe an 1/8 inch while torquing down the cam pulley? The cam bar slipped a little cause I didn’t have it fully seated. The cam bars still go on when I set it to top dead center but I’m nervous to even move forward until I find a solid answer
GQ Auto Diagnostics Do you do anything with the cam gear timing when you do these? I'm in the middle of doing this on mine (2005 3.0L BGN w/auto), and I've read about loosening the cam gears, 10nM counter clockwise, then retightening the cam gears.. is this a necessary step in replacing the timing belt? or if I don't move them, can the new belt be put on as they are?
What’s the tool in the back of the engine ? Do you have to have that in ? I’m doing this on my car and don’t know how I’ll be able to get to that part of the engine without taking it out
I didn’t use the tool to lock the crank, the only way I see you needing it is if the engine is removed. I just marked my crankshaft gear with a permanent marker and made sure it stayed aligned the whole time.
@@El_Papon not a good way. When you go to tension the belt it can move a hair and you won't be able to see it but it will put the engine out of its timing. Maybe not very noticeable, but definitely it will be less efficient. If you can't lock the crank you must use a dial gauge indicator with the appropriate vag adapter to find tdc and ensure it hasn't moved - not even by half a degree.
This job is possible without the lockers and special tools.you just need to mark every thing with a white marker crank cam shaft sprockets.the belt so you can count the teeth and mark the new belt on the same teeth..
You are correct is can be done with out a tool. Unfortunately no everyone can pay attention to the details. Therefore, is best to get the tool, is only around $60 on ebay. It makes the job a lot easy and faster on my opinion. Thank ypu for you comment and please subscribe to my channel.
Just make sure to count your money in your bank account first, to ensure you have enough to buy yourself a new engine when you bend all the valves trying to mark things and cut corners.
Yep, you really need the proper tools, the camshaft bolts need to be loosened so the cam gear is loose, pretension the belt, then unpin the main tensioner (etc) then you have to align the timing of the cam gears using the suppied tool ( preloading them ) so the VVT can work properly.
