In this video I will flush my 30k mile old clutch fluid. I'll show you how to do it without the need for a helper to pump the clutch pedal. Brake Bleed Pump: a.co/d/7N5O1lK
Sounds like you have air in the line or in the master cylinder. You'll have to continue to bleed it until the air is removed and the pressure returns. DO NOT let the reservoir go dry during the process.
I've done this exact process, but once I'm done the pedal is still spongy and I can't get it in gear. If I follow this with conventional bleeding, pump the pedal then hold it, crack the bleeder, close it, let the pedal up, I loose all pressure in the system. Any idea why?
@@JRsGarage that's what makes me angry. Nothing. Long story short I replaced the slave out of "preventative maintenance", but everything worked before so I even tried putting the old slave back on. I just now got it to "work". I put the new slave back on, but this time filled it with fluid before hand, tightened the banjo bolt before bolting the slave on, and without any bleeding, it works now. Wtf?
Actually that's a lie. I tried adjusting the pedal back to where it was before, and now there's no pressure again. Can't even get fluid to flow through the system.
Did you leave the cap off during the clutch bleed and can’t you use the brake bleeder to bleed the system without the bottle and hose? Just asking because I have the external z1 slave and just upgraded the master to the z1 Willwood due to lack of pedal pressure.
I left the reservoir cap off so I can continuously fill it with new fluid as it got low. You can use a bleeder that pulls vacuum on the bleed screw but I find those tend to draw air in through the threads of the bleed screw and don't work well.
Take the bleed screw all the way off. Fluid should come out. Be prepared because there will be no way to stop it. If it does start to flow let it all drain out and recycle it. Take the bleed screw to a parts store and get a new one. If it doesn't flow replace the slave and rubber line.
I'm guessing there is fluid? Try cracking the bleed screw and then press the clutch pedal. If fluid spurts out then either there is a blockage preventing the slave cylinder from moving or the slave cylinder is frozen. Replace the slave cylinder and the rubber line attached to it. They're pretty cheap.
Take off the rubber line at the slave cylinder. If fluid doesn't come out it's blocked, disconnect it at the upper end. Fluid will drain out. Replace the line and the slave.
I have a 86 Nissan hardbody truck. There are two bleeder points. One for the slave cylinder under the truck near the transmission and the other in the engine compartment. Wondering if I can just bleed it using only one or the other?
I would think you need to do both to do it properly, probably start with the top one bleed air out of that and then go to the bottom one to finish it off.
One qt is way more than enough. I think a 12oz bottle of DOT3 is the smallest you can buy and that is more than you will need. Since your not supposed to store brake fluid once opened you might as well use it all. Or also flush your brakes at the same time.
Right now I am having an issue I can’t figure out.. help? I bought a car with a new clutch. At the beginning. as I started letting out the petal from the floor, the clutch would grab hard. Didn’t have any issues other than a tick when I had the petal out and in N… When I’d press it in the noise went away.. the slave cylinder was bad so I replaced it and the master as well, bled them really well. And still had the tick and the petal would be slow to return all the way.. it would Pop back 60% of the way then slowly the rest of the way.. if you let your foot off the petal fast it basically comes up and then slaps the bottom of your foot.. now when I have clutch pressed in all the way I can’t get into 1st gear.. sometimes if i shift into 4th then try 1st it will work but it’s stiff.. once I get it into 1st gear I can come back to neutral and any other gear ( keep in mind car isn’t moving at all during all this. Just clutch in and manipulating the shifter.) but say i go back to neutral and let the clutch out all the way, then press it in again.. im back to square1 … can’t get into 1st gear.. stiff as a rock.. but I can sometimes get it into 4th and then 1st again after that.. any time I let the clutch out all the way in N I can’t get into 1st … side note when the cars not running I can go through all the gears .. clutch in and out doesn’t affect it.. only while running. Thanks for reading this ..
Did the slow return of the pedal happen only after the slave and master change? Because I don't believe that is related to the ticking issue. The ticking sounds like a bad release bearing. Are we talking about a G35?
@@JRsGarage the tick was just related to wrong adjustment on the clutch pedal. Went away when I made adjustments. I’ve been trying different methods of bleeding and am getting some results with being able to shift better.. still definitely have air in the system somehow.. took it to a dealership and told them I want it power bled and that I can’t get into gear because of air trapped somewhere.. the idiots did a regular bottle bleed then tried to blame it on my clutch return spring lmao… I’m going back soon to force them to do as I say and not try to bullshit me out of wasted time amd money.. I’ll get there one day soon
It'll end up being messy but you can try bleeding each system independently. Take off the rubber line and the slave cylinder and just let the master bleed out the hard line. As it's dripping connect the rubber line and then let that hang and drip and then connect the slave and let that hang and drip and then bolt the slave up and bleed it normally.
@@JRsGarage did that.. even depress the piston in the slave while cracking the bleeder got a lot more air out I’ve manipulated it upside down in other angles to try to let air escape I’m just gonna take it back to infinity and tell those idiots to do as they’re told not as they feel
Update… Infiniti wolnt answer my calls lol… Figures… changed my slave again.. thought it may somehow be not functioning properly… still can’t get all the air out … ( enough to get into 1st or R) I’ve now been told I need a new clutch… that it was installed wrong… but it was fine before I changed my master and slave… I feel like I’m dying on an island with vultures flying overhead..
I recently had the soft line split. I replaced the 92,000 mile factory slave cylinder and soft line. Bled the clutch and drove my Z. It went into gear just fine but the next day it had lost 20% of its pressure. Any idea why it keeps losing pressure? It doesn't have any visible leaks and no bubbles when rebleeding the clutch
It's just an estimated guess. Say the pedal has 10 inches of travel. When I depressed the clutch it returned 2 inches short. I'm guessing what I did wrong was install the hydraulic line incorrectly. The package included 2 brass washers and I put both of them on. One on either side of the line. One between the line and slave cylinder and one between the line and bolt head. I'm gonna remove the one between the cylinder and line. It's leaking fluid around that washer. So I'm just guessing the line and cylinder are supposed to mate up together instead of having a washer between them.
Yea, the washers are wrong, both of them go on the slave cylinder side. See this picture here: app.box.com/s/i1l5l00dybpzxgjsb5r1zso6xlee63tm Bolt, washer, soft line, washer, slave cylinder.
I pulled the one between the slave cylinder and line off yesterday. I'm gonna check the pedal today before I leave for work. I appreciate your input...thanks
@@JRsGarage That is not correct. The diagram you linked to even shows a copper washer going on both sides of the line; one against the slave and one between the bolt and the hose fitting end.
