On McIntosh amps like this one, the power/speaker harness is via an 18-pin connector (from the same family as the head unit's 14-pin). You can use an aftermarket harness intended for some Daewoo models (Metra 70-8405, Aerpro APP030, or equivalent) to connect to the car's harness or a reverse version of that to plug into the Mc amp. You'll want to re-pin the wires, since the Mc amp uses some different slots than a Daewoo stereo, and it can be helpful to place the aftermarket colors in slots appropriate to the Mc amp (for example, move the wire for Left Front speaker [+] to the correct slot for that on the Mc amp). The Mc amp's input is via a 21-pin round DIN connector (20 pins plus a terminal on the outer barrel). The HU feeds the amp analog, balanced, roughly line-level signals -- 4 main speakers plus a subwoofer, and an amp trigger. Older Mc amps used a similar round 13-pin DIN connector that only supplied 4 main speaker channels (the amp used those to synthesize the signal for the car's subwoofer) and the same type of 14-pin as the HU for the power and speaker connections (but with a different pin-out than the HU). It is possible to use the Mc HU with aftermarket amps or an aftermarket HU with the Mc amp. But as others have observed, in cars as old as the ones with the McIntosh system, the factory speakers are usually pretty far gone and probably not worth saving. For pin-outs and more information, search for blog posts by "NZlamb" and posts on australian Libery and UK Legacy forums.
Thank you so much. I just wish I watched this before I started! Step 1 for me was to remove the long vertical plastics beside the fascia, on a manual they have a screw. Broke one then went hunting for a guide. So good! Learnt some new tips like the stiff plastic rod to poke the wires through the dash.
Great video. You're a natural presenter bro. I'm sure you have brought more business into the shop where you work by sharing your knowledge. If I lived there I'd bring my Soobie in for you to do your magic! Chur
Thanks for making the video! This is the only information I've been able to find for my JDM Legacy over hear in Canada. Too bad I wired up the speaker wires from the amp data cable to the head unit first haha.
I always wondered living and dealing with car stereo wires in the states if they differed much from other countries. As u was mentioning what wires went to what its very clear how much different and in some ways simular the cars stereo wires are.Interesting video James,neat botch job.
Good info, thanks mate. Might have to pull my Mac HU out as CD player input seems jammed (can't load in any CD's). My 2006 GT has the amp under passenger seat. Under driver seat is the SAT NAV unit (Panasonic) it has an audio in which was great as I use it for AUX input (for my iPhone) - then use the SAT NAV display to toggle to AUX. The SAT NAV also takes CD's and DVD's. Problem is that its all in Japanese!
"Waste not want not" This is just NOT the proper way to solve the audio head problem. To save on the proper 2DIN "audioless" harness/bracket at the cost of destroying the stock audio head unit?? It's just ridiculous, and the final results don't look good either. And let's not forget, the original stock audio head unit has good resale value as well, but not without the front faceplate......
Hi! Nice work! I want to replace similar McIntosh head unit, but was afraid, that without the amplifier the audio system would not work, but you did! I will try to solder the 20-pin tail from the old heads to RCA and connect to the line outs leads on new head unit.
So, what I can say - new head unit not compatible with amp. Mc head and amp was removed and I made the same scheme as you. Also without subwoofer. Maybe do it later.
The din cable just has 4 line level channels and an amp on line (rem). You could happily splice in some rcas and the REM line to an aftermarket headunit. However most of these cars have completely shagged speakers too and as they're an odd ohm rating they're hard to replace. Better off replacing it with a cheap 4 channel amp anyway.
Just letting you and others know, you can buy bolt in OEM Subaru double-din fascia kits for about $120-$150AUD to replace the McIntosh stereo.. Saves hacking up your factory one and having loads of random useless buttons... And double din :)
do you have a link or something? i can only find kits to replace the subaru stereo, but i comes with a new ac control unit, you can´t buy it seperatly.
We hope to buying a 2007 Legacy 3.0R or Outback 3.0R in a couple of months with SatNav screen is there a way to add Audio input and maybe Bluetooth and Reversing Camera if it doesn't have one cheers Gaz
haha wow, You really did this the hard way - I make bypass cables that terminate in ISO connectors. Also sell the proper double din fascias that suit, rather than protruding like that
Nah blue wires are coming from the factory sub going to the Mac amp. So if your aftermarket headunit is sub compatible it’ll have rca ports and a remote wire in the harness, you then run power cable from battery to fuse then continue power cable to a aftermarket amp, then remote wire from HU harness to AM amp, find a solid earth and earth wire to AM amp then wire up sub to the amp.
Jason Hong I do solder. I do have heat shrink but only use it when absolutely necessary or on display because at my work I do a lot of cars and electrical insulation tape is just as good and cheaper.
that radio works just fine and looks really cool why didn't you just use the original factory head unit and just replace the amp? that radio doesn't have anything but preamp outputs so if it was the radio's preamp outputs that failed I would understand why it would need to be changed
Austin Childs you can't connect anything to these factory McIntosh stereos or amplifiers, they are connected with on great big thick din cable and all the communication is digital not analogue. I.e the head unit simply tells the amp when to turn up the volume rather than the output of the head unit increasing. So answer is you can't just "replace the amp" unless it was an identical factory McIntosh amp which you can't get. Also the current head unit doesn't really work fine if the customer wants anything more than CD and radio, I.e USB, Bluetooth, aux etc Which they did.
If you have the factory mcintosh subwoofer, yes you will need some kind of additional amplifier to drive it. Not that any proper car audio subwoofer amplifier is going to be too powerful for it as they are only 30-60watt usually, we use little 40watt amplifiers that you can fit in the palm of your hand which we get from our local electronic components store.
clean the damn trash before you start to work or ask the guy to clean it before he brings it in.Dont understand how can you work on the floor while there is ton of trash including food
+Jordan Jordanov I know sometimes it really gross I wish more people kept their cars clean but sadly they just don't. They'd probably just take their car to another installer if I told them to clean it.
