Glad it helped you. I can't stress enough how important it is to make sure that vent is free on top of the differential. I've fixed a couple simply by freeing up the vent.
Hi Phillip. Thanks for the great video! I have followed all your instructions, step by step, and replaced the seal to fix the leak. I liked the way you installed the seal, pushing it inside with the clutch coil support to make sure it goes the right depth, etc. I also checked the breather valve. However, it kept leaking after my first fix, so I have done the very same job all over again. This time I have inspected the replaced seal and the part that goes into it even more carefully but haven't seen any problems. Just in case, I replaced the seal again. It didn't fix the problem, again! The leak is even worse now, but I am really tired of it. All these took a couple of weeks. Both times I bought the pinion seal from the dealership and put in new oil. The second time I even removed the breather valve and cleaned it thoroughly. I wonder if this leak could be coming from somewhere else? The second time I even put some gasoline in the inside part of the coupler thing to make sure there is no other channel for a leak. It held the gas perfectly well. This is quite puzzling. The impression is that there is no seal at all. If someone else would have that done I would think they had forgotten to install the new seal. Would you please give me a hint as to what else would cause this very same symptom? Thanks!
That's pretty interesting. I would have expected it to leak again due to a plugged vent but you say you checked that. Seal installed in the correct direction? With the garter spring towards the fluid? Any play in the pinion bearings? Can't think of anything else. Sorry.
Thank you for video. Our 08 Rav with 221,000 miles the driver rear axle started to drip. Our auto shop said about $180 for labor if not too rusty & new dealer axle pinion seal. The labor looks intense for the average Joe.
Not really sorry. I used an axle nut socket but any piece of pipe that is just shy of the outside diameter of the seal will work. I don't remember which one I used. Use the new seal as a sizing tool and ask someone who has 3/4" drive socket set. It has to be deep enough to not bottom out on the pinion shaft. A piece of pipe of the appropriate size would work. Careful not to dent the seal and be sure to pack the back side with grease so the spring does not pop out. Use the magnet retainer three allen bolts to pull the seal in the rest of the way once its flush. Don't drive it in too far as it will leak. Hope this helps...
Today I changed the bearing in the housing that you removed in this video. After I replaced the bearing, I went to reinstall the housing, and oddly, the housing has a small gap. I looked at the Toyota torque spec for the 4 bolts on that housing and they are listed at only 14 ftlb. Before I removed the housing I was able to spin the drive shaft, if I tighten those 4 bolts on the housing too much, the shaft no longer rotates, so I do believe that torque to be important. I'm hoping I didn't damage the pinion seal, because it is leaking now - and like I said there is a small gap so using the gasket maker only did so much.
@@PhillipBailey Yes, the problem (I think) is that there is corrosion in the housing that is preventing me from seating the bearing completely, this is making the entire housing (along with the rotating part inside) a mm or so longer than it should be. As a result, I can't tighten the bolts without the risk of damaging the rear because that added length is putting pressure down past the pinion seal, which I think is another bearing way in there. I was hopeful that I would be able to do the bearing replacement myself because it was only $28, but I ended up ordering the replacement viscous coupling (the housing etc) on ebay today for $400 which still beats the dealer's asking price of $3300 to do the job.. if I can get the thing back together! The bearing was totally shot and howled pretty bad. I think this is why Toyota says 'not to repair' if there is corrosion in a certain spot. See here: media.fixed-ops.com/Toy_ServiceBulletins/sb0080t13.pdf
Ok so here you go. The three 6mm bolts are 44 inch pounds, the four cap screws holding the front housing to the dif housing are 14ftlbs, the four cap screws holding the left and right brackets to the differential housing are 41ftlbs, the two large cap screws through the mounts are 63ftlbs, driveshaft nuts are 26ftlbs and the fill and drain plugs are 26ftlbs. Hope that helps. Good luck!
Hi again. I replaced my pinion seal, just as you described in your very helpful video. A day later, I saw a drip under the differential - then another. I get about a drop a day. It's possible I may have not installed the new seal correctly. I could not find a socket like you used, so I used an old bearing race of about the same diameter, and tapped on it with a light tack hammer, but I am not sure the seal went in completely straight. Also, I was not sure about the RTV seal - you mention at the end of your video to put some RTV around the perimeter, before reinstalling the outer half, which I did - but I am not sure if the RTV is meant to be more of a seal to keep stuff out, or is it an oil seal, to keep differential fluid in? I.e. does the RTV bead need to be absolutely free of gaps? Lastly, the drips are dark, black, like the fluid I removed when I drained the differential. The new fluid is amber/clear. So could it be possible that the drips are residual differential fluid from the leaking seal that remained in the outer half that is removed to access the pinion seal? I never turned it upside down, so could there be leftover fluid? Sorry for the long note.
Well a few things are possible. First it could be oid oil in the front section. If so it should stop after couple days. Second it could be the seal is leaing due to being pushed in crooked or cooked. Could also be the vent is plugged on top of the diff so its building up pressure. The rtv sealant on the housing is to keep water out not oil in. Id recommend to keep watching it and see if it stops leaking. The vent is really difficult to get to. Run the vehicle so that the diff is hot then remove the fill plug and listen for escaping air as you are removing it. There should not be any pressure inside. If so the vent is plugged up. Hope this helps...
@@PhillipBailey Thanks once again for responding so quickly! I did look at the vent when I had the differential lowered - the vent was initially stuck, but I fiddled with it and finally got it to turn freely, so hopefully that opened the vent. I will wait a couple more days and watch the drips - if it doesn't get better, I already picked up another seal, so I can go in again - this time I bought a used seal installation tool, so I should be able to install the seal straight. I will definitely listen as I open the fill plug, and If I do hear air escaping, I will order a new vent. Also, thanks for clarifying about the RTV - that's what I thought, but it's good to have confirmation.
The RTV sealant is more or less to keep debris out not seal the oil in. It is possible it's residual fluid from the original seal leak collected in the coupler. Most importantly did you clear the vent on top? Take it for a drive on the hyway for 20 min to get the dif hot and remove the fill plug. Listen for escaping pressure as you are loosening the plug. Spray some soapy water on the plug first and watch for bubbles. If its building pressure inside then the vent is plugged on top of the dif. The seal can be installed too deep as well. I put it in flush and then used the electro magnet to push it in with the small bolts. This will also ensure it is square in the housing. Hope this helps you.
Absolutely correct. I've had a couple leaking and all I did was free up the vent and it stopped leaking. Bit of a hassle to get to but pair of pliers works.
Hey on another video the guy found the seal sits a further 3 to 4 mm in the bore from the distance that magnetic housing lip pushes it in. You can see on the position it would sit on the mating surface on the inside piece of the front part. Now im hoping that once i assemble the front it will gently move the seal to the position it needs to be a further 3mm i think to seat on the outerpiece seat. Did your method work well? No issues just leaving it at 4mm?
Hi Phillip. I will be removing the viscous coupler off my rav4 again as the bearing seems to have failed. I may replace the pinion seal as well since I will already be in there. What tools did you use to remove and install that snap ring? I have not come across one like that before and I want to be prepared. Thanks!
External snap ring pliers. Here's an example: www.amazon.ca/Lisle-44900-Lock-Ring-Plier/dp/B0009OR974/ref=asc_df_B0009OR974/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292940068079&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11942263961465147746&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1002448&hvtargid=pla-569306652888&psc=1 Should be able to buy them at any auto parts store.
Be sure to check the vent on top of the dif for being plugged. If the cap on top is loose and flops around you should be fine. If its rusted in place use a pair of pliers to twist the top back and forth til its free.
@@PhillipBailey I replaced the vent a few years back when I dropped the differential out completely to replace axle seals. I will look into getting a snap ring plier like that. Thank you for the answer!
It's a little tube with a loose cap on top. Usually the dirt or mud makes the cap seal. Simply turn the cap a few times until the dirt is expelled. This is not your part but it looks like this. www.summitracing.com/parts/tgi-140057-1?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAn8nuBRCzARIsAJcdIfM26YRWTEdTMry8DAX2_4hgLMJdhftXQzT-Q2Qpd0PdteEVqd5mz-0aAmSkEALw_wcB
Any ordinary chassis grease or wheel bearing grease. Yes it may melt as you said but it will mix with the great oil and not harm anything. Glad you found the video useful.
Great video But my question. I have a 2011 Toyota RAV4 sport V6 my bearings went bad in my front transfer case and I have to replace it. and I can't find any videos on how to remove it. I'm trying to do it myself, Can I replace the front transfer case without taking out the engine and transmission?
I've never done that so I can't speak to that process. Maybe someone who has will chime in here. Visit your local library and see if you can get the information from AllData or Mitchell
Upon further investigation it appears the engine and transmission have to be removed as an assembly to remove the transfer case. Flat rate time is around 19 hours. Ouch!
Where exactly was the gear oil leaking from? Was it from the section that had the RTV silicone seal? My understanding is that area is always has oil there to provide lubrication to the clutch assembly you removed? I'm getting oil from what appears to be in the area of where the driveshaft connects to the coupling assembly but I'm failing to see how that is caused by the pinion seal since they coupling assembly is lubed by the differential oil.
The coupling assembly is not supposed to have gear oil in it. The bearing is sealed and self lubricated. If its leaing gear oil where you said then the pinion seal is leaking. Make sure to check the vent on top of the differential as they get corroded and plugged up. Its difficult to reach and has a little metal cap on it that should move freely on its tube. I'd recommend to check the vent before tearing the diff apart. Take it for a long run on the highway to warm it up and remove the diff fill plug and listen for escaping air pressure while removing the plug. Hope this helps you.
@@PhillipBailey I freed the vent. I guess I'm asking if it's possible for oil to leak from the pinion seal and travel to the front of the coupling and then leak where the driveshaft flange meets it
I have the same issue, from what I read, Toyota has updated the front radial bearing, dust deflector and added a "dust seal" to update the problematic bearing failures from 09 models. From what i can tell this seal is meant to protect the radial bearing from dust getting in and not really meant to hold back axle fluid. Older models didn't even have a seal, just a metal ring deflector protecting the bearing. Unless your radial bearing No2 has failed there is no point replacing any parts in the magnetic coupler (It can cause a lot more problems if not installed at the right depth), just replace the diaphragm oil seal seal and the vent on the differential. The Toyota spec calls to drive the seal in 7.0mm +- 0.5mm so a bit further then just using the lip on the yoke as a seal driver as in the video.
@@robertficek7586 I replaced the oil drain plug with a barbed fitting and ran hose up into the spare tire tool storage area and put a differential vent there so even if the differential vent plugs, it will have a secondary means of venting.
I was doing it on the floor and gave up and put it back together, managed to turn the vent a couple times hopefully to stop it building pressure, until I get a appointment for someone to do it. It's Marion vehicle and I even had a hard time getting the fill plug out.
@@PhillipBailey Okay thanks, just double checking.. I had the pinion seal go on my 09 Pontiac Vibe, (so same as a matrix). I replaced it when i went to check it a few weeks later it was leaking again. Trying to figure out where i went wrong. Any insight? I am thinking that the differential vent may be clogged causing a pressure buildup and thus blowing out pinion seal
The Vibe is very similar to this Toyota from what I can see. Yes a plugged vent will cause a pressure buildup and potential leak, sometimes in tapping in the seat it can be damaged ie bent or cocked contributing to a repeat leak. I'm not sure if the seal can be installed too far like this Toyota. Worn seal surface possibly too, spring popped off seal, good luck.
As I mentioned in the video I didn't have the actual seal driver and made due with an axle nut socket. A short piece of pipe would work as well. Be careful not to damage it taping it in and push it in the final distance with the magnetic clutch support and the four Allen bolts. HTH good luck.
Make sure if you get a socket for this that it is deep enough. I picked up a 1-3/4" Socket, but it wasn't deep enough - it bottomed out on the pinion shaft. I ended up using an old bearing race, and tapped around the circumference to drive the seal evenly.
@@PhillipBailey thanks. Got it shortly after I sent that message. Got the seal replaced and put back together. Thanks for making the video. Made the job a lot easier.
