The only headache i had with the OE relay package is NO wiring diagrams! You saved the day with your precise explantion of where each wire goes. From the relay to it's final destination! Also kudos to your camera man, I was able to follow every pointing finger, to every wire, to every connection. Thanks.
Great video. If you have this kit (dealer wouldn't sell me the recall kit for a Town and Country), the wire colors don't match up. If you use the numbers on your relay, the wiring is as follows: 30 to the B+ post, 85 to the brown wire, 87 to the Blue/Orange wire, and 86 spliced into the Pink/Green wire. The dealer kits put an inline fuse on the B+ post (30 wire). It was a cheap addition from Napa, probably worth it just in case.
Well done video Sir! Especially for showing which wires are the coil side wires. I'm going to use a relay of my own since dealer has kits on backorder. Shame on Chrystler for recognizing a problem and manufacturing only a few parts to fix a problem that is a recall for select vehicles only with the exact same issue. My dealer told me they could get me one in 4 months!
Thank you very much for this video. I looked for about a week to find someone actually describing the same problem I was having, then came across your fix. I got this same part (Not mopar though) from rockauto for $18 delivered. I was already changing the oil and transmission fluid when this arrived. Very quick and easy fix thanks to you!
You are still helping people my friend. 2012 T&C, intermittent crank no start. Local mechanic felt sure it would be the fuel pump. I know it’s not always this simple, but fuel pump works or it don’t kinda experience. The part number has changed, but this part number told the parts dept at dealership, exactly what I needed. Same kit. Here is why I just subscribed to your channel. There may be another video on RU-vid that someone explains the change in colors in the relay wires. I pulled up the pdf of the repair bulletin, not my wheel house, and made no sense to me. Sure I could have figured out which wire they were using for 12V, and work backwards, ridiculously not fun. Yours was one of the first vids I saw, and kept open. I can say that I echo every positive comment here. The part that might help someone else… picked up the kit Saturday, installed yesterday with you on my iPad the whole time. Good soldering and heat shrinks, it’s getting dark, working in driveway. I lock everything down, battery etc. I get in and the first thing I noticed was as that the window wasn’t going down, then I turned on the radio, nada. Crank and no start. This is when it sinks in I may have just friend $60, they are proud of them now LOL. Key out, and immediately disconnect battery. I thought that for sure I used a wrong wire or connector. You and me went back to the driveway earlier today. Pulled battery, tipm and unplugged connectors. I was also thinking I may have fouled up the pin you pull from brown connector. So I checked that and felt good that it was in place. Watch the video again, making sure I used the correct wires. I had! Cool. And then, there you go being all smart ;) and talk about locking in the brown connector. I kinda remember that being easy to take out. So I followed you reconnection sequence. It felt foreign to me, when I double checked to make sure each connector was “locked” in. Set things in place and set battery in and connected. I went and sat in the seat, put the key fob in… Chrysler connect logo pops up on radio. Windows works. Now my wife is watching, it’s her van. Turned the fob and it started befit you could say it had cranked. Rinse and repeat a few times. My wife is laughing hysterically from joy that it was fixed. Thanks to following your instructions yesterday, it was an engineer error on this end. I was hoping if I shared the symptoms of the unlocked connector, I think it was the brown with the black back cover, it might help someone like me that works a little too fast sometimes. Thank you for taking the time to do this three years ago, and thank you for it still being available. Your effort is extremely appreciated. Papa Wolf CWK9R
Great video, thank you. Having the color codes was great, along with describing how to get the clips off and so forth. I bought the relay myself and was able to fix it for about $10 total. One comment though - the signal wires doesn't matter for polarity since it's just for creating the electromagnet to pull the relay switch. The power (Thicker) wires also don't matter since all the relay does is connect them. In other words either blue wire works, and either green works. I also included a blade style fuse to connect to the positive terminal. In my owner's manual, the factory fuel pump is listed as having a 25 amp fuse.
Very informative video and exactly what we needed. I appreciate your leg work finding out where the wires go from the relay connector. Saved us from installing a fuel pump for $385. Van started right up. Thank you
Yves Joseph does your vehicle start when you apply battery voltage to the fuel pump fuse? If it does, then perhaps the TIPM. If not, then the issue is somewhere else
Yves Joseph not sure what to make of that. Did that procedure work before you installed the bypass relay. Are there any codes being set. Sounds like perhaps a code is preventing the vehicle from starting and removing battery is clearing code allowing the ECM to start the vehicle
Spot on. I never leave comments. Great job. You should be an instructor. I'm going to try the fuse wire bypass trick 1st. Then find the time to replace the relay.
I'm having the issue that it doesn't start,but if I put starting fluid it starts and keeps running fine till I shut it off...its that the relay issue Great video by the way
I have personally not seen one do that I would not think that it would be an issue with the tipm if it stays running after you take away the starting fluid
Subscribed and liked since this was so incredibly helpful. Electrical gremlins are my nemesis and you really did this in an easily followable way. Preciatecha for reals!
Great job and video. Just got done with a 2012 Chrysler Town and Country. I just wonder about how many of these Vans are driving around with that bypass cable they sell online which is kind of a liability.
Thank you so much for this video. You are simply the best. I wished I saw your video two years ago. PLS, I HAVE A QUESTION. My 2011 dodge caravan crew had the same issue, but I did the bypass ontop of the fuse using the power outlet fuse, these kept my power outlet one continuously and the van worked well for more than two years. Last weeks ago the van stopped. I notice the cable melted. Now it wouldn't start, when you turn the key nob, the dashboard lights come on and off, wipe starts moving on it own, the lights in the car come on and off and the fuse box makes some sparking sounds. PLS, ANY IDEA WHAT IS GOING ON WITH THE TIPM??????
Is this the same procedure for a town & Country 2010? My problem is the fuel gauge doesn’t work but my fuel pump runs good, I replaced the fuel pump and made a tests on the cluster all works good but the gauge didn’t, think my problem is the TIPM module, if I do this repair the gauge works as well?
I followed your instructions and all went great except, now I have the traction control light on. I'm guessing its in one of the plugs that I disconnected. do you have any idea which one it could be? I did remove and check all connections again but everything looks good. any help you can give me would be great
I triple checked. Every thing is color correct. Im guessing i may have loosened or broken a wire on another plug connector. Im going to be taking it all apart again tomorrow. It could be a wire on a plug connector that i didn't disconnect. I wad hoping you might know which plug carries the wiring for the traction control so it may shorten the time ill need to find and repair. Thank you for your help. Your video was helpful and worked great. Its just an unfortunate thing that this happened
You can go to O'Reilly's, AutoZone or online and purchase a inline fuse holder Sometimes they come with a good amount of wire so you'd have to trim the wire down and make sure it's the same gauge and just solder it in on the hot wire
I have a 2011 chrysler town and country. I just passed 116k miles. I am having a problem with starting. It will turn over just fine but will not fire. The only way I can get it to fire is with starting fluid. Once running it runs as normal. It will start fine when its warm just not when its cold. Does this sound like the problem you diagnosed in the video? Any would be appreciated.
I have seen a similar issue before last time I saw it the actual module had to be replaced but it would not hurt to try using a jumper wire first to see if that fixes the issue. I've had two other vehicles have that similar issue as well and not because by the tip of module it was caused by ignition system on the dash where the customer had to have the ignition and Keys replaced
This is a safer way and less of a chance of messing something up because if something is messed up in there and you're forcing power to what's messed up it could fry something because I have seen that happen also
hi, do u think it be the same thing for the 2016 town and country.. just last weekend..3/16/19 it started to have a hard time starting up and sometimes nothing at all at the turn of the key. it would just turn and turn & turn and then it would start after about 3 tries and today I put a bottle of heet in after I got gas in it and i will see if it has any change in the morning, its 11pm tonight. but why not just change the fuel filter and fuel pump instead of cutting wires.
Hi not having a starting problem the problem we have we would be driving around for 2 to 3 weeks while driving it shuts down without any warning we wait 10 to 15 mins and it starts without any problems never know when it’s going to happen again very unreliable
I would assume that it's still might be a similar issue I don't think I've directly ran into that before but it might be related to the TIPM like if the relays start to get hot or overheat they disconnect
is this the same wiring schematic for the 2013 Town and Country, I am having the same issue, already replaced the Throttle Control because I got the red lighting bolt light. This did not fix the issue and now I am sure its the relay. Just want to make sure the wiring is the same.
My 2013 T&C sometimes won't start, starter turns over and likes to stay engaged sometimes when key is in run position. Disconnecting the battery and then reconnecting does help starting. Also there seems to be something draining the battery every now and then.
@@Aspire2Cycle i don't think this would be the same issue it almost sounds like a starter issue and you will hafto do a test and find where the voltage draw is if the battery is geting drained
@@autotailor819 Thanks for the reply. Starter works great. It has to be fuel relay. When battery charged 100%the van starts fine. This problem has been getting worst the last few years. Ordered a bypass kit, think that will do it.
Hi! Will this fix my issue with vw routan aka Chrysler t&c? It has intermittent start problem and dealer changed fuel pump. Now dealer is telling me its the whole tipm. They are charging me $2k with no tax.
If you are having an issue with starting more than likely it is the tipm module I've replaced quite a few of them but I've also replace the win module for a no-start also you need to determine which one it is that is causing the issue if the dealership has looked at it and said is the tipm more than likely it is you can try using a jumper wire first
Taylor Rector it said here from vw tech background “check voltage at fuse 25 when the engine will not start. If no voltage is present, replace the Totally Integrated Power Module.” Most likely its the TIPM and they replaced fuel pump as well
@@juliusmadridejos4018 I used to work for VW and a lot of the times we would use some starting fluid and see if the car would try and start the car would run off the starting fluid that would be another way of testing it but I'm not a hundred percent sure on which fuse it was off the top of my head
Taylor Rector anyways its worth the try. My extended warranty wont cover tipm so basically im on my own. Ill ask my neighbor to help me up on this coz he is a Toyota senior mechanic and worked with BMW and Ford before.
Any one has a issue with there dodge grand caravan shuting down won't restart till unhook the battery cable then runs good for a few days and does it again
Hi i have the same problem with my 2013 Dodge grand caravan it will crank and turnover but not start mostly in the mornings takes couple of kicks to start i have changed the fuel pump and had a tune up but same problem no engine light or obd codes on the dash .so what would be the problem or could it be the crankshaft problem Please let me know thanks.
Essentially they all use pretty much the same system it could be that the tipm module is starting to go bad they're very common issue and it's also an easy fix if you're doing it this way you can also use a jumper wire and jump across to another relay or another fused spot to see if it does it anymore
Taylor Rector plz get back with me. I know it’s Memorial Day but I’m in a situation & I need your help getting out of it. I think I’m having the same issue with my car
Hey Taylor, have you checked out the video of the guy who had created the TIPM. If not here's the link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HcV5oAF1hM0.html ... I enjoyed watching your video & it was very informative. Keep the videos coming.
