Ford Five Hundred A/C Compressor Replacement 

I tired putting in a new scroll valve, and also tried the trick of installing the valve/spring in reverse order - but still no cold air at idle. I am thinking I need a new compressor - but I am wondering what you meant when you said "system wasnt dirty". I saw a dry, powdery dark colored substance on the original scroll valve, and I saw a greyish, oily substance on the new scroll valve when I took it back out to revers install it. Would that indicate a "dirty system"? If so, what else should I do?

Do the ford 500 have alot of AC problems?....Mine is acting up

@@nathanielmorton659 not really

You seem awefully happy for someone that is about to have a very expensive repair.

FordTechMakuloco lol it will be around $500 and that is cool with me. I got a quote for $2,700... Yup.

Jeremy Carlson I got the compressor removed last night nice and easy thanks to this video. I found the studs take a 5mm socket so I didn't have to buy a stud removal set. Also, I was worried that I may not have the proper tool extensions to complete the removal as used in the video but I was able to get in there with my wrench easy enough.

Did you ever find a solution to your issue?

+shawn w great info that should help many. As for two studs the reason I call for the stud remover is in the salt belt of the USA here the studs corrode in enough that the tiny tip will just round over every time you try to remove them.

99o9

Correct you MUST evac system first.

I just reach down in there no need to pull vmv. If you need to pull vmv depress the tab you saw all the way and wiggle it off towards the firewall. You have to really man handle it.

+Csaba Kecskemeti Yes it is very tight.

I used tape and a cardboard box worked good for me I have accidents like that all the time

These have many problems with the ETC system more than anything else but while that is in being diagnosed misfires should be monitored along with mode 6 data for past misfires.

I would go new aftermarket

pull lines first then the bolts from down below, slide forward up and out.

Multi350z No I don't get into the aftermarket stuff sorry.

You must pull all the studs out too.

Thank you!

If you use a 5 mm the studs will come right out👍

Did you ever find a solution to your issue?

@@CreatingExcellence I took ot back to the shop and from what i remember they did some adjustments and cold air came out of other vents but it never went back to really cold air as you would expect after those new components.

Handyman Dan Yes it should, on these if the refrigerant is low it will cool more on one side than the other in dual climate systems.

+bigbob1122 You will need to use a stud remover to get them out and going back in also, this is the one that I use here- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K1KHB6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000K1KHB6&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=NEHFCQ4EU542DMOI

More of a "should" than a "have to" situation.

btw thanks for the video, very informative but didn't work for me lol

if it fails internally yes and the lines should be cleaned with solvent and compressed air but these fail externally most times with oil and refrigerant leaks.

FordTechMakuloco thanks. I believe I have an internal failure because there are no leaks, the a/c is charged, the clutch is operating but making noise, and the pressure readings are inconsistent and erratic. Blowing hot air too. I own a 2004 F150 super crew and now working on the 2006 Ford Five Hundred for the father in law. Your videos have been an unbelievable help to me. Keep up the awesome work.

DLD CONSTRUCTION FRAMING They are fairly simple if I ever run across them again I will do a video for sure.

Cant really flush newer condensers, if they get contaminated they have to be replaced. If you're just replacing the compressor, take a look at the oil inside of it when you pull it out. If it is clean/clear, then the system is most likely not contaminated. In this case you could get away just fine with replacing the compressor and dryer. If the compressor failed and the oil looks dirty/brown/black, then you'll need to replace the condenser, TXV, and hoses as well.

Thanks. I appreciate the info. It helps me greatly.

yes

You can flush the lines off car very easy, I would verify the compressor actually grenade.

Thanks for the response. Do you know of any videos that demonstrate how to properly flush the AC lines?

While they are off just spray brake clean through them and blow them dry they are large enough to be cleaned that way.

No there is no updates for fuel economy. Does it run good?

Brian Blake Expansion valves are not known to be an issue on these, I have never change one once on these, the receiver dryer change out is a thing of the past, Ford recommends to not replace unless the system has been at 0 psi for and extended period of time.

FordTechMakuloco well that certainly makes replacing my noise compressor and much less tedious and expensive job. Thanks for the info!!!

Yeah even with having them evac and recharge it will save you a bunch of money.

High pressure can be caused by a clogged condenser, fans not working, expansion valve, air in system, wrong charge level, or on this particular car the refrigerant control valve. Here is the video on it. Was the low side more like 70-80 psi instead of 25-35 psi? Quick Tips: #8 Ford Five Hundred Freestyle Poor A/C Performance Fix

FordTechMakuloco thank you very much i also isolated the clicking sound under my dash thanks to your other video involving the taurus. ive been sifting through videos on youtube for help on my particular vehicle and you seem to have every video so far that i need to make my car safe and at top performance!

Sweet good to hear!

If you have the expansion valve already I would change it yes. It is on the firewall in the engine compartment, nice and easy to get to. Take off the two lines going to it and then there is 2 T20 torx head screws that bolt it in the middle.

All that will come together when you buy it new off ebay... You don't have too.

The rattle you are talking about is either in the chain tensioners which are external and common enough or is coming from the timing cassettes themselves unless it is really bothering you I wouldn't worry about it they are a major pain to work on very hard to time etc...

not to over step ya dude, but kyle are you talking the over head valve or over head CAM? if it is 1998+ SOHC get tensioners replaced at the dealer, if the guide breaks have fun! i did my engine without any special tools but im a licence tech and had to remove the engine so i would do it with clear vision at the timing marks i made and the flat's on the rear of the drivers side cam to make sure it was level with the head when i torqued the bolt, that and the lovly torx 40 bolts for the rear guide that is behind the FUCKNG BELL HOUSING! anyways i can rant about that engine for a while... but man after new chains that engine works dam good nice and snappy!

its a 4.0L OHV, not the OHC. My brother is a HD mechanic and told me from the sound its the rockers/pushrods or the lifters, as ive read these are 95% the reason for the upper motor noise. but the only thing is id rather only have to oven the valve covers to swap the rocker arm assembly and rods then remove the heads as my truck has 197000kms id rather not take the chance of snapping bolts on the headers while removing them. when i start the truck it sounds quiet for 10-15 seconds aside from the fan, then the clicking just starts. same thing before and after and oil change so i know its not a low oil reason like most vehicles with the clicking. Appreciate the quick responses btw

id like it dealt with sooner not later in case you ask why my brother doesnt do anything about it lol always to busy

kyle sundberg Well either way you must open up the valve covers to inspect and replace them so at that mileage I would look for a new set of both. You can pull valve covers and look for slop with engine off, then pull the lifter and check for sponginess they should be rock hard. Pretty simple but no I cannot identify exactly what is common on the OHV as they were before my time, but like I said they are pretty simple as in any OHV.

No yours is different, first thing to check is the refrigerant charge level.

​@FordTechMakuloco how long does this job take?

Nope you must position the a/c compressor aside but you can leave the refrigerant hoses connected.

These are known for both concerns very common and the compressor leaks from the housing as shown in this video so yes the compressor replacement is the only option.

When I replace the compresser would it be wise to replace it with a motorcraft part or a different brand name seeing as so many problems with this compressser

They are almost all Ford cores so. I would go aftermarket just because the Ford one is like $895.

FordTechMakuloco I have a 2006 Ford Five Hundred Limited. Having a/c issues. blows cold driving, or rev the engine, blows warm @ idle. I checked the high side, (good pressure) low side shows over-charged even when you under charge it. If you rev the engine, low side drops from 75psi to about 35ish psi which is the proper amt of freon. Compresser, condenser, expanion valve, dryer, all replaced. I replaced both actuators as well. Vacumned out the system, down to 460microns and it held. Ive checked for any vacumn leaks or damper door issues, NONE. I've been reading, noticed on back of compresser, theres a metal plate, with 2 10mm bolts. That contains the scroll valve. That valve controls how much freon flows through & pressure as well. Is that the problem thats causing this? Also, when you buy a compresser, either reman or new, does it come with a new valve or do you have to use old valve from previous compresser? Im trying to replace but the bolts are super tight with very mininal space. Im trying to avold taking compresser out to do this simple job but no success yet. Any ideas?? Please help!!! My name is Christopher.

Christopher Michael Yes it is your valve follow the link for replacement watch carfully, I even give you a link for the part. EVAC SYSTEM FIRST!!

Msilverhammer I would inspect the compressor to see if it is actually acting up. What's more common is for the throttle body to fail on these causing this issue is your original?

FordTechMakuloco OK...I am going to head over to a place that has been around ro 15 years, and specializes in AC automotive.I have been there before, and they really seem to know what they are doing.Most people on Yelp give them 5 stars too.If it is the throttle body, then what would that fix entail?Remember, this is my third bad compressor!As I said, I was starting to hear a whine when accelerating, or whenever the ac was on.When I turned it off, it would be perfectly quiet.There is only hot air, and very little sound increase now, when switching on the ac.Thanks!

Buy it online... Ebay for 200... And labor $400

keyron Campbell Thanks...but I had it replaced for $375.00 total. Rebuilt compressor, and labor included, with one year warranty. This place has been working in this area for over 20 years, and they rebuild their own compressors. autoacservice.com/ Thanks

I have a 2005 ford freestyle with a CVT auto/transmission it completely died about a month ago it only has about140000miles on it the check engine light has been on since we brought it from car lot when it broke down a month ago it was slap out trans /fluid we acidently poured reg.red fluid in first but didn't drive but about 20miles then we drained it all out and put 10quarts vavolene CVT fluid in it and also done a oil change and filter our self but now my car will not even move in reverse at all and now when you first crank car it jumps forward while still in park and still will not go in reverse at all so we drained fluid again and this time there is some kind of pin that was in my transmission pan this little pin is about an1inch/1/half and a little bigger around than the size of a pencil lead what is that and why is it flowing around in my fluid the lady from service at the ford dealership when called said its OK that it is suppose to be there by the plug because that's how they service them at the shop and my wrench light is still on my tire traction control light is on and so is check engine light so my etc light was not on till about 7days ago it was just my Cheng.light and transmission light and check engine light has been on since we brought the car from lot and we just brought the car in march21st.this year when brought the car as is with no warranty it made a little bit of a noise when quit driving right the noise got louder and now there's no noise at all you barely hear car running you would think car stalled out and died it is so quite. What is wrong and can u show us a video how to fix it and is my CVT transmission screwed up and broke.or is there ways of fixing the problem quick and easy and very cheap I don't have $2700-$5000to replace my CVT transm.or a lot of money to put in shop or ford dealership I can't even get it to be tested because it will not drive and make it to part stores it only drives forward and only about a mile or two before it dies again and leaves you stuck and have to push it home in nuetral

You can just replace the a/c pulley and clutch but the compressor still must come out and then you should be ok as long as the compressor itself is not locked up.

I don't think they do on this one too old but the new ones we can watch pressures on the high side at least which is nice at times but I still prefer gauges.

I’ll fix it for you :D