2006-2012 Toyota RAV4 fuel pump replacement and common issues $324 saving on pump 

You saved my life bro 😅 A 2008 Toyota RAV4 came in on a hook. Turn over no start, it started once. I scan it and it had a P0335 for the cranck sensor, there was a TSB for a updated intake cam gear but we ended selling the whole timing chain kit since we were going to do the updated cam gear. After the job it still didn’t start. I knew everything on my end was good with the timing chain kit. I proceeded with checking the fuel pressure and there was none. I replaced the fuel pump with a OE but they only sell the pump. After the installation of the fuel pump, it still didn’t start. There was still no fuel pressure 🤦🏽‍♂️ I dropped the tank again and checked it but it was late Saturday and call it for the day. I searched many RU-vid videos on Sunday till I came across yours. I realized I didn’t install a new seal on top of the pump just like you did because I didn’t see one. Anyways, Monday morning I was able to see my mistake. THANK YOU bro 😅

Excellent video! Luv the way you sped it up and the quiet music in background. Thank you.

great video, used it to replace the fuel tank on my 2008 rav4. Thanks to the video, it wasn't a complicated job, the hardest part was removing the old screws from the fuel pump and the meter, they were really bad. Hammer with screwdriver to chisel around the sides, then lots of wd40 and vice grips and barely got them all. Otherwise great job explaining.

Ok, used this video to replace the fuel tank on my 2008 Rav4. It did show most of the main points, but it skipped by some of the tricky bits. First of all, it didn't mention that the passenger side bolt of the middle strap is partially behind the drive shaft, which necessitates a hand wrench since no way an impact wrench is getting in there. Secondly, the screws holding the fuel pump in place are likely to be overtightened in the factory and a bit corroded. I broke several phillips head bits trying to get them out without stripping them and about four required vice grips in the end - much more of a challenge than it looked in the video (perhaps easier to get out?) Thirdly, putting the tank back up and getting the straps back on is a bit fiddly. You have to get both sides started before tightening either side up. Be careful when re-connecting the hoses with the little plastic keepers on them as they tend to slip inside a bit when re-connecting and could get broken if you aren't careful. Overall the video gave a solid overview of the process but actually doing it can be a lot more effort depending on what condition everything is in.

i appreciate the video man.....im gonna try this out...thansk for the bloopers too. Those help too/ sometimes more

Great video. Very easy to follow. Thank you! Leaving out the o ring is exactly something I would do! Oh that sucked but at least you got it going in the end.

thank you for the post , i was dealing whit the same issue . and couldn't figure it up until i found you. .

Great video. Three things. First, the inner plastic cylinder that houses the fuel pump is the main filter (in its sides like an oil filter) which is usually what needs replacing ($19 on ebay). A dirty one might decrease lifespan of the electrical pump. Second, disconnecting the fuel line ("top and bottom blue tabs" at 1:30) on the front of the tank started leaking for almost 5 minutes and was about 2 cup fulls. Luckily I had the oil pan nearby. I could not squeeze those tabs with my fingers to get that connector off, so I duct-taped ball bearings to each end of a small channel lock for the ball bearings to squeeze the buttons inward. I don't see how people get those off with their fingers (there's another one under the hood close to the firewall hiding behind wiring that I've seen people squeeze with fingers...you need skinny and strong fingers to get in the square holes). This was actually the hardest part of the job. Third, there are two options to empty the tank. The easiest is to run it 15 miles after the light comes on. This should not run out (20 miles might, 10 miles is safer if you don't have a gas can in the car) and leaves about 1/2 gallon in the tank which doesn't spill out of the refill hole when you disconnect it. I tried disconnecting it right before the light came on and fuel started coming out. Dropping the tank a bit haphazardly didn't leak any of the remaining fuel. Just be careful not to let it tip down on side with the refill hole. The other option to empty the tank on these models (at least on my 2008 & 2010 RAV4s), is to apply power to the pump and tap the fuel line at the "blue tab" connector mentioned above or under the hood (not easy, you need to have a fuel pressure gauge connector on hand and experience tapping it) to pump the gas into a can via tygon tubing. To power the pump, you can connect 12V+ from the battery to "IA8" on the "instrument panel junction box" by driver's left knee. If your RAV4 differs or if you touch that un-fused 12V to the wrong spot you could burn out your $1,000 ECU or a relay. You could alternatively short IA8 to IB11 with the key in "start" position (not ignition) to be a little safer but I found a long wire from the battery easier & safer because I have only 1 wire poking around in the ECU panel. IB11 and IA8 are the two sides of the relay "out" switch, not the relay "in" that powers the switch. IA8 goes directly to +side of the fuel pump. IB11 comes from EFI or "ignition" wiring that is 12V when the key is in "start" position. The relay closes when you go to "ignition" for IB11's 12V to power IA8, so a short (a wire) across them just prevents you from having to go to ignition which would make make the starter turn over and over. The relay is turned on (the IA8 & IB11 switch is closed) by power from the ECU across by IE5 and IF4 (I don't know which is ECU voltage and which is ground). I could not find out where the physical relay (C/OPN, not F/PUMP) was located, just these terminals that are connected to it. Do not power the pump after tank is empty because it requires gasoline running thru to cool it off (that might be the purpose of the skinny tubing in this video).

Thanks for the video, on the 2008 Rav4. My question is about the 2007 Rav4. Does the fuel tank on the 2007 have to be dropped to access the fuel pump, or could it be accessed from under the rear seats. Thank you

Great job bruh 🍌

I notice a HUGE difference in price between the Amazon part, and the O'Reilly part, that you showed in the video. Of course i would much rather save $300 , do you think there is a difference in quality? The savings means nothing if you get stuck on the side of the road.

incredible... was there a fuel filter changed as well?

My friend just had the fuel tank replaced on her 2009 Rav 4 because it had a big dent in it. She figured while having the work done she might as well replace the fuel pump too. Now the vehicle starts really slow. She called the garage and they said it’s probably the check valve in the cheap fuel pump(she didn’t opt for the cheapest one….). So I’m wondering if anyone has any ideas about how one might replace just the check valve, although really I’m wondering if the garage messed something up.

Can you link me the filter please?

Hello..may I have the part number for that fuel pump with a strainer..I see its $33.00?

I believe you should've to replace all the fuel pump assembly instead of talking it apart since all internal components are not quite llast lomger from the original equipment.

Which year was this ? USA or canada version ? Thanks

Əladu

Can we get an updates on the fuel pump? is that brand still working good now?

Good video. What about the fuel filter? Is it along the frame or in the engine bay?

the resistant of fuel-pump must be measure,, the new must closer value to the older..

May I ask why didn’t you reach to the pump from above the tank, behind the back seats?

is this a 4 cylinder or V6?

Does the fuel pump with all of its components has any effect on fuel consumption?

what symptoms did the car give you that prompted you to change the fuel pump?

Is that pump worth it? Surely it’s not only 32 dollars when I’m seeing pumps for 200-500 32 seems awfully low

Id never use 4 jackstands

Well, my car still cranks but won’t start, any ideas, please help!

Unlucky you once it happensd to me bad fuel pump connector had to pull down fuel tank twice with in few hours Cheers body we all have to forget somthing

You should have slowed down instead of going somfast

Using a electric drill with gas fume may not be a good idea...it may cause a fire🤔😮

Slow it down

Wrong pump