I picked up the same amp/sub set up and i wired it up with the factory 1212 plug, very easy. But i didnt have a way to use forscan and 1 of the 3 dealerships that i was able to actual talk to an advisor said $90 and soonest is 2 weeks out...yea screw that. Took a chance and wired it up exactly how you described with the same settings and it works PERFECTLY! thank you so much for making this video. Definitely recommend T-tap connectors for the speaker wires, pretty tight in there.
Where did you place the p300 ? I want that specific power sub but dimensions looked a little to large. For f150 2019. I was thinking just under rear seats on the floor maybe?
I cannot begin to tell you how helpful this was!! Thank you for making this video. The only thing I did differently was the speaker location and anchoring the speaker. I too had trouble with the speaker wire reaching the passenger side, so instead of splicing more wire, I moved the speaker to the center of the backseat. That gave me just enough length to reach. I ended up anchoring he speaker to the back bulkhead carpet because everytime I stepped on the brakes, the speaker would flop around.....so annoying. With that said, GREAT VIDEO!!
I've been googling and searching for days now for exactly the same answers as yours , only difference is that in my case I bought 2 different brands of active subwoofers ( WITHOUT REALISING THE KICKER IS SAME VIDEO, BUT THE " ICE " SUB ONLY HAS RCA INPUTS ) So can I connect 1 sub through RCA to main unit AND then connect the kicker through the speaker wires?
You need to get the signal from the front speakers, the rears don't get the full signal that the fronts get. The signal to the rears get bass cut out as the volume is increased. Otherwise thanks for the video
I second this I just installed my amp/sub two days ago and was getting minimal Bass. Almost returned it to amazon but then I saw your commend and I spliced into the front speaker wires and the quality of base is much better. Thank you alkalk8938
Wires are included 👍 *wire harness is included, but you might need to buy a cable to extend the speaker wires to stereo if you are thinking about hard wiring.
I was thinking of putting 2 of these in my extended cab f150. Is it required to have both speakers wired into one sub? Is it possible to just wire the driver side wires to the driver side sub and vice versa for the passenger side wires for the passenger side sub?
I've been googling and searching for days now for exactly the same answers as yours , only difference is that in my case I bought 2 different brands of active subwoofers ( WITHOUT REALISING THE KICKER IS SAME VIDEO, BUT THE " ICE " SUB ONLY HAS RCA INPUTS ) So can I connect 1 sub through RCA to main unit AND then connect the kicker through the speaker wires?
Wouldn’t you tap the stock subwoofer signals? After the dsm so you dont mess with the comoonants each door speaker and stuff is a component coming from the Sony dsp that’s filters everything. You def should have tapped after the stock amp and from the subwoofer signal
Butt splices are NOT a hack, that's exactly what you should be using on any automotive wiring. NEVER solder; the constant vibration of a vehicle will eventually cause solder joints to crack. That's why NASA uses crimp splices for spacecraft. You just need to make sure you use a proper crimper and make sure it's the right type for the splice you're using! I had to buy a different crimper for heat-shrink insulated connectors versus non-heat shrink. And always use ratcheting crimpers, they will always provide higher clamping force.
2020 F150 - After I tapped into the Right Rear Speaker wires (+/-), my check engine light comes on, the error states “Malfunction Indicator Lamp - Regulatory: Powertrain Control Module has detected the power relay de-energized earlier than expected”. I followed your video exactly, I triple checked the wiring. Funny thing is, I tested the sub while only Left was wired in, and it sounded great and no engine light. Any thoughts/ideas?
@@IdleHands turns out my Right Rear positive t-tap didn’t actually tap into the wire. The PCM noticed something wasn’t right and threw that error. Fixed the issue and the system is bumping! Thanks again for your video!
@@IdleHands New problem, I keep blowing the 40amp fuse in the 12V power wire… I just used butt splice connector for this. What are you using? What do you recommend? This is the only thing I can see that might be causing the issue.
I just checked my truck and i do hae the connector back there. If I purchase the pigtail, what wiring will that take care of? also do u have a wiring diagram of how it should connect to the amp pigtail? what other connectors will i need?
Anyone else have the issue where the amp won’t turn off after turning off the truck, removing the key and exiting the vehicle, Blue light stays on, I’m afraid of it draining my battery. Even though I’m having issues, still the best video on the HS-10 install.
So i installed mine this same way. I have a android head unit as well. for some reason the sub works great when i play music from internet apps pandora etc, or off of my phone. But for some reason the signal goes away when i use the trucks am/fm radio, or the factory Sirius Radio. There is no sound whatsoever coming from Sub in these two situations. Does yours do that or did i do something wrong?
The DC option on the Amplifier basically knows when the stereo is on because of the speakers being active so that acts as the blue wire, if you use RCA cables then you need the Blue wire
I want to add a second subwoofer to my truck but don’t want a crap ton of extra money in this system. Can I do this on top of my Sony sound system with the stock subwoofer?
My 2014 f150 has a stock sub as well. Best Buy won't touch the truck due to a small amp wired in to the Sony system from the factory. They said a preloaded sub will ruin the Sony amp. Don't know if there's any truth to what they said, may have just wanted to not do it
You should. The power wire should be fused within 12 inches of the battery end. The fuse on the amp protects the amplifier internals, and the fuse on the power feed protects the wire itself. A short in cable that large can start a fire pretty quickly, and that battery-end fuse is your protection against that.
Didn’t change my he factory settings but I did mess with the settings on the unit itself. I also changed all the other speakers in the truck so that helped.
The truck is aluminum the ground needs to go to the frame or battery not the body. Also tieing it to the speaker wires wont work for the sub the radio cuts the bass as the volume goes up.
Anyone else have the issue where your truck has the wpt12 with no signal or power? Ive read forums and watched other videos to enable it in forscan with no success. Im about to bypass it entirely and lean on this video.
So I have an amp an subwoofer, it has direct power connection to the battery but I recently got a new radio installed and they didn’t hook up the amp. Can I use this same method in the video to give my amp signal?
I don't understand why people run RCA's from the stereo or tap into speaker speaker wires. There's literally a wiring harnessed in the left side rear pillar. Just get your signal there and run power. It even has a remote turn on wire(blue). You just need a motorcraft wcc 1212 harness plug, Amazon 22 bucks. To use the remote turn on you have to turn it on with forscan or the Ford dealer if you don't have DC offswitch
You sir….are clipping hard. You have your bass boost all the way up and your gains almost half….when using bass boost the gain comes down and if you turn down your bass boost your gain goes up. Play a 40hz test tone, turn your bass knob all the way up then set you bass boost to where ever you want and then start to set your gain, once you hear the bass sound different turn your gains down until it goes away.
Once again another video showing sub install but no sub playing music, im starting to think these guys just do these videos for the views, how do we know the speaker wires are correct when he didnt even play music thru it?
