Let’s test and see what my engine sounds like. Just ticking from the direct injection part of the new dual-fuel system? Infamous Coyote BBQ tick? Piston slap? Or something more severe?
Everything sounds normal to me. I think most Mustang folks just aren't used to direct injection sounds. My BRZ used to have the engine chirp bad, sounded like a full-on cricket invasion on a summer night lol. This is much milder. People are expecting the Bullitt to have even more noise since there's no engine cover like the regular GTs. If the car is running good, don't worry about it. If a failure is imminent, it's gonna happen anyway so I'd recommend everyone worried about this to just drive normally until something actually happens. Most likely nothing will.
If the rattle is at idle, it’s not the GDI injectors. The Ford dual injection system is port injection only at idle. The port injectors run all the time, but GDI is added as load and speed increases. At wide open redline, GDI is about 90% of the fuel delivery, but is 0% at idle.
Matt Maran Motoring my Honda Civic has the same tick. It’s the DI injectors just super loud. It goes away on deceleration. Makes sense because they do not spray fuel
A lot of you guys don't seem to know what DI sounds like. It will sound metallic. It's normal. Plus it is a 4 cam 32v motor. There will be lots of noise with a motor like this as to compared to a SOHC V8 like the Chevy Camaro/Corvette V8. But they tick in a metallic fashion too.
It’s a direct injection engine. That’s the noise they make. My 2013 Mk6 Volkswagen Gti has a direct injection 2.0 turbo and makes the same sounds even though it’s only a 4 cylinder and Ive been beating the absolute piss out it for 65,000 miles since brand new with no engine issues. I wouldn’t worry about your engine to much. As for the “ piston slap” you hear. You shouldn’t be putting to much load on the engine in the wrong gear especially in direct injection engines. Whenever I do it in my car that’s when the weird noises happen. Besides the constant ticking. I would be more worried about the shift forks in the transmission before worrying about blowing the engine.
All Direct injection motors and with VVT engines will make a ticking sound including the 4 cylinder turbo motors, make sure you have 10 quarts of oil in your motor.
Got it. Already did a PSA video warning people of the 10 quarts thing when I changed my oil for the first time a few months ago. Luckily I double-checked before doing it.
My 2017 had the whole long block replaced under warranty. New motor started doing it after first oil change :/ I extended my warranty and I’m not going to worry about until it doesn’t go anymore.
I think the more common issues reported are with the 18 mt82 aluminum bending parts that were forged steel on prior models.... The problem in this vid could be related to needing a thicker oil viscosity...
It is a brand new car and I wouldn't expect anything serious is wrong with it. I would just continue driving it like you want and it is under warranty if anything real serious fails. This is coming from a Mopar guy and you have a very nice car and sounds fine to me. Enjoy it!
RU-vid is full of guys with 'stangs' beating the hell out of them at the dragstrip, then moaning like a bitch when something breaks. They are still just street cars?
The 2018 Coyote engine has 32 valves/rocker arms/lifters, four camshafts/sprockets, four timing chains, and 16 injectors so that's enough heavy metal to make some noise. Just make sure the engine has its 10 quarts of oil as the stealership might have mistakenly only put in 8 quarts at the last oil change (2015-2017 Coyote takes 8 quarts).
Yep. Already made a video about the oil a few months ago and it blew so many people’s minds. There have been a few guys online posting about only getting 8 quarts for the oil change. That’ll be a common mistake for the while, I think. Luckily I didn’t have that issue as I researched before doing the first oil change. You have stay on top of engine changes and tech changes these days!
I noticed you mentioned you already had your oil changed. If this was done at the dealership, make sure they put the right amount of oil in the car. 2018 5.0's take 10 qts, Not 8 qts like the 15-17's. This happened to me a few days ago, and it's happened to other people as well. If you still have your invoice, check it out. I didn't catch it until I got the car home and looked at the dip stick after cooling off. On another note, most cars have noisey engines these days. My 2010 Camaro made all types of weird noises but ran fine with almost 100k miles on it. The internet is spooking some people I think.
Thanks for the input, buddy. I changed my oil with 10quarts! Luckily I checked on a whim before the change figuring “I’m sure it’s the same” and I caught saw that the 18s need 10 instead of 8.
trewon1 yeah man I’ve already seen videos where people brought their 2018 mustangs in for an oil change and only got 8 quarts instead of 10 quarts I guess these idiots can’t tell the difference between a 2018 or a 15 through 17 mustang??? Games & gears keep your eyes on these “technicians “
@@IMGONEIN60 i highly doubt the dlr is putting in 8 qts in stead of 10. I work at a dlr as a mgr and all shop books say 10 qts for 2018 Mustang V8. It would be a HUGE liability for not only the dealer but Ford as well. I have yet to see anyone with paperwork from the dealer showing 8 qts. If it is ink on paper then there is a problem. Oh wait i think there was 1 guy that had a receipt. But several people had their dlr finally look in the engine with a boroscope snd bad cylinder scaring waa found. Fuel, different pumps, valves etc will all make consistent noises. The cars with the metal on metal clacking from the underside of passenger side of the mustang's that I have heard and there are only about 5-7, have a sporadic, uneven, inconsistent noise. Those are the ones that are a potential issue.
08turboSS that’s good and all but I’ve already seen several guys on RU-vid saying that their 18 mustang got 8 quarts put in at the dealership instead of 10 look it up...
Byron Kurka thanks for clearing that up man I appreciate it, it seems like some people object to dealerships or technicians making mistakes? Someone could easily mistake and 18 mustang for a 17 if they are in a hurry...
These newer engines were not meant to be beaten on as hard as I've seen some do. Plus, a new engine needs to be broken in properly, which means no full throttle till at least 300-400 miles so the Valves seat properly and enough heat cycles occur to get the seals and gaskets sealed nicely. As for the MT82 complaints, bending shift forks comes from one thing: bad drivers beating the crap out of the vehicle. And if the forks bend or break, then the syncros can go bad. Folks, you must let the engine warm up at least 30% before driving from a cold start too, no matter what transmission you have, its fluid is as thick as oil and needs decent temperatures before quality shifting of gears will/can occur... And check the oil often, if you beat on the car. If your a quart or more low every 1500 miles or less, your being way to hard on the engine. I beat on my 13 & 14 GT only a few times a week, not every time I drove them or every day of the week. The Transmission and clutch held up fine till I sold them at 50k miles. I also never had to add more than a quarter to half a quart of oil every 5000 miles and the oil was still fairly clear. Not new and fresh but not to far off.
Direct injected motors are noisier, but I will keep posting this.....switch to Schaeffers or Lubrication Engineers oil and don't look back. All aluminum engines will transmit more internal engine noise as aluminum expands and contracts at a higher rate than cast iron, so as it warms up the tolerances tighten up. But the oil is everything. Call either one and get a recommendation.
This motor sounds okay so far. It has been a case of the inconsistent metallic sound under passenger side of car behind frt wheel that needs to be listened for. It could take 7 to 10k miles to show up.
Mine didn't sound like this at first but now it sounds like a diesel and when it's cold it does that damn barbecue tick sound that's so Infamous with the 5.0 liter. I had a 2014 that did this and I had to have the motor Replaced. I'm really hoping I don't I have to replace the motor in my 2018 it was a $50,000 car. The issue that surrounds the 5.0 for some reason is called a inherent cylinder geometry issue where you get excessive piston slap that causes scoring on the cylinder walls. I try to tell everyone if you really think you have an issue with piston slap have the dealer do a borescope and see if there's damage to the cylinder walls and they will replace the motor.
If anything that’s not piston slap. Sounds more like the timing components to me. But that’s the nature of chain driven V8s. My 13 5.0 has done it since new with only synthetic oil in it. AND you still have a warranty. All is well.
My '18 GT got "the rattle" at around 300 miles, was not there during test drive or drive home~180 miles. It got progressively worse as the miles stacked up. I am proactive on M6G about this issue.
Got rid of the GT for a "18 1SS. Noise was getting worse up to the 1800 miles when traded. Also, after first oil change(OEM fluids) I developed the very familiar "BBQ tick" as well. I was sick of my car sounding like a jar of marbles with a tick to boot. So loud to where I was nervous they werent going to take it on trade. Luckily they never fired it up before paperwork was complete. Even if the noises are "normal", the car sounded like complete shit. Im no fan boy or brand loyal, but the SS seems like its in a completely different league...imo.
Blade979 Did you trade it in or do a buyback? I'm gonna give them a chance to fix it, the tick I don't think is troublesome what I think is problematic however is a metallic fluttering noise coming on around 2000-2500 rpm and as long as your in that rpm range it'll stick around. If they don't want to replace the motor I'll lemon it and get a new gen Supra or a sixth gen SS.
Xhoni Filo I love the car and have put some money into it but issues like piston slap shouldn't be prevalent in a brand new car. Like I said I'll give them a chance if they refuse and try to void the warranty because I'm tuned, which is stupid in it's own right considering said sounds were prevalent before I started modding the car and were not there when I initially purchased the car ill use the Magnuson moss act and have the burden on them to prove that exhaust work and a tune caused the issues although bone stock people are having the exact same issues showing up at very similar mile marks. I have all the proof I need and some, with multiple people on forums and on RU-vid having the exact same issues.
Sounds normal to me. Like someone else said, drive it and enjoy it. If something is really wrong with the motor it’ll happen long before the warranty is expired.
My 18 does the ticking sound at cold start told my dealer they said it’s normal... idk what to really make of it like you stated it’s been going booth ways some dealers say it’s normal others say it’s not I know ppl who have gotten there whole short and long blocks replaced over the issue. I’m just gonna drive my car till they say otherwise... that’s what. Warranties are for I guess 🤞🤷🏻♂️
Same tic for my 2020 Mustang When it cold no tic when warm it start to tic passenger valve cover I think it's The cam phaser ..I dont have The bbq tic or piston slap..it come from The head not The base ,when it cold quiet no tic ,warm constant tic And when a give rpm 1000 no tic oil pressure Help,so I dont think it's a big problème,I change My opg for the supercharger And I find nothing spéciale so pédal to The métal And I Will see 😎
Your engine sounds fine. I started that engine rattle thread and you can listen to my videos and see the cylinder scoring in #2 and #8 which is why Ford replaced my short block and several other GTs. Loudest rattle usually happens in 3rd gear at 2200 rpm.
From my research mechanics at Ford dealerships performing oil service are mistakenly using the old data from the 2017 engine and putting in 8 quarts of oil instead of the 10 quarts that is mandatory, stated in the handbook for the 2018 mustang. This makes the engine rattle like that since obviously their isn't enough oil being distributed through the engine block causing the pistons to slap the sidewalls. Not putting in enough oil can cause other noises as well like a popcorn popping sound effect as well as a number of other issues.
I had an engine rattle since new in my 2014 GT 5.0 only when fully warm. Nothing ever came of it, over 30 track days and 20K miles when I trade it in.. It never went away either.
Oh no, I hope yours is ok. When I had my 18, I beat on that car like crazy and never had any tranny issues or engine tick. I can def hear yours ticking and it sounds very loud. Mine sounded nothing like that. Coyote engines can tick some and thats ok. Dont be too scared to drive it, you have a warranty. If it gets worse, then you may have an issue. (EDIT) I listened again and most of it sounds ok through headphones, some of it you can really hear some slapping going on. Not sure if normal or not and mine did not sound like that.
I’d just drive it until something breaks or the noise gets worse. Every engine has its unique noise and this is a new engine. My Hemi likes to tick like a clock but when I step on it roars to life.
Make sure they put 10 qts of oil on oil changes pet owners manual. Apparently dealers have only been putting 8qts . 15-17 GT’s take 8 qts and dealers had no clue that Ford made the 18’s to take 10
Yep! Already did a PSA video warning people of the 10 quarts thing when I changed my oil for the first time a few months ago. Luckily I double-checked before doing it.
I Don't Know About the Coyote motor , But on an older push rod V8 I would say Double Check the Valve Lash .. The Cold start sounds like a valve tic . Maybe the Lash isn't Quite right , This is a Twin over head cam motor ,should have no lifters to pump up...Weird Right ?
With no working knowledge of the coyote engine, It sounds like a cam roller follower tick that Ford 3 valve modular engines are notorious for. The problem on those engines was exasperated by using too thin oil, defective timing chain tensioner seals that bled off oil pressure and a weak factory oil pump. It does not sound like a injector tick to my 30year ASE technician ears. What oil is ford recommending? Longevity on the 3 valve was increased by switching from 5w-20 to 5w-30.
My 97 gt 4.6 at 197,000 miles sounds the same. Every ford I've owned ticks. 98 expedition 5.4l. 00 crown Victoria interceptor 4.6. 97 cobra , 97 mark 8 4.6. 90 gt 5.0. 04 f150 5.4... every 1 ticked.
Take it to the dealer and have a RO open reporting the problem, this is not a normal sound, and if it is not taken care off you will have a major repair or a.breakdown soon, I suspect either an oil pump related problem or a timing chain related problem !
Dude this thing sounds like crap. I have a 392 Hemi and my engine doesn’t click anywhere near as loud as this. And it’s a Hemi.... it invented loud ticking.
I have the exact same noise.. did anything ever come up about it?? Being 4yrs later. Ford said it was the VCT solenoids when cold will make that noise. I'm gonna try un plugging mine on a cold start and see
Your car ocd is kicking in...These engines can tick. All of my coyotes (had 4 of them) made some noises. If something actually fails (unlikely) due to a factory defect, warranty will take care of it.
I'd change the oil. That dont solve it then it's for sure injectors. Most injectors will make ticking noise especially in break in period sometimes a little longer and in many cases forever. Honest opinion its injectors.
It has 16 injectors and a direct injection pump, its normal for this system, if you ever popped the hood of a bmw v8 you will get a much worse sound that sounds similar. dont worry its just pumping horses in there
i,m not a mechanic. but I do work on my own cars. I use to own a 68 pony here in new Zealand it was a 2v. I put a 600 holly and victor manifold on it. I got a aftermarket vac secondery for the holly. [ assembled 68 ,feb, san josie. it had a 67 gas cap. the change over was still happening for the year] I had the c4 rebuilded.the vavle body was modify. which my hot rod auto mechanic found out.
My 2019 GT has the rattle/tick. Sounds like a diesel at idle. Took it to Ford and they said it is completely normal for the 5.0... It sounds terrible ):
Let me ask you this , does the noise go away when the car it’s fully warm ? If it does you are ok otherwise take it in n get second opinion but just keep enjoying your car they are the best GT ever ! So far I got like 50+ 1/4 runs lol the car only has 6500 miles n it does have some noise when it’s cold like a piston slap n ticking noise but when fully warm piston slap goes away n ticking it’s really minimum good luck .
Like the video. Wish you'd let it warm up longer. Maybe remove the cover and pan over and under the engine. I hear nothing horrible but I know from recording my own engine when it's hot and quiet when I play back the video it sounds worse than it did live. I own a 2020 pp1 and used to be a Ford tech. I have concerns with mine but until I definitely know I have an issue I'm not bringing a brand new car or a used car in to be worked on under flat rate warranty times. How about an update on your cars status.
Didn’t say it bothered me... not once. I said people are having problems (or think they are), I think it’s the new DI system, and here’s my engine’s sound for comparison’s sake. Done.
I see your problem. At 4:38-4:45. Look at your own video here. Look just below and left of the coolant overflow tank or up slightly to the right of your oil cap, in the belt/radiator fan area. It looks like your fan is hitting something, flashing to the speed of the ticking sound.
I'm just wondering just how many of you mustang gt owners actually let the engine get broke-in before you dog the shit out of the car. I'm guessing not many. Smoking tires, red lining the engine with or without a load.
G that is not normal even for a ford the last time i heard a engine sound that bad it had to be replaced. You bought a F. O.R. D. Thats found on road dead . Take it back and get a engine put in it .and gl you will need it.
I have a 17 and engine ticking developed around 3,000 miles. 9,000 miles later, im over it and dropped it off at the dealership. After 3 weeks of diagnosing, they found a minute play on the crankshaft bearings and replaced the short block.
It's fine. I have a 2009 shelby gt500 that has a similar ticking noise on cold start, but goes away after 1 minute or so. Numerous times at the track for years, and beating on it on the streets, and it's still going strong.
Curious what octane fuel are you running? I had what I would call a “lifter knock” until I started to run premium exclusively. Added a can of Seafoam once in a while and went away. As far as “ticking”. I have had a 2016, 2017 and now a 2018 5.0 GT and they had a little “ticking”..I even had a new engine put into my 2016 at 14k due to a cylinder burning excessive oil. It was replaced by ford engineering as they wanted my original engine back to tear down and see the cause.
Thanks for the input. I’m running Shell 93 and have been for pretty much the entire time I’ve owned the car. I’m still thinking the ticking is just the new GDI system. Between the injectors and pump, I know these new GDIs tick loudly. I’ll likely take it in and just see what the dealership thinks, and maybe have them snake a camera in and check the walls, but I’m not too concerned right now. It runs like a champ.
Engine rattle confirmed to be piston slap and excessive wear in this case: themustangsource.com/forums/f806/2018-gt-rattle-transmission-clutch-engine-confirmed-service-tech-545442/
I think 10w40 oil will fix the noises. Sounds like a friggen diesel motor. Pretty horrible. If you are not three quarts low on oil a nation wide recall mandating 5w40 or 10w40 recommendation by Ford Motor Company.
Doesn’t sound normal to me. My 2017 GT ticks for a good while after it’s been started up from cold then it goes away after a while of driving. I have videos on my channel. My tick sounds different than yours and mine doesn’t do it at idle so far.
I've heard race engines with solid lifter valve trains that don't tap as loud as yours! I would make Ford at least check the bottom end of your engine. The tapping comes and goes too, certainly not normal.
Wow does it even have any oil pressure! Last thing I heard that sounded like that had a spun bearing. I built hundreds of engines and over a thousand trani's and that shit ain't right
Benjamin Kline engines aren’t built different nowadays, the have as much fuel pressure as a diesel, much higher pressure across the board, complex overhead cam systems can make things noisy, both my 15 Silverado and my 17 raptor make that much noise.
i'm A honda guy but i do like mustags to tho. Man im sorry you have to go through this bro. I couldn't imagine buying a car for this much and having to worry about something wrong with it.
There is definitely something wrong. That is not normal for a GDI engine and you are having issues with piston slap and or main bearings of some kind. If I were you I would not put this off and make sure you go in with a lot of documentation to your Ford dealer because they are going to try to screw you big time. If they don't resolve this I would trade this as soon as possible
I have been watching a lot of these videos about problems with the 18 mustang GT. There is one common thread that seems to run thru all these problems. Running the living shit out these cars before a proper break in period. I have seen guys on the street and on the strip, Redlining these on every run and every shift. Hell, I just seen a vid of a guy redlining his GT past 9,000 RPM's with less than 100 miles on it. Mine runs perfect. My brothers runs perfect. His daughters runs perfect. But we never got on them hard until they had a good 10,000 to 12,000 miles on them. Hell you are not even getting optimum fuel milage or performance until you reach 20,000 miles. I believe most of these problems are "not" Ford's fault or design defects but of the owners own making. Instead of blaming Ford. Granted, there are a couple TSB's out there on them but that's not uncommon for cars that go thru design changes. As for the catastrophic failures, maybe some of you should look in the mirror and just admit, "I" broke my car" ! My first car was a 1958 Fairlane 500 that I bought in 64 when I was a teenager. I have owned Ford's all my life. With a couple of Olds 442's along the way. Believe me, "anything can be broken" it all depends on how you treat it.
I broke in the car just fine, but the main thing here is that I’ve already done video updates and the car is running fine and was just looked over by a Ford Tech and given a clean bill of health. Lastly, I hope you’re not lumping me in with the people you’re claiming are blaming Ford. I go out of my way NOT to blame them and think they usually make a great product. I try to avoid those hyperbolic/ranting videos people love to make when their car has the smallest (possible) problem.
Not at all man. This just happened to be where I landed when I decided to make a comment about the so called problems with GT. If you had an issue, (resolved I hope) then you yourself have probably seen a lot of the videos that I mentioned. And you got to admit there are a lot of hot dogs and nitwits out there that are complaining about the cars that they themselves have abused. I, in no way lump you in with that bunch. Like I said, If you beat it hard enough, anything will break! Good luck with your GT they are great and beautiful automobiles ! (Go Blue Oval) !
