2014 - 2018 Mazda 3 Lower Control Arm and Ball Joint Replacement with Torque Specs - 3rd gen Mazda3

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Just a quick video showing how easy it is to replace the lower ball joints and the entire lower control arm on a 2014 - 2018 Mazda 3. This one happened to be made in Japan, but I don't think there is a difference in the lower control arms. The owner bought the replacement parts from TRQ
Here's the link to the video for how to replace the quick struts:
• 2014 - 2018 Mazda 3 Fr...
Here's the video on the rear shock replacement:
• 2014 - 2018 Mazda 3 Ho...
Torque Specs:
27 - 31 ft lbs for the Ball Joint Retention Pinch Bolt & Nut
158-191 ft lbs for the Front Lower Control Arm Bolt
101 - 126 ft lbs for the Rear Longer Lower Control Arm Bolt
74 - 89 ft lbs for the Rear Shorter Lower Control Arm Bolt
Tools Needed:
19mm socket and/or breaker bar or impact wrench
1/2" Impact Wobble
14mm deep socket and ratchet or impact
14mm ratcheting wrench or box end wrench
Pry Bar
Mallet
Jack & Jackstands
Torque Wrench
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'Memory Card Full' by Birocratic
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Опубликовано:

30 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 34

@TheAdventureAuto 5 часов назад

This helped. Thanks especially for posting what specs were for bolts.

@coryvandeberg3675 2 месяца назад

What is the point of replacing the control arm and the ball joints? Doesn't the ball joint just need replacing? I'm just curious. Thanks

@dickieradd 26 дней назад

Doing the ball joint alone still involves like 90% of this work process. Doing the whole thing is just an extra 2 bolts, AND doing ball joint alone means you have to buy a ball joint press kit to get that sucker out and new one in

@hawkboy000 22 дня назад

You are already there. Better to just do it one time.

@sutherlandrb32 12 дней назад

The ball joint is not replaceable in this design it is all sold together

@kevingarrigus 4 дня назад

Also the bushings go bad where the arm in mounted to the car

@Viking7771 4 дня назад

The ball joints are replaceable you can buy regular ones or severe duty ones but i purchase the whole assembly for each side because when I talked with the parts guy he said the bushings will be mostly bad also

@jackrichards4888 4 месяца назад

Just re did my whole entire rear end, control arms were seized shock was as well so I checked this out for the front because I have to do that as well, a lot of sawzall was needed..

@juanspicywiener Месяц назад

Just did this on the drivers side and had a hard time with seized bolts, i have a couple of things to add. I was able to reach the front bolt with a 19mm deep socket and a regular socket wrench, impact with a universal was no help. Lots of pb blaster needed. I am unable to swing the torque wrench (front bolt) without having the car on a lift, using a universal joint will give you improper torque, so i ended up guessing by using a regular wrench and tapping it with a hammer until it was difficult to budge. Hopefully that's good enough. For the outer bolt i used an impact and breaker bar and was unable to get it loose. I ended up cutting a hole (don't cut too deep!) in the side with an angle grinder so i could fit the pb blaster tube inside to reach the threads of the bolt. After a couple of hours it came loose but i ended up buying a new bolt because i damaged the head pretty bad. Also with the control arm off it makes it a lot easier to replace the inner tie rod end.

@sharifsircar 18 дней назад

Crack/break or seize 😅😅

@jdub976 2 месяца назад

Thank you. Clear and east to understand. Can you put a jackstand under that rear control arm mounting point? The one with the 2 big bolts you torqued at the end. Looks plenty strong just want to be sure as I have to do my belts this weekend and that looks like a good out of the way place for support for that job. Thank you.

@jemtechandmore2101 Месяц назад

Thank you for the tutorial, i like your tutorial much more than anybody else as it was all done outside the mechanic shop.👍 By any chance can you do a tutorial on how to change the rubber bushing on the stabilizer arm of 2014 mazda 3? I replaced almost all the parts of the suspension of my car, but I still hear some noise underneath in the right middle part of the car every it hits a deep pot holes. The only part that i can see that causes the noise is the stabilizer arm bushing.

@dewaynemakihele32 Месяц назад

Nice video man! Gonna do this along with my cv axle.

@jasonhong7722 25 дней назад

you're a saint, i need to do this on mine! keep up the good work

@TheMikevt 2 месяца назад

this would turn into a shit show in Canada, or the salt belt.

@Milan_Tamang569 Месяц назад

Thank you it really helpful ❤

@suprimx3130 3 месяца назад

Will use this video for my guide! Thumbs up!! Hope you could do caliper, rotor replacement as well. Thanks

@rbartow22 3 месяца назад

I don't remember the exact video, I thought it was 1A auto but there are several good rotor/brake and caliper replacement videos that worked super well for me. I'm a car noob and I replaced both in my 18 mazda 3 touring and had it checked at a service center and it went perfectly.

@fidegall 3 месяца назад

How many miles did that car have?

@rstscott 4 месяца назад

The Mazda dealership wants $1600 for this job.

@DantheFixitMan 4 месяца назад

Wow! That seems like a lot for the amount of time it took.

@MyKonaRC 4 месяца назад

Do you have the parts, time, space, tools, knowledge, and skill? It may seem a little expensive but was that for two of them and including wheel alignment that is needed after the part(s) are replaced.

@rbartow22 3 месяца назад

@@MyKonaRC Dealerships are always significantly more expensive though. My dealership wants around the same while a number of local highly rated mechanics and Mazda certified mechanics will all do it for under $1,000 parts/labor/warranty. It's cause dealerships charge between $110-$160+ per labor hour (despite only actually paying said mechanics around $26-$30/hour). The cost for the axle on my car is $450, it takes 1.7 hours but let's just say 3 hours, so the dealership should be maximum $930 at worst but than they add in a chunk of other fees, insurance, etc. They also tell me upfront they charge nearly 35% additional just for the part - $660 - but won't let me buy the OEM part directly myself to save the money lol. Dealerships are scams when it comes to non-warranty fixes compared to equal jobs from equally qualified non-dealer mechanics.