You can find how to add external cooler here: • Installing transmissio... If you like this video please support with purchasing parts below: Oil used: amzn.to/2HPOHcj
Some notes to this excellent video: Bulletin No: 05-001/16 Last Issued: 01/25/2016 Subject: CORRECT APPLICATION FOR ATF M-V (TYPE M5), MERCON(R)V, MERCON(R)LV, AND JWS3309 (T-IV) AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUIDS BULLETIN NOTE * ^ This bulletin supersedes the previous bulletins 05-002/13 issued on 3/11/13 and 3/4/13, 05-002/11 issued on 02/23/11 and 05-005/08 issued on 04/11/08. The APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS, DESCRIPTION, and AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID SERVICE APPLICATION have been revised. ^ Changes are noted below in Red beside the change bar or by asterisks.* APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS DESCRIPTION Always be sure to use the correct automatic transmission fluid when replacing ATF. Using the wrong ATF may cause shift quality complaints or may even damage the transmission. NOTE : ^ATF M-V (TYPE M5) IS NOT THE SAME FLUID AS MERCON(R)V OR MERCON(R)LV ATF. ^ATF M-V (TYPE M5) HAS A GREATER VISCOSITY THAN MERCON(R)V AND MERCON(R)LV ATF IN LOW TEMPERATURES. ^ATF M-V (TYPE M5) HAS A GREATER ANTI-JUDDER SPECIFICATION THAN MERCON(R)V AND MERCON(R)LV ATF. ^ TRANSMISSION FLUID FLUSHING SHOULD ONLY BE PERFORMED WHEN INSTRUCTED BY THE WORKSHOP MANUAL OR ANY OTHER MAZDA PUBLICATION. CAUTION : ^ USING ATF OTHER THAN ATF M-V (TYPE M5) IN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS DESIGNED TO USE ATF M-V (TYPE M5) MAY CAUSE SHIFT QUALITY COMPLAINTS. ------------------- ATF type Mazda Genuine ATF M-V Capacity (approx. quantity) Draining ATF from drain plug: 3.0 L {3.2 US qt, 2.4 lmp qt} Overhauling ATX: 5.0 L {5.3 US qt, 4.4 lmp qt} The full amount of ATF for the ATX is as follows Capacity (approx. quantity) 8.14 L {8.60 US qt, 7.16 lmp qt}of 2
I was thinking of doing trans service myself vs taking it to a transmissions service station. But it looks easy and I see why you would put a spin on filter. It is easier and more cost effective. Beside that Brand of filter is a good brand. Thanks mazda buddy
a really nice job here of showing how it's done. You've made it very accessible, which is great. a few comments to add on here: 1) I'd highly recommend finding the Mazda M5 ATF, rather than using anything generic. It is different, and you do run a risk if you use anything else. The only other thing I'd consider is Amsoil since they have a warranty on their fluid. 2) Many manufacturers, including Mazda, don't recommend a flush. The safer bet is just to do a drain and fill, for instance at 30K intervals.
I just changed my moms 2010 mazda 3 tranmssion, we got it from other people legally(long story) but never changed the tranny fluid. until last week. but often do u have to changed the Tranny filter. (ever 30k like the fluid or ever other fluid change)
Yeah, Mazda advises not to remove transmission line, to do a flush while running engine on/off. If you do that you are supposed to back flush the transmission cooler, (if you have a factory one installed) sediment and air bubbles can get embedded. Drain and fill of the transmission as follows. Drain trans fluid and replace. Drive a hundred miles, this will move oil from trans bell/torque converter into fluid pan. Then drain and refill a 2d time. Easy. Mazda provides drain plugs for trans, most other car mfgs don't. Mazda has a reason for everything. Best to stick with Mazda parts, especially hoses, and procedures.
I''ll add something else, that is mostly overlooked by owners. Flushing the power steering fluid! It can get very dirty. It then dis-colors the plastic power steering level. haha, makes you think its full when its actually very low. Somehow the Mazda can continue to have power steering when the fluid has reverted to a jelly! Its not a hard job to drain and flush. Have to remove the passenger side tire (on the US vehicles) and the plastic fender liner. Then you can access the lines. On a 2010 Mazda 5 it uses M3 auto-transmission fluid for power steering fluid. Also, you can call Mazda parts dept, provide your cars VIN number and they can tell you which type of fluid is used on your vehicle for transmission. Some models the trans fluid is interchangeable, M3 or M5, Idemitsu, and independent mfg of fluids, provides an M3/M5 combo. Again, just easier to call Mazda and buy their stuff, and get it right.
Mazda issued a tech bulletin advising NOT to use any NON-MAZDA fluids in the transmission! M5 is what you want. Idemistu makes both M3/M5 if you want to save a buck, but I just buy the MAZDA fluid.
Mazda sells a bolt on oil cooler and an bolt on transmission cooler and the hoses to go with them. On my 2010 Mazda 5 (its a Mazda 3 with a van body) I have both. The are round as you see in the picture above, and have radiator water circulating thru them. Most people are unaware, as its one item Mazda does not show is where all the cooling water lines are circulating around, under and inside the engine. The system works very well, in cold climates its heating the trans fluid and motor oil, in summer its cooling them, its smart engineering.
Most likely no. There is an issue where transmission computer needs to be replaced to fix the problem you are describing. Check mazda247 forum and search for that.
If your still having the same issue go have the car scanned with an obd2 scanner it will pull the codes from the transmission and let you know what could possibly be the issue with your mazda
Not sure why your installing an aftermarket filter, when it has one right inside the pan. I simply drain the fluid, remove the pan and install a new stock transmission filter. Then after driving it for say a few weeks or even a few months, simply remove drain pan bolt and let the fluid drain out and refill. This method works perfect and has kept my mazda and nissan xterra shifting like butter. The nissan has nearly 200k on it and performs great. I don't really see the need to install an aftermarket filter set up for a mazda 5, but if it works good for you, then great. Just not really needed.
+Joel Thomas This way internal replacement will never really be needed plus it is more efficient then internal felt filter. There is also part of the fun project :)
+sigor2011 After further research I may put one like you used or one of the less expensive magnetized filters on my Mazda5. just recently serviced mine at 53k for the first time and I'm glad I opened the pan b/c it was pretty nasty. I drove it a week and drained and refilled once more to help remove more of the old fluid. Will drain and refill anytime the fluid looks slightly dark vs the reddish color it should be b/c it is super easy to do. I used Valvoline Maxlife ATF and it works great, just as it did in our 02 530i, great fluid. Anyone with a mazda5 should really service their tranny to make it last for probably 200k or more. Even if they don't remove the pan, keeping fresh fluid will keep it running smoothly. installing the aftermarket filter is a great idea if you don't open the pan, that way the fluid is filtered even if the stock strainer is no longer doing a good job, also you can easily change the external filter is pain free. Good Job!
Yeah, I would wonder this as well. I would think particles from the filter inside the trani pan that are fine enough would get passed around once built up enough in the filter. O_o
Great vid! I'm learning lots here and this is a brilliant idea. Would you mind linking all the parts you found on Amazon? Can't seem to find them??? Thanks in advance
If i were you, I'll using mercon v transmission fluid vs multi vehicle transmission fluid. Simply because this transmission was designed by ford and its original auto fluid is Mercon V. Also theres a builtin auto oil filter inside the oil pan n all u need to do is to remove the pan n change the auto filter. Nice video by the way
Mazda specifically says not to use that fluid. So far several years of service and 100km later and still shifts like new. I had external tranny filter added to avoid removing internal, less pita.
Thats was weird. As mazda in Malaysia is using mercon V or mazda MV transmission oil. Im using both oils for my clients car and it still runs great and some already reach 250k km. Anyway best wishes
@@mazdaneo1 Mazda fluid is fine as well. I'm just going by tsb issued by Mazda not to use Ford fluid, not from experience. Straight from service bulletin Bulletin No: 05-005/08: NOTE: • ATF M-V (TYPE M5) IS NOT THE SAME FLUID AS MERCON®V ATF. • ATF M-V (TYPE M5) HAS A GREATER VISCOSITY THAN MERCON®V ATF IN LOW TEMPERATURES. • ATF M-V (TYPE M5) HAS A GREATER ANTI-JUDDER SPECIFICATION THAN MERCON®V ATF. CAUTION: • USING ATF OTHER THAN ATF M-V (TYPE M5) IN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS DESIGNED TO USE ATF M-V (TYPE M5) MAY CAUSE SHIFT QUALITY COMPLAINTS. • USING ATF OTHER THAN MERCON®V IN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS DESIGNED TO USE MERCON®V MAY CAUSE TRANSMISSION DAMAGE Now, I do live in much colder climate then you and that clips be the big difference as it says about cold temperatures viscosity different between the two. You may simpl never have that issue in a warm climate.
That filter installation looks weak. That looks like repair plates from Home Depot for general use. Likely that is going to rust. Vibration of the filter assembly will likely shake the assembly apart or cause premature metal fatigue. I like the idea, but not the implementation. The Mazda is pretty low to the ground, risky. And why not just change the trans fluid more often? Or add a couple of fresh quarts of trans fluid at the time of every motor oil change. Easier.
Changing more often will help. I was towing my jetski with it and had no issue for several year. I've sold the car since. Also depends on the are you are in, mine is not rust prone.
