You won't see mention of it that often but there is a couple ground wires that is key to the throttle-by-wire working and they throttled by cable. On the driver side between the driver fender and driver side door underneath the vehicle there are a couple ground wires. If corroded they can cause the throttle by wire not to work, they can cause missing etc
Looks like a good repair, do you know if that ground on the back of the block on the pass side is where the 02 sensors ground ? What kind of codes, if any, were stored in your pcm ?
90 degrees is a perfect day to work on your car here in phx az usually it’s a nice toast 115 on a good day but on a hot day easy 120 I hate climbing up on my 05 2500
I am getting a little too old to battle these old cars anymore. I have two 2003 tahoes and two 2001 BMW. It is a battle to keep them running. Especially the BMW's Now my tahoe with the 200k miles on it has a slow coolant leak. Too slow to tell where it is leaking. Going to put the pressure tester to it and see what happens. Hopefully it isn't a head gasket. I think I am going to sell the two BMW's and the older tahoe. I will have the the white tahoe and a new car. Not sure what yet.
@@2009adtommy Not sure at this point what you found out about coolant loss. Look at front, passenger side of head. If you see 706 or 862 cast in head they are prone to developing a crack. My 2004, Z71 Burb shows 706 but at 198K no problem yet. Great vid.
Good video Sir , what size was that screw you used on engine block . I did the negative battery cable ground you did..but to the alternator bracket.. will be doing the other in a couple days.. Thanks
M10-1.5 x 12mm I purchased a dozen from Ebay but it is no longer available. Run a search and you will find it. I have two 2003 tahoes. All these fixes solved the problems. No issues for months now and we put some serious miles on these cars. Hope it works for you too.
Tom Erbil Hi Tom just wanted to know if you had any reduced engine power after installing both Ground wires? I recently did the the first ground but I am still having issues, dam thing came on 5 times on my way home today.
I am not sure about the fuel pump. But it can be responsible for a variety of ailments. Here is another video... That mentioned it... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-K3XOqeH2HCA.html
Actually that wire comes undone and you become ungrounded you're dead in the water it's going to die no injectors no fuel pump all kinds of issues with that ground and there's two of them there's one on each side of the block in the back you did one on the other side of the engine there's another one
I think what he is thinking is connect everything directly to the battery. Both wires in the back. The passenger side as you mentioned is critical. I have that one spliced and connected back to the ground at the firewall. And the firewall is grounded direclty to the battery and the engine. Over kill likley but if it breaks off at the back of the engine like many have experienced, I am still grounded. Drivers side is odd to me but was the one that was very corroded at the firewall. It appears this wire simply grounds to the engine block (negative). So essentially I have a redundant ground to the engine block plus I took another wire from the firewall and grounded it to the battery as well. Little to no chance of losing a ground. Overkill but man this thing is sensitive. My battery negative terminal on one of my 03's came slightly lose and "reduced... " came on. Thankfully it was the battery terminal.
What was the point in the first wire you made to the coded fire wall bolt? It’s. that bolt the ground spot. Then you can the wire to the engine by the alternator ? I don’t get what you were grounding
So from the firewall to the back of the engine is a ground. you can see it. it is a flat braid grounding wire. I personally couldnt reach the back of the engine to remove it and clean it like I did on the passenger side. So rather than doing that i ran another ground to the side of the engine. Probably overkill but I was so tired of this issue that I just did whatever it took. I haven't had an issue in years. One thing to note on a different subject, if you replace the connector at the throttle body, solder the wires together. the service update states this and I didnt listen. Trust me, solder them together or you will open up another can of worms. this is how I did it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-K2NioAPra7s.html
@@2009adtommy ya I get it now What size bolt did you use. The hole is empty on my truck That mesh strap is broken in half but my truck still runs fine. The dash lights up and has round idle at warm up. And the engine light is on maybe this will fix the problem Does it need to be 4 gauge wire ???
@@chachifeere M10-1.5 x 12mm Dont know what gauge but it is a negative battery cable so it is large diameter cable. I want to say it is a 6 AWG. A little easier to work with. And I think it was 40" I mentioned it on the video.
@@2009adtommy thanks man. The strapping at the back of the engine was broken off near the top. But my engine and truck are running fine and no crazy dash light.
My 07 chevy New body has been doing this on and off for 5 years only when i come up to a Red light or let it Idle for a few minutes Runs good going the speed limit Replaced my Throttle body it was dirty ran good for 2 years then again Reduced engine power replaced it again Factory parts only ran good for 2 years did it again code read Crankshaft position sensor above the Starter so i changed that as well ran good for 2 months now it's doing it again on and off Auto zone says it's my ECM $385 i know when it says reduced engine power many lights come on Traction control mainly and if your lucky enough for it to start within a few minutes it will snap your head back when it shifts out of low into second,I would Appreciate any thoughts on this problem,Thanks.
you ever figured this out? i swapped my ecm thinking that’s what it was broke down before but it was a broke wire and now that it runs it does this. under full throttle it’ll bog and thsn finally say reduced engine power but under slight acceleration it does fine. it blows my mind literally happened on the way home from gettin the wire fixed.
@@nate.hanlon Yes i did it was the Ground on the drivers side back against the Firewall its just a short ground wire i could not get it broke loose so i just ran another heavy duty Red wire from the Alternator bracket back into the firewall,But your problem sounds like you have Carbon build up on your throttle body Butterfly or maybe a weak fuel pump i know one thing buying parts for these pickups sure isn't cheap good luck.
@@missourimule2827 i’m afraid ima have to check all the wires again from checking them from before to find the broken wire. so there’s that ground wire and another one correct ?
@@missourimule2827 and i’ve already cleaned the throttle body and the fuel pump seems to be good makes the noise everytime i crank it lmao. maybe could be from where we tried to crank it a few times and it wouldn’t start maybe it wore the pump out but i doubt it.
These are the grounds that GM designed for the truck. They get corroded and in some cases like the one behind the engine, passenger side, you will often see that ground wire is actually snapped off. I am simply either cleaning the contact points or adding an extra ground for good measure. I have grounding issue with every vehicle I own including and especially my outboard. Before replacing parts, always make sure you are grounded properly at the known problem areas. Voltage irregularities trigger the "reduced engine power" craziness. So bottom line is get all the grounding issues taken care of, replace the wiring to the throttle body ( see link below ), replace the throttle body ( see link below ) ( don't just replace the position sensor as some have - it doesn't always work ), and replace the gas pedal position sensor as well. This should solve your problem. If not you can try one by one until your problem is finally solved. www.amazon.com/Throttle-Body-Connector-Pigtail-Vortec/dp/B07JQ3WBVG/ref=asc_df_B07JQ3WBVG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385182458311&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17128235231051466884&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031999&hvtargid=pla-824619367090&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=76842158525&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385182458311&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17128235231051466884&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031999&hvtargid=pla-824619367090 www.amazon.com/Dorman-699-102-Accelerator-Position-Sensor/dp/B000TYQAFQ/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=gm+gas+pedal+position+sensor+tahoe&pd_rd_r=5cb4050c-e58e-4a9f-9972-9de416e6cd40&pd_rd_w=B6v5u&pd_rd_wg=FGmBj&pf_rd_p=8a68efb9-a680-488c-88fe-8333519f00b7&pf_rd_r=1YFVWF3KX939C28T83WR&qid=1618414986&s=automotive&sr=1-3&vehicle=2003-47-499-434--9-6-8-7910-442-4-2-145-104-&vehicleName=2003+Chevrolet+Tahoe www.amazon.com/ACDelco-12679525-Original-Equipment-Injection/dp/B071L9KH14/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=throttle+body+tahoe&pd_rd_r=503f112c-8066-49f7-b274-f528554ba0c3&pd_rd_w=WN0Oc&pd_rd_wg=qkNPH&pf_rd_p=8a68efb9-a680-488c-88fe-8333519f00b7&pf_rd_r=834AEWA916ZDNDP6KERG&qid=1618415029&s=automotive&sr=1-4&vehicle=2003-47-499-434--9-6-8-7910-442-4-2-145-104-&vehicleName=2003+Chevrolet+Tahoe
Louie, I am not sure what you are asking me but I have not had a problem since i have done this. One thing I also did just to be sure is to take another wire from the firewall and connect it directly to the negative terminal on the battery. Probably overkill but both of my 2003 Tahoes have been flawless. It has been a relief, in fact I have forgotten all about it and only your message today reminded me how much of a headache that period of time was. Let me know what your codes and symptoms are. If you have replaced the throttle body pigtail wiring by soldering, installed new throttle body, installed the new sensor at the gas pedal, and handled all the grounding issues I discussed here, then you should be in a good place. Let me know.
@@louiegary assuming you have the same set up that is the generic code for the throttle position sensor but it could be the sensor at the foot pedal also. It can also be the pigtail connector. Knowing what I went through, I would just do it all including the grounding issues. The foot pedal sensor is cheap. The pigtail is cheap too. Unless you have something really odd. There are basically those 4 issues, grounding, pigtail, and the two sensors at the throttle and the has pedal. Also just for good measure, I assume you disconnected the battery after you changed out the throttle body and cleared the codes
I know what you are saying but these grounds I made are now easy to get to and when corroded, I can easily remove and clean. Don't know why GM decided to hide the grounds in the back of the engine where one of them is nearly impossible to reach. Very strange to me. In any case I wouldn't discourage this repair as these corrections have solved both my 2003 Tahoe issues. I have an outboard with a similar grounding problem and it is a 1 hour job minimum to remove connections (and a plate) to clean at the connectors and the block. So I did the same. I brought the ground to a very accessible location for the next inevitable time that I will have to clean it again. I have noticed on all my vehicles, a lot of the problems are connection issues and mostly the grounds getting corroded. So if you want to do it as from factory feel free. But I believe this not only a design error as one of them often breaks in the back of the engine but for the purpose of anesthetics/or GM ease, GM foolishly hid these connections in very difficult to reach places.
