I keep getting ideas from your videos, thanks for the details on the videos. One question what do you think on the relays with the integrated ATC fuse ?
They are fine to use, but if you are doing the fuse panel already they are not needed since the second fuse would be redundant and you would have to check two fuses when a circuit issue arises.
I had the fuse block ground going to the battery but it can go to chassis ground if you prefer. ANd the grounds for the relay's went to the fuse block grounds, but they to can go to chassis if you prefer. it was just easier to ground them at the block.
M Steen you should run 4ga or bigger to be safe. I used smaller gauge and changed the circuit breaker to lower amps since I was not maxing out the panel. If you use 4 gauge, you could use copper terminals and a continuous duty solenoid Instead of the relay. It will wire up the same but it will have studs you can bolt the terminals to. Solder the copper studs to the 4 ga cable also, don't just crimp them...
What gauge wire do you have coming from the 80 amp relay to the fuse box??? I have the relay but am having trouble finding a connector for the larger blade and a 6-8 gauge wire...
Joe Eaton depending on the amperage you are setting up for, you should be running 8 gauge minimum, 4 ga preferred. Probably easier to go to a continuous duty solenoid so you get stud terminals so you can use copper eyelets on the cable...
Thank you for the quick reply! Is the yellow wire you used a 6 gauge? How did you make that connection from the relay to the fuse box? I’m trying to replicate that part of your setup.
Joe Eaton those wires were actually part of the plug that came with the relay. Frankly, the wires are a bit small being around 10 gauge. I would go bigger to be safe. If you want that plug, they are on eBay but make sure they are for 60 amp + so they have the bigger spade terminals....
TW Kustoms my thoughts are this... if I wanted to use a 4 awg from the battery to the main 80A relay, then it would seem senseless if the relay only has 10 awg wires. Also, why have the 80A relay at all if you have a breaker next the the battery and all your circuits have small relays? Couldn’t you just run a 4 awg cable to the fuse box directly?
Where are you drawing your power for your switches?? Can you email diagram? I have rocker switches that need power and need to see where you draw from!
if you are using the fuse block, the same fuse will protect the accessory and the switch. wire the switch and accessory power to the same fuse block terminal. If you are not using a fuse panel, a 5 amp fuse is sufficient for the switch if it's just running as a trigger for the relay and not powering the accessory directly.
yep, same power from the fuse block can supply both. in a relay situation, You should already have one wire coming from the fuse block to pin 30 (supply) of the relay. So you add another wire from the same terminal of the fuse block to the switch input. Output from the switch would go to pin 85 or 86 depending on how it's wired up. One of those terminals gets grounded (either one), so the switch output goes to the open terminal (85 or 86) to complete the circuit activating the relay. Hope that makes sense.
So power is directly going to the relay via the circuit breaker. The my accessory switch is drawing power from the fuse block and then going from the switch to the one side of the relay and the other side of relay is grounded. And the very top terminal is going to the fuse block. If this is correct I understand. The only question is with the relay getting power from the circuit breaker via the battery the middle terminal is hot without using the switch correct, but by using the accessory switch connected it cancel it out and then allows the power distributed to the fuse block via the top terminal of the relay is this correct. Cause I am confused that the switch is just an interrupter of power and has a power wire going to it and coming out of it. So I guess the best question is where the power to the switch coming from and then where is the power wire from the switch going. My guess is that the power from the switch is going to the terminal top connection.
I had a huge paragraph written about the relay and when I clicked "submit" it was lost. So I am re writing it here lol. Anyway, there are 2 circuits in a relay. One circuit controls the magnetic coil in the relay. This is controlled by pin 85 and 85 (power and ground) That is all those two terminal do. If that circuit is UNpowered, the coil is in one position, and that position connects pin 30 and pin 87a (Center). WHen they are POWERED, the coil is magnetized moving the connection to pin 87 (Top) from pin 30. So, pin 30 is your battery power from the circuit breaker. Whether it goes to pin 87a or 87 depends on whether the coil is energized by the pin 85 and 86 circuit. Remember, pin 87a is not used in this application. that wire can be removed. Hope that makes sense.
That's makes perfect sense. So if I use a switch to magnetize the coil and thus energize pin 87 from 87a to power and accessory or this case I want to power the fuse block. Where is the power coming from to supply the switch then sending it to the coil to energize the coil. That is my hang up. Is it takin from the fuse block? Cause pin 30 is getting its power from the battery. I am trying isolate the fuse block by the switch. Thus controlling when the block is powered on. I am visual and maybe a drawing would be the answer to some of us. I understand the operation of the relays inter working but supplying the power to the fuse block is my hang up. I get that I am good as gold.
AHHHH ok, I got you now. So the power for the switch (to run the fuse block with the key off) comes from the factory Polaris bus bar 12 CONSTANT positive to the switch then from the switch to pin 85. and if you want it to come on with the key also, you would run another wire from the Polaris bus bar ACCESSORIES 12v terminal WITH A DIODE in it (silver ring towards the relay) to pin 85 also. So in this scenario pin 85 has TWO wires to it. The diode keeps the 12v power from backfeeding into the factory bus bar when you turn the switch on. VERY important you put this in. It can just be crimped inline in the wire. Hopefully that clears everything up lol. ;)
Feniex Cobra T3 in amber for the 2 corner lights, Feniex Fusion T6 w/180 degree lens in amber/white for the upper lights, and a Feniex flasher module...
