Just finished this repair on my wife's 2014 Sienna. Your video is absolutely amazing. Thank you for the excellent shots and spec so that it is clear and concise. Took the Sienna to a shop and they wanted $2300+tax ($2000 for the coupling sub assembly/EMC & $300 for labor). I completed the whole job for $200. And that's with me having a machine shop press out the old bearing and in the new bearing. Took a total of 5ish hours. Again, I'm so appreciate for your video.... It's saved me a ton of money. Well done!!
Just a note of thanks for your efforts making the video. This past weekend I replaced the bearings in the assembly on my wife’s Sienna with 140k miles. I did both the large bearing like you showed as well as the smaller one inside the clutch. The smaller one did not appear to be bad, but I figured since I had it all apart that I’d replace it anyway. Also installed a new dust shield. The parts were like $180 on EBay plus a little gear oil. Your video definitely helped me to gather up the right tools so I didn’t have to make all kinds of extra trips to the toolbox. Thanks again for your efforts.
Tremendously helpful I get the car used and I hear the noise and I think it's the transmission then I get underneath and I think I need the differential. I'm capable of doing this repair you encourage me greatly thank you very much 💛
Thanks for making such a great video! Very helpful, well articulated instruction. I like how you include the actual work being done, with advice on torque, thoughtful explanations of how your doing things. I happen to have the same model and year Sienna that you worked on, and I had the same problem. Discovering this video helped save me hundreds of dollars on making this repair. Thank you again!
Thank you so much for this video. Mine took several days to do, but only because I could only work on the van after work. Also, the dealership sold me a defective bearing, so I had to wait on them for a replacement. All in all, job got finished and I no longer hear any whining sound from my coupler anymore
Thank you for the video - we did this repair this afternoon on our 2011 Sienna and it worked like a charm, ordered the exact parts you detailed - very helpful!
Hi Steven, just curious how long it took you to fix this? Did you have any challenges? I consider myself a handy person, but never done this before. And I dont even have the car lifts or jacks. But thinking to do it myself as literally no other mechanic wont even consider rebuilding it for me. And I hear dealer is asking north of $2500
Around 6 hrs of labour (while doing the video and explaining all the steps of how to do) + 3 hrs or more waiting for the sealant to dry. The only challenge was pounding the old bearing out of the housing. A press would be nice for this job.
Excellent! I have a 2006 Matrix 4WD with 199,647 miles and it has had the vc bearings replaced at 80k miles. Then around 190k miles the shaft would wiggle where it connected to the viscous coupler (non-electronic)...the bearing seat in the aluminum viscous coupler housing was severely worn away by the steel bearing with barely any metal holding the bearing in place. New housing and bearings fixed it. Car still runs like new.
Wow! Sorry that it happened to you twice within 200k. Good maintenance and repair would go a long way. I am glad that your 2006 Matrix still runs like.
I just got mine fixed. Thanks a lot for the video. My total cost was $590, that includes the part (brand new viscous coupler) and labor. I bought the viscous coupler brand new (with 2 years warranty) from e-bay. And found a mechanic that I trusted. He had never done this before. But it was still very easy for him. And I was able to follow every step of him because I watched this video so many times ( when I was thinking I was going to replace the part myself). It took him literally 1 hour to take out the old part, replace the new one, and put oil in it. So don't every pay dealers and mechanics that are asking $3000 for it right now. (yes 3 other mechanics asked $3000 from me for a 1 hour job!!!) Anyways, just thought I would share my experience to help others. Thanks a lot for sharing this video!
Excellent video brother! Keep up the great work! I really liked the first person view perspective from the camera. I was wondering what camera and holder do you use for filming?
Great video. Did you only do the big bearing? My smaller one isn’t bad but its not great so bought that as well..I just can’t figure out how to remove it!!!
Yes, only the big bearing was replaced. Everything else was left alone including the seal. I am not sure how sure how remove that small bearing either.
I got like a 2017 Toyota Kluger *High Lander* ........ Jacked it up, as you turn the wheels you can hear like a tap tap tap type sound........ and feel it on the cv shafts. Did yours exibit such a thing? In the car it sounded like tyre treat something stuck in a tyre etc.... but it also hummed.
Top left bolt connecting coupler and differential is tough. Very difficult after 0.5 inch coming out. Using 22" wrench. Thinking I may break something. Bolt head looks okay. should I stop? or force it? Need advise. Thank you.
Spray some rust penetrating oil then wait for a few hours before you try to loosen it. I am not sue why it’s like that. Mine came out with no issue. Please do it at your own risk. I can’t be reliable if you break anything. Thank you and good luck!
What size is the bearing press? I have a 4" but it seems too small. The new bearing is 4.5". Is your tool 4.67 or 4.5? Thanks! Super video! Very good and thorough explanation!
Yes, those are the Air Lift/Air Suspension which stiffen up and raise the rear end to about 1”. I used them for towing the boat trailer and heavy load of fish after fishing.
🙋🏻♂️🧰 I noticed when you flip over the coupling use a smaller size bearing press ring to drive the electro magnetic coupling device back into the housing and I was wondering what size did you use?
Amazing! Thank you. How is the bearing holding up without the O ring? I have a 2011 with the same problem. Where did you get the parts? Toyota keeps telling me you must replace entire unit. Thanks for your help bro.
The bearing has been holding up very well so far. As you have seen in my video, the two bearings have identical part number except the old one has the outer o-ring and the new one doesn’t. I got just ordered my part from my local Toyota dealer by giving the exact part number as ‘no replacement bearing’ listed for my 2013 Sienna rear differential. Yes, the dealer would systematically tell you to replace the whole unit because there’s no replacement bearing listed in their system.
Hey brother can you tell me which seal needs to order for the right and left side differential to connect to the axle because my car left and right leaking needs to replace the seal thanks
Sorry, I don’t know the part number the axle seal. You need to check with your local Toyota dealer or if you’re looking for an aftermarket one then head to Rockauto.com.
Hi I have I have a same problem and I went Toyota dealer they don’t sell the bearing by self. And I get the part number that you show on your video. And they say that not for Toyota Sienna. For a different car. I get the same part number on the video.
Lol! Yes, they just told you what the system told them. For some reasons that bearing PN is not listed for this 2013 Toyota Sienna. I took a chance and it turned out to be exactly the same bearing that was in my van. You can take a chance ($150) or pay $1500 for the whole rear differential. Use it as your own risk!
Wonder if its the same on a emina 3.0 v6 4x4 it almost sounds like a electric whine on my 2000 model if that makes sense, Anyway great informative vid thanks
Before the problem happened, I used my van every summer for towing a fishing boat and going down the boat launch where the rear diff. fully submerged in the water. I am sure that had something to do with the problem - heavy loading/towing and water damage. Other owners may have different experience that led to that bearing failure. So my advice to you is keep away from heavy towing and keep the rear differential off the water.
The hub grappler kit would be expensive for this repair if you had to buy it. I just happened to have it from my previous wheel bearing repair. You can find something else that work or you can have your local repair shop just to press out the old one and in the new. Anyway, here’s the link for the kit if you still want to get it. www.ebay.ca/itm/184997488710?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=omldyznwr0k&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Ahg_4LbmT6O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Hi I think it is same issue with my 2012 Sienna limited Awd just both it 6 days ago from private owner when driving on D or N after run start kind of like this Noise and sound I will be happy if help me with that please thanks
If you can do it yourself, then buy the parts and follow this video to fix it at your own risk. Otherwise take it to your friendly mechanic. He may be able to help you out. Good luck!
Q1> My car is 2012 AWD Sienna LE. Does the car share the same parts with yours 2013? Q2> Where did you rent the hub grabble? Q3> Do you just use two original bolts to remove the four studs? Many thanks!
Hi JackM, A1: This car had 176K Km when I heard the noise. A2: My guess is that yours will have the same bearing but don’t quote me for it. Use as your own risk. As far as I know, my 2013 has the same bearing as the 2011 Sienna AWD of this guy on Siennchat.com: www.siennachat.com/threads/awd-coupling-repair-diy-growling-whirring-buzzing-humming.60841/
To ensure correct alignment and to avoid vibration on the propeller shaft and the rear differential, the propeller shaft must be reinstalled to the rear differential at exact location when it was removed. Since the factory markings are no longer visible, we need to mark (a line running to both brackets) the propeller shaft bracket and rear differential bracket before they’re separated.
@@PTranProductions Based on my understanding, there are four different way we can install the propeller shaft onto the rear differential because there are four stud locations. After removing four studs, you mark the location of one of the bolt hole in propeller shaft relative to the location of the rear differential mounting surface, you cannot use the rear differential outer wall as reference b/c it will rotate to any position. So during installation, you are able to reinstall it as factory does. Does my understanding correct?
There should be only one way to install the propeller shaft to maintain good balance as of from the factory to avoid vibration. Yes, markings to be done on the the propeller shaft mounting bracket and the relative differential mounting plate.
I mean is it necessary to drain the dif fluid? I’m about to do it on my 2012 Sienna awd. At first I thought it was the rear hub assembly that I just did last dec. Thank you for your video,this was an eye opener.👍👏👏👏
Not sure which seal you’re talking about here. The bearing also has a metal ring dust cap in front which just needs to be popped out when the bearing comes out.
@@PTranProductions thank you. I got it off. I thought the metal ring might have been held in under the lip of the casing but it was just some grease that was creating suction on the ring. I appreciate it very much. I did find that there was oil in the casing of the viscous coupler and that the inner unit has some discoloration. Could my actual coupler unit be bad? I do get a thumping feeling sometimes when accelerating from a slow start.
Not sure what you meant by distortion. Do you see any sign of physical damage on the differential unit itself. If you see oil inside the coupler assembly, there may be an oil leak into the coupler from the main unit. Run your finger around the main seal on on the main unit (inner unit/differential unit) to check for any damage/cut when you pull the coupler. Replace that main seal if you’re in doubt and there’s oil inside the coupler.
@@PTranProductions discoloration on the inner electromagnetic unit like when metal gets really hot and turns like a dark blue color. Would it be okay for me to contact you somehow and ask you a few questions? Not sure if there is a way on here to privately message you
@@PTranProductions the seal felt fine but i replaced it anyway. Just kind of wondering if the thumping could be coming from the coupler itself so rather than spending $150 to replace the bearings. Maybe i should replace the whole coupler
I got my 11 XLE AWD about 120,000 and not sure if it has been done yet Sienna now has 170,000 on it. Could it have been done already? When are they expected? Side note I put a 3.5 Journey's offroad lift on it as well as a 0 miles remanufacturered transmission, KYB front struts, class 3 hitch, Air Lift air bags in rear, "just makes for a softer right oddly enough". New Rear Drive shaft, "ridiculous $900 for that stupid part alone"Drilled slotted brake rotors and new Alternator since I've owned it. Not sure about this viscous coupler whether been replaced or not. These vans seem to have a high cost of ownership. 😂😂😂
First of all, it’s not a maintenance item that needs to be serviced or replaced. If you have no noise coming from your rear differential, you don’t need to worry. It is an expensive ownership on yours, indeed! My 2013 Limited AWD about 192K Km has got water pump with idler pulley replacement due to abnormal noise ( I believe the idler pulley was the cause not the water pump), rear air lift bags, rear differential repair, new set of front and rear brake rotors (after 10 years), new spark plugs, transmission fluid replacement. So that’s not too bad for 10 yrs of ownership. 😀 Now I just keep my fingers crossed on the belt tensioner due to abnormal noise on high load (when AC running). That’ll be a pain to replace. 🤞😬
@@PTranProductions unironically the moment I now notice you replied back, I'm actually back to view the steps on replacing this bearing😂😂 Mine has finally succumb to old age. I'm needing to replace this bearing now. 😂 mine started with an odd very soft Wizz sound and now has gotten louder and louder. My question I have is.. what bearing tool is that besides the hammer? Is that a particular bearing press tool? Do I need to get that? Rent maybe? Or can this be done using wooden block or something? Thanks in advance for your input..
@@jonathanfreedom1st Well, when I did this bearing, I happened to have the OTC Hub grappler kit that I bought before for other bearing job: a.co/d/gKv8bKt Yes, It’s an expensive kit. Price has definitely gone up much higher after Covid. I paid around $950 CAD before. Anyway, you do not really need to have this kit to do the job. You basically need a 4-3/4” diameter plate to press/hammer out/in the bearing. So if you can find any cheaper kit that has that plate, then you are set. You can also use a brass rod such as this one: a.co/d/2ak8Zo3 to go around to hammer in/out the bearing. It’s an intensive repair job but it’s doable. Good luck!
Tran, when you are pushing the coupling back into the housing you took the oil and you went around the front of the coupling internal and then when you put it inside the housing you used one of the cylindrical press fittings not the same size as the other one it was the smaller one I'm wondering what size you use of the round metal to push it back in when you hit that with the hammer so that it does not damage the internal?
When you are pushing the counter is about 32; 21 of the time/45:13 What size bearing press do you use when you strike it back in? Thank you so very much
It's off that holds a this is coupling electromagnetic clutch assembly at the front of the differential. It has about one 36k on it I've been adding oil behind the slinger plate to quiet the using the red oil in the store mixed with the differential oil with a manual sum trigger can. Heated the bolts holding the electro magnetic coupling to the differential I've heated them 6 times I've added penetrating oil. I just can't seem to get them off even with the torque gun has anybody had this problem does anyone have suggestions I got one of the bolts loose that was the easy one on top two but the bottom ones and the DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO BREAK THOSE? I'M USING THE ELECTRIC TORQ GUN AND THE PENATRATING OIL. STILL NO LUCK BREAKING THEM LOOSE FROM THE DIFFERENTIAL CASE THEIR ATTACHED TO DOES ANYBODY HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS?
Not sure why you’re having a hard time with those bolts. Mine came off without any trouble. Try to spray plenty of penetrating oil and let it soaked overnight and try loosen them with a breaker bar. I wouldn’t want to put too much heat on that differential because it may damage the rubber seal inside the unit. Good luck!
@@PTranProductions yes mr. Tran my friend the 14 m m v i got one loose but the others are extremely difficult. I ordered the bolts from Toyota in case they break that I can have the replacement available. I'm having the experience man break the bolts loose for me because I'm 58 and I think that he have more experience at this than me. So I ask the mechanic if he will break the four bolts loose for me and put some wax on them and I ordered the replacement bolts so I have them because it's a good idea to re place them. THANK YOU AS ALWAYS MY GOOD FRIEND MR. TRAN. YOU ARE A GREAT NEIGHBOR 😉🙏🙏
Here’s the one: www.ebay.ca/itm/385263712906?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pGshRhY1TRy&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
So I got everything done today to the point of reassembling the housing with the new bearing. I spun it by hand and it sounds like this ru-vid.comNkWunFj6JJY I am thinking this is not how it should sound. It sounds a bit like the whine from before. The other smaller bearing spins smoothly with no noise with the old bearing removed and before I reassembled with the new bearing.
@@PTranProductions Sorry, I meant to come back and add an update and forgot. Thanks for reminding me 😀 After reassembling everything, everything seems to be ok. The whine is gone and everything is working well. Thank you for your excellent video
@@LetsDIYIt Nice! The noise that you heard while spinning by hand with the new bearing installed could be just from the effect of that electromagnetic coupler.
Does your Toyota do the same thing? My car sitst down to tail when shifting from P to D (when not warmed up. not sure how it's related) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zw1Yu59aK0Q.html
@@PTranProductions Hello. The problem is, that every time in the morning I have a very weird feeling. When I shift from P to D, rear bumber is going down, like literally everybody can see it and I can feel it. So car is like sitting down to rear end. Like a frog, that is preparing to jump )))
@@PTranProductions Not possible. Wheels rotating by hands very easily. They are working like a charm. And this behavior is only in the morning, when car is not warmed up
