Saw my pinion leaking a bit yesterday and my heart sank because for some reason thought the diff had to come out to access the seal. Your (hiliarious) video proved this is not the case. Thanks man! Oh and thank you for sharing ucka duckas as a unit of torque 🤣🤣
I appreciate you taking the time to do this. I always use RU-vid to preview my projects. You made this seem so plain and direct and did a great job of making me understand what I need to do. Also, being a professional photographer, I truly appreciate the fantastic quality of your camera and audio for this.
Badass, brother. really appreciate your taking the time to make this video.well filmed, straight to the point, easy to understand. would welcome any more on same rig.
Thank you for the kind words man. Good news...or just news I guess really. We have finished moving out west and we will be all setup by October and we plan to do several more of these to include rewinding old Toyota seatbelts. 😉
We’ve been there, somewhere between flagstaff and Amarillo in a sweet barn find 83 Hilux that I thought would be good to go... we used as much gear oil on that trip as we did gas.
Thank you for doing this video. This is an excellent video demonstration! Great videography and audio. Very simple and very well done. Very informative. One question, while turning the driveshaft why was the rear wheel NOT spinning?
Great video thanks. I have a 2019 Tacoma TRD Off road. I damaged the dust cover which I believe was the cause of my seal leaking. I went to Toyota today for my first service and had them look at the pinion seal. They confirmed that it needed a new companion flange and a seal. Which I figured. They wanted to charge me 165.00 for a new companion flange , 20.00 for the seal. And 488.00 for labor. I told them no thanks I’ll do it myself. I got the drive shaft separated from the companion flange today. Those four bolts on the flame are pressed in. There was enough play in the slip joint in the drive shaft, where I was able to pull the shaft forward and it came right off the very flange bolts.
Great job doing it! And for making the video but you should let the people know you must keep your driveline marked up and that there is a specific torque you need on that flange or you will crush the part behind that and need a diff rebuild if you do that
That’s not how the crush sleeve works, if you’ve installed one you know the pain I’m referring to. If you do it like I do in the video and set the lock nut you will not re-crush the crush sleeve.
I just did this job on a 3rd Gen 4runner and the factory service manual discusses getting the pinion bearing preload accurate based off how tight you tighten that companion flange nut. You just went to town with your impact gun so how do you know if you got the proper preload? In our particular application, we reused the old nut and just tightened it up to where it was before (The indented part of the nut lined up with the notch in the shaft), we re-staked the nut and called it good hoping the original preload was accurate. Just curious because I'm wondering if we should have checked for the proper preload before putting the driveshaft back on.
Have you have ever set gears and crushed the pre-load crush sleeve? Crushing the pre-load sleeve is a PITA an takes way more than 80lbs the electric impact was set to. You don't need to worry about crushing the sleeve and messing up your mesh with the ring gear on something this simple. I understand your concern, but in this case it's just experience from 20 years of Toyota outfitting.
@@ToyotasInc I have never set gears and crushed the pre-load crush sleeve to set the pinion bearing pre-load. Sounds like I really would have had to try to screw this up. Thanks for sharing your experience with us.
It's nearly impossible to get any descent help from a garage these days feels like Russian roulette at times. Then I come across a video like this and it's like thank god. Shady garages and all there scams are becoming a thing of the past with vids like this! Prob saved me huge bucks. Two "mechanics" I went to today said "sounds like you have been watching RU-vid" lmao yea I have cause nobody seems to wanna do a god damn thing around here haha JC FML!
Thanks for the video! It's great. Well put together and easy to follow and most of all gave me the confidence to do it myself. Is the procedure the same on the front diff as well? I have an old land cruiser and there is oil dripping off my drive shaft uni joint where it joins into the front diff so the seal must be shot in there.
This is a 14+min video. Toyota said it's a 5+hrs job, over $600CAD. Transmission shop said it's a 5+hrs job, over $500CAD. Wtf? I'm going to try myself. Thanks for the great video.
The Truth , I knew it leaked a bit, went on long trip towing a light travel trailer. Up big hills and whatnot. Came back, was leaking more. Mechanic said it was bad. Tg i didn't have probs.
Hi, Thank you for your help, please can you advise me if I need special tool to remove and then to put it back for Hilux 2017? The process its similar like yours? I have the same issue like yours leaking oil in the same place. Have my thanks for your help!
I run those same tires on my 97 T100 xtcab 4x4...I could Not get that dang.nut loose today!! I pressed pulled pushed and nada! No impact available so, any other suggestions?
I’m sure I’m far too late to help you since I’m 6 months late to the game. sometimes you have to drill out the retaining notch bit on the nut to get her to let go of her purse. I sure hope you haven’t been waiting under your truck this who time for a response, I would feel pretty bad. 😳
You will not ever have zero play due to the rather large tolerances in gear and chain drives. Replacing the seal will not address rotational play, it will only stop a leak. If your pinion moves in any other direction, even slightly, you may need a new master gear install kit with new pinion bearings and crush sleeve.
Thanks dude ya I'm just a shade tree tinker on my own shit kinda girl so ya I don't have a seal puller but I have a screw driver so thanks dude it was leaking big time so I figured I must of mest up the seal pretty bad when li change the pinione gear and when I put the flange back in it leaked so thanks alot this time I'll do it right thanks again your video was very simple and it helped me
This is not an easy question to answer...well, it is, the answer is 140lb ft/lbs. But it’s not as scary as it sounds. The book calls for over 145-250 foot pounds (best recollection) but if you’ve done this a few times you quit worrying about the crush sleeve lol. That sleeve is not easy to crush, so if you are not tightening it with a breaker bar or Mjölnir it’s not likely you are going to crush it. This old turd has so many miles I’m not too concerned with the preload being wonky, I’m just happy she is still rolling down the road with her original gear set.
@@ToyotasInc cool thank you. I have a 60 series land cruiser. İ need to change seal. İ read some stuff about the preload so i was just wondering about your take on it.
@@anonymousbyproxy8250 i did this last year on my land cruiser. Really needed a monster torque to crush it. My cordless impact couldn't do it. I'd say definitely more than 90 but it is really easy to over tighten it once it starts crushing so gotta be careful and know when to stop hitting with the impact. it is probably worth mentioning that land cruiser diff components are probably bigger and more heavy duty than 4runner.
It is the exact same procedure but a different part number. The Tundra uses up to a 10.25 ring gear so you may need to know your ring gear size to order the seal..
Not at all, with a bazillion miles on the clock I’d be chasing play all the way from the diff to the input on the transfer case. She’s doin’ great though several years later.
Quick question. I really dig this video. But what I'm trying to find is one to replace the diff cover gasket. My front diff cover on my SAS 86 4R is leaking. Do you have one for it? (I'm new to working on the old yotas. TIA)
