I found your video 3 years ago and it helped me find a part to replace just the spool and cable assembly on passenger side 2013 model. All the other parts had the motor included and cost about $400. I was able to find just the cable assembly online and replace it then in 1 to 2 hours and saved hundreds of dollars in parts and materials. Same issue presented last month on drivers side and for under $50 I was able to fix in around 90 minutes...again with reminder help of this video. We'll done.
Thanks Jonathan!!! I have a 2013 Sienna and phat and lazy. Was able to do this. I broke the plastic screw on Left Hand End Cap Molding same as you ;-/. Maybe cuz over time? Anyhow, you are a life savior. Save some $$$ and wanted to thank you for doing this video while replacing it. Thanks again. 26.95 plus tax ordered online at local Toyota Dealer and 6.99 amazon plastic tool kit for me.
This video just helped me fix my sienna, the cable broke 18 months ago on christmas morning. I had thought it was a 2k$ fix from what i saw online and then recently found this video. Thanks so much!
Great vid. I got the assembly for $50 off eBay in 2023. I also broke the rear trim taking it off (but only one of the three "pins", so the two seem to be holding it back on). Took me about an hour and a half, but that's because I was too stubborn to pull the seat for the first half of the job. TIP: only put the front cable holder on with one volt loose - it will give enough play that you can get the back cable end installed. Tip 2: one of the "push things" on the back cable end holder is not easily accessible - just push on the whole end with a screwdriver and the plastic will break free.
Changed our's tonight with the help of your video and it was really easy. Bought the van last year with a broken door cable, got the dealer down $500 because from what I could find at the time it was supposed to be an 8 hour job to fix. Took about an hour including vacuuming the carpet while the seat was out and I think the part was $28 on Amazon.
This helped tremendously with my repair. Thanks for posting! For anyone on the fence about this: if you can work a ratcheting wrench, get a good set of plastic pry tools for about $5, and confidently remove the trim pieces (which I found to be the hardest part) you'll be able to do this. I have zero mechanic or handyman skills.
Thanks for showing that this repair is not that hard and can be done by any handy person. I had no troubles completing this repair with the help of your video. Parts are really cheap compared to letting Toyota do it!
This video made it super simple. I know it’s been a long time since you made this video but thanks a lot! Saved me some labor and was great. Wished you did these types of videos for a living 😂
Thank you! All the info I need to do this repair. For others: The end cap molding has 3 clips - 1) bottom is easy, 2) top back takes some force to pop out, and 3) the last one is in the middle back, it is NOT A POP OUT, it is a slide. Slide the molding towards back (? i can't remember direction) of car to unclip. I broke mine thinking it was a pop out and pulling it towards me.
my door stopped working a few nights ago, but instead of leaving it for the next morning, I got real mad and tried to force it ( I know, I know. I NEVER do that, but You weren't there) not I have a broken rear quarter window and a door off its track. This video is excellent, and it will help me a lot in fixing it all back proper. thanks a lot!
Thanks Jonathan, would you please post a video on removing all center plastic parts in order to get access to the driver side blend door. Would really be helpful to a lot of your subscribers.
Thank you for this video! It made changing my cables much easier!! In case anyone is unsure, the outside plastic piece below the rear window that has to be removed, which you said you broke, it pulls a little and then SLIDES off. I wasn't expecting that, but it would've made my disassembly much quicker!
This is my biggest question, this may sound weird but can you describe in detail where on the plastic piece it needs to be pulled and which direction to slide it?
Your tutorial was truly a $$$ saver! Thank you for taking the time to put this out in the world. Your deconstructing the parts, key connections and order of replacement was spot on. I also replaced the center glide hinge with worn bearings that was causing the door to bind. Total for OEM parts from Toyota Parts was $98.00. The service side quoted me $900-$1200 for the job. Boom!
This video was very helpful! In my case, the cable wasn't snapped, it was hanging loose completely out of the door. Dealership quoted over $1000 to fix it. When I took the door panel off I found the plastic housing that slides onto the motor had cracked into 3 pieces and the insides of it just fell out on the ground. Van is only 4 years old. Makes me wonder how long the replacement will last. At least it only costs $30 and an hour of time to replace.
Thank you for your video. I finally replaced driver side cable about two weeks ago. Today I got a letter from Toyota they are offering free repairs on sliding door closing/opening problem due a class action.
Updated service bulletin from Toyota - static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10162772-9999.pdf Updated part numbers are: 04009-02108 RH Passenger Side. 04009-02208 LH Driver Side - 1/10/2024
Yes I figured that out and you're right it was a little more challenging however thanks to many folks like you I was lead to a successful repair and a tremendous sense of satisfaction. Muchas Gracias
very helpful !.. just remember to attach the round motor spool LAST and only when the door is closed and ONLY after both wires are attached . If not, the spool will be damaged beyond repair ( which happened to me) . If it is attached before wires are set, then the motor will pull the wires in the spool too much and destroy the unit.
Thanks Jonathon! Super helpful. I was glad I tackled this project. I am not a mechanic and the following information is purely for entertainment purposes. ;-) ....I found that if you just pry up the bottom tab of End Cap Molding (Part No. 68374-08020) at the very back window (at 5:15 of the video), you can sneak a 10mm socket on an extension rod to remove the bolt that holds bracket that secures the black cable. I couldn't get the end cap molding out without it feeling like it was going to shatter in my hands, so this was my solution to getting that cable retaining bracket off.
Thank you for the great video. Easy to see everything. Well explained and right to the point. No bs. Just business. I Wonder if using a heat gun on plastic trim pieces will help prevent broken parts. Guess I’ll find out soon enough when I install it tomorrow! Did you use an OEM cable assembly?
I have just watched this in preparation of tackling the same job on a Toyota Alphard. I'm hoping this guide will be the closest to what I expect to see inside my doors. Any extra tips anyone?
Hi Jonathan, Good Job! Thanks for your Info. I have a question, How do you open inside door panel? I can't open the door to fix this broken sliding door cable. Could you give me more detail/Info. Please reply Thank You.
Cauition.....on the-assembly ( around 7:35 +/-) you went quickkly to attaching the door interior.....but, you need to caution viewers to re-attach the power window connector on the backside....and THEN attach the door panel...just sayin' for those that do this step-by-step. Good job showing this.
Not sure if you tried yet, but the 2004-2010 Sienna cable setup is a little different. Unfortunately it is supposed to be more difficult to replace - never tried it though.
My 2011 Sienna is having this problem with passenger side sliding door. May I ask, did your door not function at all when the cable broke? My door starts to open when any of the activation points are pressed, then beeps continually and closes. Unfortunately, my rear hatch door is doing the same thing. Just wondering if this may be another issue. Dealer wants $326+ to just diagnose the problem, then parts and labor to fix. Thanks for any input you can provide and for your great video. I'm inspired to try and do it myself!
Another question.....it sems you retained the white plastic cover on the new spool backside.....the Toyota tech bulletin says this needs to be removed yet they ALSO say be careful not to unspool the unit when you do....hmm....you kept yours in-place and so did a few other RU-vidrs....maybe that is overall the better way to go?
Thanks got it done following this, but one problem. The main panel doesn't fully snap on, there's a rather large gap near top front. Had to push hard to get the screw hole line up. Do you know if there's anything that could be blocking the panel from getting fully seated?
TIP/NOTE - seems obvious now, but when you're putting it all back together, before you pull the unlocked door handle (that previously wouldn't open with power) to put the side panel back on, HIT THE POWER DOOR BUTTON OFF! Unfortunately for me, I was watching this video using using car stereo... and in the last 5 seconds of the repair... it snapped my speaker wire and the power window button... with the window still down 👌
Hello...I got my cable out on my right side on my 2013 sienna...can u tell me if the linkage assembly comes with the wheel plastic cap that u screw in on the motor, because that is also broken by the hole for the screw...on the drawings that I find online it seems like that is part of the motor and at the dealership they told me the same...just wondering if your came with it? Thanks
It comes with the plastic cable housing and parts that mate with the motor spline, but I'm not sure this is exactly what you are referring to. Go to minute 1:00 of the video; you can see what comes with the cable assembly. Hope this helps
When I type in that part number for the linkage it shows the part but doesn’t show the black housing the linkage attaches to motor. Did you use your old one or was that all new? Mine broke when the cable snapped
I'm not sure, but this may help: parts.olathetoyota.com/blog/sienna-side-door-failure#:~:text=Sometimes%20the%20side%20door%20will,for%20two%20or%20three%20seconds.
Spring 2020 Toyota issued an extended warranty on this. I have 2011 and just go it replaced for free by the dealer. Check with dealer first could save time and money
Thanks for sharing - I recently received the same warranty extension and it also states that if you have had the cable replaced in the past, you can be reimbursed. Good luck everybody!
Ordered the part from OEM Part Source and it was broken inside the box. Now a week later and they still haven't even replied. I would be careful about buying parts from this place.
@@klieberw I called the company and they said take it off, though I did watch another video where the guy kept it on and his door worked fine, at least the few times he demonstrated the working door. The first one I ordered I messed up when I took the white cover off I wasn't careful and the cable unspooled, and then I respooled it on wrong and when I activated the door the cable got all tangled and bent. I ordered a second one was more careful when I took off the white covering and then was able to slide it on without it unspooling. It's been working for about a month now. I actually thought to myself if I messed up the second one I was going to order a third one and keep the white cover on, luckily it didn't come down to that.
I have 2015 sienna and cable was snapped making the door completely stuck. Took it to the stealership and quoted $3000 initially. Later found that toyota extended warranty on sliding doors and mortors and cable assembly. I am waiting on the parts to come. Wont buy another Toyota product after this car
I ended up getting mine right from the dealer's parts dept for $39.24....is was about $3 more than online when you factor in shipping, but I thought it was worth the time saved and have a Toyota part.