@zachhefner6716 its mitsubishi, made from Japan! Do a little research and you will see how reliable this car is. Plus it doesn't realy have a "cvt" transmission.
Locomotive Engineer here, this is what we would do when going down hill called (Dynamic Braking). We would engage dynamic braking by moving the the throttle handle forward and it would allow the motors to reverse polarity and using the motors slow the train down without using the air brakes. Good practice with this vehicle before going to work. 😁😁
Great video once again thank you. I love using the pedal Shifters. I normally drive in B0 during city driving and highway, unless I use cruise control because the system reverts back to B2 (no pedal sifftter use) We do not have any hills to speak of here in Winnipeg so my Regenerative Braking only occurs when I slow down as I approach intersections. In this test you just did, A gain of 5 kms on on 3 km run is very impressive, but I noticed that you had the Cabin Heater set today 22'C. I believe you may have gained 7 or 8kms had the heater been off. But of course these guessometer readings Hopefully you may get some warm days soon so you can do some tests with the heater off. In my 2022 Phev in the warm weather I usually drive 7 to 10 kms one way to Girlfriend's place and back, each way and average 14 -16kWh/100km use each way, depending on traffic and with Heater off, on pure EV. But now with Temps below -20'C and Cab Heater set to 20'C, I am averaging 45 -50 kWh/100km of EV even with the ICE on and indicating 6 -9 l/100km On the same drive distance. So you see, the Heater on both my 2018 and my new 2022 Outlander PHEV draws a lot of Power from the Main Batery when the heater is in use.
Great review, thanks for doing these little focused clips! IME so far I wish that B5 would also slow to a complete stop. I mean with 5 levels of regen, why not just have one setting that goes all the way, especially if the brake lights come on. I also think that B4 slows quickly enough that the brake lights should come up for the benefit of drivers behind you. Where does the on-drive pedal fall on the regen braking scale; stronger than B5? I also find oddly that when in EV priority mode, if I switch to B3, EV priority is cancelled, which I don't want if I put it into EV. Maybe that only happens when the battery is full as someone else mentioned below. Personally I find that annoying; I would rather have the car tell me that B3 is not available rather than switching out of EV mode, because now I have to do two things to get back to EV mode: flip to B2 and then tap the EV button. EV mode should be priority over B3. Anyways, this is learning curve stuff!
I test drove one last week and the 1 pedal mode is definitely harder than B5. I did see one video review that said that the energy return to the battery is the same in B5 or one pedal mode, so (assuming that's true, cannot confirm) if you're in real tight stop and go (and you didn't buy the trim level that has stop and go auto driving), that might be cool though I found it pretty jarring. But I could definitely see staying in B3 or B4 for a lot of everyday driving and getting a decent bit of energy back. REALLY excited to get one of these things
Interesting video, thanks, but the 5 km obtained by using regeneration is not correct. It may look like you got so much range back just because it is a guessometer and it continuously adjusts how much EV range you have if you would continue to drive given the current conditions, e.g. the current el. consumption you have. Since using regen there is no consumption and one even adds some extra charge to the battery, the car automatically calculates that you can drive in such way much further than you typically could if you drove on some flat road, so the km it adds to the total range are based on assumption that you will continue to drive downhill. This can also be seen in the data shown by the car when you continued to drive after the test in some city traffic where you lost all those 5 km of range in just maybe 1 km. So the actual range you got from regeneration was maybe just 1-2 km instead of 5 km. To measure regenerated energy properly it would require to calculate how much kWh one have added to the battery during regeneration and then use a typical el. consumption of the car to estimate how many km one would get out of it. It could have been better if you could show the ECO Drive Report which reports how many km the car obtained by using regeneration during the trip. I do not know how exactly it calculates the data, but I assume that it would use the amount of kWh collected while using regenerative brakes during the trip and then would use the average trip consumption to convert those kWh to km.
Great point. It would be nice if they can figure out a way to display remaining kW in the battery along with the battery level gauge, that would show how many actual kW was regained.
I still have about an 11 month wait till my Outlander PHEV comes in, but I took a test drive down a very steep hill near me for about 3km on cruise. It kept the car exactly at the right speed the whole way down the hill (100km/hr) and it gained 13km of range by the time it got to the bottom of the hill. I believe it did regenerative braking the whole way down. I think the B1/2/3/4/5 settings don't matter so much on cruise control as it's more like to the innovative pedal (which is B5 all the time, I believe). I then lost all those 13km when I went back up the hill (and the engine had to kick in to provide enough electric torque to keep the car at 100km/hr going up the hill).
Hi,thank u for ur videos. am driving usually using adaptive cruise control..almost every time. Does that work with this model? Does Adaptive cruise or Mipiolet effect life of Break?
From what I can tell the regen braking works Quite a bit differently if battery is full. Engine seems to kick in every time you go to B3 of higher which is ridiculous. Please comment if you found a work around this. The only workaround I found is driving in B0 and using regular brake pedal which seems to regen just as much energy as the paddles. Also the one-pedal does not seem to kick the engine in and provides a strong level of regen but it essentially automatically presses the brake pedal for you (you can feel it with you foot).
So I read the manual, page 1-4. When the battery is near full, or its cold or hot and you switch to more regenerative braking (B3+), the engine is driven by the generator to consume the regen power. So the ICE is not consuming gas when this happens. That's pretty cool. Wish it wouldn't cancel EV priority when this happens though, but a quick tap back of the gear lever back into D makes EV priority available again.
@@drzoidberg1 good to know though I find it hard to believe that ICE running consumes zero gas. In any case, I just got used to not using the paddle shifters almost at all unless I’m rolling down the hill in which case I pay attention to stay in either B1 or B2. Otherwise, in regular driving it seems like an unnecessary effort to play around with the paddles when the brake pedal seems to return max regen available at a given SOC of the battery. I also found it easy to overshoot from B2 and B3 and accidentally trigger the ICE and cancel EV mode which is indeed annoying.
@@michaelselman3094 give it a try, I think that puts regen back to B2. I use the paddle shifters to go back to B2 and once the ICE finishes it's on cycle it will turn itself off.
@@drzoidberg1 Thanks so much for the reply. I haven't found anyone that can explain why the EV setting does not allow a regen setting higher than B2. Is it a "mistake" on the part of Mitsubishi, or is there a sensible reason why this is so?
Is it more efficient to set B0 when accelerating or B5? Do you save more gas accelerating at B0 with the car lighter or regenerating some energy at B5 with the car heavier so using more gas but generating some energy? It's my biggest doubt with my car right now. It would be great to better understand how it works and how to take more advantage of the technology in the car
Great video, thanks for sharing! One question i have, if anyone here happens to know, is why the all electric range is not further, considering the size of the battery? The Hyundai Tucson has a 13.8 KWH battery, the Outlander has a 20 KWH battery. Despite being 45% larger, the Outlander only has a 15% further range then the Tucson. Any ideas?
I'd assume it's not just the size of the battery that determines the range. There's a lot more to the PHEV than that. Mitsubishi has been in the EV game a long time, I'm sure there is a technical reason for this
The battery itself adds weight so you have to sort of figure out how much more battery can an engine with X amount of torque haul around before it becomes a burden on itself. Also I've been watching/reading a mountain of reviews on this car for a couple of weeks now, and many people are reporting a real world range of closer to 80 km (in ideal conditions).
I dont have garage to plug it in. Do you think it is still economical to own one? I am thinking of trading in my Outlander 22 GT (Gas) for the PHEV version.
I still think it makes sense. You will discover that there are many free / low cost public chargers available. Plus, if you have none around - it still will act as a hybrid!
So still we have to use gas paddle but instead of break paddle we have to use paddle shifter Am i right? Do I need to press paddle switch besides electric mode? Or I should use gear shifter to B mode Please explain I just got my PHEV YESTERDAY thanks
Congrats on your PHEV! :) You can use paddle shifters to ease off on braking power or make it stronger. Most convenient way to engage is with shifters (you can also do it with gear shifter, it's just not as convenient)! Just take yours out for a good drive and play around with it.
It’s been 2 days since I got my SEL PHEV and today I tried the innovative braking. It freaked me out a little. As soon as I let go of the gas pedal it would almost immediately come to a complete stop . And it felt like I needed more effort to get going while stepping on gas pedal. Is this normal?
@@mr.mitsubishilevel B 3 and up deactivate CV mode on mine and I get a message to that effect on the instrument cluster. Someone in one of the comments mentioned it does this so it doesn't overload the batteries.
Can you tell me how to make that B2/B1 level showing in the panel? I push the paddle shifter, nothing shows in my dash. Mine is 2023 PHEV Outlander. Thank you.