I think this is the best instructional video I've seen on RU-vid. Very clear, detailed, and to-the-point. Diagrams, sizes and torques were given. Great lighting and camera angles. No obnoxious RU-vid voice affectation heard so often, just a guy talking in a normal way that is easy to follow and understand.
I changed my 2013 v6 timing belt 4 years ago and I got a very deep cut on my thumb when the back cam slipped forward. It was very hard for me to hold enough tension of the back cam in 1-2 teeths forward with one hand and aligned the new belt with mark on and slide it under the metal guard rail with another hand. The back cam jerked forward and there went my thumb, the outer edge of the back cam was very sharp and it slit my thumb with a deep cut. I'm telling this so whoever plans to do this to be careful at this step. OP did a fantastic job because he's a pro 😁 and made it look easier than it actually is when it's time to put the belt on the back cam with limited room and slide it under the metal guard while moving 1-2 teeths to align the marks. Everything OP did in this video is top notch. I was not aware that one can do this without taking the steering pump apart. Well done OP.
This was an excellent video and looked very straight forward to do myself. You are obviously a very experienced mechanic. I do most of the service on my family's cars over the years and this was my 3rd timing belt change (first on this MDX). It did not go well and took a very long time. I bought all the recommended parts and tools that I did not already have. Several things went wrong like snapping the bolt head on the ground wire and discovering that the upper guide of the old water pump was stuck in the hole and I could not get it out. I was able to drill it out of the new one and installed it without leaks. I could not tighten that main bolt past 15 degrees more even though it said 60. Using my torque wrench I was able to get the max 200 foot pounds though, Upon finishing after several days, the car runs rough and is flashing the check engine light, error code p301. All plugs and ignition coils were changed earlier in the year. I re-installed the belt again with the same result. I triple checked that I lined up the new belt with the old like you showed, lined up the front and rear cams but I am obviously off. I am posting this humbly and as a warning to others that are considering doing this to make sure you are up to the task, it is a lot of work and very tedious. Ultimately I am bringing the car in to have it done by my local mechanic.
@farnerol Thanks for the comment. Sorry you had so much trouble with your car 😕. A P0301 is a cylinder one misfire and is not related to the timing belt. When you changed the ignition coils what brand did you use?
Where would those be located? Are they under or near the water pump? I found another video but they removed the oil pan. That seems like too much more work.
@@jaysone950 I guess I thought he meant the front crank seal. Once the belt is off the crank gear should slide off and the seal can be popped out and a new one tapped in.
@@thehegt No, the driver side can stay on the ground. If you want a little more room under the car then you can lift the driver side up. Other than that it's not necessary 👍
thanks for the video. It was easy to follow. Though I created a bigger problem for myself. I broke two water pump screw by over torqueing it. It is the two top left. Base on it location I wasn't able to extract it. Any suggestion? I have't drove it yet but left the car on the 5 minutes and nothing is leaking yet.
If you have it all back together and it hasn't leaked you might be ok. The engine mount bracket also puts pressure on the pump so it may seal up just fine. Take it for a spin and check it again when you get back.
I am a shade tree mechanic and have been following this video step by step today, all has been perfect, thank you! The one issue I have is it appears my rear cam has rotated from its 12:00 mark to like 3:00. So I have the new belt lined up on the crank and the front cam, but the rear cam has somehow rotated about 60 degrees…I have been stuck on that issue for about 2hrs and now called it a night, any ideas?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotiveThank you, I just had to finesse it. Got the project done today and had started it yesterday. Without this video I would have been very lost. Thanks again, awesome video!!
@@jeffreygrullon2962 The process is pretty much the same with some minor differences. You won't have a power steering pump. The top engine mount is a different shape and some torque specs are different.
@@andreilesiuk9538 Good question. I recommend the Aisin brand. The information I have says your RDX takes the same timing kit as this MDX. I have links in the description 👍
So I neglected to mark the old belt - now the crankshaft timing mark is a little off when the camshaft marks line up after 6 revolutions (which they do). Am I in for taking the belt off and redoing it?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I installed the new tensioner, removed the pin and then hand-cranked the crankshaft. I'm resolved at the moment to removing the tensioner, rerouting the belt (more taut on the right side as I go this time) and repeating the manual cranking test. My Aisin kit says as much: ensure marks are aligned, but if not "repeat installation and tensioning procedure." 🤷
When you’re routing the new belt, don’t turn the crank to make the marks line up…. You’re supposed to keep the bolt loose on the idler bearing (above and towards the front from the crank), which allows enough play to properly line up the marks without moving the crank or cams. Once the belt is routed and the marks are lined up, you can tighten the idler bearing… this will tighten the front section of belt, then you can mount the tensioner and pull the grenade pin.
Thanks for your comment. I believe how you explained it is how the manual explains it. That's important for a new belt without marks. If you mark your belt before removal and transfer the marks to the new belt then you can install the new belt a few different ways as long as the marks line up. I leave the crank where it is and move the cam clockwise one or two teeth. Once the belt is on I move it back. Either way works if you have the marks 👍
