Great demonstration. I believe the "reverse and slam on brake" method will turn the star wheel for corolla. The issue is we rarely do that when we drive. (You do not need to fully press the brake to make car stop just as you said) AND every time you slam the brake, it will only turn the star wheel one click. The self adjustment cannot catch up the worn out of the brake shoes. For example, you might need 40 "slam" to perfectly adjust the brake shoes after your 30K miles. But you only did 20 slam. So you have to do the 20 clicks manually.
Hi Steve, I don't think the brake shoes care which way the drum is rotating - forwards or backwards. It's all the same for the piston pushing the shoes apart. What I was trying to show (didn't work that well) is that the shoes don't move enough, to have the self adjusting mechanism move far enough, to make the star wheel rotate. I hope I did show that in this design, the handbrake will not adjust the brakes. Should be able to get the mechanism moving statically, without the car moving, just pushing down hard on the pedal, even with the engine off (booster off). Should be able to hear that tell tale click. Hmmm, interesting??? I wonder if I could set up an experiment to see what the auto adjusters can do if I back off the star wheel all the way. 1. Can I get the adjuster to click that way? 2. How much slack is there when the clicking stops? 3. How much adjustment do I have to put in to get the handbrake & footbrake back to the start point? P.S. The rear shoes & front pads don't seem to wear that fast. Just took a look at my daughters Corolla at 140K miles... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yS_Z9k_ArGo.html
Thank you for the video. I own a Toyota Vios/ or Yaris and i have the exact same problem with the self adjuster. I thought it should be self adjusting but no. So what's the point of having the self adjusting mechanism on the star wheel if it's not self adjusting? I've no answer too and i don't know what to do. It makes no sense to have the rear wheels adjusted when the hand brake exceeds certain click. It's troublesome. I'm trying to figure out why this happen too.
I don't know why they don't work still, but you have me thinking about it again. At 5:10 in the video, you can hear the sheet metal piece click over the star wheel. It does it once as the shoes are pushed apart, then 3 times as the shoes return. There is a bit of a clue there from the amount the shoes moved. (Would have been more obvious with the view shown at 3:54.) I think I saw the sheet metal arm move down for the single click, then back up for the 3 clicks. With a left hand thread in this right hand side adjuster, that downward motion on the inside would make the adjuster expand a little. So I think that means it put in 2 "non-clicks" of adjustment (turning the star wheel) plus one click as it slid out of the star wheel as the sheet metal arm moved down. The 3 clicks on the return would be the sheet metal arm slipping over the star wheel doing nothing. That being the case, the brakes should auto adjust - but they don't. The brakes get sloppier over time and the handbrake pulls up further and further. Note that adjusting the handbrake cable will not cure the slop, only manual turning of the adjuster wheel fixes it. Which can mean only one thing - there is a design flaw in the auto adjuster. I think the tiny amount the brake shoes move is not enough to activate auto adjustment, but the handbrake is very sensitive to the gap between the shoe and the hub. The silver lever (2:30) has about a 6:1 leverage ratio from the cable to the adjuster, perhaps this is why the handbrake lever goes up so far. I wonder how many millions of these drum brakes they have out there??
In about 2008 I bought from a local scrap yard a Toyota Carina 1987 model with 73000 miles on the clock: now 2022 it has 85000 miles. The rear brakes are exactly the same as yours. Now I think there may be a problem with the self adjusting device. Full story; I have twice HAD fitted new shoes and once about three years back new cylinders, NB NO NEW BRAKE DRUMS. Last week when I took it for its anual compulsory ROAD TEST the left rear brake cylinder BLEW OUT at one end - much break fluid every where !! £550 for new drums and all other parts. I was very fortunate this did not happen whilst I was driving !! I think the BRAKE DRUMS WEAR but one does not take this into acccount ?? How elce could a plunger pop out of a cylinder. I had noticed for some time that when I free wheeled SLOWLY this left rear brake made regular scraping noise.
I believe the clue about the self adjusters not working is how high does the handbrake laver come up: 4-6 clicks is good, 8-10 clicks or more and the adjusters are not working and need to be manually adjusted. I can't talk about your specific car but rubber seals don't last forever and that sounds like what happened with your brakes. Sometimes brand new parts have been sitting on a shelf for many years, just aging in place. Other times with an old car, exact replacement parts are not available and other similar parts get used Brake drums can wear. You may be able to detect a slight wear ridge at the inner and outer edges of braking surface. Generally, it usually not a lot, but can get to the point where it becomes hard to get the drum off because the inner ridge won't come over the brake shoes. At that point it's best to replace the drums along with the shoes. I recently checked the brakes on my daughters 2014 corolla at 140,000 miles and they are in very good condition still. I did grease up the front disk pins to keep things sliding smoothly, they will be good for a while yet.
@@jamesfederer5592 Hi James, it is the other way round for these brakes. Using the handbrake pushes the whole auto adjuster forward so there is no relative motion between the front shoe and the sheet metal piece that turns the star wheel. Using the footbrake pushes both shoes apart and activates the sheet metal piece that turns the star wheel. At 3:18 in the video, I'm pointing at a piece of the sheet metal piece that is visible. When that moves relative to the front shoe, is when the adjuster should activate. Have a buddy pull the handbrake while you watch that piece. If you have your buddy step on the footbrake, don't press too hard!
@@richbinaz I see. It really depends on the car you work on. I believe Toyota cars use handbrake mechanism to drive the adjustment. Yours is different.
@@jamesfederer5592 The designs can change over time. I still believe the auto adjusters are ineffective as the shoes just don't move enough when encased by the drum. They can get slack enough where the handbrake pulls up a long way and you get longer travel in the foot brake.
I went to do my 2005 Toyota corolla brakes and the setup was completely different then all the videos I’ve watched. I came across this 2014 corolla video and it has the same setup that’s on my 2005. Previous owners put the wrong brakes on I’m assuming? Every video of the 2005 is different then mine
Sounds odd, the PO would have to change a lot of parts I would think. Just checking the part numbers for the shoes, which is 04495-52040 for the 2000 --> 2008 Corolla and 04495-02212 for the 2009 --> 2019 corolla The parts should have part numbers on them somewhere, here's a place to start parts.olathetoyota.com/ Just put your car data in, click brakes then rear brakes and it should show you the parts you should have on the car.
@@richbinaz I have the correct parts for the 2005 and watched multiple videos but idk how the 2014 setup is on my car. Would I still be able to take it apart and put the oem parts on that I ordered?
@@Friday12321 Just checking the size of the brake drums on Rockauto.com and the 2014 drums are bigger. 228mm verses 200mm inside diameter, so I would say none of the parts are compatible. Looking on the dealer sites, all the part numbers are different.
@@richbinaz well I think they used the same drum as my car cuz it is the same size as the one I bought. But the hardware and setup is completely different
This is not obvious is it :) At time 7:00, I'm putting in some manual adjustments with the screwdriver. So for this right side wheel, I'm clicking the star wheel up, using the hub as a lever. This spreads the shoes apart The click sound comes from the sheet metal piece attached to the back of the front shoe moving over the star wheel, slipping into the next groove. The star wheel moves down relative to the sheet metal piece on the inside. So if you are adjusting thru the rubber bung hole (not shown) on the inside, move the star wheel down to spread the shoes apart. The adjustment process works the same for the left side brake because the threads inside the auto adjuster are opposite. Left Hand thread on Right side Right Hand thread on Left side
The hydraulic part is obvious, yes??? 2 pistons with fluid entering in between the pistons?? Pushing the shoes apart at the top against a fixed bottom pivot point. The fun starts with the handbrake and auto adjusters. I had originally created this video to show that "using the handbrake" did not make the auto adjusters work, as some people on a toyota forum were saying. One even came up with a picture showing that to be the case. But it was not a picture of these brakes. Just using the brakes "should" make the auto adjusters operate and take the slack out of the brakes. which may be true when new, but as the miles pile up, they appear to stop working. 2 things to look for -> extra long pedal travel and a long pull on the handbrake lever. From there, hopefully, the video explains what to look for.
