For those needing some context on this video, the idea is that RCA's will be the signal out of the head unit run through the vehicle into the amp, then the power out of the amp will run back up to the dash on your own speaker wires and plug into the factory harness which will then carry the power back throughout the vehicle to the door speakers using factory wiring.. thus completely bypassing the head unit's built in amp and wiring and eliminating the work involved in running your own wires from the amp to each door speaker yourself.
So the amp powered speaker wires needs to be connected to the factory hardness speakers wire and NOT to the aftermarket hardness? What do I do with the aftermarket hardness (speaker wires)? Just seal them off?
This was a way better explanation, I was really confused on why he had two signal outs to an amp, makes sense now lol 😂 I have never installed a system like that, I always ram my own cables from the amp to the aftermarket speakers. Wouldn’t there be a limit of power????
How??? This was probably the best video I’ve seen on how to amp your speakers. If you don’t understand it you should probably just go to an audio professional.
No, the first thing you need to do is not stand in front of a black background wearing a black tee shirt holding dark/black components. or is it just me.....
Man, I just just LOVE the professionalism you put into all your connections! Nothing is coming disconnected from one of YOUR installs! Makes me want to run out and stock up on heat shrink now, and FINALLY learn how to solder at 60 years of age! As for so many viewer comments not really understanding what you just did, I found it quite easy to understand. So I'll try to explain it like an old guy would: If you pull your stereo out of the dash, you will find a plug (some factory decks have 2). If you're lucky enough to have a car with an aftermarket deck (head unit as the pros call them), you're in more luck because they will most like already have a Metra-type (or Scosche or some brand) or harness in between your deck and speakers. You simply cut the factory speaker wires that go up into your dash (the end NOT on the side of the harness that go to the deck, and hook the speaker leads from your new amp to those factory wires going up into your dash. What I do on EVERY car audio job I ever do, especially when it's someone else's car, is to FIRST look up the radio wiring diagram (colors) for that specific year, make and model of vehicle FREE on The12Volt's website! I copy them down into my little car audio note book, plus copy them onto a MS Word document to keep on my laptop for future use. So back to this: It's really a simple job! He just made it seem more complicated because he took the time to neatly cut everything (including his fingers a few times I noticed! LOL!), then solder and heat shrink and label everything. I truly believe if he would have just done it like MOST backyard stereo installers, and just crimped wires and connected them a little faster, this video would have been easier to understand. ONE NOTE: when you cut your factory harness wires, make 100% SURE you know exactly which wires are for your speakers before you start cutting! Remember, 1 or more of those wires you could cut will be to constant 12V, another to switched 12V, and another to ground and maybe even illumination/dimmer. So you REALLY need to make sure to cut the correct wires. One way I used to do it, a trick I learned back in the early 80's, was once you narrow down your factory speaker leads but aren't exactly sure which one goes to which speaker? Simply take a C or D battery and strip off a little of the end of each lead. Chances are the wires to each speaker will be CLOSE to the same color, but not always. Anyway, if you take 1 wire and hold it to the bottom of the battery, you can then take each wire one at a time and tap the top of the battery with it. You won't hurt anything, believe me. When you find 2 wires that go the same speaker, you will hear a small pop at one of the speakers and BAM, you found ONE speaker! Tape those 2 leads together and keep doing this until you find the other 4. Sounds cheesy but it works! Especially if you have a wide variety of speaker lead colors like Honda's often do or my current Saturn. OKAY, THAT'S MY 2 CENT COMMENT for now. LOVED this video! But myself, being old and lazy, am going to go a different route to connect my Kenwood KAC-8406 to my factory speakers: I'm going to do the rear-to-front jump trick. Takes less time and less wire. Okay, gotta go read my 2 bibles! s254.photobucket.com/user/Hairball98498/media/Past%20stereo%20stuff/P4080015_zpsb91ddfa1.jpg.html
In the video, he did not "simply cut the factory speaker wires that go up into your dash". Instead, he cut and spliced into the Metra adapter (harness) so that the factory speaker wire harness remained intact. When finished the now spliced Metra harness would plug into the factory wire harness.
I miss the good ole days of the 80's and 90's when you could slap some Rca's in the back of the head unit and lay a run to the trunk and drop a power and ground cable with a remote turn on wire in the trunk and oh yeah some inline fuses and bam...pounding down the block a 1/2 an hour later. These factory radios nowadays have beautiful displays and shitty roll off bass. No RCA's on the back of factory radios totally fricken sucks !!!
Okay am I getting this right. I have to cut the speaker wires coming from my doors to my head unit. Connect the wires coming from my head unit to my amp. Leave the speaker wires coming from door speakers snipped. And plug the RCA's in. How do the speakers get power?
@@fivepointslogisticsinc5239 I figured it out. You need to connect the speaker wires coming from your doors to the amp then the rcas communicate with the headunit. The other way made ZERO sense to me make sense why haha
It’s going to work only on under 50 rms (watts). But if you have 4 speakers over 50 rms (watts) you need to use 14 gauge wire and 18 gauge wire under 50 rms or from factory wire that came from car.
So the only thing I was confused on, do you still need to run a power and ground wire to the amp? It may sound dumb, but you didn't show anything about those so I'm just trying to make sure
When I used to be an electrician, I terminated lots of wiring cabinets and terminal blocks for industrial equipment. I don't remember the brand, but we used a label maker that printed on heat shrinkable sleeves that was designed to slip over the wires. They could be left as is to allow for easier readability or heat shrunk onto the wire.
Doesn't matter how many of these types of videos I watch. I continue to learn less and less. No one answers the simple questions that I am looking to have answered.
@@MyDubsack the amp gets the sound signal from the RCA's. Then he's connecting the amps powered speaker wires behind the deck to not have to run new speaker wires
I thought it was looped also, but actually the white harness is an aftermarket factory wiring harness. It connects the black aftermarket radio harness, to your factory car harness which runs to your speakers. 1. Sound from Aftermarket radio to Amp= RCA Preamp outputs 2. Now amplified sound from AMP to Speakers = Spliced Red & Black wires with terminal connectors, to speaker GREY,PURPLE,GREEN ETC. At white harness side. That gets plugged back into factory wiring in Dash. 3. The little black harness comes from radio= Speaker wires cut & blanked off, no longer used for sound.
Ok I'm confused. I thought speaker wires go from the speakers to the amp and than the rca wires go from the amp to the back of the stereo. Am I missing something
So. 1) Connect the 2 or 4 channel RCA cables from the head-unit to amp. 2) Connect 4 speaker wires, from the amp to the factory harness. 2A) Keep in mind that you have to disconnect the factory harness speaker wires from the Metra harness speaker wires. 2B) You also have to cap (seal) the Metra speaker wires. 2C) Match, then connect the amp speaker wires to the factory harness speaker wires. Connect the other or opposing ends of the speaker wires to the amp. 2D) You’re now “ done “ with the amp to factory speaker wires connection & the head-unit signal to amp connection.
*The reason why this video has ONE MILLION views is because I (and likely many others) have had to watch this explanation over and over again in order to understand! :-]
Yes this is already my third time watching and I still only stand bits and pieces too much fast talking and not enough simplifying it for beginners but it's still a good video
Lmao right it was like a kindergarten class... alright guys copy everything I do and you won’t learn a god dam thing any questions... -billy”I do” -quality mobile “that was a rhetorical question!”
"How To Without Cutting Factory Wiring" but the first thing you do is cut into the front speaker wiring. I'm lost. Are you cutting into the harness you created? So how do I make that harness? Ugh.
you are right. though typically you would just buy that harness for your specific vehicle. search your vehicle with "stereo wiring harness adapter". in the videos hypothetical harness, he says the white side connects to your car. in your car, when you remove the factory radio, the wires in your cars dash will have a vehicle specific configuration, and your adapter will plug into that. then hopefully your adapter comes with some instructions to make it easier for you, but if not, its okay. you should be able to find wiring diagrams for you cars stereo system online. as long as you can find that, you can match up which wires are going to what on your adapter and then translate the colors. from there, you can follow the videos instructions if youre gonna do it like that. if your car isnt too antique or obscure, you can find adapters like the one in the video that are plug and play without an amp. for my car, the adapter i got plugs into my car and then has a bunch of wires i need to plug into my aftermarket stereo with my own connections and solders.
@@psyghtseer let me get this straight, he basically connects the wires from the amp to the side of the harness that would be plugged into the already existing harness which originally the car speakers and such are connected? And then shrink wrap those that would be protruding from the head unit's side of the harness?
@@wesbank6640 yes. this just enables you to not have to run all new speaker wires to each speaker. it bypasses the speaker outputs from the head unit, but routes the amplified signal from the amp back to the existing speaker wires at the head unit.
@@psyghtseer I greatly appreciate the info bro, seriously, and that's even if I still don't quite understand :- MY ISSUE IS is how do I connect my mid-bass amp to my factory speaker wiring but keep in mind my LC7i LOC is tapped into my factory speaker wires grabbing the signal. Conundrum IMO. I'm so ready to pay someone for the answer,, or.. pay someone to just do it for me already! I've been 8,000 RMS watts of just one powerful sub bass these last 6 months, time to amplify my Skar door speakers if you know what I mean. (Skar DNR w/ Taramps Bass 8K along with another couple grand worth of electrical upgrades in addition to the two-grand I already mentioned), ugh.
For a video that said not going to cut any wires you sure do you cut a lot of damn wires including the wires from the factory harness as you said in the description you would not do
So if I’m getting this right say your door speaker connects to the amp by spicing it and connecting it to the prong setup as showing and the RCA cables on the back of the amp connect to the RCAs on the back of the head unit? I think
What we need to know is how to add an amp to an EXISTING FACTORY STEREO in a modern car/truck. Like the UConnect system in Chrysler cars, they have 6 speakers with two rears and components in the front. Is it as simple as putting an amp between the speakers and head unit, using speaker level inputs, but leaving ALL other connections exactly as they are and thus retaining all functions of the head unit except that the sound is now amplified?
What's missing is other important information.. 1. is your amp built for the gauge size wire coming from the wire harness. 2. Power into the amp can make the difference of the true wattage output. 3. This easy connect method is brilliant if it's applicable to any car amplifier universally without declining performance from the amp.
Been doing this since the advent of factory to aftermarket wiring harnesses. Made life SOOO much easier. Especially when installing aftermarket stereos in leased vehicles. Now, if only they could come up with aftermarket plugs to make bypassing factory amplifiers this simple.....🤔
I was hoping this video was gonna show how to install the speaker wires to the stock wire harness by d-pinning the speaker wire and installing it that way to a factory radio. But if I were to úse a factory radio, I guess I would still need a metra bay harness to connect the speaker wire to a high input connection on an amp and then the amp speaker wire to the harness. Good watching this video!
Il like the video. As a theory. Unfortunately in real life it doesn't work. What's the point of fitting an amplifier with the original speakers? Almost none. I will explain why: -the original speakers are barely a bit more powerful then what the original car radio output. -the original harness is running near power cables ( electrical windows and so on) you will amplify also that additional noises. -The original harness is made barely enough for what it should do.. the cables are very thin. - the amplifier 90% of the time will go in the trunk because there is no space inside the car. So my way is been always like this: -I exclude completely the speaker harness leaving only the power cables on: no need for soldering and you can put everything back as original. -Do not save money on cables if you don't want a headaches later. -Run new speaker cables. -Run new power cables for the amplifier from the battery with it's own fuse a bit bigger than the amplifier fuse. -fit new speakers the maximum you can fit in to the original space... Otherwise create more space 😉. IF YOU REALLY WANT TO USE THE ORIGINAL HARNESS: with a precision screw driver you can take off the pins from the standard plug and add the fastom, again no need to solder anything. Btw you will most definitely and probably be disappointed with the original speakers sound.
There are are a variety of reasons people do this, namely not cutting the factory cabling. You can run speakers wire to the trunk for your new amps and speakers while using the factory speaker wires. Factory speaker wire can easily accept 75 watts.
Great tutorial! I was able to successfully wire up my aftermarket amplifier to my stock speaker harness without any issues. Thanks for sharing your expertise and making this process accessible to DIY enthusiasts like myself. Keep up the good work!
I feel like I'm missing something. How are the speakers getting any signal from the receiver if we cut them off from the harness and putting it into the amp wires? It's getting power and sending it back to the receiver but then how is it getting to the speakers?
This presumes you are using an aftermarket amp and headunit, you can do this with a stock headunit but you need to run the speaker level signals to the amp instead of RCA's
Most factory head units don’t have RCA outputs, this works for most aftermarket head units, but for a factory radio this simply won’t work. You need an amp with speaker-level (high level) inputs so this video is pretty worthless
No you don't. Your other option is to use a Line Output Converter which transfers the speaker level outputs from the harness to RCA's which connect to any amplifier with RCA inputs
So I watched this a few times over and you wired the radios speaker output to amps speaker output????? The radio speaker output should have been the side that was sealed off
i'm thinking the idea is that rca's will be the signal out of the head unit into the amp, then the power out of the amp will run along these wires back up to the dash and plug into the factory harness which will then carry the power back throughout the car to the door speakers.. thus completely bypassing the head unit's built in amp and wiring..
"Running the amp's output wires to the wires on the adapter harness is how you avoid having to run new speaker wiring throughout the car. That's the bottom side of the triangle in the photo - speaker wires from the amp connect to the speaker wires on the adapter harness. Then that harness plugs into your car." - Crutchfield
@@Keldren. my question is... if you cut the door speaker wires from the headunit and connect the amp to the head unit... how does the specific speaker left snipped know when to function or function at all... through the RCAs?
Hey I got a skar dual 12 inch subwoofers 2400 watts and a 2000 watt skar amp what's the best amp wiring kit I should use and do I have to do the big 3 or is there another way to save money watch your channel all the type and would love to hear some feedback from you if you could help me out don't want to buy the wrong thing
Without model number, arbitrary output numbers don’t really mean anything. Rules of thumb on current consumption, Class AB 50-60% efficient, Class D 70-80%. Volt x amps = watts, calculate your true RMS output, wire length with your max current consumption and you can see what wire you need.
Is then possible to do with not running the rca cables? Asking because my radio only has rca's for the sub output. And I'm trying to avoid running all new speaker wire.
Yes, if the head-unit has good full response good sounding outputs and you like it, get yourself a PAC LP7-4. oYou can also do this depending upon your amps, send that high level into the soldered RCA's directly.
I noticed that the amp output to the speakers is running back into the head unit which is confusing. Why would the amp output go back into the head unit and not directly to the speakers? I have a head unit with six channels of preamp outputs which I was going to run four RCAs (LF, RF, LR, RR) to the RCA inputs on a four channel amp. I was going to run the amp outputs directly to the speakers, not back into the head unit. Is this not correct?
@@Qualitymobilevideo Okay... I think I have it figured out. My confusion was orienting your example harness. I assume that the large white connector is plugging into the original factory harness and the large black connector is plugging into the aftermarket head unit. Is this correct?
the idea is to use the wires you already have going to the speakers. i think whats causing the confusion is he doesnt explain that he is wiring from the adapter harness. but just imagine this, when you plug your factory wires into your factory radio with no amp, the radio has an internal amp to weakly power the speakers. so essentially the wires to your speakers already in your car are the outputs to your speakers. in this video, they are teaching us how to leave your factory wires alone, saving you a lot of time and hassle to rerun speaker wires to the speakers in your doors and shit. so, you will need an adapter for your specific vehicle. most of the time you just search your vehichle year and make and youll find the right one, but sometimes you have to find one for the specific model too. now just find a wiring diagram for your cars factory stereo system harness on the internet or better yet, if your adapter harness has instructions its even easier. you plug your adapter into your factory dash harness and now your speaker wires that are already in your car are connected to your adapter harness wires. now just use your wiring diagram or adapter instructions, locate the wires for your speakers, and you can run them straight to your aftermarket amp following the instructions in this video. the idea of this is two benefits: leaving your factory wires alone, and of course, having your speakers powered by a strong amp instead of the weak internal radio amp.
@@AbslutZr I assume you mean from your head unit. well you're amp is gonna need the signal from the head unit so yes. You should be running rcas from your head unit to your amp for the signal or using a hi to low converter if your factory head unit doesn't have rca output. So you will still have all the function the head unit has
@@psyghtseer I have an aftermarket radio with 3 preamp outputs but I only have a mono channel amp. I am not installing a subwoofer but I want to wire 4 speakers to the mono channel amp. No big deal there, but I do want to retain the fade controls so I can kill the back speakers at my leisure. I'm not sure how do this with the components I have on hand. I have this stuff laying around and I'm not in the mood to buy a 2 channel or 4 channel amp.
@@AbslutZr oh I see what you're saying now, my bad. Well with only one channel you won't be able to use the head unit faders. I assume you'd probably be wiring the four speakers in parallel so you might be able to rig some kind of Killswitch on the back speakers...
That's fine and makes sense for the doors but if Im just hooking up my rear deck speakers it would be much faster to go straight from my amp to the speakers so ce they are right there ....right?
I was confused on the 4ch install you said to cut the wires from the metra harness 2 times. Did you mean cut the actual wires from the vehicles original harness ?
I just bought a planet audio it's always two days I still can't figure it out. I even think I burnt a fuse because I didn't unplug the harness so I saw a spark and the radio doesn't turn on .
I had the same point of confusion before about which of the two harnesses you were disconnecting the speaker leads from. I think it was hard to tell which harness was which. You were designating them as aftermarket and Metra. I have to think of it as Aftermarket and Factory or Stock, or it's a little hard to track. Logically, we have to tie the speaker leads to the "stock" harness to get signal to the existing speakers that are all Molexed up and terrifying! As I am just now going to be installing the whole system, head unit, steering wheel control, parking brake disable, aftermarket amp, I will simply follow the logic of not connecting the speaker leads together in the new harness, just clip and heat-shrink the ones from the aftermarket harness and wire the leads into the stock/factory/Metra harness to get the beautiful noise through the existing wiring. Now for the tricky part (hah!). I was able to eBay a factory sub/amp (which my 2005 Focus was not equipped with, though from all the rumors, the wiring exists. If the harness does not really exist, shall i just run one RCA from one of the sub outs of the AVH 1300NEX to the hatch, clip and strip the RCA cable to provide the input. Then T off the remote on and put an inline step-down to keep the amp from popping? All help welcome. I am learning a TON, and gratetful for your work! Hopefully I will only have to do this once. And keep this car forever!
Trying to amp the speakers in my 14 f150, keeping the stock head unit. Could I use four wires from lf and rf to the amp from the factory wiring harness then use 9 wire from the amp to go back up to the head unit and connect all 4 speakers and then insulate the other 4 wires which would be dangling from the stock harness?
You could use just a two channel LOC and use the 2 channel switch on the amp to run all four inputs. You will need to test the outputs of the factory radio to make sure they are full range.
Awesome video man,thank you. i did have one question,is there any limitations or dos and don'ts when it comes to what kind of amp you can use for this operation? thank you for your time.
How far away is that Amp supposedly gonna be sitting from the head unit ? About a foot Max ? Great Video but I wish you'd explain that most aftermarket Amps sit pretty far away from the head unit. Like under a seat or whatever. That Amp is a little too big to sit under the dash imo. Am I wrong ?
@@Qualitymobilevideo Most experienced people know that the Amp will be sitting somewhere other than under the dash but somebody giving it a go for the first time in their life would be confused. Especially when they realize just how long some of the wires, RCA jacks, etc. will actually be. Like I said it's a great video and I'm not trying to be an Asshole. I was just stating a fact for the newer, younger Guys or Gals. Either way, it's no big deal.
Hey guys I'm getting a Pioneer GM-D8604 4 channel amplifier rated at 100 watts rms 4 ohms with a Kenwood Excelon KDC-X303 Cd reciever with 5 volt pre out sin the back. Also running a 1000 watt mono amplifier for two kenwood excelon KFC-XW100 300 watt rms 10 inch subs. Also using a Pyramid AC to DC converter The PSC 300 30 volt I believe. I'm looking to upgrade my speakers to something that can handle that 100 (125 watt dyno unofficial) watt speaker amp that I'm looking to buy Wondering if anyone has any suggestions for something really nice around 75-150 bucks is what I'm looking to spend best bang for my buck would help but something competition status or close to it would do. I was thinking Pioneer pro series or Polk Audio DB692 DB+ 6x9 thanks
Very nice work 👌 if i want to install another amp for the rear speakers because i have one but is a 3 channel wich its wired the front speaker and subwoofer the questions is,, can i take +12v from the amp or i should roll another wire from the battery? Forse the second amp thanks
I don't understand how it goes to the speakers from the Amp, to me it seemed like, Amp to wire harness plug back into deck, or did I miss understand something. Your workmanship is great 👍
The car audio set up with amplifier begins with stereo + amp + speakers..Car amplifiers are built 3 wiring stations. 2 inputs, and 1 output station. Inputs consist of 3 wires to power the amp. Inputs consist commonly 2 - 4 RCA jacks connections from car stereo to the amp. Outputs will be your speaker wires. When adding an amp to your car audio system it usually takes a little planning due to specifications of the amplifier used in audio system.
Dont be lazy. Run new 16awg or larger diameter wire to your new speakers. Running new wire 16/14/12 awg wire to the old 18 or 22 awg garbage factory wire will cause a whole lot of electrical resistance, robbing power to the speakers.
@@dantheisen35 Dan, in order to use the fade control from your head unit you will need to have 2 sets of different inputs (2 rca cable pairs) to the amp...one from the front channel outputs of the head unit and one from the rear channel outputs of the head unit.
While useful and generally true, rewiring is almost always better as you can use a bigger gauge which is more than likely necessary especially if you're gonna be using an amp like that and using more powerful speakers than what came in the car
Factor he just hooked the output from stereo to amp brought the output from amp back up to head unit and hook up to factor wiring harness to speakers. It’s the factor wiring big enough? It should work might be a lot of wires running under dash
I currently have the factory radio harness connected to the aftermarket Metra adapter harness that is connected to my pioneer head unit harness. Now that I want to add the amplifier I am slightly confused as to which harness the speaker output from the amplifier needs to tap into. Factory Harness, Metra Harness, or Pioneer Head Unit Harness? Thank you in advance.
RCA's out of the head unit to the amp. Speaker wires out of the amp back to the harness that connects to the vehicles wiring. Then you're using the factory speaker wires from there to each speaker, so you don't have to run new wires through the doors.
Stefan Williams Correct. The whole idea is to drive the speakers with more clean power than the head unit can provide. So you don't even use the head unit's speaker outputs, just the RCAs to get signal to the amp. I've got a small Clarion 4 channel amp (50x4) wired this way and it sounds way better than it did when I had the speakers powered off the head unit.
If I have a two-channel head unit, can I use this technique to splice in a couple of extra speakers to the rear? If so, is there anything I need to consider?
@Qualitymobilevideo OK, well my car has a factory fit head unit with tweeters in the dashboard and speakers in the front doors, but nothing in the rear - so maybe it has four channels and I need to add two more if I want rear speakers.
Great video and great quality work. If someone doesn't understand how to wire it up after watching this video, they probably don't need to be doing it to begin with!
Great video, love your wiring techniques. Newbie question. If my aftermarket radio has RCA Jacks and Remote Wire for amp, Do I I still need to do this to my speaker wires? Or is this for installation for a Radio with no RCA Jacks? I'm about to do my 2006 Nissan Frontier without Fosgate System.
Thank you! This video is the speaker output from the amp to the factory harness without cutting the factory wiring. In 95% of the cases this applies unless you are running all new speaker wires through the doors and/or rear deck.
hello.... i like your videos...thanks for uploading.could you plz clarify the following doubts? 1.To run from battery to amp, Can i use the electric wires which we are using in home ? i am planing to use 6 sq.mm or higher thick wires... 2.how to tune the sony 1000w amp ..i would like to connect it 4 speakers and sub as you mentioned in a other video... How to tune the Sony xmn1004 amplifier? Do you have any demo videos..? Thanks in advance
Thanks for the great detail and time explaining how to manage the wire cutting and splicing. Definitely made me rethink my strategy and taught me how to do this properly and so organized and clean! It raised my expectations of quality, not only when hiring a professional, but with my own work. Beautiful! Thank you!
@@Qualitymobilevideo So if your not hooking the speaker wires directly to the radio anymore and going straight to the ampwith them, Will the radio still be able to "Fade" and "balance" control the speakers?
@@anthonylong5870 Yes. As long as you use separate RCA input cables for the front and back channels, the head unit will be able to fade front-back as well as balance left-right. If you only use one set of RCA input cables and set the amplifier to output on all four speaker outputs (IIRC it's the 2 channel configuration setting), then you will only be able to balance left-right.
Would there be any interference problem if I lay the amp input wires side by side with the amp speaker output wires and the 12v power wire together? Meaning I bundle them all up.
No bundle up. I would suggest seperating the the power supply wires(+ - rem.) On one side and the audio cables (rca LF RF LR RR) on the other. 2 seperate bundle ups, power and audio
So I already have an amplifier, subwoofer and aftermarket head unit, and I want to Install a second 4 channel amp for all four of my door speakers. I have a few questions about wiring it up. 1. Would it be easier to cut the speaker wires from the radio like you did and run them to the amp. 2. Can I use just one pair or RCA cables to send signal to both front and rear? 3. If yes (from question 2) what amp would have the switch for 4 and 2 channels? 4. Can I make a "T" connection into my existing remote wire to send signal to the second amp. 5. Would simply getting a 2 channel amp and bridging the front and rear be simpler since I'd only have to use one RCA? I'm a beginner with this kind of thing so I'm sorry if I'm difficult to understand. I really just want more oomf in my door speakers since they can handle around 100rms according to the box lol
Dakota 1: in my opinion i like running brand new wire cause i know what im looking at 2: yes you can 3:almost every 4 channel amp can do this, i prefer using the rockford fosgate p400.4 its 100 watts rms per channel at 4ohm 4:if you already have an amp installed just shove a second wire into the screw hole at the first amp or if you dont then make a t connection or if you have an aftermarket deck the deck should have either an amp turn on or a power antenna wire, its the same thing either way 5:NO, this will screw with you impedance get a 4 channel amp, remeber this you can always go bigger and get smaller heres an example: you can get a 4 channel and bridge it down to 2 speakers (if the amp is bridgeable) but DO NOT get a 2 channel amp and hook up 4 speaker unless your amp is rated for a certain ohm rating and is over powered cuz if you get a 200.2 amp your only running 50 watts rms to each speaker with 4 speaker, in hindsight 4 channel is easier and the amps today there almost the same size. Hope this helps
PLEASE 🙏🙏🙏 PLEASE I NEED YOUR HELP 🆘 "I HAVE A 4-CHANNEL SOUND STORM EV4. 400 WATT AMPLIFIER THE SPEAKER CONNECTION IN THE BACK OF THE AMPLIFIER GO FROM NEGATIVE TO POSITIVE ON ALL 4 CHANNELS ( -/+), INSTEAD OF SHOWING POSITIVE TO NEGATIVE LIKE MOST COMMON AMPLIFIERS. PLEASE HOW DO I SET IT UP WITH THE LOUDEST PERFORMANCE (RUNNING PIONEER 4" (PAIR), JBL 6.5 (PAIR)
I cannot find a proper wiring diagram for my 2011 Ford Edge SEL 8" touch sync non Sony to tap into stock headunit. I mean I found one online which happened to be the same as the info Crutchfield provided me with but it's wrong because those colored wires are no where to be found! So now I have a dismantled vehicle and an entire sub system including the LOC, sub, box, amp, capacitor, amp kit, big 3, etc but no way to start install!! Best Buy here I come unless some nice fella can provide me with the proper speaker wires colors..?? I only need either the front or rear mid-woofers. I don't have a sub or tweeters. Only 4 stock speakers all of which are inside the doors. Guess I may be able to remove two rear door panels to see what color wires are attached to the speakers but come on! The info must be out there somewhere.
hello few days ago i bought 4 channel amplifier ALPINE 445U (i have 2017 passat R line) i tried to connect to my factory radio and divide it to four factory speakers but couldnt because my radio doesnt have ACC wire and REMOTE wire. if anyone knows what to do please tell me on how to fix it thank you
im confused, why are you saying to wire the speaker wires from the amp to the connector for the head unit ? I thought you run RCA cables from the head unit to the amp, and then cut the wires at the head unit connector and run the amp wires to the wires you cut that go to the speakers to use the existing speaker wire.. NOT directly to the head unit itself. Also re-using existing speaker wire for amps that arent factory.. you sure ?? lol because what if my speaker wires are 16-18ga. and i have a 280-600w amp im installing.. 16-18ga is mighty thin wire for 100+ watts of power going to each speaker.. 14ga seems safer
So the speaker wires going to the amp connects to the speaker wires coming from the factory harness and not the harness that comes the aftermarket head unit?
correct.... Its simple... Think of it like this: instead of hooking up the aftermarket harness adapter(international standard color wires) to your aftermarket radio for it to be powered. You instead hook it up to your 2 or 4 channel amplifier. Basically you can use a product called 9 wire which contains 8 speaker wires(color coded) and 1 turn on wire(blue) which will help you cleanly extend your factory harness to under your seat or to the trunk.
How would you go about doing this if you had to add a line output converter? Also would I need two converters? One for the front two speakers and one for the rear.
So, hypothetically, if my stock head unit doesn' t have RCA ports, Could cut the speaker wire on the wiring harness, connect a LOC to one end of the wires, and wire speaker wire to the other end of the cut speaker connect the connection on the amp, Right?
I'm about to try it, lol I bought a couple extra harnesses just in case I mess up..I think I pretty much got it down though, except how will the speakers play once you cut the speaker wires because one end gets wired to the amp and the other end get taped off..maybe I'll understand that part once I get the parts in front of me and start doing it
Please explain the limitations to me bcuz I have the SCV 3000D... no way in hell that I can run wires from that amp into any factory wires 😝😝😝 what's the wattage limitations please?!?! So only do this with my 4 channel mids and highs amp? Or no bcuz I have the Skar RP 150.4AB ?!?! I'm thinking this won't work either bcuz of too much power. With my equipment I am fricken confused AF 😝😝😝 and pissed at the same time bcuz another day went by with no hook up bcuz I'm not doing anything until I find the right information or video. SUCKS I'M FEININ FO MY BASS LOL ‼️‼️‼️
Somebody help I’m a bit confused. So the speaker wire I’m running to my amp is connected to my factory harness speaker wires?? Or the speaker wires of the harness coming out of my deck? Please help thanks!
@@Qualitymobilevideo even though the vehicle harness connects to the aftermarket harness which then connects to the back of my screen deck? So cut the speaker wire off the factory harness side? Ok thanks
@@edwarddavis4091 You need to make sure the headunit speaker outputs are insulated and not connected. Only the amplifier outputs to the factory harness are connected.
