I actually removed my support brackets on purpose and instead, hammered the inside brackets on the guards themselves to fit flush against the tail lights. There's no longer a gap in between. I was on a trail a while back and tree branches kept getting caught in between the support bracket and the guards themselves. No noise whatsoever and I like the flush fit better without the brackets so it doesn't get caught on things in the mountains. Have had no issue since and been running that way off road for about a year.
Have fun blowing your cv axle boots out everytime you hard flex the front. I'm currently removing my 2.5 rocky road spacer lift, because it keeps destroying cv axles under moderate flex. Pretty disappointing, to own a 3in lifted wk only to be able to crawl down the interstate.
Have been running (at least the front end with Old Man Emu springs) for over 40,000 miles and plenty of off road and overland trips in between. Have had half of the front-end high off the ground in the past where BLD kicked in with zero issues whatsoever. Plenty of other WK owners have done the same as well...... Still running on stock CV's. In this video I had 1.5" Daystar rear pucks in the back that has since been replaced with OME HD springs. So yes I have gone even higher in the rear. Still with zero issues. Spacer lifts on an IFS setup is asking for bad Juju to happen. The geometry angles you get with a budget boost spacer lift are not nearly as great as what you'd get from a true coil spring lift. (In essence: You get what you pay for). After adding some more heavy armor, a rear ladder, and a roof basket to my Jeep, my lift has sunk to about 2.5" in total lift front and rear (21.5" Center of Hub to Fender).
Hey man, glad to see you made the leap and lifted Rocky, she looks good! I think I figured out her wheel locking problem! Try holding the traction control button while stopped, and in drive I belive, for up to 15 seconds, until you hear a chime. That will fully disengage traction control until you restart her. It returns to partially on if you exceed 40 mph. Let me know how it works out!
Thanks! :) After some research, I found out that the traction control fully off (via holding the button) was not something that was previously allowed in early WK models. (Mine is a 2005). It was until I believe 2006 or 2007 where they made the change where you could completely disable ESP by holding the button down for 15 seconds. I am installing front and rear QuadraDrive II ELSD's this late summer and when off roading, I may just end up pulling the ABS Fuse, which is basically the same thing as completely disabling traction control. Just manually, and hopefully that allows the max amount of torque without engine power getting cut off as the vehicle's "safety mechanism" when going up inclines.
@@TheValleyofAwesome I would try pulling the fuse, and if it works well enough, wire a switch to the fuse block to break the circuit. I know you love Rocky so I hate to even say this, but you might find a nice Overland with QDII for less than new axles after finding her a new home, and without the work. Just a thought. Thats what I did. I'm 55 and had a lot of cars, and what I eventually realized is that... honestly, aside from memories, in the end, it's really just a car.
@@RickHavok Oops, sorry. What I meant to say was I already have the front and rear QDII axles 😅. They just need to be installed and I'm planning to do them this early August. I got both of them for a pretty good steal. About $1k, which costed less than the full OME lift setup + adjustable trackbar on Rocky. The individual I bought the rear ELSD diff from didn't realize the value of that diff, so I got it for half the price it should've been. (Most QDII axles cost around 1k. I got it for less from a WK with less than 90k on the odometer) And i also appreciate the suggestion for the QD2 Overland. But something about the traditional Jeep spirit is Built Not Bought. I guess there's something unique about making your vehicle your own and adding your own spin and personality to it. (Of course within reasonable budget as well as if it's doable). Not sure if there's a QTI WK out there that's locked front and rear, but you are right. Long term, it would be cheaper to buy an Overland, you're right. But in the end I guess my RU-vid channel was built and founded on QTI equipped Jeeps and how capable they are. I guess it's not bad to focus on it. I'll be making a video soon once the ELSD's are in :)
@@TheValleyofAwesome Awesome deal on the diffs! I love the spirit you have wanting to build it that way! Most people wouldn't go that far with a WK, but then I have seen people go to even greater lengths on rare occasion. This is going to be inspiring to watch. I'm really looking forward to it! You will have to rig the solenoids to switches I assume and will be missing the center locker. It's kind of a shame you can't take advantage of the variable clutches there because of the PCM control, but they will still lock, at least on each axle. Not sure what will happen with say the front 2 wheels off the ground, but I hope it works out the way you want. I wonder if the center (front to rear) lock can be added to that transfer case. 🤔 I wish you all the best on the project and if there is anything I can do to help from PA, just ask.
@@andrewneff507 This was the website where my friends had originally purchased it several years ago: www.justforjeeps.com/towhooks7.html However, it looks like Mopar discontinued production of the item, so it can no longer be purchased directly from the manufacturer. But you may have some luck looking at other websites or seller's like eBay. (Or even your local pick n' pull) Just make sure they're the correct item for the correct vehicle. If you're lucky, you could speak with folks on Jeep Forum trying to get rid of theirs.
