Anyone else have the issue where your truck has the wpt12 with no signal or power? Ive read forums and watched other videos to enable it in forscan with no success. Im about to bypass it entirely and lean on this video.
Butt splices are NOT a hack, that's exactly what you should be using on any automotive wiring. NEVER solder; the constant vibration of a vehicle will eventually cause solder joints to crack. That's why NASA uses crimp splices for spacecraft. You just need to make sure you use a proper crimper and make sure it's the right type for the splice you're using! I had to buy a different crimper for heat-shrink insulated connectors versus non-heat shrink. And always use ratcheting crimpers, they will always provide higher clamping force.
BuiltRight Industries makes a nylon loop adapter to go onto the rear seat latch. It's a must-have for every F-150 owner. Gives you a nice nylon strap which connects to a plastic piece that goes over that nub, and all held in place with a steel plate. Took me 5 minutes to install. Check them out I highly recommend.
I don't understand why people run RCA's from the stereo or tap into speaker speaker wires. There's literally a wiring harnessed in the left side rear pillar. Just get your signal there and run power. It even has a remote turn on wire(blue). You just need a motorcraft wcc 1212 harness plug, Amazon 22 bucks. To use the remote turn on you have to turn it on with forscan or the Ford dealer if you don't have DC offswitch
I'm timing my 1980 shovelhead so I don't I'm not sure about the line or the circle I'm not sure if it's early 80 or late 80 but do you do anything with the advanced mechanism or just leave it alone alone ..
How do you address correcting the difference between having diffrent point gap size from the front and rear point cam lobes? How do you makenthem both read the same gap?
What’s up man! Appreciate the video. I can’t find the page on the link in description for the gas tank bracket, could you by chance send me something similar to what you have In the video? Thanks brother, you earned yourself a sub.
Usually I see people instal the seal on the spacer and then instal onto the trans together I’m guessing with this spacer you need to install onto the trans first then the seal ?
I picked up the same amp/sub set up and i wired it up with the factory 1212 plug, very easy. But i didnt have a way to use forscan and 1 of the 3 dealerships that i was able to actual talk to an advisor said $90 and soonest is 2 weeks out...yea screw that. Took a chance and wired it up exactly how you described with the same settings and it works PERFECTLY! thank you so much for making this video. Definitely recommend T-tap connectors for the speaker wires, pretty tight in there.
Looks good except for the silicon on the outside of the seal. The instructions on a semi trailer wheel seal installation says "DO NOT use silicone on the outside of the wheel seal. Wheel seals and your tranny seal is basically the same.
Where did you place the p300 ? I want that specific power sub but dimensions looked a little to large. For f150 2019. I was thinking just under rear seats on the floor maybe?
Thanks, love this video. I’m getting ready to adjust 1970 Shovel hydraulic lifters. How do you know that you’re on the compression stroke or TDC? Does that matter? Or just get the lifter on the lowest part of the cam? Thanks for posting.
@@IdleHands more to the point. I don’t have the pushrods in yet. Without the valves opening and closing wouldn’t it feel like all up strokes are compression? Maybe I’m over thinking this. Thanks for the help
