2020 Chevrolet Silverado 3.0 Duramax Diesel Under Body and Engine Bay Details including some service items and recognition of key components in the emissions system.
Hi, I’m a ME student and will soon graduate. This engine looks to be one of the best engines: 34-35 mpg fuel economy, clean in-Line 6 build, less vibration and sound. I’m glad GMC tests there engines more than other manufacturers.
Thanks for the great tour Guy. You do a fine job with your videos . Well ... the belt doesn't scare me . Currently own a 2014 High Country Silverado 1500 and I just turned 49,550 miles on it in the 6 years I have owned it . At that rate it would take me 18 years to get that many miles on my truck lol. I plan on trading mine in on a new truck in the next year or so . I'll look forward to your reports so thanks a bunch !
despite the flaws that people keep bringing up, i do rather like this engine and the more i see it, the more i understand the reasoning for so many "quirky features": the rear timing setup, albeit crazy, has completely taken care of all posible chain slack that the engine can possibly develop in its lifetime. ive also seen a lot of people wondering why this engine temp is all over the place and the reason is that coolant flow valve/controller, the ecm is playing with it to keep the passive regeneration running longer and properly pass emissions (i guess all the more strict thanks to vw and fca) this is some dope engineering for temperature/emissions management!. the rear wet belt for the oil pump is scary not gonna lie, however, you wouldnt want to hear the wining noise of a variable flow oil pump in your 60k truck or suv.... i personally think the estimate they gave you is only a placeholder till book time and training starts rolling. for a last thing i really have to applaud gm for the modularity and compactness of the powertrain desing being an i6 thanks for the updates! im keeping an eye out for the future ones you post, cheers!
1st impressions: Complex (understatement), reinforced impression of solo motor pics. Costly ($2250) maintenance for non-lesee’s. Thanks for the straight story!!
Thanks for the videos! My lease ends this December and my current 5.3L with 6 speed has transmission/converter slippage. And when I got my lease I was not smart so my buyout is high. I'm considering switching and buying the 3.0L duramax truck.
Very good video my friend. Thank you very much for posting. I just purchased a 2020 Chevrolet Silverado LT crew cab 3.0 Duramax 4X4. Only 520 miles so far. I'm still babying the truck. Not sure what is the "Break in point" for these new trucks. MPG looks pretty good so far. Hoping to go on a long trip coming up soon. Looking forward to more of your videos. Thanks again buddy.
Yeah, I'm not happy about that oil pump belt either. But at the 150K point, I'd replace the engine motor mounts assuming the engine can be moved forward a few inches to aide in clearance to the belt. Thanks for the detailed video!
3 liter diesels are perfect little engines. My 13 Touareg has one and it's never given me a single problem especially given how heavy it is. Glad to see GM building one and putting it in a truck.
Me too. I'm still a firm believer that if you do your maintenance, especially oil changes a little earlier than recommended that the timing chains won't be a problem. As for the belt, most engine now days have some type of maintenance either at 100k or 150k miles so I'll take the 150k for sure. I think a lot of vehicles that have problems don't get maintained but you can't fix people not doing the right thing...
I’m more worried about the coolant setup than that belt. Either way, I do agree that I want it to succeed. Hopefully they get that coolant and regen rock solid and it should be reassuring barring any blown motors before 200k.
$2,000+ that's a lofty price. I do like the engine. Not a big V8 not a small TDI. I'm in the market...there is soo much turmoil, or change in the market.
Thanks for the info. I immediately bought six cans of the X121 from the Canadian supplier. I got my truck 1 month ago and already found many spots where the coating is thin or rubbed off already. Too bad GM does not paint their frames.
So, this truck has 8 problems. 1. Rear diff has no drain plug. 2. Transmission has no drain plug. 3. DPF system next to transmission, cooks transmission fluid and shortens the life of transmission and fluid. 4. Front diff has no drain plug. 5. Extremely major problem with body having holes underneath, looks like Swiss cheese. Extremely smart design to trap moisture and salt and keep truck rusting fast. At least keeps dealership in business and owners in debt. Win win for everyone. 6. Use of 0w-20 oil is purposely recommended for turbo to fail after warranty and engine chains to wear out for engine to fail. 7. Rubber belt for oil pump, that genius idea. 8. Truck value after 80k miles will make truck worth noting, because who would want to have engine repairs due to rubber belt stretching and failing completely. I like your videos and subscribed to your channel. Keep posting your videos.
@@CJIEngineering Most definitely, I subscribed so I'll be on the look out for your videos. Do you feel like the 30k fuel filter change is to far out? Alot of my friends say I should change it every other oil change, not every 4 oil changes like the maintenance schedule says. Also do you find it weird that under "normal use" they say change the transmission fluid at 150k, and if "severe driving" every 45k? When are you going to be doing yours? Lastly... I live in California by the K&N factory. I'm going to sign a little contract, pretty much saying once I hit 1200 miles on my truck, they are going to borrow it and make the molds for their air filters and Dyno the truck for me. I'll let you know how that goes after all this COVID-19 crap.
Had mine for 4 days now, 146 miles. It just blew green crap all over the engine. Blew the engine dip stick out and is leaking oil. It's also smoking. Many ppl are having these issues. As for the fuel filter, just watch the fuel filter life monitor. My Cummins was every 15,000 miles.
Another informative video Chad! Looks as though there is actually some room to work on this truck. Did you get that impression while doing your inspection? Many people seem to be really worried about that oil pump belt. Most people probably haven’t had the joy of pulling off all the accessories and the front cover off of an engine. I’m not sure that pulling a transmission wouldn’t be easier, if you have access to a hoist of course. Not sure yet if the oil bath will help or hurt that belt. Extra incentive to change your oil on time or early.
Hi Chad, what is your opinion of the NOX-RUST X-121B coating on the frame? I have seen lots of criticism of GM for not using paint on the frame and I didn't see a lot of rust on your truck in your video. I'm considering the GMC Sierra with the 3.0 Duramax. I live in Edmonton, AB and the city does use salt on the roads in the winter so corrosion is a concern. I do wash my vehicles underside during winter to minimize the effects of salt and I also spray the underside with LPS 3 for additional protection. Keep up with the great videos!
Great video, just watched a video of a GM engineer that spent the last 5 years designing the 3.0. He stated they tore down many of these in the 160 to 170k mile engines and the belt passed all tests. They are looking to extending the 150k mi maintenance interval on the belt after more testing is done.
Hey Chad how's your 3.0 running? I bought a new 2020 3.0 crew cab/ short box this month after researching everything I could about this engine set up. I really have enjoyed your video's as you tow and show ownership issues that have helped me decide to purchase. Keep up the good work!
Big fan of your videos, new owner of 2020 1500 LTZ Duramax up-level cluster like yours. I noticed immediately, 1st warm up and drive off the lot from the dealer the coolant temp settles in around 200-210 deg. F, in your video of your 0-60 the torque pro monitor seemed to indicate something similar, however in your tow cruising at 70 video the temps were reading much much lower. I'm still under 1000 miles on my ODO, and im pretty sure the tow video your truck had many more miles on it, so I was thinking this might have had something to do with the excessive op. temp. When should I start to expect that temp to come down?
Do you know if the transmission has a filter? Can you change the transmission fluid yourself or do you have to take it to the dealer? Great run down of the truck i want one!
First of all,Thank you for the very detailed inspection/look around your truck.I personally want a 1/2 ton diesel.I am glad there are people like yourself who are willing to beta test these engines with questionable design engineering.I am the fella who went to the local Chevy service manager,looked at the computer diagrams and labor guide, and left with detailed and valuable information on oil pump, not belt, but the pump removal and replacement service," needing the engine pulled to service/change the pump out". I wonder if the oil pump location and engine/oil pan removal ever gave you pause in your decision? I am seriously divided on this or the New Gen 3 Ram engine. In my area LTZ z71s diesels, are discounted 15K off sticker.Regardless of the direction I end up going,I hope you have many safe miles of traveling.
Thank you for the comment and for watching. I'm a diesel nut so any time one of these things comes out I want to see how they work for sure and I'm blessed to be able to afford to be a beta tester, plus I like it :). I knew about the belt before I ordered the truck and it was my understanding from some buddies that the belt can be replaced without pulling the motor and I can see that from the information that I had available at the time. Since the service interval is 150k mile I had no hesitation in making my decisions to purchase this motor. I would say that GM reliability and the fact that there engine is an inline 6 really pushed me to the Duramax. From a drivetrain standpoint I think GM has it nailed plus the fact that FCA had to fix the emission on GEN2 engines kinda made me leery of even the GEN3 motors. Good luck with your new truck too and safe travels.
Truck has been great, right around 8,700 miles on the clock. No issues with the powertrain at all, cold weather has brought out a squeak or two but I haven't driven a vehicle without these transitional issues. I have the 2nd oil change done and the oil analysis came in last night. We also had our coldest day of the year so far -3F so I shot some more footage on a cold start and warm up. Stay tuned... Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Awesome job on the video. I picked up a 2020 GMC 3 weeks ago with the 3.0L and has the X31 package. Basically your same truck, but a GMC. I live in the St. George, Utah area and purchased it in Vegas. First tank of fuel I got 27.27 MPG. I added the Auto Stop start eliminator I shared with you in a previous video and it works great. Love the truck! I’m coming from a Tacoma.
What is this auto start stop eliminator? I have the Silverado, and if it is in regards to the auto ignition, that is the one thing I do not like about the truck... Everything else is amazing
Sean Conley Here’s the link. I didn’t feel comfortable installing it myself so I took it to a car audio joint since they have the tools. This thing works great. www.autostopeliminator.com/
Aris Torm If you’re referring to the auto stop eliminator I can’t say enough great things about it. It’s plug and play, but a pain to get to that point, which isn’t this company’s fault. The cost isn’t low, but It’s high quality and free shipping. You won’t regret purchasing it.
Hi Chad I see it’s been 7 months since u posted this video... how r u liking the trick so far? Any issues? I’m seriously contemplating buying this truck but not so sure about Diesel engine. Pls let me know ur thoughts thanks
Must have is the auto-stop eliminator (that constant stopping/starting wears an engine out) much less the electrical power drain/starter/A/C compressor/alternator (on/of).
Chad, just seeing how the truck has been so far? Any problems with the truck? It there any problems taking short trips with the truck - emission - filter it you can pass anything on.
I see a lot of items that would get covered by the snow and salt spread on our streets up here in Montreal Canada. I wonder if an good under coating would be needed. Any thoughts on this?
I live in upstate New York. You live even farther up north. I’d recommend getting an extra undercoating. Any vehicle up here will start to rot in 10-15 years, we’ll if you keep it in the garage during the winter maybe it won’t rust as much. Depends how much you drive too.
I have never heard of Krown but looked them up this week. It's interesting for sure. I actually bought the NOX-RUST X-121B Aerosol stuff that is used on the frame from the factory. I thought I had taken some video of the process of touching up the frame this fall but I didn't... This spring I plan on cleaning the frame again and touching up the underside to keep rust at bay but I'm probably going to look into Krown a little more. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Thank you. I'm super excited that the SUVs are getting the 3.0 Duramax motor. If I didn't have a farm, this pretty much require the pickup bed, I would for sure swap over to a Tahoe or Yukon just to have the ultimate cross country cruiser/people hauler. I don't think I can justify having both in my fleet. As for towing, I think the SUV with the Duramax is going to be a great combination from a powertrain standpoint. Until I can drive one I'm really curious about how the independent rear suspension is going to work, should be good but I can't comment till I've tried one. Thanks for the comment and as soon as one hits the lots I'm sure I'll do a test drive :)
Great video. What kind of L per 100km. And how many km per tank does the truck show when full? If u could switch ur cluster to metric that would be excellent
Good Video CHAD looks like GM went back to STAMPED STEEL LOWER Control ARMS !!! #1 from Cast IRON #2 Forged Aluminum #3 Stamped Steel and #4 RAM 1500 Trucks Steel Upper COMPOSITE !!!
GM claims that you can go 7,500 miles on a DEF tank, this is true if your not towing. I filled mine up at 2,600 miles then again around 6,500 miles. I do a fair amount of towing and when you burn the fuel it puts in as much DEF as required to keep the NOx to a relatively low level, so a lot in my case :) Keep me posted
If you are asking about the hole on the driver side, this is the air intake. The air is pulled, not from the wheel well any more but from between the hood and the front of the radiator. I think it's a better spot to get good clean cool air. Thanks for the question.
I am considering upgrading to this from my 2017 Tacoma. How is the average fuel economy per tank when not hauling? My commute is about 70 miles, and I like to take the family on road trips...so if the fuel economy of this rig is as good as listed, it is a much better upgrade over my Tacoma at 21mpg. Thanks
If you commute is 70 miles on the highway, speeds of 70mph, you can expect to get between 27 and 29 mpg. Lower speed can get you well over 30 mpg, around town I'm getting 22-24 mpg.
Take a look at his earlier videos of this truck where he shows his gauges. The temp is all over the place. I have watched other people show videos of the same truck with the 3.0 diesel and the temp stayed the same no matter is they were towing or not. I’m not so sure if the temp is suppose to be all over the place.
If you go to the digital display can you see what the actual temperature values are? I have seen as high as 220F before the coolant selector valve changes to move coolant to another zone. Typically mine will run between 180F and 220F and I consider that as acceptable. Longer trips the temperature will stabilize but when it's 20F out it has a lot more cooling capability than it does at 90F. Some people have reported problems but I have not had any problems yet. Let me know what you find.
Chad, how often should I expect a Regen? I'm approaching 2000 miles and my def fluid indicator still reads full. I haven't towed anything yet all the miles are highway miles to and from work, very little idling just for morning warm ups. Just curious I would have expected the level to drop some by now.
You should expect to fill up the DEF tank every 7,500 miles of you drive it lightly, just something I have read. I'm filling mine up every 4,000 miles and if I was doing a lot of towing it could be as low as 2,000 miles so there is a big range. A Regen is the cleaning of the DPF, diesel particulate filter, and it is something that happens in the background and independent of the DEF level. To know when the Regen happens you need to use a tool or an app to read the data coming from the engine. I hope this helps. Thanks for the question.
@@CJIEngineering ok I was mistaken then, I thought the Regen was when the truck used the def fluid. I'm new to diesels this is my first one. Can you tell me when the truck decides to use the def fluid or is there a way to know? I just found it odd that after 2000 miles mine still reads completely full? I guess I'm just hoping there's not a problem I would have figured after 2000 miles I would have used some by now.
@@jb-uw6cf No worries, I'm glad to help out. The truck will use as much DEF fluid as necessary to reduce the NOx emissions to a very low level. NOx is generated by high combustion temperatures so it is pretty much proportional to the amount of fuel you use and unfortunately the accuracy of that gauge is very similar to the fuel gauge. It will stay full for a long time at full and then drop pretty proportionally, if your down 1 bar I would say you have used just over 1 gallon or about 20% of the tank. This would mean that you will get the refill within 1000 mile warning around 6,500-7,000 miles. I'm guessing you are getting over 25mpg and seems to be right on par. Let me know if you have any other questions and congratulations on the Duramax.
@@CJIEngineering Chad, thanks so much for the info. That has definitely cleared it up for me. I appreciate you taking the time to respond and to make the videos, they help for new diesel owners like me. I have one more question if you don't mind. What is your stance on where to buy the def fluid? I've read some that say buy it off the shelf but verify the date which seems like a pain and others say only get it from a pump like at a pilot station. I'm leaning towards just buying it from a pump hoping that it would be "fresh" and not having to worry about trying to decode a manufacture date from something off the shelf.
I only purchase DEF at a truck stop pump for the exact reason that you mentioned, I don't want to sort through the boxes and in my opinion the boxes all leak. I love the fact that places like Tractor Supply and Walmart carry it and would use it as a last resort option since if you run out the truck will limit it's speed and eventually you will only be able to go 4mph. Keep me posted on how you like the truck.
What's with the 0W20 diesel oil? anything less than a 30wt in a diesel makes me a little nervous. Does GM allow you to run anything else, or is this the only spec allowed in the manual?
Why would it make you nervous? It's what it was engineered for. Bearing tolerances, etc. all take it into consideration. Same when pickup gas V8 engines went to 0w-20. Works perfect and if you run heavier oil than recommended, your bearings are not getting the correct lubrication.
@@MrChadx1 Yes and many of those vehicles have reverted back to 5W30 after excessive bearing failures (i.e. ford HD, Ram Ecodiesel, etc). This is the lightest oil put in any diesel truck ever so excuse me if i'm skeptical. It seems like this was put in purely for fuel economy, which will come at the expense of engine longevity. Gasoline weight oil surely can't protect as well with the higher pressures in diesel engines.
@@reginaldsmall3766 As far as I can tell its Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W20, it has to have the DexosD rating and thats the only one that i see other than ACDelco.
Ahmad, The engine has bee super reliable, it has not had to be in the shop as of today and I have just over 12,200 miles on it. In a few weeks I'll be taking a 3,500 mile trip towing a trailer so before the 1 year mark I'll have well over 16,000 miles on the truck. Lots of people talk about concerns they have but I don't have any as of today :) Thanks for the question.
Your label of a NXo catalytic converter, I believe is in error. On the full size Dmax it's called a SCR, selective catalytic reduction. This along with the DEF fluid lowers the nitrous oxide level 90% of the reading entering the SCR. This is the system that throws a code and the truck comes to a stand still in a little over 200 miles give or take if you ignore it.
Thanks for the note. I'll need to look into that some more. My 2016 Colorado Duramax had the DEF freeze in the lines and I had the situation where it was going to slow me down to 65mph for a short time unless I fixed it. I put the truck in the garage and warmed it up to 40F and took it for a short drive, ~2 miles it reset and I was good for the rest of the winter. If you drive the truck every day this shouldn't happen because it will pull the fluid back to the tank before it will freeze. Thanks again for helping out.
I really love the truck. No issue with the powertrain, just a few squeaks in the colder weather but overall it's an awesome vehicle. There are a couple things that would be nice for GM to do in the future but I'm good with this one for a while.
I once had an 1987 Dodge Dakota and had put a 100 Gallon fuel tank in the box. I had a switch in the cab that controlled which tank fed the engine. Got some serious range with that setup.
No dipstick, but its also not "sealed". There is a level check procedure using a plug in the left rear side of the transmission case. It's checked from this plug with the engine running. You add fluid until it starts to run out the hole. When it stops running, install the plug.
Sorry in the delay getting back with you. I have not see or heard of the P06DB code but I believe it is a code for one of the NOx/O2 sensors. It could be a loose wire or maybe a bad module. Dealerships in my area are completely shut down so I can't even get their help now..... Let me know how you come out.
Hey so i got the truck back today ended up being a sensor or solenoid in the oil pan they had to remove the steering rack and drop the transfer case in order to change it, i made it about 2 stoplights before i got another code and limp mode, this time im getting the same po6db as well as po6dd, gonna be dropping it off again tommorow, will keep you updated
Had mine for 4 days now, 146 miles. It just blew green crap all over the engine. Blew the engine dip stick out and is leaking oil. It's also smoking. Many ppl are having these issues.
1000% agree. I'm only kind of ok with some of the emissions. My big beef is that if there is a problem the truck will go into limp mode and that is being super kind, 4 mph is more like death mode... With the year we have had if your truck was in death mode you couldn't even find a dealership that could work on it for 3-4 weeks!!!! That would mean you are without a vehicle for that time, of course in Michigan there wasn't anywhere to go :( Thanks again for watching and commenting.
Truck has 12,300 miles on it as of today and still doing great. I'm starting to work on some more videos including a full review when I get 1 year on it and should have about 16,000 miles on it: :)
I have read about it and even asked the dealership about the cost. The belt is less than $30 and I'm sure the time to do the swap is less than 5 hrs. The dealership does not need to do it, I'm lucky enough to know some good mechanics and who knows maybe I'll do it myself. There has been some talk about increasing the service interval to more than 150,000 miles and I'm thinking I won't change it till it fails. There is very little load on that belt and if it goes the ECU will let you know... I'm not to concerned about it.
Man it is cool but i would have waited to make sure that truck dont end up like the 1st gen northstar caddys. You may not even be able to give it back to the dealer as a trade in when your done with it. My buddy had a 6.0 ford that was a realy nice truck that for every 3 hours of operation needed 2 weeks at the mechanics shop. He finaly went to trade it in and the dealer wouldn't take it . not even a low ball offer.
Whew... Your dealer want to make bank on that belt. HAHA. Most dealers so far are quoting 600-900 in Labor plus the $50 belt plus tax. So around $1k at most. This is common for a lot of older vehicles to need a timing belt and the quotes are the same. However the risk of a timing belt replacement to a shot is a lot higher than this simple oil belt.
I agree, the belt is super cheap and the labor can't be that much, seems like they are quoting to pull the engine not move the transmission out of the way.... I probably won't replace it ever, I'm sure it will go well past 150k miles and even if it breaks the motor will protect its self. At 200k+ I would expect the possibility of a tow :)
replace at 150K, i'm going to run myn' till it breaks. You'll know when it breaks bc you'll have no oil pressure. or should i say, i'll change it when it breaks or i need to rebuild my tranny.
I won't even think about my belt until over 200k. It's continuously bathed in oil and is non slip. IF GM says it's a recommended 150k service interval, then they've run them to double that with very low or no failure. People need to quit sweating it. IF that's someone's big hang up then they're REALLY nitpicking. This isn't some $60 replacement timing belt from AZ.....These trucks aren't bought by people who are going to be using it to haul over long distances. These trucks will NOT see the miles put on by their bigger brothers used by car haulers. 150k will take the AVERAGE 1500 owner 8-10 years and by that time, the original owner will have already likely sold or traded it in. A non issue.
As time has gone by I am hearing more and more that GM may increase that replacement mileage to 200K. This based on the fact that the belts in their test fleets that have been checked at 150K have consistently looked great.
There is a lot of space, maybe someone will build a larger tank for it. I think this would be helpful for towing but for normal driving, you can go a really long day without stopping for fuel... It's hard on the bladder :)
Maintenance in my opinion is fairly similar if you perform maintenance like it probably should be done on a gas motor, air filters, oil changes, fuel filters and so on. The big difference between gas and diesel is that the emissions systems on gas will allow an engine to run with a check engine light pretty much forever, drive by probably 30% of cars with that light on, but with a diesel engine, if you have a light you have between 200 miles and 1000 miles to get is looked at or it will start to limit your ability to drive the truck, speed reduced starting at 65mph and ending at 4mph... I just think that Diesels are leading the curve when it comes to how the EPA is going to manage emissions for all Internal Combustion Engines in the future. The only real extra effort with the diesel is the DEF fluid but I pump that at the fueling station and that only has to happen every 4-7k miles. One last point, gasoline engines with displacement on demand (AFM or DFM) are actually more complected from a combustion/control process and good maintenance practices are super important to keep them running well for a long time. Older AFM systems you could feel the V4-V8 transitions and that drove me nuts... I like linear power curves without the transition abruptness. The newer DFM system seemed to be pretty darn good but requires a lot more computer power to keep it seamless but they are pretty darn new too. Thanks for the comment. I'm putting together a Diesel 411 video so you question has help me formulate what I'm going to say... I'm a diesel guy but I also really want people to know what to expect if they buy a new Tahoe or Suburban with the 3.0 Duramax. Better to be informed in my opinion.
Smart people will wait for 2 reasons the 2022 model will get adjustments to improve it and gm is upgrading the interior about time🙄 maybe even wait till 23 you would probably have a great truck thats still way over priced but we the idiots keep paying it so they will keep raising it. They could mark them to a hundred grand a truck for a 1/2 ton and u would see them all over the place it sucks if we would come together refuse there bullshit high price for a plastic truck then gm would come down but thats with everything in consuming
Imo why would people buy a diesel I know they say mileage but when u factor in the maintenance of a diesel fuel filter def fluid oil it's a wash compared to a gas motor gas motor u just change the oil and u drive it no worry about def or injectors going bad or gelling up in winter
Less volotile combustion, greater engineering in terms of clearances, and with a less volotile combustion and better engineering, proper maintenance gives you 300k miles pretty easily... Gas engines are shot at 150k
I tow a small travel trailer and wanted something that gets better mileage with and without towing. I didn’t want a gas 1500 that was screaming up the mountains.
The low end torque makes them a joy to drive. No need to downshift and rev the engine wild to make power. Great for towing or driving around in hilly areas. Once you go diesel it's hard to go back. Yeah the maintenance is more, but some things are worth it to some people. I do most of mine myself so the it's easy to get on par or better than gas.
Very truck. Two of my vehicles now have the electronic booster. Both have had software updates but no issues with them so far. My 02 had a hydraulic booster, all different methods of doing the same thing.
@@CJIEngineering i have a 2017 tahoe with Vacuum Booster and Mechanical Pump bolted to the Side of my Engine - was Replaced once on Recal - Seems OK uses a Rubber Stretch Belt run by the Engine - the 5.3 v8 has AFM so Vacuum gets low .
Yep, my thought exactly. I really need to get my hands on the replacement procedure to see why it takes so long. Not sure exactly what the dealership is charging per an hour but at $125.00/hr that would be an 18hr job... I don't see how that can be the case. Talking with a mechanic buddy, you can drop and install a transmission in 3-4 hrs. Maybe it is 14hr of studying :)
Please do not use illegal drugs. Pledge to be drug free in America. No pot no Clintons no large government no to Democrats no no and more big no to pot a gateway drug.
