Iv always told myself I'm not gonna bother getting ista cause the installation process was insane but ended up getting a free bmw, which ended up me really needing this. Your video has helped me get everything set up. Can't thank you enough. Very properly laid out. The newer version I was able to skip some of the stuff you had done, but the rest was the same. Took me almost the entire day getting all this set up with data transfers and all
So I read through all these comments and not one place did I see anyone stick a manual oil pressure gauge to verify what was showing on the instrument cluster!
Great video! I got ISTA+ configured and it can scan my car, however ISTA-D freezes up when I try to connect it to my car. car is 2017 BMW X5 40e (F15 chassis) Can ISTA-D code F chassis cars? Do I use ISTA + to code F & G chassis?
I apply it to the sponge, spread it around on the sponge and then I massaged it onto the car. I don’t press down hard. There’s no need to, the paints already in smooth and shiney, I’m just applying a bit of protection. Also I do the stickers too. It’s tough and takes a lot of time cleaning out the edges, but it the right way to do it.
I have a 13 touring with the same issue. I've had the same idea as you. I first tried sprayed lube into and on any parts I could reach with the door still in tact, but it made little difference. So I thought that one day, I would do the same thing you just did. I am happy you made a video because now I know what do do rather than winging it.
I’ve not seen any discernible difference in range at all. I was thinking the lighter weight of the new tires means less rotational weight means improved mileage. But as I said, I’ve not seen any difference. The speedometer is not off that I can tell. Performance is the same from a handling perspective. But the real difference is the much improved ride quality and tire noise! I know this isn’t all too helpful, but it’s what I know at this point.
Thanks for the content! A Tesla service manager told me that doing this will void the power train warranty, so I’ll wait to do this at 120,000 miles…I’m at 88,000 miles on my 2022 MYP. I’ve gotten 52K miles on fronts and 31K miles on rears…yes, a lot of highway miles, but I drive it like I stole it…so much fun! Just love this car!
Sir two comments first you're missing a clamp on your intake hose from your filter box and second driving a vehicle with oil pressure problems is Monumental stupidity you should have towed it home! Stop listening to RU-vidrs
Thanks for the advice! My decision to drive it home isn’t without questioning for sure. But me and the truck have a history. A few years before this I had low oil pressure but it never triggered the light. With some research, I learned that the oil pump is mechanical and tied to the crank. So long as the crank spins, the oil pump will pump. So the research led me to the oil pickup o-ring, and that ended up resolved it. As mentioned in this video, there were zero symptoms of oil problems. I change the oil every 3000 miles, there was no oil in the engine bay, none on the ground anywhere. I checked the oil with the dipstick and it was full. So I felt it was a false positive somehow. Meaning the oil warning light came on, but it can’t be for oil starvation or being out of oil. Since the pump is mechanical, I figured it was the sensor and drove it home. Remember the oil pressure was normal at startup and for a bit and would then fall. It never started/restarted with the oil pressure light remaining on. Hope this helps explain my gambling stupidity.
I have a 2007 Yukon Denali. Just had to change the oring and it isnt easy. Its a 4x4 so its not as easy as rear wheel, had to remove a lot of stuff. The only other engine issue i have is a little oil leaking around the valve covers. I'm probably gonna swap them out for those updated covers that cause less oil loss. I'm pretty sure im gonna either need to change the fuel filter or the fuel pump soon.
First of all, great video! But I messed something up trying to get ISTA-P running. At first, everything was going well and loaded the key and it then shutdown, I restarted it and started going through the screens on your video, then eventually shut ISTA P down and now when I try to restart it I get stuck in the loop where it keeps asking for my key then shutdown, I re-open and then it asks for the key again? Any thoughts or help would be great appreciated!
I used motor medic - 8 minutes idle while the front end was on a jack. Changed oil and went back to ac delco oil filter, new sending unit, and its running like new. 40-60 lbs
Apparently there is a TSB for the p0521 code on these engines and the fix is to use AC Delco UPF48R instead of the PF48. I’ve replaced the oil pressure switch on our Tahoe and it fixed the issue for a while but then P0521 came up. Oil pressure still reads but it’s around 20 when warmed up instead of 40. So I’m gonna try this upgrade filter and hopefully it fixes the code
@@x-coastie It did thankfully. If anyone reading this is getting P0521, consider changing the oil filter to AC Delco UPF48R or equivalent Mobil 1 M1-113.
I did not. I first filled it up to the fill line. Cranked it and it immediately dropped. I filled it again to the fill line. And so and so on till it was done. Now what you’ll see is the tank is the coolant circulating in the system. You’ll see it burp and flow and burp and flow. When the car is heated and the fan turns on, put the cap on and stop. The next time to check the level is when it’s cold and then only top it off.
300,000 miles that great did you ever have any problems with the afm or did you delete it i ask this because i have the 07 also that had all the afm lifters and cam taken out and put regular lifters and cam in it so it doesn't have afm no more
I’ve never had an issue with the AFM. It’s still going strong. I hear people mention that a lot, but i don’t know what the deal is and why you would want to defeat it.
He blew it up at 70mph he didn't say what he was doing before it got to 70 lol that's always the story if you look at the logs it will be 30 lbs of boost 0 to 70 pull
This video is generally horrible, ill informed advice. The L15B motors can generally take/make up to about 280-300 HP and 300 ish TQ, on stock block internals. You can push them to about 500+ with a fully built block. It's not about the size of the engine, and that's why a tune blew it. It's all about what the tune was, and how he was driving it. I can almost guarantee you if you could look at the data right before it blew, that his K value (engine knock) was through the roof. That could be cause whoever setup the tune did a bad job and pushed the stock block too hard, it was tuned on a cold engine, or could be the kid cheaped out and put 87 octane gas in, while the tune was for 93. Either way something had to go wrong in the setup or treatment of the car for it to cause cylinder detonation to this extent. It's not that these are inherently flawed engines, that you can't safely modify. Or that they're too small to modify. Tons of people run these tuned all day long no issues. I ran my 2020 Civic Si Coupe for 3 years with no issues with just an off-the-shelf Si Phearable Tune. If some a-hole didn't smash into me from an oncoming lane, I'd still be driving it daily with no issues. Generally this is a good lesson for the kid, as long as he learns the right one...which is don't push things to the max without prepping the block/car for it to handle the power first. Don't push it past 85-90% of tolerance limits for daily drivers. And do your research...first.
Thanks for the reply, but I disagree with the video being horrible. I provided a well rounded story to include the baseline of the engine, I provided the beginning questions and my advice, and I showed the repercussions of bad decisions. Now, to your point, I agree with you that my nephew, his father, and the person who tuned are to blame. But more so my nephew. That motor was in all but two halves. And my thought is/was this and why I stand behind the video: if the tuner wasn’t setup on the car, there would almost always be zero percent chance this would have happened. At that’s the point of the video. Think twice. Thanks for the comment. I hope people will take time to read it. Good information!
@@x-coastieMy issue with the video isn't the story portion. It's the misinformed advice and conclusions you reach. If it was just telling a story and saying be careful, no problem. But your advice equates to "My friend was killed with a hammer. Don't buy or use hammers". The hammer isn't inherently dangerous, as the KTuner isn't inherently dangerous to your car. It's just a tool. What you do with it makes it either dangerous or not. KTuners are just a communication device/software to be able to re-flash your ECU with different programming. My issue is you blame the tool, not the user.
@@BigBear-- We're saying the same things and acting like there's a disagreement here. You can tell in the video that my sarcasm regarding my "Angel" nephew. It's implied that he's not an angel. I think most people will pick up on that. But just like the hammer story, if the person didn't have the hammer, would your friend still be alive? Most likely yes. So the hammer was the instrument of death, wielded by someone stupid. The K-Tuner in this case, was the instrument that caused carnage, used by someone stupid.
He ordered a car online with his parents money. Parents allowed him to slap a bunch of mods onto the car he doesn't have to pay for. Told his tuner to give him all the juice without knowing the value of a dollar or how cars work. Couldn't afford gas so he ran 87 octane on a hot ass tune for sure and blew that thing up. Parents are at fault here for letting a 15 year old run the show without knowing how life/cars/money work. 🤷
If you order a car on CarMax and it’s within a certain range, it’s a free transfer. That’s what he did. All other points you raised are great ones. This video is in part to the parents. Thanks for the comment!
Hey there! Thanks so much for the video, lots of help with such little info out there. But I do have a question as I haven’t gotten it fully operable yet. Once I downloaded and followed everything correctly, I’m not able to find the “port” section in the device manager. It just doesn’t show up
Can't afford gas, but his parents will buy him a car and throw money at him for modding it. Sounds like the kid needs a job and some lessons in what money is worth. No way was he just "cruising" to blow it like that.
ya skill issue confirmed. I have a 2018 Si and I tuned and got the race MAF with the PRL CAI it at about 35k. Its at 70k atm and absolutely 0 issues. Im 99 percent sure im pushing 22/23 lbs of boost on mine. He must have neglected maintenance or something. Or he must have beat that thing to death trying to race people and brake boosting off launch and such. It doesn't help that he was doing it on a CVT model IMO as well.
Stock Sport Touring '18 is 16 PSI max boost, so this kid added 7 PSI. That's what blew it up. Also, I have a '24 Si -- connecting rods and other engine components are beefed up on Si's to handle higher boost pressures.
L15s are not known in the honda community for holding together after throwing more boost at them. This is still way worse than most, probably a poor tune. But not the honda most would chose to build.
ngl this is absolutely a skill issue your nephew doesn't know what he's doing he blew up his car due to his own failure no need to slam ktuner they're a great company that provides an excellent tool allowing people to tune their cars easier
I wasn’t slamming them. But he blew the engine clean in half. I think you would be hard pressed to find one blown up like that without tuning software installed. But to your point, it could be the tuners fault, but I bet it was my nephew’s!
I completely agree. But if you watch other videos they leave stuff out and to me, it’s even more confusing. Mine should be thought of and press play and watch step one, press pause, do the steps on your computer. Press play again and so on till you’re done.
