It's a terrible design to put the ECU right under the AC ducts. I was cleaning my AC evaporator coil with a can of foam using a straw through the center ducts. Long story short the fluid went into the ECU and the car was acting crazy. Your video was helpful in removing the ECU. I cleaned the ECU with alcohol and a toothbrush and it's working good now. Just gotta put the special waterproof coating on the ECU motherboard to prevent corrosion. It's called acrylic conformal coating.
@@ChavezDIY Yea. There are a lot of bad designs on that car ... I hate to love it ... But parts cleaner nor alcohol never crossed my mind; good stuff 🫵🏾
KFlash has a great tune for 04 gen I'll be doing mine soon. They cracked the ecu so you don't need immobilizer anymore CL9/CM2 2004 Acura TSX K24A2 manual K&N drop in filter in stock airbox WeaponR race header Skunk2 mega power catback Fidanza flywheel Exedy stage 2 clutch KFlash Full fuel, VTC and ignition tables to suit supporting mods 94 octane Rev limit raised to 7700RPM. Vtec crossover lowered to 4000RPM on WOT. 1:1 Fly-By-Wire throttle mapping after 30%. Speed limiter removed. Idle raised to 720RPM. Disable post-cat lambda sensor. Launch control 3500RPM. Pop and Crackle V2 over 3000RPM. Immobilizer disable. Pops on launch control.
If you’re going to do the lower control arms later, START SOAKING THE BOLTS IN PENETRATING FLUID REGULARLY NOW. I have an 07 TSX and live in NC so it’s had a similar life probably and the back-middle bolt for the lower control arm on both sides of the car were so stuck in there that I ended up having to cut it out, BUT since the TSX has welded nuts (unlike the TLs) I then had to find some way to get the bolt threads out of the welded nut (and no, an extractor set isn’t going to help you because of the tight space). It was a nightmare and I lost a whole month just fighting with those 2 bolts. I really think starting penetrating fluid while you’re still driving the car and it can work itself in better will help. Don’t be like me!
Did you ever fix this issue? I’m having the same code p0705, p0706 and p0700. The D is flashing. I put a new range sensor and also change the shifter but no fix. my last option is to change the ECU but I would like to know if you have found a fix for this problem
actually ... have you tried going through the small cubby hole in the middle console? it pulls out with a little bit of pressure; the storage area in the middle right below the radio
@Do it Yourself D (D.I.Y.D.) Sorry didn't see your comment. Ended up ordering a ratchet wrench and it came right out. There was zero corrosion inside the ECU so I just cleaned the connector and put it all back together.
Wassup g great video raw and educational. I’ve came across your clips Unfortunately I’m going through the same problem with you with p0705 flashing d cel on. I did the same changed out pressure sensors same like you with no success. I changed out transmission range sensor aka neutral safety switch with OEM still no success. I’ve came to last trouble shooting part that I’ve read up on, which is the ecu. I’m thinking for me it might be a bad ecu. I haven’t pulled it out yet. When I do have time I’ll check into like you did. When you have time can you list down what you have done. So I can reference from what I’ve done or missed and I’ll do the same. Last of all have you find the problem? Lols I’m frustrated looking at vehicle, and I need to get car to pass smog 😭😭😭😭
Welcome and thank you. All you see on my channel is all that I've done ... Nothing more or less. These problems may be linked to something else entirely ... It's mind blowing 🤷🏾♂️ ... But keep us posted on your journey 👍🏾👏🏾👌🏾💪🏾
@@DIYD I have a 2006 Honda Accord, which appears to be the same car as your Acura TSX. I have the clear corrosion damage on my ECU, I could see the clear corrosion damage on the outside of the box without even opening it, yours look like undamaged to me. I have had no luck in getting the Europoen Honda dealers fix this issue for free, eventhough the car is the same and the problem is the same, they told me it's a US only recall so they want me to pay abou 800 euros to get it fixed..
@@cyberfunk3793 look at the series in my channel entitled Junkyard Days ... ECUs are just sitting all around. You can get one for around 60 U.S. and have them flash it to your car. 814 U.S. is a little high. The way things are going over here right now it may be double that ...
@@DIYD I live in Europe, the exact ECU is available occasionally in junk yards here too and they cost something like 150 - 300 euros here. 800 was for a new one with the work to program the keys etc.
1:32, bro I was struggling on my accord for 4 minutes with my fingers pulling in different directions, wondering why they made they sh childproof and you just finger it out in a millisecond. I'm gonna be replacing my ecm tomorrow. Shorted my ecm's O2 sensor ground after someone stole my cat and cut the wires for the downstream sensor as well and left them dangling. This gives me faith I won't do too bad LOL. My hamstring cramped mid way and then I figured it was far too dark and I don't wanna leave it half way. The location for it is so tedious, gotta be like 4'11 and skinny to do this comfortable.
@@DIYD lol I'm currently doing it as well....right now I've been having trouble with tsx acting really wierd giving me random engine codes..replaced all the sensors..I have replaced engine with a k24a instead of the k24a2 an trans from a accord it's been a headache
