I did not have to take off the power steering bracket or the rear engine mount between the CV axle and the steering arm. Instead, take the 19mm nut off the top of the rear control arm bushing and jam it against the top 19mm nut and use that to extract the top stud from the engine mount behind the tire. You won't need to raise the engine that extra inch. Thanks for the video, it was very helpful!
@@SuperMan-uj7dh the concept of a "jam nut" is a nut that is tightened against another nut on the same bolt or threaded rod. The jam nut is supposed to ensure the primary nut does not come loose. If you tighten two nuts against each other on a thread rod, you will be able to turn the threaded rod just like you would a bolt that had a hex head on it. So if you jam (tighten) two nuts against each other on a stud, you can extract it the same way you would take out a regular bolt by turning the bottom nut, not the jam nut. The jam nut will need to be very tight or they will both spin on the stud.
Great video, best of the 3 I watched. I did not have to remove the power steering bracket. Jacked the engine up, so just free of the top mount bolt, then lifted the mount up, spun it 180, and dropped it down and out. This required loosening the steel (pwr steer?) line that runs behind the engine mount. A trick that helped to align the new control arm ball joint with the bottom of the wheel was removing/loosening one of the bolts that connects the wheel to the shock absorber. That let the wheel tilt and therefore slip the ball joint into place without removing it from the control arm. I also didn't remove the steering rod ball joint and it was alright. Thank you for making this vid!
