Oh yes. I'm tempted too. Currently experiencing this start and die. Sometimes I turn ignition on and off about 4 times so it primes more. With that it starts better. EDIT - I didn't need to do this. It all became okay after my next fuel purchase. And has been fine since.
Yes! Keep up the Accord videos as there is a growing number of us that love these cars but can be difficult finding information and specifics about the older models which of course are the most fun to work on and modify.
That was an excellent video showing us how to do it. And you provided excellent links and descriptions for the video . Very few RU-vidrs take the trouble to do this . Thanks a lot.
I just finished this procedure on my 2004 Accord EX. Your video was a huge help. My filter was brown, but not as dirty as yours. And yes I also replaced the pressure regulator. Thanks for a informative video.
You are certainly a very good tutor to details, plus, you are good in what you do. You are helping millions of people out there. Keep the good work up, overtime this will grow your subs. Kudos Doc.
Thank you and thank you. I have a check engine light on and you made this look soooo easy, that I know I can do it. You probably just saved me a ton of money! Have I said THANK YOU??
It is difficult to get detailed, straightforward answers for specific Honda questions at times. This channel is possibly the best I've come across, and I've seen dozens! I highly recommend this channel, I'll be back again and again myself. Subscribed and for all notifications. Thank you for your information and your help!
Thankx bro. Exactly what mine is doing every morning. Will start and make this cranking noise and then stop. I think I’m gonna change the fuel filter ASAP.
Same here. First engine, first transmission. If your lucky to have bought clean gas largely and you follow through with inspecting the strainer, yours might be better than mine. Lol
Wow! mine has 282k miles on it and #4 fuel injector just stopped spraying. Having all the original Injectors cleaned for the first time...I'm glad I saw this video because it's making me want to clean these parts now too!
It can also be caused by poor quality gas! Maybe before replacing the whole unit, try a good octane booster/cleaner and see if it helps? Thanks for the compliment!
Oh shit, the location is that simple? Thanks for showing me where I can access it. I was worried i had to take out the entire rear sofa. Which on the Tourer is a nightmare. A word of advice would be to first mark the location of the retaining ring with a sharpie, that way you know you've tapped it in far enough when you assemble it again.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Do you happen to know if this model Accord has a schrader valve somewhere to monitor fuel pressure? My Accord is running lean during WOT. :( I'm suspecting the pump, because it makes a grating noise when I fire it up.
No schrader valve on this Accord. I did a video some years ago (some of my first on RU-vid!), on how to check fuel pressure for this 7th gen Accord. Here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WkKKyPNaOMQ.html
Just learned there even was a fuel filter for my 2003 accord... I'm pretty sure honda never serviced it in the 19 years I've had them work on it. Thanks for making it look like another something I can actually do myself. (Also contemplating replacing the plugs a little early, not really due for another 40K (at 330K) yet, but gas mileage is a little lower since having had the vtec housing gasket replaced.)
Did the deed Thursday and finished Sunday. What kept me from completing on Thursday was that it literally took me an hour or three to get the pump back in properly (finally thanks to your hint to put the rubber seal in first, though even that took a few tries) and mostly getting the ring back on properly, which was a total fail after dozens of tries. On the off chance that a cheap tank wrench tool might help (and I'm pretty sure it did as it only took a few tries today and it's a good tight fit), I ordered that tool in and took two days off for my ancient fingers to recover. Today I first looked at a few other similar videos to see if there were any better hints on getting the ring back on easily (nope), but ran into one that probably helped which gave me the idea to put the back seats down and access the pump ring from inside the car instead of inside the trunk (d'oh). Bingo I suspect. In the end, turns out it wasn't very dirty in the pump, a number of larger dirt particles and some smaller ones, probably a few dozen all told. The original filter was pretty clean. So it goes... and now I know better. Your video pretty much had all the steps and I'm not going to even try and count the number of times during several of the steps I went back and forth from one end of the house (the garage) to the other (this office) looking to see how easy you made it look and what I wasn't quite getting right. So excellent video, but I'd recommend a cheap-ish tank wrench tool be procured for putting the ring back on more easily (and probably taking it off in the first place), do the ring back on part and the last few steps from inside the car (do the rest from the trunk as it can get quite messy with all the dirt and especially the gasoline).
Well said! Never thought of going from inside the car vs trunk! With experience, I've gotten so used to the trunk route that it only takes me a couple minutes to unmount/mount the ring. In my earlier days, it used to take quite a bit of tries to get the ring back on🥵, so I totally understand! Glad you got it done, plus the confirmation of not being too dirty. Cheers.
@@DIYAutoworksNG ah, I was only Able to find the one that added the word injection to it, so I just got that one. Couldn't find the fuel regulator version
Yes I did. I put out a poll via the community section options were the usual vs the current and whether subscribers didn't mind. Most people didn't mind, but the current name got votes more than the former. In fact, the former got no votes🤣. So, I thought to optimize the channel name. Thanks for asking!
@@DIYAutoworksNG Ohh i was just wondering 'cuz i was looking for the idle relearn video on the Accord and i thought someone copied your video and upload under a different username 😅 Have a Nice day now.😎
Good job Piyke, I am quite surprised that this Accord doesn't have a fuel filter in the reservoir. In european Accord we have a strainer for the fuel pump like in your video that stays on the bottom of the fuel tank and a sealed plastic box part of the fuel pump housing with a filter material inside. Manual asks to change it around 80000km.
Im in USA been working on a 04 CR-V but built in UK. I have asked parts stores, mechanics, google, anyone i could were my fuel filter is. Eberyone keeps saying no filter just strainer. Finally i found it in the modular assembly. You pretty much have to buy the bottom half of the assembly to get it. But at least i found it finally !
Great video, The fuel pressure regulator will be on the same location for honda accord 2010? Recently Fuel filter has been replaced but I'm getting this P00004 - Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit High code,
I have an 06 Accord 2.4 liter with 341k miles. Car is running great, no problems…would you recommend replacing filter even though you're not having any issues???
The real easy to replace I would suggest taking a strong piece of metal maybe a thin pipe very thin like from a paper towel dispenser and running it across the top of the o lock so that it doesn't come undone unexpectedly because they're known to give out overtime.
hello, i changed my car's fuel pump two nights ago. the engine started and ran for up to 5min so i left it to to fix the seat since i had to remove the seat to reach the pump( its a hybrid). i got bat to the car yesterday and the engine ran only at idle but now it would not start anymore. i went to check the old one only to find a plastic and rubber seal seating on the neck of the pump but i dont know the sequence of fixing the the seal and the plastic. please can you enlighten me?
Hi there, very nice videos! We need more of these for the accords "") I have the 7th gen euro accord wagon 2.4l automatic and i get this shaking/jerking (i don't know what's the right word) from the engine always at same speeds around 2000rpm 40-50km/h and 80-90km/h while sligthly pressing the gas pedal, like the engine lacks fuel or air. Also the rpms are jumping a little bit while driving at steady speed around 80-90km/h. I don't know if its realted to this video or is it trans related but would be very helpful if you can point where to check or what to look for. Thanks!
Thanks a lot for the compliment! Do you have a check engine light? It could be worn spark plugs especially with the bouncing RPM. However, a lot of other things may be in play here. Air and fuel supply need to be checked as well. A scan will help point you in the right direction.
Thanks! I don't have any CEL i changed the spark plugs when i got the car and it was like that, recently i changed them again and still the same not getting better or worse ill run a scan when i can cuz I don't have scan tool but people here telling me it needs to be original honda scanner to get correct readings.
@@mitakks I'm suspecting it's an issue with your v-tec solenoid assembly or strainer. But then, I would expect this to give a Check Engine Light and a fault code. You said you don't have that, so I'm no so sure.
Thanks for the update. Any good scanner will work. Doesn't have to be Honda or even expensive. Since there is no CEL, what you'll need is access to live data to observe the fuel trims. NB: on this Accord, fuel delivery issues may not trip a code, same goes for a very dirty air cleaner element (aka air filter). When last did you change the air cleaner element(engine)?
Exactly! An iVTEC issue that causes surging at speed (limp mode) will cause a CEL. @Mitakks - does the CEL come on initially when you turn on the ignition but don't crank?
Have you ever had one where the car idle hood but once you put ur foot on the gas pedal the car shakes and back fire like it’s running out of gas. I checked timing vacuum leaks, sparks and all of it checks out and no codes when I scan it I’m thinking it’s fuel pressure
Sounds fuel pressure-related to me. Can give severe symptoms without codes, another culprit on this Accord can be badly clogged engine air cleaner elements. I suggest checking fuel pressure.
keep getting p0171 and p0420 only when its freezing outside, do you know what that could be? ive replace the o2 sensor, clean the maf sensor and pcv but still no luck..
Do you have an exhaust leak? Especially pre-catalytic converter... Start with the P0171. This video may be of help. You'll need to do some testing using fuel trim data. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-O5KI0GHNX7Y.html
My 2003 Honda accord EX won’t start at all. Changed out the entire Exhaust after my Cat was stolen. Ran great after the test drive. 3 days later it just wouldn’t start. We checked the battery and the fuses. Everything checks out. I thought it might be the fuel pump. But I can hear it working. I’m so confused and frustrated. After watching this video now I’m thinking it may just be a dirty filter. I’ll let you know how it goes. 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Hey so I was looking for a video on how to change the fuel filter on this model (mine is 2004). I was under the impression that the fuel filter was just a small cylinder under the car?
Possibly the relay. Other causes of difficulty starting after fill up include, the fuel pump strainer, the fuel pump itself, EVAP problems, defective fuel pressure regulator etc. Let us know how it goes. Best of luck.
Great video, simple techniques. However you didn't crank the engine again to see if it would start on a first try after replacing the fuel filter. That would have summed up the video. But thanks all the same.
Mine was at 260,000 miles (416,000km)😨. I guess 148k is not that bad especially if you are not having any symptoms. On the other hand, if you every have fuel delivery issues, I would say you change the filter.
My 09 accord has 185,000 miles and seems to be using up fuel more than before, and at times wont start on the first try. Should I replace the fuel pump?
Is the CEL on? Will be good to hook up a scanner to look at fuel trim data first. I won't advise throwing parts at the car. Using just fuel trim data, there's a simple test you can do to find out if the fuel pump is failing. The definitive test will be reading the fuel pressure. On the seeming increased fuel consumption, you can run a good fuel system cleaner in the tank to see if it helps.
@@DIYAutoworksNG no the CEL is not on. I just noticed it's been consuming more gas. And at times it takes more than one try to start it. I just replaced the starter a year ago. I do add Lucas fuel system cleaner ti the gas on occasions ...
I see. No codes. This is where reading fuel trim data matters a lot to get to the bottom of the increased fuel consumption. In the meanwhile, be sure to rule out under inflated tires, binding brakes etc. You can usually rule out binding brakes as the affected wheel(s) will feel hotter than the rest.
That's mostly beyond you, since it's up to the gas stations to ensure they clean out there tanks and fix leaks. One practice you can adopt is to not refuel if you see a supply tanker within the gas station or a supply just happened. Supplies usually stir up sediment in the underground tank, so it's best to buy after it resettles.
So many things can cause a hard start. You'll have to troubleshoot your way through: worn spark plugs, dirty injectors, O2 sensors, dirty air filter, fuel filter, fuel pump etc..
@@DIYAutoworksNG it was a way harder start until I changed the air filter. No it's just on the second attempt. I might replace the fuel pump next. Spark plugs have been replaced.
Nice video man, please I have an issue with my 2004 accord, the problem started with anytime I fill up my tank and start my engine the car will rough idle and goes off up to five times, I will have to apply little acceleration for it to be stable after several attempts, now the car is rough idling and going off in hold ups. It will only move smoothly on Fred road and high speeds. Please what is the solution, I have tried several things and still no improvement.
A number of things can cause stalling after buying gas: failing fuel pump, contaminated gas, defective valve in the EVAP system etc. You mentioned trying many things, what have you tried?
@@DIYAutoworksNG thanks for your prompt response, I have changed fuel pump, cleaned nozzles, bought gas from different stations too. The scan I did using a small Bluetooth obd2 scanner talked about camshaft sensor bank A1, o2 sensors and evap issues too.
@@DIYAutoworksNG this vibration and going off only occurs at low speed, hold up or after filling up my tank, the car drives perfectly at higher speeds.
My money is on the EVAP for the stalling, since the scan has flagged that. The camshaft/O2 codes are likely responsible for the rough idle you talked about. Air-fuel ratio is likely off and timing affected too. What's your STFT and LTFT at?
So the filter is inside the fuel pump ? Is it visible or can you even replace that filter ? I been looking everywhere on my car and can’t find the fuel filter anywhere.
@@DIYAutoworksNG yeah I looked online and every website and RU-vid video all just beat around the bush big time and nobody has explained it so far lol I have an 07’ Honda accord 2.4 liter. I’m guessing it’s built into the damn fuel pump which makes life more difficult instead of having it under the damn hood or atleast under the car and have it be accessible. Car manufacturers do everything they possibly can now days to make sure it’s too hard to fix issues and it results in taking your car to a shop lol owning a car is all about losing money and always having problems. Huge scam since everyone gets paid more than the owner of the vehicle lol but I’m trying to learn this crap because I need a vehicle for work and can’t do my job without getting to work. I miss my 95’ Plymouth voyager because every single thing was able to be fixed with basic knowledge… we’ll except for the A/C system but besides that I was able to access parts in the van and even put a good stereo inside very easily. Can’t do that now days unless you went to school for it or just a genius with cars
Hello. Sorry to hear this. How are you going about doing it? Fit the rubber sleeve first, then insert the fuel pump assembly. From here, I have used 2 approaches that work: 1st is as in the video. Push down the assembly until it sits well in the opening. The friction with the rubber sleeve usually keeps the retaining ring down. Second method is to attach the retaining ring push down slightly then twist on the retaining ring. Rely on the screwing on of the retaining ring to put the fuel pump assembly in position. Which of the 2 have you been using?
@@DIYAutoworksNG I climbed into the trunk and used my palms with back braced against trunk lid. I think it’s in good. Thank you for responding. The gas line on top of sending unit is giving trouble, but will try again tomorrow. It’s been a week trying to change the filter which wasn’t very dirty. I don’t know why the car died out after a minute, it’s fine when I gave it gas. Maybe the fuel filter is not the reason it was dying. It started dying after I had the Honda up on jacks a few days changing the serpentine belt and replacing the top high pressure power steering line. I thought maybe the position of car clogged the filter. But I don’t think so.
Good to know you've sorted the retaining ring. Maybe it's something else causing the stalling. If you don't have a CEL, you can observe for a bit. Could be bad gas or something else
This is a 2003 Accord 4cyl, LX. US spec. It`s LEV. Is yours ULEV? There's some regional variability in parts plus manufacturers may update certain parts as defects are identified. It's usually best practice to buy parts buy VIN. And yours is stock, right?
So did it fix your problem you was having? Only ask cause when I first start my car in the morning or after it sets a few days it has a long crank and then misses for a few seconds and then straightens up.. And don’t do it the rest of the day.
It didn't fix the issue although it's a potential cause. I eventually found the actual problem to be poor quality gas. I could eliminate or recreate the problem by buying gas from certain gas stations!
Question: If the initial filter that filters out a coarse particles so dirty it means that dirt could go upstream and contaminate fine filter located inside the plastic case (looks like crescent). Also dirt can damage the pump itself, no? So... Replacing that filter at the bottom may solve the issue with fuel pressure for now. But how long it will be before the entire pump will die?
That's the purpose of the filter, to trap the dirt. What you would rather have will be a clogged filter which restricts the aspiration of fuel from the tank. It's practices like washing and reusing a fuel filter (except if specifically designed) or using aftermarket filters that do not meet OEM spec, that may alter the filter pore diameter and increase the risk of dirt getting into the pump. But very good observation I must say.
It's all the usual drivability issues you would expect with a failing fuel pump (hard starting, stalling, etc), but also includes a louder than normal fuel pump whine, black smoke in the exhaust. It may also cause a fuel leak which could come with you getting the smell of fuel.
I pulled the relay and turn on the car the car died I put the relay back and then took the ground off when I was disconnected the fuel line there was still so much pressure in there
That's weird. Was the key in the off position when you put back the relay? It shouldn't have much pressure if the car stalled from lack of fuel pressure.
It's going to be any one or a combination of the following: misfires, black smoke, sputtering backfires in the exhaust, difficulty starting, stalling etc. Will be good to check the fuel pressure. Depending on the location of the fuel pressure regulator (engine vs tank), you may have the smell of gasoline in the engine too.
@@DIYAutoworksNG It's in the tank, and no schreader valve to hook up a fuel pressure regulator. But thanks for the symptom which I have non, but my short-term fuel trim is always (-3 to -8) and long-term fuel trim (-6 to -8) constantly.
