Permatex® The Right Stuff® BLACK Gasket Maker) This is a far superior sealant to use. The main composition is urethane, its bonding adhesion is unmatched.Thanks for the video.
This video just saved me a giant headache on my personal vehicle as far as rotating the timing cover in and out of place. Thank you so much! I will say that technically the AC compressor does not need to be unbolted, and the CV axle doesn't have to come out, nor does the oil pan have to come off (I'm replacing just the cover though, so there may be differences if you're doing chains). I do have a question for you, where and how did you support the engine to remove the mount? I just used a floor jack and a block of wood, but like I said I didn't remove the oil pan
Very good and informative videos. It appears you removed the front bumper fascia, bumper beam, headlamps, etc. Did you remove the front end to improve accessibility for the timing chain job or did you remove it for another project? Did you have to evacuate the A/C system or did you just remove the compressor and hang it with the lines still connected?
Removed the front end because I could not get one of the Ac Compressor mounting bolts loose. Didn't have to evacuate the A/C... just set the compressor out of the way...
Thank you much for posting this video. very informative. I have 2003 mazda tribute 3.0l. are they the same engine same procedure for timing chain?? please thank you charles i appreciated.
Not sure for that particular car. What you need to know is if the 3.0L in that model is the VVT or non VVT version.... That's the difference in doing the timing chains for the 3.0
Did you have a problem starting it? My crank pulley plate I marked mine before I removed it (the plate on the crank shaft that goes on after the two timing chain sprockets) and on my pulley plate I believe mine had the gap on the plate facing away from the key. So the key hole lines up one on the key and the other key slot shows the mark on the timing chain sprocket behind it? Is that not the correct way??? It seems too convenient to have the key slot and the timing mark line up with the two slots on the pulley plate. Please help.
I believe your talking about the crankshaft pulse wheel that goes on before the timing cover it put back on. The gap in the teeth on that wheel needs to be on the crankshaft keyway side. Take a look at 18:58 in the following video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-84-bPOw0h7o.html. If the gap is opposite the key then it won't work and that very well may be why you can't get it to start...
Great videos, sir! Thanks for sharing. I'm hoping this isn't something I won't have to do, but if I do, this will be super helpful. What timing chain kit did you use for this procedure?
Sorry to be so offtopic but does anybody know a trick to get back into an Instagram account?? I somehow forgot the password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
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Im about to change the timing cover gasket cause I have an oil leak and I would like to know what all needs to be removed first to remove the timing cover...
I'll try to remember everything... serpentine belt, Bracket bolts on (Alternator,Power Steering Pump, Ac Compressor), Exhaust Crossover, Oil Pan, Throttle Body (unbolt and set aside... no need to totally disconnect all hoses), Upper Intake Pluenum,Valve Covers, Front Motor Mount and bracket which mounts to timing cover (have to block up motor after removing Oil pan), Crankshaft Pulley, idler pulley, Tensioner Pulley. I think that's it...
Not sure what two small o-rings you're asking about... I don't remember any o-rings except the main o-ring for the timing cover and the one for the oil pan.
Charles And Cars . Yes those 2 0 rings came in my set. But i figured that they don't belong on the timing cover. I want tonthank you for the video. I did my chains correctly, thanks to you.
