2005 GTO suspension pt 14 differential mount insert, reinstallation of rear components

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Installation of Whiteline polyurethane differential mount insert. This was difficult and potentially not even worth it. At least it's inexpensive. Then I go over the reinstallation of all the stuff I had to remove to do the control arm bushings.
Outer driveshaft (axle) to hub bolt- blue thread locker, 50-60 lb ft (not factory spec)
Outer adjustment link to control arm nut- 46 lb ft
Shock absorber to control arm bolt- 85 lb ft (with weight of vehicle on suspension)
Differential rear mount to differential cover bolt- 70 lb ft
Differential rear mount to underbody bolt- blue thread locker, 25-30 lb ft (not factory spec)

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15 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 44

@TheTexican05 Год назад

Thank you for showing including ALL of the headaches of this install. People need to see what a pain it is dealing with this limited aftermarket, and the piss poor quality control on a lot of Whiteline products. I did my Pedders rear diff insert way back in 2008 and I remember the SAME fitment issues. The shape and cut of the diff insert did not match the rubber outline of the OR mount. Infuriating! I like your method of cutting the rubber mount and sparing the poly bushing. Also props for using scribe/witness marks to recenter your subframe. I don’t know why more people don’t think of or discuss this! Keep the content going, Goat brother. 🍻 🐐

@evsnova74 Год назад

Well thank you sir. I hope to get back to working on it this winter, currently purchasing a new property and trying to convert the once wood shop into a mechanic type shop. But regardless I will get back to GTO content at some point.

@fredwaters3420 11 месяцев назад

I appreciate the video. Thank you! Good to know its going to be a pita to install. I may just wait until spring to do mine.

@permabulk1454 2 года назад

Also, the fact that you mentioned one of my favorite forum commenters just made my day 😂

@evsnova74 2 года назад

He's hilarious and full of knowledge

@WayneHarding-jr1qf 3 месяца назад

I used a clamp pulling the bush to bottom getting the big side in first then doing the same for the other end

@permabulk1454 2 года назад

Why is literally every single fucking thing we do to these cars fucking difficult as fuck and not just straight forward 🤣

@evsnova74 2 года назад

We're gluttons for punishment

@TheTexican05 Год назад

They’re wonderful cars that are truly awful to work on… (9/15/23 makes the 16th anniversary for me and my 2005 CGM!)

@permabulk1454 10 месяцев назад

@@TheTexican05I have a 2004 PBM !! Love every moment with it!!

@dijitle 2 года назад

I did use Vice-grips to compress the middle part down. And I did cut off that lip too. There’s a video on my channel about that. It’s a pain. Someone said to cut it open and reweld… but way too advanced for my blood.

@evsnova74 2 года назад

Same. I was afraid I'd bend the metal all up even if I was able to pull it off.

@goat_life254 2 года назад

The important thing was no goats were hurt during the filming of this video. I’m curious to see how it feels now. My wheel hop is gone and I still have cradle and control arm bushings to install. I wonder if I can put the bc springs back in and still be good? Please lmk how much hop you have after all this?

@evsnova74 2 года назад

I will, I'm also going to get a clip of the rear end squat on a street launch. We're finally getting the rain I was hoping for to rinse the salt off the streets here today but I developed a power steering line leak, probably from when I lowered the rack. So installing braided SS power steering lines is another video I'm gonna do now but summit sent me an open box with the wrong length and diameter of line. Yet another delay

@goat_life254 2 года назад

@@evsnova74 I’ll most likely do the steering lines as well. I need to check how mine squats too. I want to put 275 rear tires on it but I want my fenders safe. I’d like to test these coilovers with a dragy. See if adjusting them helps it launch. No videos on anyone doing that yet.

@dmystify1381 3 месяца назад

...i know this is a couple of yrs old...but the only person i seen have success with this, was to actually Lower one of the rear wheels pressing it into the housing.

@evsnova74 3 месяца назад

Having enough force wasn't really a problem as I recall, the biggest thing I was worried about is separating the rubber from the mount housing. Once I cut the bevel on the insert it went right in. I should probably check on it and make sure it hasn't popped out lol

@Lunt-le9jz Месяц назад

Is the tab on the oem differential mount intended for jacking the rear up? What is that thing for.

@evsnova74 Месяц назад

@@Lunt-le9jz I honestly have no idea. I think it might be but I always just used the diff itself

@Lunt-le9jz Месяц назад

@@evsnova74 I’ve always been told that using the diff is okay. It sounds crazy but I suppose if you are careful it’s not unsafe/ bad for the car ??

@geovannimonge8397 Год назад

Good video. Make choices. Choose wisely. I might go for the g force mount. Or the one with the gto logo.😂😂 screw it.

@evsnova74 Год назад

Idk what to think anymore, guys were saying if you're not going full harrop, just use the insert. Seems crazy, the gforce mount looks awesome. Whatever, I'm in it for the insert at least for now.

@gtomadness0433 2 года назад

I've got rack and pinion next on my project list. Should be here Monday. I might have to look into the braided lines while I'm in there. What size/diameter lines are they? I'm gonna rebuild the power steering pump and relocate the reservoir too

@evsnova74 2 года назад

I'm using -6 an ptfe lines. You need: 2- EAR-991955ERL 16mm pump/rack pressure fittings 1- EAR-991956ERL 18mm rack fitting 3- RUS-620421 90° fittings ( or 1 RUS-620421 and 2 RUS-620411 45°s if you can find em) 1- RUS-620401 straight fitting 1- RUS-670300 -6 hose barb 1- RUS-632620 10' ptfe line You run a pressure line from the pump to the rack, then a return line from the rack to the cooler, should be self explanatory once you start looking up the fittings on summit or jegs

@evsnova74 2 года назад

www.ls1gto.com/threads/stainless-braided-power-steering-lines.442131/ In case I made a mistake copy pasta'ing

@permabulk1454 5 месяцев назад

What’s up dude. I was just installing my stock dif mount with the insert and low and behold I fucking cross threaded the bottom 22mm bolt on the main dif bolts. Not the four 13mm ones but the two short stubby 22mm ones. I got the top one in then started to screw the bottom one and cross threaded. What the hell do I do now? Tap and die? Or what else could I do??

@evsnova74 5 месяцев назад

Oh man. I'd be calling Day's past yard and seeing if they had one. Pretty important part to be depending on damaged threads.

@permabulk1454 5 месяцев назад

@@evsnova74 if they had what? A whole new cover?? I read on the forum to Heli-Coil it? It’s just aluminum and it’s literally like the first couple threads on one hole. I even bought new m14x1.5 30mm bolts. Just kinda bummed now and wondering if I order an m14x1.5 Helicoil kit or what

@evsnova74 5 месяцев назад

@@permabulk1454 yeah that's probably worth a try first and if it pulls out or for whatever reason doesn't work, then you could always get a used cover at that point.

@permabulk1454 5 месяцев назад

@@evsnova74 for sure. Ugh always something. The top bolt went in kind of snug because the poly added some extra depth to it so I just thought the bottom was giving me a hard time but nope. Sure enough, cross threaded the first few threads. I’ve seen a bunch of hacks on how to do it easy but a dude on the forum said he did the Heli-Coil method and it not only worked but added strength (cuz stainless steel into aluminum) I see generic versions of Helicoil on Amazon for a 1/3 of the price

@evsnova74 5 месяцев назад

@@permabulk1454 that shouldn't be too bad then. I just hate doing stuff like that in place. Would be nice to have a 90° drill