Mike, I appreciate you making this video. I say that with all sincerity. The rubber washers sticking to the cowl or engine cover alone was worth watching and saved me time and possibly ripping them or losing them. The explanation of the plugs having crush washers reducing the chance of over torquing them and the care of removing the plug coils was also very helpful. To continue, stating that the rubber hoses can be flexed and moved gave me confidence installing the rear plugs. I just have to say that the rear plug removal and install was not easy whatsoever. You would be helping so many people if you detailed the rear spark plug removal. I speak from the experience of owning an Infiniti QX4 where one plug is hidden deep in the rear near the firewall requiring one to lay on top of the engine to reach and remove. I ask that you take this video and add actual footage of the challenges and tricks for removing the rear plugs. It took me 1.5 hours and my hands and arms are not that big and I am of regular build. I should have taken note of the wrench lengths needed to reach each rear plug. I changed mine at 47,000 miles and brushed on a light coat of anti-seize. None of the plugs I removed were gapped at .44 so I am glad I performed this service. Thanks for your assistance!
Alexander Stavros thank you for the feedback. I completely understamd where you are coming from as the plugs were not the easiest to get out, and I probably got lucky with my choice of extensions. I suppose that I am also coming from a different perspective, having worked on the different cars I have dealt with. Not saying I am better or anything... The QX4 is a beast, as is a Hemi Durango / Aspen. I think one of the worst would be a Mitsubishi Montero, where you have to remove the top of the intake manifold to even get to the plugs.
Very useful video! Nice tip about the grommets in the engine cover. I didn't think I could do the spark plugs in the back given that you can't see them, but you made me feel confident I could do it. Thanks!
Great video. The rear cylinder bank was intimidating, but after 'training' on the front bank, it's easy to do by feel. I used a 5" extension for most of the plugs. I used two 3" on the front driver's side (hood latch in way) and a 6" for passenger rear to get the socket wrench in just the right spot between the heater hoses.
did the swap this morning thanks to this video. agree, key is appropriate extensions. a medium length extension attached to a magnetic spark plug socket worked best for most of the plugs but also had a regular spark plug socket i think for one of the front ones where some of the frame. going by feel for the back ones wasn't as hard as i thought. i put on antifreeze. with only 50k miles i had a ton of that rusty corrosion on all my plugs
I just did it by feel mostly. Not sure if it makes sense, but I used the front of the engine as a guide, and visualized what I was doing based on the feel of it. I had a little difficulty with interference from some hoses and the firewall, but nothing too bad. If you have small extensions, you can put the socket in the spark plug hole, then put the extension on, feed it further down the hole, and clip the next extension in place.
Great instructional video. Helped me changed the plugs on my ‘13 with 114k miles. Had to buy a breaker bar to remove the old plugs since they were pretty stuck. The rear left was a pain to get out. I bought the iridium OEM plugs from Rock Auto and used anti-seize.
My plugs were really tight...almost broke my knuckles few times, and still came away with few scratches. I had to use the breaker bar to get the sucker to turn. Warning, turn very slowly to get it to move. You don't want to break anything in there. Hard to get any leverage. I changed mine at 70K, but I agree, should be changed out at 50k...or as soon as you bring home the vehicle, remove plugs and add some anti seizing paste on it. (also applies to break rotor screws, if you are DYIer)
I can already tell by looking at the old spark plugs this video, specifically the one that came out of cyl #3...this car has faulty piston rings. 08-13 Honda 3.5 V6 engines are notorious for this. There is actually a class action lawsuit against Honda for this issue.
Yup, I had it on my 2012 Honda Odyssey. I got my spark plugs changed and the issue as gone for about 6 months and then came back. Taking into the dealer they told me it was the piston rings. Good thing there is a recall on them and the rings were replaced for free. BTW, the issue I was experiencing was engine weakness and vibration.
@@ahmadawadallah5321 Had the same issue with our '13 Odyssey and had it fixed with that same recall. Now we're seeing oil blow-by again and I'm learning that it very well may be the VCM system on the engine. There's a decent chance that Honda is blaming those piston rings but it's really VCM causing pressure issues in the cylinders it shuts off (1-3) leading to piston ring failure among other problems. Check out VCMuzzler.
It is a 5/8 deep well. I bought the magnetic one from Autozone. There are only two sizes of spark plug socket that I am aware of. 5/8 which is about the size of an index finger, and 13/16 which is more like a thumb. Hope that helps!
Hi mike thanks you for that video ....I change the spark plugs....and clean the engine injecter ....but when the engine is in eco mode there is a vibration.....is there any ideas about what may cause that ....you help will be a big useful
If the #2 & #3 are fouled you may have an oil leak from the piston rings. Its a known Honda problem. Check for the class action lawsuit settlement. Do your research and get a VCM Muzzler to prevent further serious maintenance problems.
Great video. I was about to do due to error code P0303. But after testing cylinder 3 by disconnecting and running engine got worse for any unplugged coil/cylinder. After some more googling I found out that there's a class action lawsuit for this year model. Maybe that's why ur plugs seem to ge bad at 50k. Something to check into. Again great video.
Dealer ended up updating software and replacing piston rings and spark plugs on 3 cylinders(plus fluids). There is a 2 step process. 2011 models have only the last step (worst case scenario) or 1 step process, which mine fell under. So, all seems fine now. I had to go to a different dealership to get a free loaner, the first dealership didn't have loaners and were sending me to a rental company at my expense.
Dang good video man. Did you need mirrors for the rear 3? I have a 2012 Odyssey that needs spark plug replacement and won't pay the dealership the ridiculous amount they want. Your video gives me confidence I can do it!
No need for mirror, but it would help. I suggest that you get the front 3 replaced first, so you have a good feel of how tight everything is. older generation used a bold to hold down the coil, but this gen uses the nut. Make sure to remove it slowly so that you don't accidentally drop it, especially for the rear one.
If you have oil on the porcelain part of the plug it could be seals, but if the porcelain is clean and you see ashy deposits on the electrode then its probably coming in from the combustion side. These engines tend to burn a lot of oil so I'd say its probably the later.
I use it every time, turn the plugs until they touch the head and then go an additional quarter turn. Never had a problem. The aluminum heads will start to corrode if there is nothing on the threads, then you will be in worse shape trying to get them out. Not a problem with older plugs that don't last as long, but these new style, especially the iridiums, have a much longer service life which exacerbates the corrosion problem.
@MattThorp so you push the connecter into the coil pack, pinch the tab at the end of the connecter where the wires go into it, then pull it away and off. Should be a smoothe and easy process. The connecter may naturally have some tension on the button which is why you need to push the connector in to the coil pack. Hope that helps.
Looks like the ones in their before were the NGK TT plugs. How are the Autolite plugs doing? Any miss fires or throttle issues or bad acceleration? Have to change mine on my 07'.
All it does is make it easier to remove next time you have to change them. I *think* they are concerned that the anti seize will act as a lubricant and mess up torque readings, but with these you don't use a torque value so it doesn't really matter.
Jesus H Medrano I would not replace them at this time. They wear with use, not necessarily time. The only concern I would have is with the plugs getting difficult to remove because they will oxidize in place. A drop of oil or anti-seize would be prudent in my opinion, but at your current rate you will not need to change the plugs until like 2030 anyway.
I wish I had watched this video earlier than today. Our 2014 Odyssey began misfiring last night at 53K miles. I drove it (slowly) to the dealership today to get it checked out. It was missing so bad and the check engine light was flashing, so I did not want to drive over 30 mph I was expecting it to be a coil pack. Instead they said I need new plugs. At $20 per plug plus labor it is going to be around $450. What a ripoff. I will replace these myself after the next 40K miles and be done with it.
aci hawaii ooooh ok. You are not even to the plug yet... You just need to pull it towards the back and up, use your second hand to push the AC lines back to weasel it out. It is not super difficult, just don't bend the ac lines
Left loosey. You'll need long and strong fingers, or some tools. I'd recommend a ratchet with extensions. If you don't have those tools, you can ask your boyfriend to do it for you.
I would really encourage you to follow the manufacturer's recommend service interval at least (60k) I chose to do mine at 50k, I think with the oil the 3.5 tends to burn it helps to keep it running as best as possible.
I have sometimes difficulty to start also when in economy it make a vibrating sound in the car ....do you think is the spark plugs that are making those kind of problems Thank you very much sir
obadiah7771 NGK has a special plating on their plugs that is supposed to act as a lubricant. Their concern is that the reduced effort of anti seize and their proprietary plating will make it easier to accidentally strip the threads or break the spark plug. As you could see from my plugs, after 4 years and nearly 60k miles, they were beginning to seize in to the cylinder heads. I still do it, but that is me. If you choose not to, just understand that whatever dookie is in the cylinder head threads will act as an abrasive against the new plugs.
aci I thought the same thing ... how am I possibly going to get at the back plugs but really it was easier access for my tools and pulling out the coil than in the front. In front I ran into difficulty with the middle and far right plugs because of space, but the back provided plenty of access. Thanks Mike very helpful ... although for me it was an hour and a half job.
aci hawaii try using a longer ratchet or a breaker bar. Make sure you maintain a 90 degree angle from the spark plug surface so you don't damage the old spark plug or tube. I will use one hand at the end of the breaker bar, one hand to stabilize the head of it. Use your shoulders.
I thought the very essence of making this tutorial is to show completely 100% the how-tos. I did not find it here. Sorry, I just wasted nine minutes of my precious life
