This video document all of the tasks required to replace the for seals on this 2002 Harley Davidson Sportster as part of a standard fork rebuild project. technocoma.blogspot.com
Not a bad video. But it's a good idea to break the damper rod bolt loose B4 removing the top cap. Spring pressure helps keep the damper rod from spinning. They can be a real bear. It's also easier to bleed the air out B4 putting the spring and cap back in. Just pump it up and down a few times slowly. Believe me, these tips will help.
Thank you for this, I love how you edited this to be quick and to the the point. You do a very good job not over explaining things and just showing us how to do it.
Nice job, have a few weeks ago brought my 95 Harley Davidson 883 sportster. These videos helping me learn about my machine. She has been well looked after since she was new but still ,,,,
Is there any concern of the forks going in the triple trees mis-aligned? In other words twisted, to where the axle won't go back in correctly. My seals are not leaking, and I wanted to put some progressive springs in it, and change the oil. Do I need to pull the forks and drain them, or can I just pump the fluid out, and put my New springs in? Is 5 1/2" from the top of where the cap threads in, to the top of the oil about the right level? (with the spring removed, and the fork compressed)
I know it moved along pretty quick ..while ya have it apart go ahead and check the dampener for tru,,some times they get bent..along with that also the legs..just an fyi...And replace the wiper rings as well...
What size Allen wrench did you use ? And what does PVC mean I got lost on that one !! I need to do mine but the chrome piece is rusted can’t use it . What about using a dust boot ? Guess I should finish watching the video and got excited when I found your video guess you could say I jumped the gun ! 🤔 Thanks for making this video !
@scott black To the top of the fork. There's a reason you don't overfill the forks. Because you need both air and fluid. so the fluid will eventually displace the air pockets and the air will return to the top of the fork with the rest of the empty space (air)
The only thing that you did the hard way was getting the air out of the bottom of the slider. I was always taught pump the fork tube slowly with no springs in it with fork cap off then measure your fork fluid to get a accurate measurement. Also should always measure your fork oil level not just a set ml amount
Would have been nice if you mentioned one thing. The size of PVC you were using. What is it because, that's the bitch of the whole job. Cut a Hex to use in a socket for the lower bolt. Lots easier. Other wise really good video. Thanks for posting.
1.5" PVC worked like a charm for me. Great idea. Cost me .82 cents instead of $45.00 so good on you guys. New seals, some bellray 20W and a couple hours. Too easy and my bike rides better than new with the good seals and fluid. Out of pocket the job cost me $33 total. At a shop that could have been a lot more. I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade so this was simple stuff. Just had to see it done once after reading the book. Check my videos. 00 Dyna with a fun engine I built. Cheers
1. rip leaking parts off the bike 2. go buy some random junk from the hardware store 3. question the factory's design decisions 4. hit everything with a hammer until it looks ok yeah this checks out for Sportster maintenance
1. Look for help online to repair something 2. Think you know better after watching the video 3. Compile a meaningless list, so you think you're smart 4. Shitpost as if anyone cares
The fork seals are pretty cheap actually less then $15.00 @ your local dealership. I used hydrolic fluid in place of the Harley fork oil. Which I personally think was a better and cheaper choice.
