Charles, This is the first RU-vid video to which I recall I've ever given comment; I am commenting because of the excellent quality and thorough nature of your work. Your detailed description and precautionary considerations each step of the way are spot on. I'm a former Navy aviation mechanic and I truly appreciate the time you took in describing this job. What I learned from this video is that I don't have the equipment or the location to do this job properly myself. I also learned that, due to the complexity and nuance of detail (parts removal and re-installation, alignment details, tensioner condition, patterns and torque settings, RTV (or similar) in certain locations on the cover -and much, much more), that there's just no way I'd trust this job to a mechanic I don't know well; I would not expect to get the car back in satisfactory condition and it occurs to me that it would be the beginning of the end for my car which I bought new and have enjoyed these past years. You were dedicated to this job and you conducted it in a very patient and professional manner. I don't presently have a mechanic I trust to engage this job in the manner it requires. FYI: Mazda wants ~$2800. for this repair and Pep Boys wants ~$1300.00. Ergo, I'm going to sell the car inexpensively and with advice and information, one piece of which will be your three-part series. Thank you for this series, it helped me orient myself to what my next project is, selling this (actually wonderful) car to an enthusiast and ensuring he/she is prepared for the requirements of repair, then finding another used vehicle for purchase. Thanks again. Great job! Edward
I hear you... this job is not a particularly easy job... it takes 8-10 hours and there are many things which need to be done for it to work correctly. If you have doubts about doing the job... you probably don't want to do this particular one... I think from your comments you're making the right choice to sell it and move on. Thanks
Thank you for posting this video it really helped me out had to replace head gaskets and various other seals on my 05 . I got it for $750 nice weekend project can’t wait to get it going timing was confusing thanks again !
Hey just wanted to say thanks again for sharing the video series on the Mazda 6 3.0 timing chain replacement. I replaced both of mine and now she runs like a champ again!
Thank you for sharing, puts things into perspective when people wonder why their car will be at the shop so long...think about what the mechanic goes through! Major respect for your work and theirs...but no thanks to whoever decided to put transverse V6 engines in front wheel drive cars.
Oh man you wouldn’t believe it. I had my same car at 3 shops with no help, with the e sack same problem. Bouncing tac, traction control light and a slight bounce when driving. Your video so far has brought hope to my day. Thanx bro Did this fix the problem to this day?
Did you change out the variable valve timing solenoids. The guy that wants to do my Mazda is questioning that maybe it’s just that. I was willing to buy the whole chain kit and get it fixed. What’s your thoughts on that. Thanx
@@nichecreator1464 Changing out the solenoids is much easier and cheaper. I didn't swap mine out. Tested them, and they tested okay. It's the labor that's going to be the expensive part on the timing chains.
Ok than you so much man honestly I felt like my car would be junked. And I just bought it only had 120,000 km on it. So thank you for taking the time to make the video I appreciate it and getting back to me.
Well it’s a sad day I went and changed out the timing chains and the car still jumping and all my tack and my traction control lights are on still . Probably should’ve started out with changing the cam sensors. I was hopeful because your problems were the exact same as mine. Nonetheless I sure learned a lot.
Great video man. Now I see, that I will skip all this and pay some guy to fix mine. I don't have the time that and I am sure some of my tools have walked off. I work on 15 ton to 100 ton presses. Most from the 1940s to the 1980s. So I know how to turn a wrench. I just don't want to spend all my time off from work turning a wrench. But I should just get a better car this one ran good for a year and now it's been nickel and diming me to death.
Outstanding video Charles! Very thorough and thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. The engine cover gasket (a.k.a. timing chain cover gasket) is leaking on my 2004 Mazda 6 3L. The rate is about 1 quart per 500 miles. It looks like I'm going to have to do most of the same removal and replacement work that is done to replace the timing chain. With 190k miles, does it make sense to replace the timing chain (even with no codes at this point)?
Is there a way to just hold all the gears in their place so that they don’t move at all, then simply take the tensioner and chain off? I think the most tricky part is to get the gears in the right position, in sync. Well, the last time the car was running the gears were synced. So if they never move from their position, they should stay in sync- only come out the other end with a brand new chain. Is that possible?
My valve cover gaskets are new. But my timing cover is leaking oil. Is it possible to remove the timing cover without removing the valve covers? Reason being is I want to avoid all the extra work
Thanks for you answer Now I need to know if you used special tool for supporting engine before remove steering pump, because it's necessary to remove both engine mount bracket and rear support insulator, or how did you support engine before remove steering pump?
You still around Charles? Got a question. When doing the rotations the rear bank always lines up perfectly but the marks on the cam sprockets of the front bank never do. They seem off about a 1/4 turn. That’s the side where the tensioner failed. Do I have to turn the camshafts to line them up separately form the crankshaft after the chains are removed? Can I even do that? Does this mean the vvt has failed? Every job I see on these is done while the marks all line up properly. Mine don’t.
I'd have to look to see if I can find the information on setting the initial position for the cams/crank correlation. This engine is not a particularly easy one to time. I'll see if I can find some info on it... it's been a while.
@@CharlesAndCars Could I just line up the cam markers in the nuetral positions with the chains, then remove them, find TDC, rotate 2 turns clockwise back to 11 o'clock and re install the chains? Or is that too good to be true? haha
Excellent job brother 👍, god bless you ! Awesome vid Charles, do you remember if your oil pressure warn light flickered @low rpm along w/the probs u were having ? I got a 05' 6s (115k miles) from a fam member thinking just pre-cat prob w/misfires jumping around I've since replaced all 4 cats, 6 plugs n coils n pcv , ran motor now it ticks @idle - 1500rpm w/oil warning flicker , but roughly @2k rpm the (tick silences) n runs normal mind boggling ! (I'm guessing 1or both of my chain tensioners are shot) did you come to a conclusion your tensioner was your issue (like your left bank stuck) if you had to guess ?and are you in N.J (sorry about the lengthy read)
I am in NJ. I did not have the issue with low oil pressure... Low oil pressure will cause problems with VVT as that pressure is used in order to activate the VVT. The ticking noise could be many things, but I'm seeing it's common with this particular motor. If you're having low oil pressure, I'm guessing you're hearing the valve train due to that low oil pressure. For my car it was not a tensioner issue... the chains were just stretched/worn out.
I only have one question... How did you remove the timing cover?? Or after removing everthing off the cover and unbolting it how did you get it out... Did you pull it from the top or bottom??
I have an 05. 235k. Runs like a dream. Have had to replace a few minor things. I have to replace my driver side high beam and ill be replacing the passenger side as well as it is starting to dim. How would i go about it?
Hey. Your vids have been very helpful to me during engine pull/rebuild of my mazda 6. One thing i want to ask you though is....how did you make determination that your timing chains had stretched, and needed replacement? In video, your crank and camshaft timing marks all appear to be aligned correctly before you remove chains? or did i miss something? if timing was off, isn't it the camshaft(s) that would need to be realigned? just put in new chain wont correct timing that is out of whack. Thanks again for the great videos.
When the chains stretch they don't stretch to the point where the teeth would be misaligned. You would get that condition if the timing chain jumped a tooth, the stretch is usually small, but affects the running/performance of the engine... in my case I could see once I got the timing cover off that the tensioners were really exended taking up the slack for the stretch, but it gets to the point where they can't compensate...
It's not an exact science to determine when they are stretched, but the way in which mine was behaving as well as the fact that both cam sensors were throwing codes (but the sensors were ok) led me to believe that the chains were bad...
Thanks... glad it helped you out. You are correct that the timing marks are aligned correctly before removing the chains and they absolutely would need to be aligned when putting the new chains on.
Where did you find your diagrams for this motor? I have blown head gaskets im fixing to change and im at the point of tearing down the timing cover. I have this motor in my 2007 mercury milan premier
hello i have a question i have a 88 nissan maxima with the 3.0 v6 and it is an interference engine my qquestion is after removing all the timimg belt covers can i just take off the old belt and install a new one with making sure that no cams or cranks move??because my engine runs great now so it will be just a swap will it bend the valves do i have to realign everything againn? im also changing the water pump and tensioner please answer as soon as possible the car has 108000 the belt was never changed will u also recomend to change it now or wait??
You have to follow the specific instructions for changing the belt for that particular model/engine. There is always a specific sequence to change out the belt/chain on an engine and if you don't get it right, especially on an interference motor you will ruin the engine. Look up the service interval for that specific vehicle online... it will specify the mileage for changing the belt.
I'm curious, what tool did you use to pull and install the pulleys? You may have mentioned it in one of the videos, I was just skimming through them and didn't see anything about that. I plan on watching the full videos again. Just a little short on time at the moment.
I'm guessing you mean the harmonic balancer.... Used a harmonic balancer puller to pull it. To put it back I use a pipe wrench to hold the pulley (with a shop rag) so it won't damage the pulley as I torque the bolt.
Yes sir, thats what I was referring to. Thanks for the quick reply! I may be diving into this repair here soon so I'm trying to make sure I have all my tools lined up. Thanks again!
You can usually get loaner tools for pulling and installing the harmonic balancer from most auto parts stores... I have the puller and it's easy enough to use a pipe wrench to hold it for me rather than going to get an installer as a loaner.
@@CharlesAndCars thanks and final question... rock auto has the timing kit for cheap but they offer different ones for my v6 07 mazda 6. Says timing kit with vvt sprockets and then without vvt sprockets. Which one do i order??
@@DVrec22 I'm assuming that you're looking at the cloyes and the melling kits. They look the same to me. Melling just specifies that it doesn't include the VVT Sprockets (On the front of the cams). Neither kit does
@@CharlesAndCars yes on rock auto the cloyes and melling kits. So regardless of what they say, they are all the same. i was actually going to order the economy one "ultra power" one.
If the chain is jumped then the timing marks would not line up. Stretch is a little more difficult to determine. A miss could be a lot of different things. Try running the car and unplugging each coil one at a time and see if the engine miss gets worse. If the engine miss gets worse when uplugging a coil then that cylinder is not misfiring. You should be able to determine if one cylinder is causing the misfire and then work from there to determine what's happeing with that particular cylinder.
I get that I was just wondering how you determined that one you were working on was bad.I was going to just use an old timing light then tap the gas pedal,It usually makes the Mark go back and forth and you can see the slack that way.When I hit the accelerator there is no miss,but I can tell it is out of time,but once I let of it stumbles and I can actually hear the chain flap on the cover and knock.Thought it could be a connector rod making noise,or bearing journals.But when accelerating it makes no noise.and it sounds like they are all firing,but once I let off it stumbles and knocks.Could also be the tensioner ,but at that point might as well change the chain VVt and tensioner.Friends car has 125k,need to change at 100k most of the time.And 60k for timing belts.It does idle fine so I am guessing it did not ruin the heads,and the light pops on as soon as I let off the pedal.Belts tend to jump easier and being off 1 tooth sometimes make the car not run at all.More so on a chain because the distance is greater then a rib on a belt.I have also seen tensioners get chewed up and all the actual blades on it worn completely off.I had an old 305 in my Camaro and it jumped when I shut it off.Would not start at all.So when they jump it is when you accel and deccel,Once you deccel it brings up the slack,and that is when you hear the knock and ping and idle go funky.Then it will even out.Like I said I was wondering how you knew before pulling it apart thats all.I think the 2.5s and 2.3s have no key way and get out of sync and the gear on cam can slip but the 3.0 liter are fixed and you can't adjust them.So if the 3.0 is out it is most likely the chain.I will be using a timing light to verify tonight but I am pretty sure that is my problem.The misfire codes over the course of a few months got more frequent and her having changed coils made no difference.Those other mechanics she brought it too totally missed this,and did all the ignition coils and plugs and still same old missfire codes.I did change cam sensors just to make sure.It only cleared the P0345 code but the 0300 has always stayed.
Mine was throwing codes for the cam sensors and retarded timing... After checking out the cam sensors and determing they were ok about the only thing left was vvt and timing... Pretty much determined that it looked like a timing chain stretch issue as both were throwing codes.... Not a clear cut choice sometimes... for me that's what it ended up being.
Lot of info... this is not an easy engine to diagnose sometimes as it can be the VVT or the chain... you are correct that there's no timing adjustment on the 3.0 and if you're going to open it up to look at the tensioners then you might as well do the chain if it's got 125k on it. Make sure you look at the cam sprockets real well to determine if they're worn. Mine would throw codes between idle and 3k, but the codes would clear if I was on it and above 3k rpms. If you're going to pull it apart make sure you take a real good look at the vvt actuators as they are troublesome on some of the 3.0's. There's no easy way that I know of to determine exactly if it's chains... and the problem is the amount of time it takes to get to them and the cost of replacing the vvts on this motor.... From what I've seen you're looking at around 800 in parts to replace the vvts and the exhaust cams ... definitely not worth it... at that point you may as well get a 2006-2008 ford fusion version of the 3.0 and swap it in (changing over the pan, valve covers and timing cover...
yep it is not worth that,But from the smacking I hear it is definitely the chain hitting the cover it is so lose,I am just glad the heads are in tact.If they were not I would have just said new motor time.For the last year this car had misfire codes O2 sensor codes and precat warm up rich and lean codes.Missfires can cause all that,and dump fuel that did not burn into the cats,and or run too lean when the sensors tell the ECM to adjust fuel.And the Variable timing engines are very touchy when everything is not in sync.I have seen people change the cats and it ended up being a misfire,dumping fuel instead.Long term doing that can ruin cats for sure..
@@CharlesAndCars я капитальный ремонт сделал...собрал и по метка зажигании ставил...но не заводиться!!!! Почему??? Подскажите пожалуйсто???? Заранее блогадарю!!!!
I don't remember the specific code, but I remember it was retarded timing so I'm betting P0012. I know I was getting P0340 and P0341 codes for the camshaft sensors. As well as a bouncing tach and flashing Traction Control light...
Thank you for the response. I am getting everyday the P0012 OBD-II Trouble Code: Camshaft Position A - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1). I looked at the camshaft position at TDC (Cylinder 1 Up). Everything seem aligned. The ruler goes into both gap of the camsafts. and the marks are all aligned. What do you think could help me get rid of this P0012. My car is a 2004 mazda 3 S 2.3 L. There is a rattking noise everytime I reach 3000 RPM and above. At this point I dont know if i should just replace the timing chain or look into another direction.
The rattle could be the chain hard to say exactly. Have you checked your camshaft sensor and oil control valve for proper resistance values, I know on the 3.0 v6 you can pull the oil control valve and bench test it to see if it's opening and closing when voltage is applied... The 2.3 does have some timing adjustment (I believe through the crank sensor, but I'm not positive). It could be your timing is slightly off and I have seen where adjusting that timing has corrected the issue. There's no timing adjustment on the 3.0 v6.... The vvt issue usually shows up as a ticking noise at startup because of the pin wear within the vvt assembly. There was a lawsuit filed www.aboutlawsuits.com/mazda-class-action-lawsuit-engine-defect-70072/ for this reason. If you're not hearing the ticking sound on startup then I would lean towards the timing chain being worn/stretched.
Thank you again for the reply. I tested the OCV directly with a 12V battery it does close and open when applying the 12 V. You might be right about the chain being stretched. I did not try the resistance of the OCV yet. I will do that tomorrow. If the resistance is right in the range I will processed into changing the timing chain. I did not test the camshaft sensor yet because the code keeping coming and there is abnormal noises.( I do not know how to test the sensor....Or it is the same procedure as the OCV ?). The car has almost 220000 miles and the chain might be worn too. I saw the procedure of testing the VVT actuator that was being disputed in the lawsuit a couple of days ago.
I have a 04 Mazda 6 with 232,000 miles on it and runs like a top so probably a good bet to say that the previous owner change the timing chain somewhere back there??
