I replaced the rear main oil seal & carrier gasket back in 2016 on my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine & now it's leaking from around the starter motor area, it's dry as a bone on the other side so I am going to replace the crankshaft position sensor O ring this weekend. I replaced the seal without any special tools & I have also replaced the oil pan gasket before so I have had no leaks until now,I also replaced the front timing cover gasket & front crankshaft oil seal & I fitted a new Rollmaster timing chain kit while it was apart, the timing chain cover gasket was leaking which is why I had removed the timing chain cover back in 2018. I also replaced the hydraulic lifters back then which were noisy, the engine has done over 400,000 Kilometres now so about 250,000 miles !
The most successful way to reseal the rear cover is to put ac/delco rtv on the corners, put it on loosely and tighten and torque the two long bolts first to create a better seal against the oil pan gasket then torque your rear cover fasteners to 18 ft lbs of torque. If you dont have an inch pound torque wrench then mechanic tight is fine on the two lower bolts. Ive replaced these on everything from 4th gen camaros to c6 grand sport vettes.
300,000 miles that great did you ever have any problems with the afm or did you delete it i ask this because i have the 07 also that had all the afm lifters and cam taken out and put regular lifters and cam in it so it doesn't have afm no more
I’ve never had an issue with the AFM. It’s still going strong. I hear people mention that a lot, but i don’t know what the deal is and why you would want to defeat it.
I hope it is fixed because what usually starts the leaks happening is high mileage and engine wear. You have enough mileage that your rings are letting a bit of compression into the crankcase. It is called blow-by and it creates pressure in the crankcase. You did get a good price and you did at least slow the leak.I wouldn't have tackled it in my shop because an oil leak on a high mileage engine is not a warranty worthy repair. It will leak somewhere until the engine wear is addressed. You sound like a very reasonable customer though.
When he replaced the seal he said he found no movement in the crank. He said it felt solid. So hopefully I’ve got a good engine that may last another hundred grand.
$900 was a GREAT DEAL I was quote $3000 another place the most economical $1800 at the end I end up doing the job my self I should recorded the entire process.
I think I got a fair deal. In the grand scheme of things, since mine is a 2WD, all they did was drop the drive shaft and pull back the transmission. It took them a 1/2 day to do it. So I think the price is fair. Awesome on doing yours yourself. I don’t have the jacks or that many socket extensions!!!
Wasn’t easy took me 4 days to do everything I did change the oul pan gasket and also for the transmission since I was already there but to be honest if someone was willing to do it for $900 I would pay for it
This was relatively easy because on most vehicles, the engine sits in a cradle and it involves messing with the struts and everything else you can think of = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
I know that in a VT-VZ Commodore (same deal as the Pontiac GTO) which were built in Australia I can make any bet that Holden would tell you to remove the engine to replace the oil pan gasket in a 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine. There's no information which told me that I could Jack the motor up using a trolley jack & a piece of timber after removing the nuts for the engine mounts then to gradually go around with 1 metre or so lengths of 10 lmm threaded rod,nuts & washers then remove each K frame bolt individually then slot each piece of threaded rod into each hole from the engine bay side. Then fit some nuts & washers underneath so that the threaded rods can hold the K frame up, for some 100mm (4 inch) lengths of slotted tubing underneath the engine mounts then lower the engine onto the pieces of pipe once the gap between the engine mounts & the K frame is about 100 millimetres. This has allowed me to remove the oil pan without removing the engine !
Really great explanation. Thanks for sharing. Also, are you in the Carolina's (saw the plate and Tarheels front plate)....I would be interested in understanding which shop you used if you're open to sharing.
I used my friend’s shop brother-in-law’s shop. Mcclure’s Auto Service, 1518 N. Chester St, Gastonia NC. It’s not a pretty shop, so dont judge the shop, judge the work. Hope this helps.
I have the same problem every time i go inside and look on my truck chevy silverado 2012 and already change oil pan gasket and oil gasket hoses that goes too radiator and still continue leaking 🤯
If you have the rear main seal done, make sure they do a hand check on the crank to see if there’s any play on it. They said mine showed no signs of play and the new seal should work for several more years. They said if they detected play on the crank, that it was soon going to need another one and that it would be better to rebuild the engine or replace it.
