Thank you for posting it. After watching this video; is it possible to remove both front fork tubes at the same time, and by doing this, maybe we could avoid removing brake caliper? Of course, the motorcycle would have to be definitely better secured after lifting it.
You solved the problem raising the front end. Already have a Woodcraft universal stand so just ordered a 27mm pin, for the rear a trolley jack w/ short piece of 4x4 bolted to it lift at the frame crossbar- allows variable height- helpful in getting rear wheel perfect height to slip on without dampers falling out while working alone. Have a Pit Bull rear stand but for a different bike, 100 lbs lighter don't like the teetering part. Also just replaced tire w/ Metzler Roadtech 1, much better than 404's and installed fully adjustable Matris fork inserts/ piggyback shocks. Not necessary to remove brake pads to get back on, just use a large flat blade screwdriver to spread the pads, had my front wheel off/on 3 times already. DON"T FORGET to pump them back before heading down the driveway, unless you want to experience panic, lol. Also got the T800 device and flashed the ECU, now it is linger anemic below 400 rpm and sounds quieter, deeper-have same pipes w/o db killers, Gasket maker SAS plugged, no more popping on decel and no power when cold.
@@jacksdad7933 Cool!!! As far as the Pit Bull stands, for me the front and rear are the way to go. No muss, no fuss! Besides, the bike looks sick being jacked up by front and rear Pit Bull!!! My bikes are running perfectly now and I love the popping on de-cel, that's my favorite part of the exhaust sound....music to my ears!!! Compressing the brake pads can cause damage to the friction material, besides its good to remove the pad hardware once in a while to clean and prevent rust and corrosion from building up, and it only takes a few minutes. Anyways, ride safe!!!
