Thank you sir.. through you i want to thank all the nice people who put up videos like these,. my K5 600 was reluctant to go above 4000 rpms with all sorts of gastric issues, but through these videos, i cleaned my fuel tank, fiddled with fuel pump, cleaned injectors, fingered TPS sensor, relocated my rectifier and installed a CPU fan to cool it and... Wallaah...... first time i got scared of the bike's potential........ salutes to people like you...... from Pakland.....
Very nice presentation, extremely well explicit, very well documented, easy to follow instructions, must kind of you for everything, keep up the good work, must kind of you.
Have a 2002 GSXR 1000 that's just been completely rebuilt and also I took the factory exhaust off along with the exhaust actuator valve. The factory exhaust header's are still on the bike!!! Servo Buddy was installed to the bike and the code before the servo buddy being installed was -C46. That was the only to show up until this past week when FI code -C29 came up and it was for the reason. "I hook the secondary TPS sensor off the bike and the key was in the on position." The reason for me taking it off was for the secondary butterflies doing this weird chattering sound when they hit the bottom of the throttle bodies. They have been doing this since the rebuild use done to the bike & if it could be a reason it is doing this being (Throttle bodies not synchronize then I can get them done). Yes, after the rebuild they didn't synchronize my throttle bodies, which leads me to the next Question about the bike. It was starting fine with the secondary butterflies chattering as they were doing & the bike seemed to "Idea and Rev good but was running pretty Rich." However, That all changed when the bike is put under a load & would bog down in every gear with the throttle having a sweet spot in the 3-5k RPM range!!! (Bike runs perfect for that ⅓ of throttle spot for some reason). The bike will not get over 5k RPM's and falls on it's face there. It's bogs down about on take off but picks up quickly, until the 4200 to 5000 RPM range before it starts bogging down again. I am cleaning the primary canister filter for it now and in was nasty/black looking, but the bike is not running after I attempted to ride to my dad's house about 7 miles "went from 55 MPH to 20 mph max power of it." I am told that the exhaust could be the reason for my 4200-5000 RPM bogging because it needs tuned after the exhaust actuator valve and exhaust being replaced. Can you please help me out with this problem so I can get it going again? The help will be greatly appreciated.
@@abdielbluer6834 así es a 7000rpm se atascaba y ya no respondía como que si se ahogara es modelo 2003 pero siento informarles que otra vez regreso el problema y revise el tps de nuevo y esta bien calibrado ahora no se que más pueda ser tal vez la bomba de gasolina
hi..mine was on bottom when engine is running and hot, at idle. When cold and not running is in the middle. More rpm, 4000, in the middle. Do i need to adjust?
My FI light came on while riding. I noticed that the bike lost some power and struggle to go into Neutral when its between 90°c and 102 or when i rev it hard. I did put it in dealer mode and the code is -C00 need to set the tps sensor so that that line can be in the middle. What causes the lack of neutral at that temperature. What else do i need to check. Thanx in advance
Hello sir How do i balance the trotle bodies? I need to do the tps on my 08 gsxr750 but you mentioned to balanced the before doing this pls help or explain thank you Awesome video
Awsome dear....its 100% working....great work....i have suzuki 2012 model gxr1000cc....my ADJ button in dash board is not changing measurments in screen.while SEL button is changing.the other 2 buttons in right handle bar switch assembly is also changing readings on screen and working...but only dash board ADJ button is not changing the readings...while the same button working on time change etc every thing...just only initial reading not changing....any help???
I assume you mean that the line stays at the top when you move the TPS. Is the bike running and starting well? There is a possibility of the TPS being so far out of adjustment that there isn't enough adjustment available, so I would take the sensor off of the bike and rotate it slowly by hand with a screwdriver where the throttle shaft should be, to see if the line moves. If you get movement now, then you need to look for a reason, such as a bad throttle shaft, for the TPS not acting properly when installed. Any voltage or resistance tests I mention below have to be done with a digital multimeter, never use a sweep needle analog meter around computers. You can also check the voltage output of the TPS. Input is usually about 5V and as you move the throttle, the output voltage should vary from a minimum of about 0.2V to a maximum of about 4.8V. If you get no movement or voltage variation, then disconnect the sensor and check it with an ohm meter. The resistance should change as you rotate the sensor by hand. If these tests fail, then I would assume the TPS is bad, but, that should trigger a code C14. Without seeing the bike, it is hard to say absolutely, as there are very many variables. Since the line isn't moving and no fault code is present, and if you can't see an obvious reason, it would be best to get it checked out by a good technician, or, borrow a known good TPS and try it on the bike.
The line on mine is center at idle wen I put slight throttle it drops down but wen I open up throttle more then half the line jumps to the top is this normal
I need your help the sensor that looks like the tps that's under the one you move to adjust does that one need to be adjusted also I looked at it and it has a white line like the tps and it's not lines up could that be cause me issues
Would gp shift change anything Mine won't run good when in middle and seems to change when I check it again Thanks been fighting this all yr 06 gsxr1000
Mine centres. Tighten it. Still centre. Start the engine and it pops up or down. Also, of the 2 TPS, how do I know which one needs adjusting because when the bike is running the line is either up or down. Never middle.
I have only ever set the bottom one. Set it with the bike running. I added that as a text at the bottom, but do the adjustment with the bike off so people can hear me speaking.
To set the TPS you need a meter,My 06 gsxr1000 wouldn't run right with the line in the middle It ran perfect with line on the bottom. I set mine differently .My line would never stay in the middle.
That would make me suspicious of an underlying issue causing the bike to run better with the TPS not at factory setting. There are many possibilities, so I wouldn't even guess at it. On cars we use a multimeter to set them, but that is due to lack of a "line system".
@@skatman3872 if you know the spec then absolutely can be done. I'm just saying that for my peace of mind, I would eliminate all factors that could throw the TPS setting off before abandoning the built-in system. As long as you are happy and your bike is happy, that's great. Fuel injection is a great system but all of the parts of the system affect each other, which is why troubleshooting can be time consuming and expensive. I remember the systems from early '70s VW, which were a bear and hugely expensive to repair when they acted up. In most cases we just ripped it off and put on carbs. It has come a long way since then.
@@lelandlewis7207 I've been working on superbikes for 30yrs I just replaced the fuel pump and the tps they were 14yrs old .When I went with what the video said I struggling for a month trying to figure it out Turns out the position of the line wasn't as important as I thought it was Thank god I decided to do it a different way That's all that matters my bike is finally running like it used to .K5 k6 are monsters
@@skatman3872replacing your TPS fixed your problem ? I’m having this strange problem with my K5 where when I open the throttle fully it bogs down but when I let off the throttle a little the power comes back in but this limits me to a top speed of 138
I have a 06 gsxr 1000 and while riding my fi code pops up and my rpms drop from 5k to 0 then will go right back to normal. I've tested the code and it is a -C00 which is stating nothing is wrong. Any ideas what could be wrong with it would be greatly appreciated.
Assuming your in Canada by seeing your metric settings. Wish you were in Ohio. My 05 gsxr 1000 is running a little rich. I bought it with a power commander a while back. I adjusted my tps sensor. (thanks so much for the video) Have any tips on how to lean it down. I did have some bad gas that was making the fuel pump scream. It's all out now and fuel pump is quite again. Could the bad gas make it run rich? Appreciate any help
awesome thanks, after tightening and centering my tps i turned off bike, took out diagnostic wire then turned back on but still getting fi error but last time i checked code was c00.
I used a different method. Mine wouldn't go past 10 000 rpms But with the line at the bottom ran perfect. You have to move the tps and then rev the motor and keep moving it until it runs perfect. The actual correct way to set it is with a meter.
I have a 1250s bandit have a no start fuel pump primes but no fuel my line is at bottom. Where is the fuel shut off and will the tps being to low make a no start?
It is possible, but not likely for the TPS to cause a no-start. There is no fuel shut-off om the fuel-injected bikes. If your pump is running and you have no fuel to the injectors, then you probably have an issue in the delivery system. Check the high-pressure fuel filter (a good idea to change it if not done for a while), fuel regulator and the lines for a kink or collapse. Check that the fuel pump is actually pumping fuel, that the volume is correct and that the pressure before and after the regulator is correct. There is also a mesh screen on the intake side of the pump.
This adjustment sets where idle is so the computer knows the correct angle of the throttle to calculate fuel and timing. If the setting is off, then the engine may run rich or lean and\or the timing may be advanced or retarded for the load on the engine.
If you watch the video you'll see that at 3:49 there is a message to start the bike at that point to complete the procedure. I don't start the bike so I can be heard easily. As I have explained in other replies, yes, it can be called a Fault Indicator although the manual doesn't use the term. I use Fuel Injection because most DIYers use and recognize the term and its meaning. Either one gets the point across for FI, especially since many people call it the F-0ne light.
