Thanks for the tip to "connect the brown wire to the ground" (starting at 1:33) that helps me make sure the actuator of the latch is still working and not the cause of the issue!
Hi. My car is a 2010 nissan tiida saloon. with mine yesterday the key would not fit in when I press the button on boot it unlocks and locks at the same time any advice?
added an ON/OFF switch ($5) to Hatch panel to LOCK/UNLOCKED Hatch. Ground attached to one side of switch, other side attached to the BLUE wire going to Hatch button.
What I did was ground the wire so it connects to the metal on the locking mechanism. This way you can access it through the square opened hole (this is the hole you pop off the assembly first that enables you to manually pop the trunk from the inside). I then used a rare earth magnet to keep it live and in contact to the ground when I want it open, when I want to lock it I remove the magnet and let the wire loose. Although it’s definitely hodgepodge when you are in a shady part of town or something you can lock it by removing the magnet. To open again a, you’ll have to open manually and place the magnet to run the wire to the ground again. Gives you the option without having to change the actuator in the passenger door to get back to ‘normal’-ish and works for me as I’m not in shady places too often. I hopes this helps someone🙏God bless 💗
@@dalenix7255not always, but usually it is a failed microswitch in the right front door lock actuator which provides ground to the hatch actuator when you press the hatch release button on the handle. Replace the RF actuator assembly to repair.
added an ON/OFF switch ($5) to Hatch panel to LOCK/UNLOCKED Hatch. Ground attached to one side of switch, other side attached to the BLUE wire going to Hatch button.
