Also, another good tip, put that undercover back on when you go out for a drive! I thought id save time leaving it off to check the level after a quick drive. At 40mph i heard a massive clunking sound, my mind said good job the transmission is toast! Found out the metal plate (which covers the cats/exhaust) further behind the undercover share a couple of bolts. It basically was catilevered and the downforce from the wind pushed it down to the ground causing it to make contact with the road and bounce up and down! Had to go 25mph all the way home. Just a helpful tip
I had this exact same problem today. My undercover had lost most of the screws over the past 95,000 miles, so I thought during the last oil change I'd just take it off so it isn't flapping in the wind. Then on my next drive I hear what I thought was a catastrophic engine or transmission issue as soon as I got above 25 MPH. I checked under the car and saw the metal skid plate hanging down near the ground. I had to drive all the way home with my hazards on trying to stay under about 20MPH. Luckily I was only a couple miles from home.
@@hillwood24 haha i was in the same situation! You should be able to unbolt the metal cover as well and i think be fine. Just make sure it doesnt share bolts with the passenger side undercover that goes down the length of the car
Thanks for the video, I have a 2015 lincoln MKC that has a similar type of transmission if not the same, couldn't find much info nor videos of to service this type until I saw your video, thank you!
Good video. I stopped doing my own minor maintenance when the cost to have somebody else do it was only a few extra $$ more. I liked doing it but only having ONE vehicle makes for Murphy's Law. You'll need something from the parts store or dealer that you forgot or broke with no way to get there. Good seeing your mug since graduation 30+ years ago. WTH?!
Hi, great video, perhaps you ought to mention that what you showed was only a partial transmission fluid change. Capacity is about 10 quarts in total . You would need to run the var for a while and then carry out the procedure again, that way you will cone close to a complete fluid change. Agree 200%, getting that filler cap on and off is a nightmare!
I called my Ford dealer. He quoted me $350 to change oil and recommended it at 50k. That’s ridiculous. I have 49k on my 2014 2.5. I have noticed a low speed drag and slip after coasting and accelerating. Seeing your video and hassle to save Ford 30 cents on a filler tube and…always been a Ford customer! Time to trade to a Toyota.
Tip for anyone doing this. When you tighten the drain bolt make sure to apply some thread sealant first. Screw the bolt in finger tight then make it slightly snug with a wrench, it’s very easy to strip or crack the case.
2014 SE has an intercooler connected to engine coolant that chills the transmission fluid. If wait too long (100k+ tran service) this overheats fluid and the intercooler delaminates and leaks tran fluid into antifreeze. No dip stick filter or fill spout with these 2014 Fusions. Entire pan need dropped. I have serviced mine at 60k. Issue is that transmissions run on hydrostatic pressure and clean new fluid has lower friction. Thus gears slip first 8k miles but as fluid gets dirty transmission operates MORE smoothly. So not 100k but probably more than 30k. Each time open it up a chance to damage it. NEVER "FLUSH" TRANSMISSION. This ruins the seals.
Thanks for the video. I just acquired a 2014 Ford Fusion from my Dad's estate. Have found this car to be weird from what I'm usually used to. However, i can't figure out why my dome lights inside the car DON'T work. They won't even turn on with a button push. And the fuse is not blown? It baffles me.
AFT colour doesn't mean much these days,, It'll go dark pretty quick with the higher temps but it still does the job. Good to change it out on a normal interval anyway, regardless of colour. If you do this 5 times with some driving in between to mix old and new fluid, you'll probably get most of the fluid changed. I usually do 4L of ATF with every oil change for a year, after a few oil changes, the ATF is pretty much all swapped out too. It's just draining 1/3 of the ATF each time, so you need to do more because you are mixing old with new each time. If you actually drain and filled with a newer model Motorvac (through fill tube not in lines) it is a lot more effective. So there is actually less of a savings to do it yourself than it seems because you have to buy more fluid.
Ford says it's a "life time" transmission which they only expect the car to last 100K lol. Yea I change mine every 30K miles too. There's no way I would go 100K miles without changing it unless you want to toss it in the scrap yard.
Dont think you loosened up the fill plug while the car was up to full temperature. Watch ford makuloco's video on the 6f35 transmission. Pour that 4 quarts in, get it up to temp at idle, pour more in until it dribbles out while car is running and in park after you shifted through the gears, then close it up. Then drive it 10-15 minutes on the road, come back and check the level again while its at idle. After a drive itll be foamy and dribble out some more, should be at perfect level when it stops coming out.
Yeah, FTM has a good vid on changing the AWD PTU as well. Just did both on my wife’s 16 Fusion AWD. Both black as soot with only 46k miles. Luckily our 16 PTU has a drain plug. Older models did not, which made it twice as difficult. Still need to do the rear diff.
@@donv6039 I have the AWD 16 fusion. I tow for a car lot that sells mostly fusions. I've noticed almost all of them kick going into 3rd gear, as well as my fusion. Did yours do this before changing the transmission fluid? Or after?
@@humansvd3269 just did mine again not long ago, have to really drive it (like highway speeds) to get the fluid nice and hot. Has to be between 175F-200F to have it be perfectly level. The cooling lines i think keep it within this temperature range.
Also bro look into the high pressure fuel pump.... Cam follower on end of pump wears out .. 10$ part make your whole engine go out. There is a RU-vid video of a guy replacing engine on one... Replace follower every 60k... Mines was worn
Hey man, great video. I am having trouble with my 2016 fusion, eco boost. The transmission will slip into a lower gear (higher rpm's) when I am at speeds below 50. Doesn't do it all the time. It also slips into those lower gears when I am going over hills or going down hills. Any help on my basic description would be appreciated brother. Thanks.
I am having this same problem. I walked out in my car is still under an extended warranty for another like 500 miles. I keep taking it before and they're like oh it's operating as normal but it definitely catches and shifts not how it should.
@@rx2powersports exactly. The Ford dealerships around me (NE Ohio) keep giving me the run around. I call and the guy tells me it’s covered for another 5,000 (which it would then be at 60,000 miles) and then I go there and I have to pay almost 200$$ for the inspection and also they tell me it hasn’t been covered since passing 35k miles. Complete bullshit. Then I have a guy take it for a ride (that works at the dealership and had been fixing fords for 30 years) and even couldn’t diagnose it. I think they are great cars but the dealerships are horse shit
Also, that finger tight on the fill plug was the case with mine from the factory. Not gonna be an issue, doesnt really tighten on all that well, snugging it is all you can do
Great video and thanks. Is there a washer for the transmission drain plug? I've heard of people using a liquid teflon sealer on it. Did you use any sealer?
Welp. The 6F35 transmission has lifetime fluid in it. It never needs changing. Scheduled maintenance on those transmissions are at 35,000 miles replace the transmission. Yup. You heard it here first folks. The 6F35 transmissions are wildly problematic. As a matter of fact most all Ford transmissions today are of the 35,000 mile throw away nature. I recommend trading in or selling these newer Ford's while they're still under warranty to eliminate your financial liability to replace a $5,000 transmission or $7,000 engine. Lifetime Ford guy here. My next new Ford will be a 1995 or before. Stay away from modular engines also. All newer Ford engines are modular since right around 1996. Still a Ford guy but I'll stick with the old stuff.
To check the oil level you did it wrong It have to be driven to get the transmission temperature up so you can check the fluid and when the temperature is up the fuild will expand so most likely you overfilled your car . I just did it to day and it took 3 and 3/4 quarts
Have the same car with the 2.5 & I have almost 60,000 miles I’m debating whether to change out the fluid soon or not. I feel like if I do it soon I won’t have big issues down the road
It should be. I think they all use 6F35 transmissions unless you have a manual gearbox. Just make sure that you have the fill port and the port on the side to see the level.
I also saw in my manual that it takes 9.0qt. As others have said, that’s if the thing is completely drained after pulling it. It’s only an extra $25 so I’m thinking of doing the drain and fill a second time after driving it around the block to mix the old with the new. Then I know I’ve got about 75% new fluid in there as opposed to only 50%. These Ford transmissions are garbage so it’s a bit of peace of mind for me.
A drain and fill only removes fluid in the pan. The other 4.5 quarts or so is still in the lines, trans cooler and torque converter. You need to do multiple drains to clear out most of the old fluid.
