I've been a mechanic for over40 years. I've worked on just about everything. With that being said I also used to work on fire truck for the air force. The alternators often put out over 300 amps. There have been a few times that I would have a voltage drop between the alternator case and the engine block that it was mounted to. It would loose some grounding Thu the bolts and brackets. I would connect a ground cable from the alternator case, engine block and body of the vehicle. This would give me maximum charging and prevent my gauges and lights from dimming and give bad readings. Hope this helps. By the way the battery in the Tahoe should be reading 12.6 volts not 12.2 as I saw on the post. You probably have a battery cell going bad or the battery needs a charge. Enjoyed your posts, reminded me of the good old days. I know what you mean about getting older. Hard to get anything done.
Is there a chance of creating a grounding loop by adding extra ground wires? I was about to do what this man did in the vid, but then I read about grounding loops. Any thought on that? Thank you.
Just wanted to say I ran the grounds just like you did and it’s running amazing. Replaced the throttle body, the throttle body sensor and the MAF sensor before doing the grounds and it works perfect
The code can be caused by a faulty throttle body, TPS sensor, as well as a few other sensors. The ground problem is easy to fix, I removed the engine ground and grounded the alternator body directly to the battery. I also am using a top post battery with military terminals!
Good to see you out and about there Bear! There are GM Bulletins on the Throttle Body issue. If this didn't fix it, at least you will know for sure that it is not a Ground problem. I would coat all the newly exposed surfaces and the wire terminals with either dielectric silicone grease or second choice, fluid film or Zep 2000 clear spray-on grease. Anything to slow corrosion from re-occurring. Now go inside and treat yourself to some hot coco! Hopefully you will be warmed back up enough to do the live show later on. I hope SC is feeling better too. Take care Bear and God Bless you my friend.
I'm having a similar issue....I damn near changed everything on the truck...might ride perfect then get hit with stabitrack/reduce engine power...shit truck off 5minutes back to normal....does this a lot ...I ran a new ground from engine to alternator, ran good for 20 miles then it's back..🤷🏾♂️ I don't know what to do any suggestions? The truck is a 2009 Tahoe 5.3 Ls
we finally ended up replacing the throttle body. its been running great now just did it 2 weeks ago. she also said since i replaced it she says its shifting better now to. hopefully it helps.
Cool channel…….subbed👍🏼 Looks like you put a high volume oil pump in by the pressure. Had a Melling put in mine last year and have almost 80 psi with fresh oil on throttle.
Dirty oil will throw it into limp mode also . I only mentioned it cuz i been there and done that also you dash says to Change oil . Remember to reset the engine oil life on the computer
Its possible for the connector at the throttle body to be an issue. If you have a live data stream from the two throttle voltages, wiggling the connector can sometimes cause that voltage to change, which isnt good
Hey man where did you mount the ground wire to on the computer exactly? AKA the other side of the ground wire you mounted that’s near the engine block (near the alternator). Please I need help!
Great video. Couple questions. 1. How did you modify that battery cable? Did you cut that rubber out with a knife? 2. Did you clean your grounds with a wire wheel attached to a drill or something?
Could a low batter cause this becasue I've added the grounds amd mine continues to do this. My fuel pump died on me and after replacing fuel pump,filter and throttle body I've had nothing but issues t keeps throwing the tac module code. Which think is p1516 code I can clear and it'll run fine until I have to slow down r stop to idle
Hello I'm having a problem with the knock sensor in my 2003 GMC Yukon XL 2500. I've changed the original sensor, wire and refrigerator face three times, yet the Check Engine Light is still on. The codes that appear on the scanner are P0300, P0332, and P0327. I also changed the spark plugs with the wire, and used #41-110 spark plugs as recommended by the parts store, even though the recommended spark plug number for my car is 41-962 according to the chassis number. I would like to know if the problem may be caused by using #41-110 spark plugs instead of 41-962. Please let me know as soon as possible. Thanks
Sweet! Did it yesterday along with the under driver's side ground. Pretty sure my throttlebody is burned out tho. Not throwing code but throttle has dead spots
You dont show when you connect the grounds to the bracket on the altenator, and you just point to the computer , dont show how and exact bolt u un screw to connect to the tcm, kinda fishy
