Hey Lee, this is why I love RU-vid, it's the gift that keeps on giving. You did this video in 2020 and it just helped me now. I suddenly had this problem with an auction car I bought. Got a new battery and then one morning it was dead again. I knew I had a drain but was racking my brain trying to figure it out. 1.9A while resting then removed the same SA1 bus and BOOM! So instead of just starting replacing them randomly I think since the driver's rear doesn't seem to react right I'll disconnect that one first and then retest. Thanks for the video. I might shoot one of my own and give you credit for the information.
Video is correct. The VW Passat CC has 4 x door modules. When I say module it has a motor which has attached a PCB module. The Master is the drivers door with other feeding to that. - see link. A tell tale sign is if you LOCK, then UNLOCK the car and leave it, after a minute or so the windows will go to top limit (clearly audible), then after couple more minutes the car will AUTO lock, sometimes longer., If they do NOT auto lock, there will be current drain as the CAN modules will NOT go to sleep. Of course there are other issue like draining to ground from bad earth, alternator drain (bad diode), but what I am talking about here is the MASTER cannot put the CAN system sleep because of the slave motors. If you place a current clamp on the RED wire going to the main fuse box as shown in video and you have over 0.3 to 0.5amps AFTER the minutes have elapsed once car is LOCKED or AUTO locked , then car CAN has not powered down. Generally if powered down should be 0.20 or even lower in my experience. See wiring schematic of whole car in link. Cant guarantee how long the link is active- not mine. See page 96 of PDF. www.dropbox.com/s/c2knfvyz2debjep/Wiring Diagram.pdf?dl=1 Cheers Danny
This makes sense! No one wants to listen to me. I have the 2009 Volkswagen Passat CC, 2.0, My rear passenger back door is completely dead. Car dies every week. Had everything tested, says everything is fine. Before i saw this video, I kept telling them that the door maybe draining that battery because it works sometimes then it doesn't. It will show door oen but it is not. Volkswagen thinks I'm bringing it in for them to tell me this! I'm going to order part and try this.
@TeeMcCallum Hey can you please tell me what was the result? Were you able to fix the issue after replacing the module? Can you please share this experience with us thanks.
Had a mechanic look at it, he did something, could not tell me what he did, it worked for a few weeks, out again. I'm still trying to trouble shoot it, but I had a machine say it was the window control module
OMG! I’ve taken my car to 4 mechanics!!!! What kind of mechanic are you? No one can fix my car… my back door won’t lock anymore either… replaced my battery… not the alternator… car dies every day
Ah dude, you're car might have a problem with the trunk latch module, it's a module that oversees the trunk latch, if it thinks your trunk is open it will stay awake and kill your battery
@@ariesmcdaniel4442 that's probably a whole different problem unrelated to the trunk lid, but it could also be pointing to something that connects them both, I would need to see a wiring diagram of both modules for common grounds or a common source of power.
@@ariesmcdaniel4442 My daughters 2010 VW Passat is having the same issue as you. Back door does not lock. We had to lock it manually by uncovering key from side of the inside of door and looking it with fob key. Her battery keeps draining as well. Alternator good, checked all fuses and brand new battery. Can not figure out what is going on. Feel we have to take it to VW, not looking forward to the bill!! :( If anyone can help, please help!!
I have 2009 CC, audible electrical drain with engine off. Replaced battery, alternator tests fine, checked the fuses and they all seem fine, ironically back right door controls do not work - wonder if same fix needed?
Is this a 10 CC cause I have the same exact problem I just bought one this week replace the battery and it’s still draining every day. They have that door replacement that you showed in the trunk and the dealer said that it needed replacing so I hope that’s my problem as well. replaced so I hope that’s the problem with mine
Just got a 2010 vw cc komfort drive and same issue but I took the driver front window motor out and the next day it would crank, order a new one and it still has the issue, unplugged the new one and it still wouldn’t crank!!!
Either a localized connector/cabling related issue because it started working after you had it out OR it was just coincidence that it started working and is maybe a temperature related issue..!! Temperature related problems can be in wiring, connectors, or circuit board solder points..!! Either way it is still an electrical problem, which, can be extremely frustrating..!!
Same problem. Back left door no power. I replaced the locking module. Still nothing. I can here a click in the electronics every few seconds. Im guessing the car is trying to do something electronically but the control module isnt letting it and maybe thats why its draining the battery. My next thing is to go and replace the control module. I disconnected the control module and the clicking sound is gone away. I disconnected it to see hopeffully it might stop draining the battery while i get the part. In the meantime ive put the door back together. I also turned the lock on the side of the door to keep it locked from the outside because its not doing it by key. The child lock was also on. Now i cant open the door at all. What do i do?
I have the draining battery disease. 2009 VW CC 2.0 I know my door/widow control terminal...switch blocks have been rain damaged. My next move is disconnect them on a stretch of nice days so I can lv the windows down an inch or so. See if battery stops running down.
My Volkswagen Corrado SLC has had the worst parasitic draw ever from the window control module driver side. It’s been an absolute nightmare they say that the brown wire with the white stripe keeps the relay switch on any suggestions of how to fix it? I believe there’s a flaw in the design some say even swapping it out doesn’t work either.
Had a glass company change my passenger window. My first drive the next day I had to get towed home because the battery died. I checked the battery when I got home and it was 10 volts. I removed the power window fuse and charged the battery and it drained again. ?????
