With fluid that dark, it's good to do two or three fluid changes. Do the first change, then drive it for probably a good 500 miles to let the new fluid you had put in to help break up any build up, then do another fluid change. Repeat if your fluid is still getting a darker color after 500 miles. These 3rd gen CR-Vs will often develop a shiver from the transmission if the fluid isn't changed enough, like that, which usually goes away after around 3 fluid changes.
@jordanenis7391 from what others in groups I'm in, they say to change it, drive a few hundred miles, change it again, drive a few hundred miles more, and a third time change the fluid and it gets rid of the shiver. It's the torque converter portion of the transmission gets blocked with gunk, and the multiple fluid changes cleans out whatever is in it causing that shake, most commonly.
@jordanenis7391 also, it'd be good to change your rear differential fluid. I just changed both my transmission fluid and rear differential fluid today. I have had that same shiver. I changed the fluids and drove around for about 45 minutes and the shiver is gone.
Awesome, thank you! I'll prepare for an oil and trans fluid change next weekend, I don't have jack stands and with my skill/luck I will mess something up while changing these fluids (can't ctrl + z in real life).
You forgot to mention you need to do that 3 times. The transmission actually holds over 10 quarts of fluid, so it's best to change it then drive for a week, change it again, drive for a week, and change it again. This way you are replacing most of the fluid, unfortunately you can't replace all of the old fluid. Also it wouldn't hurt to replace the inline filter if you car is over 80K miles.
You really only need to drive for about 10 minutes between fluid changes making sure that you shift between all of the. And the whole idea of changing that filter is BS. That filter doesn't filter out anything unless the transmission actually fails and then it can catch some of the clutch material so that it doesn't plug up the fluid cooling system or run back into the transmission. If you replace it at a fluid change you run the risk of causing a leak that wasn't already there when you remove and reconnect the hoses and you don't gain anything. You also lose a few dollars
This is an interesting point. Thanks for bringing this up. I'm reading the Honda shop manual, and it doesn't say to do this (or not to do this, for that matter). It would be over $80 just in the cost for 10 quarts. Also, some of the new fluid would be drained out, more and more, each time one re-drained it. But I would like to find out for sure what the official directions are in this case.
Please use Honda ATF-Z1 on the 2007 CRV AWD version. There are numerous threads about using Honda DW-1 or Z1. Page 273 of the 2007 Honda CRV owners manual clearly states using Z1. I know there are comments about the DW-1 is the newer version and backwards compatible, but why would you change from the original?? Just saying. Change to the new version at your own risk.
@@wizlipskings8958 you are supposed to drain and fill 3 times. But you are supposed to drive a few hundred miles in between each drain and fill. And the manual is correct, it's like 2.8quarts. I just did it and it's cold so I couldn't get the fan to come on or get the car warm enough so I went for a drive and then came back and let it sit for awhile and then did it while it was still warm to check it.
@@bertrenolds5 drain and refill 3 times yes , must I do it with brian new Atf for each drain and refill?? Or after the first set of refill I drain it and fill it back . Or I drain refill with brand new Gear oil again . In which case it will cost more
@@wizlipskings8958 the point of this is to replace your transmission fluid so yes put new fluid in every time. Eventually by the 3rd time you will have mostly new fluid in there
I can't seem to get a good read out on my dipstick. On one side with the hi low words it shows very low but on the other side even over the hi mark. I've tried multiple times and also done when car hot both running and not running. I've ended up putting over 3 quarts right now and can't tell what to do. Ideas? Also should I check when car on or off?
Honda says first get the engine warmed up to normal running temperature, move the gear selector for a moment each from Park to Reverse, Neutral, Drive, then back to Park again, then shut off engine and check fluid level within about a minute.
Great video, thanks! My 2007 auto CRV is currently making a "bearing " noise in the transmission - do you think changing the fluid may help with this or perhaps it's a more major issue?
Years ago I used to be part of several Honda CRV forums and the members were adamant that a “flush” wasn’t recommended by Honda due to technical bulletins stating contrary. They all admitted drain and fill was the way to go.
I have heard some people say that when transmission fluid hasn't been changed in that long that changing it can actually make the transmission go bad because it was relying on the old fluid, but I don't know if that's a proven thing. There is an external fluid filter.
@@MechanicalMalarkey I actually just looked at the CARFAX and it was changed out at 159k miles. I got it at 162k miles, so how long can I reasonably go until the next change?
@@MechanicalMalarkey very true of American made cars. Repling a portion of the fluid is preferred to maintain the built in sealing feature of very old fluid. You’ll get the benefit of renovated fluid.
No need to change the filter. Filter change is only indicated if you do a transmission rebuild/overhaul. I believe the main function of the transmission filter for honda vehicles is to to catch metals from new parts.
Thanks for this advice. Now I have this question. Do I need to do anything special to flush the ATF from the torque converter or is this as simple as draining the old ATF and filling it up with new fluid? If so, it should be a breeze (I hope). @@greenerfrog
@@dougowen4871 you'll never be able to remove 100% of the old fluid from the transmission by draining, and that's fine. It's generally preferred to leave some old fluid in to keep the viscosity thick. If you haven't done a transmission fluid replacement over many miles, the old thick fluid might be the only thing preventing your transmission from slipping. If your transmission is ruined after a transmission fluid drain/replacement (assuming everything was done correctly), the transmission is already out the door. You generally do not want to flush your transmission. (Even more, if it's old) Something extra you can do is drain and fill 3 times, as the total fluid capacity is 7.6 qts on your vehicle. Every time you drain, you essentially remove about 3 qts, so by performing it 3x, you remove/dilute most of the oil transmission fluid. In between the steps, go through every gear and drive for about 10 mins, and then you can drain and repeat. It's not necessary to do this, however. One extra tip is to have a cheater bar for additional leverage when removing the transmission drain plug; I'm not the strongest person, and I would not have been able to remove the plug without it, lol. I did two transmission fluid drains this year (one January, 2007 honda accord, and one yesterday, 2011 honda crv 😆), so if you have more questions, I'd be happy to answer more 🙂.
Hi. Why did my 2010 CR-V AWD took close to 3.6 liters? I was on level ground. But I jack on the drivers driver when draining, maybe it drained ou more?
Hello Dan . May i have the question . How do i check the level for transmission fluid . Do i check the engine running or the engine turn off and then i check fluid ? Thank you . and have a nice day .
@@MechanicalMalarkey Congratulations.do you use transmission oil additive for the transmission.my car sounds "smack" when I take P to R at first start in the morning, but what could be the reason why it does not come in the next replacement.. should i use additives
Humor Vas's...I suggest you change the filter, it's an external filter pretty easy to get to, you might have to remove a under body panel (it's not difficult) and then disconnect 2 hoses and one bolt holds the filter. There are RU-vid videos on it. I've researched this for a friend ATF and filter change is pretty straight forward, If you can change oil you can do the transmission. IF the ATF is really dark drain ATF twice (at least) drive vehicle about a week in between ATF changes then during SECOND (or last drain) drain replace the transmission filter. The filter isn't very expensive. You've heard the expression "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" but here we're talking maybe $75 vs. thousands (if your transmission fails) How to change Transmission filter: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-R3mivDIl08Y.html. Great video
@@harryberry474on this vehicle that filter doesn't do anything unless the transmission actually fails so it's a waste of time and money and might cause a leak that wasn't there
@@ab7rs ...so Honda put a external transmission filter in there for the hell of it? right?...but, if the transmission fails then it's a good thing to have? Your comment doesn't make much sense. Yeah I guess it could leak if you don't know how to remove 2 rubber hoses and re-install...you're right YOU shouldn't do it.
@@MechanicalMalarkey Thanks for your reply MM. My Honda dealer is letting me know for sure if the tranny and transfer case (for a '07 CRV-4WD) share the same fluid as soon as their service manager gets back to me next week, but what I found out on a Honda forum last night was they are not separate, but share the same fluid.
@@ab7rsOn other cars I’ve had what you are saying would apply as they are a strainer rather than a filter. Unless someone opens up the metal container on this one, there’s no way to know if it’s an actual filter or just a strainer as this filter is in a sealed container. Well, sealed except for where the in and out hoses go but that’s too small to determine the material inside.
@@ab7rs Ah, well if the Honda FSM explains it as a strainer more than as a filter I have to agree replacing it is not necessary if no transmission damage.
Marsha Meinders...When you can't remember the last time it was done...it's time. Seriously, your car should have a service reminder warning on your instrument panel . Also look at your Transmission dip stick the ATF should look pink(ish) if it looks really dark or BLACK change it ASAP. Here's a really good video on this topic: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-o690DovjDAc.html
The transmission holds more than what gets drained out when you just take out the plug, so if you want to get more of the old fluid flushed out, you need to drain and fill, run it for a bit, and repeat.
