Hey, TM - many thanks for posting this video. I bought a replacement control valve two years ago but was dreading the hassle of installing it and so I never did. And had to put up without AC since. Your approach made all the difference. I got mine swapped out in under 30 min - or less. Hardly any coolant loss at all. Just as easy as shown in your video. (note, if this is a duplicate, first one did not appear despite refreshing several times....)
Right on man! Thanks for the comment! I know all the other videos out there make it a nightmare about removing half your car from the bottom and then loosing or draining all your coolant in the process, so I'm happy you found my video!
@@TheDradge this one was just blowing hot all the time. Same as yours. And if this valve doesn't make the difference then the actual digital head unit has to be changed.
@@sivulca will be your valve that's what this one was doing but like I put in the other comment if it doesn't do it the digital head unit is next...that's easier to change but costs a little more and you can get a certified used one off ebay if needed
Hey Dradge, can you let me know how it ended up working out for you? Did the control valve do the trick and were you able to replace it the way he did without much fluid loss? Thanks!
I am a certified technician and when I have parts like this that have a probability of corrosion I use a simple trick-IGNITION & BATTERY TERMINAL SEALER-, You can find it at any automotive store. I recommend doing this before taking part out of car to allow dry time. Step 1: cap off any open ports and connectors. Step 2: coat the metal parts in a modest layer and let dry minimum 5 minutes stuff dries faster but just to be sure. Step 3: coat in another modest layer and let sit another 5 minutes or so. Step 4: check to make sure it did not get into any ports or connectors if so clean them. There you go simple and easy, just clean the part and reapply sealer every oil change.
There is a reason people drain the coolant when they are doing this. It's a good time to clear your likes and top it up with some new coolant, it's good for your vechile.
Sure it's always an option... but if you don't want to or can't at the moment then here you go. Made the video to accomplish the task at hand. Not for draining the coolant. But thanks
I have a 2004 Jaguar S-Type, I replaced the heater control valve ( Like you show and it made it really easy ) because the AC is blowing cold on the driver's side and Heat on Passenger side. But after i changed it it's still blowing Cold AC on the driver's side and Hot on the passenger side. Do I need to disconnect the battery to let the heater control valve reset ??? Any Ideas what my problem might be ?? Thanks
i have the same exact issue on my 2008 3.0 v6 S-Type...I already replaced the DCCV...my mechanic thinks it's the "blend door actuator" located around the glovebox.
I have a similar issue, except all vents are blowing red-hot, even when the temperatures on Low, would that more likely be the climate control module or would you say it’s more likely to be the DCCV?
@@dfweurocars hi there. I didn’t update my comment. It was the AC /Heater control panel. I changed it out for £20 (bought one on eBay) and it’s been perfect ever since.
thanks for the update! does your car have the touchscreen or just the older AC control panel? mine is 2008 w/ touchscreen and the touchscreen is working fine so i doubt it's the control paneel on my setup...I already replaced the dccv and today I removed the glove box on passenger sside to access the bend door actuator...its stuck in the OPEN position! is this my culprit? @@sablett
@@dfweurocars it’s not the touch screen version and I have no idea if the stuck actuator is your culprit. I did my DCCV too, so if it’s not what you think it is, it has to be the control panel I would think?! Good luck. Let me know how you get on! 👍👍
thanks for the quick reply! well, the touch screen/ac controls are all working, the vents move when i press the buttons etc...but the blend door actuator on the passengers side where im having the issue is indeed stuck open, so I think that's the culprit, my mechanic thought it was all along...@@sablett
@@thomasmorning7274 I'm not sure what he or she is saying either, but if I were to translate I would guess maybe they are saying something like "When I run the air conditioner in my S-Type, the air blows hot on the driver's side. For now, I just don't use the AC and drive the car it as is (with no A/C)." The that may not be a correct translation, but it was fun trying :-) And BTW, I may try this with my Jag (these 2005) as it's just only blowing (very) hot when I try running the AC. And it's an intermittent problem; sometimes when I get in the car the AC is perfect but once I stop the engine and get back in the car and restart, blows hot again. I'm leaning toward believing it's the control valve and not the head unit but I learned from your video (and a couple others) how if CCV does not fix it, to replace the head unit as well (and I appreciate your other video describing so well how to do that:-)