These are the Replacement Parts I Recommend: A/C Accumulator Assembly: 2003-2005 amzn.to/3czLusF 2006-2011 amzn.to/3bjYsdR As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
This is the best car DIY video I have seen on RU-vid, and I have been looking at them for about 10 years. Good lighting, all steps in camera view, no shaky camera, no mumbling, no wisecracks. Just excellent instruction and information. Thank you. May you live long and prosper.
Brian i dont know if you will see this comment but you did the lashers on my 2005 f150 3 or 4 years ago.....truck is running great at 190k but i recently bout a 2009 grand marquis and its been the best car ive ever owned. Recently ive seen spots on my drive way and this green dye was leaking out of it. this video will let me be able to do this myself.....now you have helped me again but in a different way. Thanks brother!
Thanks for a great video! I just replaced the leaking accumulator in my 04 MGM and my air is ice cold again. The details provided in the video made this job much easier. Many thanks!
Great Video !!!It gave me the courage to change out my accumulator ... being just a back yard mechanic ...Especially liked the demo on the Ford style quick connect fittings ... and a few tips on what to watch out for ... In my case ... the accumulator was heavily rusted ... especially the top half and the entire top surface with rust flaking off at the tubes and sensor ... the UV light showing the top surface wet with fluid dribbling down inside to the bottom of the plastic enclosure ... but the leak appeared to be from the top fittings on the tank ... This was on the newer style 2008 Lincoln with the plastic enclosure for the accumulator tank ...
I’m currently replacing the same part. Those harbor freight AC setups come in super clutch. Thanks for the video. I remember when all we had were chilltons books. Guess I’m old now.
Yep, my condenser fan quit on my 95 grand marquis. I simply installed a 40amp fused toggle switch on the underside of my dash. Works great! These simpler cars are so easy and typically cheaper to work on.
thank you, thank you, thank you! you helped me immensely today and made my life a little more bearable! FWIW, I did it on an EXTREMELY tight budget of about $60, not including loaner tools.
Thanks this video helped me change my accumulator for the first time took my vehicle to get my system evacuated and recharged for about 120 or 150 at Firestone
Add me to the list of happy campers! Got the accumulator at NAPA for 40 bucks, and it included a full set of O-rings for the hoses and the pressure switch. I turned the wheels to almost full right lock which made it easier to get to the bolt on the bottom.
Can you please tell me where I might find the AC drain that normally drips under the car when the AC is on ? I have a 2007 Town Car, recently had the AC evaporator replaced and now the vents stink really bad when the AC is turned on and theres no drip under the car anymore.
Great video! Quick question the accumulator that came out of my 04 grand marquis is horizontal where the cycle switch goes and the new one I just bought is strait up and down. Do I need a new cycle switch and If so which one should I get.
From what I see from other techs is the plastic housing around the tank on the new one holds moisture also and rust out the tank on the accumulator. All old school ac systems just had the steel tank of the accumulator and never rusted out . I say pull the POS off there when you install the new tank otherwise count on it rusting out again
So it says on the label as 7oz being the correct oil amount, but you put 3oz into the accumulator. I am assuming this 7oz level is including oil in the compressor itself or is that self contained?
I have a newbie question that I can't find the answer to for my 2004 Grand Marquis. It's not exactly related but I couldn't find a video where radiator fan replacments were talked about. Are there superior aftermarket fans that come designed to either fit into the existing housing, or are supplied with housing that neatly installs in my MGM nicely? I'm curious about this because I live in AZ (which I love), where each summer is getting increasingly hotter. Days over 100F have tripled or more. A more powerful and efficient fan with about the same draw as OEM might help those scary days driving hard over 110F, and I'd be willing to improve things to keep that engine and me cooler. Cars here will last forever if you can keep them cool.
I know many years later people are coming on here trying to gather more info about changing the dryer/accumlator and the straight nipple on the old accumulator (like in the video) and switching to one with an elbow...there are some things left out that I will explain since my 2003 MGM has the straight nipple and I changed to an accumlator with a 90 degree elbow. The old switch will need to be replaced because it will not seat in tight enough. I am using Murray switch PN 20957 which comes with a new o ring in box. Also on the newer accumlator (which was NOT explained...) the mounting brackets are thicker than original so your stock bolts coming off the frame WILL NOT secure properly (too short). You need something like 3, M8-1.25x30 with enough length to make up for the thickness and secure to the frame of the car. I have Fleet Farm in the Midwest so its about 3 bucks for 2 packs of two. Also, plan to source new Motorcraft A/C spring clips to reconnect the high pressure hoses to the new accumulator (mine were junk after we pulled the hoses). That PN is YF991 Motorcraft. Oriley had some in stock and im waiting on them to come in so I can begin to finalize the repair and recharge the system. the 03/04 cars are weird because if you have a rotted dryer with the elbow and go to change it out with a straight nipple, now you will more than likely have to not only source a new switch for it, this way will also require you to buy a new connector with pigtail to change the connector style. I have read this part for this new switch is YH2012 and pigtail is WPT1436. I would try to avoid this route unless you truly know what you are doing or have access to a great mechanic (like I do).
I just watched another video about FORD "black death". I watched your other video on diagnosing a failed compressor. I can turn the clutch with my finger. Does that mean I have the black death teflon throughout the system? And I should probably replace the accumulator also? And where on an 05 Town Car would I find that inline filter? Video I watched was an F150. Hope you see this. Great videos! Thank you.
Seems like you sort of skipped over some parts, like how to do it without one of those fancy machines. Like his to excuate the system and pull a vacuum. I'm sure I can find that step somewhere else. I appreciate your videos and so does my p71
can a bad a/c cycle switch make your compressor lock up when you turn it on? doesnt sqeal any other time just when i turn on the ac. it just started doing it last wednesday. also i just bought a compressor i should probably ge the accumulator too right?
I like your channel, alot is helpful, but you skip the hardest part of this. Getting the low pressure side off, its a bear. It took an act of congress to get it off, now I cant get the side line on, yours snapped right on, mine not so much, I cleaned the ends, new grommets etc.,. Accumulator moves and you can not get nothing in there to snap it tight. I had to remove low pressure hose completely, reinstall it on the accumulator outside the car, reinstall and connect high side.
I was thinking the same thing. Especially up here in the northeast where you deal with salt. 99% of the time it’s a battle to get that hose off the bent tube on the accumulator. It’s almost never as easy as this video.
Hi I notice on my 2004 Town Car, there water around the top hose above the AC accumulator. It just water when I run the AC on cold. Is that first sign of the accumulator going bad?
@FordTechMakuloco my 94 grand marquis ac suddenly stopped working, but the compresser clutch is constantly engaged. Which steps should take first in the diagnosis process? Thank you very much...
I need help with a 2001 f150 dryer clip. Number one, almost impossible to get to. Number 2, its clean and oiled to get it to release. Number 3 can't wiggly it back and forth at all to help get it apart. Any more Ideas??? HELP!
This is the first video that I've seen that says that PAG oil needs to be put into the accumulator. Is 3 oz. universal ? I have an '02 Ford Taurus DOHC Duratec.
I have a 2002 Lincoln Town Car limo that the a/c lines get really frosty and the compressor doesn't kick out. (it's a new compressor) I put in a new cycle switch and that worked for a little while but now it's back to not kicking out the compressor when it starts to frost up. It is still blowing out cold air front and rear. What could my problem be? A short in the wire connector or a plugged drier?
So if i buy a new A/C cycling switch from Ford and still have the upward A/C accumulator, will the new switch from ford still work on the old A/C accumulator?
I have a 2008 cvpi. All the coolant from the radiator was in the ground and the ac stopped working. The only place i see a leak is at the bottom of the accumulator. Is that possible???
Thanks so much for this video. Would you happen to know the switch part number for an 03 Crown Vic? I looked and there are several OEM part numbers. My switch screws straight on not at the 90 degree angle. My A/C is intermittently blowing warm/cold air. Thanks
@FordTechMakuloco said something about cooling the cooling fan not coming on when requested by the AC. I am having this problem and whats the fix? 2004 Crown vic
So if the accumulator holds three ounces of oil, do we need to add another four ounces to the system, or is that other four ounces somewhere else in the system? Thanks
This reminds me I have to change the condenser on my Aerostar as it has an obstruction in the line m. As it's a singe tube multi row. The new one is not. So it should work better. As always I replace the accumulator anytime I open the system.
I remember from another video you said professionally recovering the AC refrigerant will also recover around an ounce of oil. If I were to have a recovery done on my system and an ounce or two of PAG oil is pulled out, should I add an ounce back along with the three ounces being poured into the accumulator, or should I only pour 3 ounces into the accumulator and not add any more than that to the system?
I had my local mechanic replace my accumulator on a 2011 Crown Victoria 41,000 miles. Every since he replaced it the air keeps losing gas. He used that green dye and can never find the leak. Its been back twice and he uses a special light to try to find the leak and can not. He said it may be the evaporator but looked at drain tube and no green dye. Does anyone have a suggestion? After watching this, i am wondering if it is that cycling switch O ring. But then again if it was he would see the green dye. Any advice would be appreciated
I know this was a long time ago. But I have a Grand Marquis with your AC leak now. Did you ever find out where the leak or problem was on your 2011 Crown Vic AC system? Do you still have the car?
Hello I realized that I have to put PAG oil into the accumulator and you put 3 ounces in it. I'm buying a compressor that already has the oil in it. It says online that the capacity for the system is 7.5 ounces so does that mean that the compressor has 4.5 ounces in it? I just don't want to overfill the system, thanks
Mine to on a 2003 Grand Marquis about one week ago. Have fun trying to find a new one with the Schrader valve facing upward and not sideways. I still working on mine , I had to remove the battery and hacksaw off the tube on my old accumulator. I just could not get that low side connection to release. If you notice he skipped that low side release in his video. Once I cut the tube and had it where I could get some leverage to pull it, it released. This way I still salvaged the old lines and can only replace the accumulator. You also going to need a Torx socket to get the bracket to place the new accumulator in the old holding bracket.
Question for the 08 grand marquis lovers. My AC went out; I changed the blend door actuator & main control module. When I change the settings you can hear a click.. but no AC, no heat or cool. Almost like the blower motor isn’t going on. Any ideas? Any fuses to check? Again.. lol. I am getting error code 25 in the dash.
So how do I know the accumulator is bad? My ac come out very slow on full blast. ITs full of coolant, I checked the pressure. Compressor seems to try to turn on, but it seems blocked.
Cooper Duke The accumulators leak from the underside as shown in the video otherwise they generally don't fail. What were your pressures and what is the compressor cycle times?
have a question my ac was charged and now the ac stop working check all sensors and fuses could it be my compressor how can i check let me know please its a 2004 town car
I have an 03 and was having the same issue. Last oil change I went in and they told me the bottom of the accumulator had a rust hole in it. Leaking all of my freeon out. Just had it replaced and problems fixed..
On the accumulator switch, does the accumulator need to be empty before you change the switch or could you potentially change it with a charged system?
FordTechMakuloco Thanks for the info. You were correct and it gave me the confidence to continue troubleshooting on my 2008 Crown Vic. As it turned out the relay in the fuse box under the hood on the passenger side was shot. Again, thanks for the advice.
Deng, I should've read this before I just posted the same question. Lol. Thanks for the info, literally about to change the switch out right now! It's the last thing I can try before I have to try either another known working PCM, or take it to Ford and plug it in to the master diagnostics machine. Just is case you were wondering... it's a 2009 CVPI, just got new A/C clutch (and electrical unit inside clutch), low pressure switch, system recharge/check (the A/C just happened to work while they were checking/charging it) with no leaks (I assume they checked), then I got it back and it was back to on/off clutch cycling (mainly just off unless it's really hot outside). Also replaced A/C clutch relay, checked fuse(s), and it still cycles clutch on and off randomly (but when it's on it's ICE-COLD). Sometimes just for a second or 2, sometimes for 10 seconds or more (up to 2-5 minutes at times). Coolant is topped off, all dash switches/knobs work fine. Car has no ambient temp sensor (so I don't need to check for that), and it has all manual controls inside. This is weird... other than this A/C issue, the car runs so strong and sounds like it's still new!! UPDATE: Alright, so it's NOT the A/C clutch cycle switch either (just put the brand new one on). Also I just noticed, the clutch didn't activate at all this time. But, it is night time (haven't tried A/C at night yet) and very cold outside. So, I'm thinking... maybe there's a pressure leak somewhere? Like, when it's hot out (which is everyday here), it's gives just enough pressure for the system to kick on (but then off again once it realizes it's not enough to continue)? I mean unless the shop I took it too didn't fill it up enough, or maybe they did but didn't check for leaks with (IR gun) after? I see no leaks anywhere though, and like I said A/C blows cold when it does come on. Does the compressor build pressure when the clutch is not activated? I ask because if so, maybe my compressor itself is dying/dead and can't build enough pressure (even though I assume it does nothing until the clutch activates it)? Idk. I feel as though I've tried everything. Next step is Ford dealership (unless I can find an '09 PCM to test real quick).
My situation is similar. I had a new compressor installed last year. Now I have to be at highway speed or greater for the air to be cool coming out the vents. What fixed yours?
@@aboomalacani2732 mayne i still need to get it looked at i think it may be a switch it doesn’t get as kold as it used to before it would be freezing cold even in summer heat now the air barely gets cool i got a new compressor and accumulator installed the same day 🤦♂️
Ford accumulators have been rusting out and leaking for decades. That's what happens when you make them out of steel. GM makes theirs out of aluminum. The aftermarket one I got to replace the one on my Ford is made of aluminum.
Where did you you get an aluminum one? I ordered one from Rock Auto that was advertised as aluminum, but it fails the magnet test. My original steel one is leaking and I don't want another steel one.
I'm about to change the exact same dryer from my Ford. I don't have a ac vacuum. can I just Change the dryer an add cans of freon to the system? I know there's no other leaks. but I don't have a vacuum to pump air out. I just don't know if that will work. plz lmk what u think. thxs
+FordTechMakuloco .I'm planning to take the car to shop to get the evacuate an freon done. but do I have to add that oil to the dryer when I install it or can the shop do that after its already been installed and ready to go and how important is that orifice tube? I have one, should I replace it or will it be OK without replacing?
wonnieboy its best to drill into the bottom of the accum and measure what drains out but what I find is in general 2-4 oz of pag oil is a good amount to refill with.
Unless you're 95 years old or older, go buy a vacuum pump! You will use it countless times in the future. Harbor Freight has 'em for $100 and with a 25% of coupon = $75.
hi there. I actually installed exact same dryer an I had shop evacuate an add freon to system. after 1 hour the straight up line on dryer with spring lock blew off. Idk what happen an why it failed. do u know why this connection would fail? it stinks cause I paid shop an now I gotta start over. but any help would be appreciated. on what to do to prevent this from happening again. thxs
I don't think it's correct to say the vacuum pump will boil off oil from the system, firstly those oils have too high a BP for that and also you don't want to remove that oil from there
