This was a super handy video. Thanks for taking the time to film it. I appreciated the step by step instructions, and the torque specs. The bottom ball joint on my 07 Accord gave me a fit. I ended up using a floor jack (with a piece of 2”x2” wood) to push upward on two lug nuts while compressing the suspension. I used a sledge hammer to hit a piece of metal rod against the lower A-arm, and the ball joint finally broke loose.
Great video, got it done. I bought the whole knuckle assembly with wheel bearing already pressed in with bottom ball joint. I think it was easier and no hydraulic press to worry about. 3 nuts and axe nut and ABS and brake line bolts. Watching video helped greatly, Thank you!
Nice demo! It's taken me a few years to understand how these old style pressed-in wheel bearings go together. The reason the bearing consistently breaks apart in two pieces is because the snap ring prevents the outer race of the bearing from coming off when you press out the hub. The snap ring is shielded by the rim of the hub, so you can't remove it, or even see the snap ring until the hub is removed. So, after a few years the inner race ends up being seized on the shaft of the hub, and the weakest link ends up being the bearing cage. You did a great job getting the inner race off the hub with the Dremel. I've seen other guys use a torch to expand the inner race, causing it to fall off without using the dremel. One day I'll try that.
its not hard. juat have to take it slow and understand what each step is doing. and of course if you have the specialty tools make it a million times easier
thank you very much. wheel bearing kits are possible. i just done enough bearings to invest into a press lol. but yes yu can just rent the wheel bearing kit from your parts store. this way you save money
Where did you place your jack stands? Manual says to use the spot behind the front wheels (where the scissor jack would go) but my floor jack wont lift up the car high enough that I can put stands there at a good height. Thanks!
i put the stands on whereever there is the subframe mounted. this was my brothers car car so i dont remember exactly what it was placed on but i know minimum it was the subrame that attaches to the body of the car or the frame rail.
@@hyr0llr Hadn't thought of that! That's one issue solved, however there's one more issue. Because of the hub, I don't have a straight enough angle to hit those Phillips screws holding the shield on. They're also extremely rusty. Any recommendations with that?
if you could afford it then i would say yes. but it all depends on would you mind working a little more to save money or just the eaiest swap available
@@joey8340 if money is not a factor then yes for sure. If its only one specific. Then you can get away with juts front or backs. If really on a budget, then only the one making noise
harbor freight. they also have tool rentals at auto stores. its kit with a big bolt/nut and different size barrels that you can remove/install bearing that dont use a press like i am.
Its borderline a little more instrusive then most jobs. But also in this video i used a press, which not everyone has. They have a bearing puller/installer kit at the parts store to rent that the same job can be done. Im not sure why i used the press in the video. But it is possible with that other kit. Its essentially a big bolt/nut plate kit to remove and install a bearing.
www.harborfreight.com/front-wheel-drive-bearing-remover-and-installer-kit-21-piece-63728.html?campaignid=12144811130&adsetid=117789288158&product=63728&store=450&gclid=CjwKCAjwgZCoBhBnEiwAz35RwingP_bBfZZPcz15JNA32p9lX61J-7LJByKnqIsRry_YG32r4vfsuhoCEwQQAvD_BwE This is the kit to buy at harbor frieght, but like i said, you can possibly rent it from the parts store for free.
Everything looks relatively easy to me except when you get to replace the bearing. I, unfortunately, do not have the luxury of a hydraulic press. Therefore, what do you suggest as the next best option?
@@gerardomartinez9863 thank you. was working fine from the video publish date until the car got rear ended and totaled lol So 10/10 rating in that time period.
i forgot to say this in the video but you can rent a wheel bearing replacement kit from the parts store. a little harder to do but possible. give me one second to get you a picture for reference.
If your bearings get bad enough you'll find your wheel rolling past your car one day. me amd the guys always joke when someone wants to wait or they don't wanna pay for it that they better start wearing a helmet while driving. It's not always fatal but if your going highway speeds you might end up in a grave.. just a friendly warning if your accord is 150k miles or so on stock bearings change them asap!
@@floopynoops1336 I happen to know quite a bit about cars. I removed the wheel in question the previous owner said was the problem, in fact removed them all. No noise and no play so bearings are all fine, problem is with ABS sensor only. Car is inspected, brakes work really well. FYI, unlike say an old timing belt which can give way any second without warning, worn wheel bearings will grind and present play in the wheel, and I disagree, as long as there are no leaks are loss of grease wheel bearings can often go on for the life of the car.
@@robbflynn4325 They wear over time and should be treated like any other bearing. If you are replacing suspension components then you might as well get the bearing done too. You go over that 150,000 mile mark you're risking more damage to other suspension components. You're also risking your safety because that wheel can potentially come off lol.
@@trevorstewart4778 Bearings are housed in a sealed unit and only usually fail prematurely because the lubricating agent leaks out, for example, from a tear in a CV axle boot, and when they do fail it is obvious because it will be accompanied by a grinding, clunking or knocking sound from the area in question, which is the metal on metal sound. So what you are suggesting is all owners of cars with 150,000 miles or more should have all of the bearings in their vehicle replaced, even though there is no obvious noise just in case they fail? You talk absolute nonsense and obviously know nothing about maintaining or working on cars, or how they work.