2014-2018 GMC Sierra, Silverado A/C Evaporator Core Replacement 

Was this your issue?

Did you go from the bottom? How did you get the ratchet on there?

Thanks! So many videos have you watch an intro and then after that they ramble on and on about irrelevant stuff then video every single bolt they remove to give you a 30 minute video with only 5 minutes worth of actual useful information. Damnit all I want is the meat and potatoes!

Yep I hate those videos. Give me just the meat and potatoes!

And then they cut the time down. Ha ha

Usually you can remove the blower motor resistor and use a borescope to get a good look at the evaporator core. Most leaks will leave behind a wet oil spot or in this case an UV leak detector dye that is visible with a special UV light borescope

I have the Same Question !

This one had screws but some newer GM units are held together by melting the plastic case halves together (like a plastic "spot weld"). Unfortunately, I haven't had to repair those yet so I can't offer any great advice but I'm pretty sure you would drill them out and install screws with washers.

That’s what I do. Drill and find new screws to fit.

Used A/C leak detection dye and my Snap-On borescope with the UV probe with dual cameras (one is at 90 degrees). I believe I went through the blower motor resistor hole.

Leaking heater core will cause sweet smell. A dead rodent will cause the bad smell.

I just got the same quote today on my 2018, and was wondering the same thing

Heater core, evaporator core, evaporator temperature sensor, any hard-to-access air door actuators.

If your evaporator is leaking enough to produce an odor, your a/c would allready be noticeably low on refrigerant. I can immediately tell by smell whether it is the evaporator or heater core leaking but I've had plenty of sniff tests to dial in my sniffer throughout my career. But to answer your question a borescope through the blower motor resistor cavity is the 1st step I take to verify a leak. Most leaks will leave an oil spot that is visible with the borescope. If you don't see anything put some UV leak detection dye in the system and recharge the A/C. When it gets low again, look for the leak with a UV flashlight and glasses. I have yet to have dye fail me!

@@TechnicianRed the leak test seems fairly easy And its not to expensive. I know my A/c isnt low since my air is still cold. However it blows hot with the wet smell only for couple seconds when i start up my AC after it starts blowing cold. I stoped at oriellys to get this spray to put in the outer vents to hopefully clear out the mildew or smell it worked for about a day hahah to no avail. Thanks you for the tip!! Hopefully i can get the issue resolved b4 it becomes a bigger problem

@@mclovin_it8872 heater core

I don't know. They have to be located in one of the main electrical disconnects that I disconnected in the video.

@@timothyrachford1868 nope, haven't even touched one of those cars yet!

@@TechnicianRed step 1 disconnect the battery, step 2 remove the front doors

@@timothyrachford1868 I heard some new GM models require windshield removal to gain access to hardware holding the dash in. I haven't actually seen that yet- just what I have heard.

@TechnicianRed I haven't had the pleasure of doing much interior work yet on the newer stuff, but know I really dislike the engineers that design them

Yes

I have never had a problem and I have removed probably 150 dashes so far. Don't buy the plastic trim tools- they suck and usually cause more damage than a smooth metal trim tool.

The seats can stay in.

@@TechnicianRed thanks do I need to drain the coolant or it doesn’t matter?

I use electrical tape to hold the bolt to the socket. It doesn't take much. Very easy to do with flange bolts/nuts. Just a 1/32" overlap under the flange holds good buy still allows easy socket removal.

15.1 hrs book time at approx $150/hr plus parts & R134a. About $3,000

Just got a quote for $3200 in Utah.

I just did a 17 this morning and didn't have that tool either. I wound up pulling the hoses through the firewall with the box since there was room

​@@papacrunk5967 - fuel line disconnect doesnt work like in previous years?

Can you give some more details about this ?

I've actually never had 1 rattle from doing a dash removal job and I have done many makes/models. So long as all the bolts go back in its really hard to mess it up.

Check your blower motor resistor connector and go back over all the connectors that were unplugged behind the kick panels, etc.