So much effort you've put into making the perfect enclosure and I assume quality drivers and then you crap out on the cables, I know for sure when you want to get the full power to those drivers that your flimsy cables are too thin, you really need a bigger gauge because when you drive those woofers hard your cables will warm up pretty fast, I'm sure that's the weakest link so if you ever get problems you know where to look first.
@@JilesMcCoy the wire inside the amplifier is also very short, every connection and every inch of wire is also more resistance that you're adding to the system so I stand for my suggestion to use a bigger wire gauge. Also if the wire inside the amplifier is a small gauge maybe it's better to replace those too. I have Phoenix Gold amplifier and those have really big gauge wires inside, I have even bigger gauge connected to the outside of the amp going to the speakers. You'd want to have the least resistance in a high power and high quality audio system to get the best performance.
@@RicardoPenders I don't disagree with the concept. But at these power levels and run lengths 12awg is the most that anyone would reasonably need to use. Some external guidance: www.crutchfield.com/S-jkNXkfIwhWH/learn/learningcenter/home/speakers_wire.html
In all seriousness, are those sized subs overkill for that size of room? I mean you must have a 4000 watt amp per channel so are you using about a quarter of the gain setting or just trimming the LFE channel low?
They are likely overkill for any room in any home theater. But that is part of the point. You do tune the to the output you need. But in the end you can also twist the knob all the way and go nuts too!
adding glue to the outside of the joins does not add much for strength... mostly a waste of glue. Use some latex caulk for added seal in the corners if needed...
Really I did just that many years ago - through the floor! resonance box was the basement. Just need an infinite baffle speaker. A 15 inch will fit well between floors thrusts. Then just send audio signal through an active crossover and job done. Also: I used an ordinary "heat dock floor plate" to hide speaker. So I just SAW a rectangle hole through floors plywood, then screw speaker underneath. Bass like I never heard... caveat: better not tell your wife in advance.
Steve on … I like the way you think, but the reality is a normal 2x4 wall with sheetrock is going to flap like a screen door in a hurricane, never mind moving the furniture upstairs. Probably best to brace a bunch of 2x12s to a cement wall and load it with insulation.
i would never use screws to mount drivers i always use allen head bolts and t nuts so each bolt is threaded and you can remove as offen as you need and the mount holes wont wear out
The fold will be somewhere else in the house. Usually in the kitchen cupboards and your wife kicks you out cuz you're breaking glasses and plates. P.S. Room not big enough for subsonics.
Just remember that the room itself has to have enough cubic feet to reproduce low frequency. On tour we could produce 16hz -18hz with many, many, 18" coupled together. If you've ever heard subsonics from a car going by, well, that's because that's where the null is. They can never hear those freq's in the car cuz there's not enough cubic ft. to reproduce it.
The car analogy is a good one. Just yesterday I thought my JL 12" was turned down low inside my car but then my wife tells me I am bumping Costco inside. His wife and neighbors can hear that upgrade more than the guy sitting in the room itself....but it sure is fun yeah??!!
Indeed! Premiere Pro got a bit wiggy on me and I missed it in my QA pass. This version has the corrected footage: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IM6IAapVsBU.html
You do not have to pre-drill holes on MDF it's not going to crack people... And you use heat shrink on wires not shrink wrap 🤣🤣 otherwise in that good video 👏👏👏
There is a TON of air through the port. I have it near field behind my sofa so I haven't noticed any chuffing... but I need to stick my head back there during some heavy scenes and see what is going on. You can feel the air though.
@@JilesMcCoy Jiles, thanks for the quick response. I'll break out the measuring tape again, I suppose, but I think two Devastators will be tough to make work. Not to mention the cost, and the spousal approval factor. But I appreciate the videos and input. Thanks!
Construction adhesive is a good option and GSG likes it for this buiild. This is good reading for a comparison of the 2: homeguides.sfgate.com/wood-glue-vs-construction-adhesive-90200.html
@@robsorgdrager8477 Coils will not corrode, they are coated in their own adhesive to hold them together and protect them. At most it would affect voice coil leads if they were copper and typically contact with the air alone will do that anyways to any copper.
@@NVMDSTEvil I'm just going off what I was taught. Using sealants and adhesive can induce voc's that will break down coatings and adhesive used in manufacturing of some speakers . I've been building enclosure for home and auto for a while now I've always had good luck with wood glue. For gap filling I use wood glue and corn starch .
I always use PL premium in my builds. Never had any issues and have had some speakers running for 10+ years. It expands to eliminate any leaks. Make sure that you don't want to take it apart though. The glue will bond stronger than the wood itself.
As long as you're making your own speaker systems, you might as well make your own low frequency absorption cabinets/diffusors. www.acousticfields.com/product-category/d-i-y-acoustic-treatment/ They do have the best low frequency absorption cabinets in the world, but you still have to buy the activated carbon from them since they mfg. the carbon specifically for sound absorption application. Plus, they'll tell you how many you'll need and where to place them within the room.
Nice job. I highly suggest using threaded inserts and bolts for access panel and mounting the sub. In case you need to recone or get behind the panel, you could open it up for the lifetime of the enclosure and mounting surface will never degrade which MDF is notorious for. Another thing, Raptor bedliner is great alternative to paint. It's isiot proof and provides a tough and clean finish that'll handle abuse.
One thing to note is when you are working with MDF, especially cutting/sanding, you should be wearing a respirator or at the very least a dust mask. MDF is made with formaldehyde and you don’t want to be breathing in any particulates
When your speakers are so big they block the projector screen. Looks to me like you need to knock down a couple walls and remodel! *ducks the wife's backhand*
I need to dig the basement out and tunnel under the next door neighbor! Or a 2nd subfloor! I have an A-lens and will be getting a scope screen to fix the screen issue. Fun times a-coming!
If one was to compare this to building a street rod, then we're talking BIG BLOCK material! I see the driver is rated to handle 2,500 watts.... no joke. What they don't show in the specs is rated SPL at a given input power, or the other usual data like frequency response, curve, etc. Based on the links I see the driver is $750 and the cabinet is $500. We're in deep pockets territory so don't tell the old lady what you are spending.
Subscribe to see all the new content! bit.ly/go2youtubenow A better edit of this video is here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IM6IAapVsBU.html The distorted aspect ratio video at the end is fixed!
Love the show and the build, an I've got a question for you have you ever tried to build a an open baffle subwoofer specifically a duel 15in w frame baffle designed I've considered such a build an learned that any driver with a Qts value at .7 or higher is a good place to start but trying to find one that's 98db efficient and is under 300$ a driver is hard any advice on how to get one and build a duel 15in open baffle w frame That would be great my current planed build is two diy subs for my home theater each to be a twin 15in DVC 4 Ohms either to be in a sealed with radiator or if I can find the right sub for it a open baffle subwoofer, my preference is for the open baffle is a driver that takes a total rms of 800watts each for a combined total of 1600 as I'll be using my two 1502 crowns in Bridged one to push each of my radiator builds for which I already have a decent drivers for them but my quest to find a driver for my open baffle subwoofers builds I don't my preference is the same size and rms but with an efficiency of 98db an fq range to at least of 20hz on the driver and under 350$ per driver if that's possible. I'd like to see you do a two duel 15in DVC w frame open baffle subwoofers for your next vid after your current one thanks
I don't have a lot but what I have is very interesting an defiantly has me considering such a build for me just trying to find a car subwoofer that can suit such peramiters that are needed for open baffle subwoofer design but that's just for costs the best iv seen for use in a open baffle Subwoofer design is from acoustic elegance this is a 2pt video about open baffle subwoofer ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GLKZVBYi-Lc.html I'd planed to go for what's called a w frame after I sort out what in willing to spend on such a build
Here's a link to open baffle subwoofer design www.hifizine.com/2012/12/subwoofer-origami/ check out the w frame and the dipole w frame www.hifizine.com/files/2012/03/Slot-loaded-open-baffle.png www.hifizine.com/files/2012/03/Slot-loaded-W-frame.png www.hifizine.com/files/2012/03/Ripole.png (my current fav to try) lautsprechershop.de/pdf/ripol/ridtahler.pdf
Check out Ron Paulk's channel. He has plans available for $25 or less for a a lightweight build table that will be perfectly flat. It's also easy to hang up on the garage wall so it's out of the way.
Great video. I highly recommend a pair or more of saw horses. Gets your enclosure up to an ergonomic work height and allows lots of clamp location options.
You can use the 2nd half as a fixture to hold the interior panels I. The correct positions. Once those panels are dry you can remove 2and half panel, check everything and then glue the 2nd half on . Thanks for the video!
@12:00 you talk about the energy that a 21" sub produces and to use extra glue to re-enforce joints for a stronger bond... I'm curious why you didn't countersink some wood screws into the box. Does that kit not allow it? Also, I see that kit is pre-cut for delivery. For people that have a CNC machine, are the plans public? My HOA would not allow a sub that big. The neighbors would complain for sure.
The glue is stronger than screws when attaching wood to wood. This is a consumer product so I wouldn’t think the plans would be available anywhere. The sub can play as loudly or quietly as you like. Just set your dials where it works for you!
You should have bought a Brad nailer for this build. I have a Ryobi 18v nailer that works great. Once you get one you will be wondering why you waited so long to get one. Can’t wait to see the REW results.
Are there any companies that do what GSG Audio does, but with Plywood? MDF, Particleboard, and OSB are not exactly ideal for portable/live audio, and I'm interested in building some 21" subs for my PA system for my band. We currently have front-loaded EAW speakers(1x18" Subs, 15"+1" horn tops) and 10,000 Watts of power(5 x 2,000 watt Class D amplifiers.) We're strictly Heavy Metal, and the drummer uses a pair of 28" kick drums, that are completely detuned and half filled with muffling because the sound we are after is.... you know when a delivery truck drives by, and you don't necessarily "hear" it but you feel it? We are looking for that type of low end. It is those lowest lows that we are after. say below 60hz, so these 21" subs would essentially just be used to cover that range below 60hz.... maybe even just below 50hz. And we're not necessarily looking for horn-loaded designs, since we're typically playing under 300 capacity clubs. We do this for fun, but we are wanting to create a certain experience live.
Awesome build! I've built quite a few speakers over the years and your video and quality of build is amazing. Great job and I'm super impressed. You even got me to sign in to comment. I'll be watching more of your work! Thanks!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate the comment and the subscription! More to come too. I have 2 Marty Cubes waiting on warmer weather to build! Maybe next weekend!
Nice build . I think of folded anything, I think of Loud outdoor systems. I would like to see what you can do with let's say a quality 12 in a true transmission line cabinet
I would use builders adhesive a good quality one on all the cross members only the joints look very gappy. Did you not use any dampening material behind the driver?
John sweda A good carpenters glue is stronger than the cabinet material. It will exceed the strength of wood and far exceed mdf or particle board. The glue joint will not fail, I have learned this the hard way ! I choose to use a carpenters glue over construction adhesive for several reasons, it is easier to clean up, don't have to worry about wearing gloves to avoid skin contact and as stated on construction adhesive info "use only in well ventilated areas" (don't breathe the vapours!).
If you seek true cinema sound, why not buy true cinema speakers? There are plenty of used pro JBL subs and cinema systems for sale on eBay and such. Could have bought a used 4642 double 18 cab for around $600. At least that gives you some resale value. Could get a 4670 system or even a pair of cheap 4638 that would far surpass this. You'd be surprised of how cheap the used pro JBL cinema stuff can be.
Next build is on the way. Have the drivers and the box kits. Its the new roundover Marty Cube. This is a sub that will fit in almost everyone's theater.
Why those numbers have been made so deep probably creating weak points in the future if get hit with something on the right spot, why not just paint cause that's kinder grade instructions there.
I've been looking into building a Horn loaded enclosure for a 2003 Tahoe. I have plenty of space, I want to get loud, but I want to hit the lows as well as the high notes. As low as 26hz if possible. Any suggestions?
My guess is that something like this in a SUV would be enough to make you puke :-) I cant do comparisons to folks doing 160db burps but this thing gets damn loud in a room... something like this with room gain in a car has to be pretty sick. Id love to hear what you decide to do. Yes, this can do 26hz. Maybe needs a little EQ to help though.
Build a 4th order my man PA is very different to Car audio look up ExoContralto and His 160DB car little Blue he runs two 18s on 10k watts doing 161DB and 157DB on music also his subs go down to 24hz or so...
Check out Bill Fitzmaurice's designs. He has alot of horn loaded DIY speaker designs. I've built several and have never heard anything that compares. Look at the Tuba THT if you wanna get crazy. billfitzmaurice.info/THT.html Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with Bill or any other speaker manufacturer. Just love this kind of stuff.
Look up submaximus v3 I've built 4 now with 21s loaded in them they go down to 17hz but are huge 36 deep 25.5 wide and 80 tall . In a suv it would just be insane
@@erikbritz2637 I hear ya. I understand the differences. I've built many different variations of 4th and 6th orders and I've built many ported boxes and walled set ups. I watched the build log for EXO's Frankenstein and Little Blue. I'm not new to any of that. I've been into car audio for a long time and I want to do something different. I wouldn't be the first to build a Horn in an SUV. I've never gotten a demo of one but I will when I get the chance. I'm not just going to build a horn outside then put it in, I'm going to design it to be built inside my truck. Its gotta be loud as shit, I just want to build it large enough to play low as well as high. Right now I have 2 15's ported tuned to 28hz. I love it, I love the lows, but I love the highs as well. The 4ths and 6ths I've built had very good bandwidth, but want it as loud as I can get and I think a horn is the way to go. Just to do something crazy as well.
Just seen Zeos mention you and saw you in the comments thought I'd come check the channel out. Anybody doing DIY 21" subs is someone I'm happy to watch
I watched another video of a man's speaker system he was saying his bass went to 15 Hz and the highs went to 45,000 Hz, I guess you cab feel the low bass but you cannot hear lower than 35 Hz or hear much past 15,000 Hz so what is the point of getting below 30 Hz even that you can only feel and most of these subwoofers do not put out a true 30 ft bass wave the Klipschhorn does using walls to create the wave.
You can feel bass all the way down to 0. I try to build flat down to 10 hz. Anything over 20K is useless. And anything over 15-17K is useless once you hit 50ish too.
Nice build video. Looked through the comments, and, I too, would love to know, exactly, what the design is. Now... Not, a critique, but, I did a full build /install of a BFM THTLP( 15" Folded Horn )/setup w/REW, used it for 6~8 months.... removed the driver, bought a second driver, built two sealed enclosures, installed/ set up w/REW, and, have been MUCH happier. Did the FH go LOW, YES, ... was it LOUD, YES,... For me!.... multiple sealed enclosure subs WINS..... Hands own/No contest... YMMV.... I still have the THT/LP cab, would gladly give it to someone who proves they have a driver for it, RSS390HF, wants to use it, and, will pick it up in the Palm Springs, CA area......... I'll keep a watch on JDM World... LOVE The DIY Audio STUFF!!!!!.......... Oh, and, TOTALLY Agree with the Minidsp for Sub control, nothing better @ PricePoint.........
I'm confused. Where's the horn part of this design? It looks more like a 4th order bandpass alignment. The mouth size and "horn" length are off by a factor of about 20 and I don't see any flare in it. What kind of horn is this? Also, if it really was a "horn" you're not doing it any favors by putting the mouth so close to the sofa. If you're going to speak authoritatively on these things let's get your facts, figures and terminology straight.
The high tuned devastator is the one for you for sure! Used by lots of people for this exact purpose. shop.gsgad.com/collections/horn-subwoofers/products/devastator-mkii-horn-baltic-birch-music-edition-single-unit please use the code jilesgsg when you order!
man that's just too much work. Why not save all that time and just buy a high quality REL or JL sub and call it a day? At least you know what to expect sound wise and have something quality and not a garage job. Also subs should be placed in front corners not in middle of rear wall. That's probably the worst place to put a sub.
The main reason is because you can't buy anything like this from JL or REL. They simply don't make gear like this because they are mass market. And you should try nearfield before you knock it. Its a different world from just trying to corner load small subs to increase output.
Now I just "discover" JDM World channel & this was 1st vid to watch- I gotta say quality, detail, practical way shown and in the way every one can get it. From point what to get before start of build and from start to finish, all eventual problems already solved - everything is served on a plate, pre-chewed :) - no way this build can fail ! Things I like here is the way of construction with reinforcements and how front panel look - "vents" or bass reflex - just mighty for my taste and finish of whole box is like that - solid, simple without trace of some BS - just mighty ... :) Thank you very much for sharing, video "liked", channel and bell too. Off to check out other videos, cheers !
No screws in the cabinet? Don't use that cab for pa use!! I'd have that suka glued and definitely screwed! Also t nuts for the driver and access hatch. Has anyone ever seen nylock tnuts? Seems like it would be a good idea for high vibration atmospheres.
I respect the people who make a passion or hobby from this. I am also passionate about acoustics and really? I did choose not this type of box... Based on the TS parameters, or direct take the drawings from internet, make one tts 56 like Rcf has. Almost there... Also that project can be a little improved but the box will be a little bigger ( anyway is huge). Compare then the sound. All the respect for your work.
Wouldn't that depend on the glue? For example the glue I use requires >0.7MPa clamping pressure to get the optimal result (10+ MPa tensile strength), and that's something you won't get with a nailer.
I like the kits, i wish the wood was a lighter weight baltic birch, if this is for install thats cool but for mobile applications it would be a headache with mdf will swell if it gets moisture in the wood
What would of made this even more stronger, is fiberglassing all your seems, i build custom subwoofer boxes and it would of def came in handy here, but great work
about the weatherstripping , sumting i found in the diy store that works great is the same type of strip but wider , its used to seat open cell concrete blocks (verry light for building interior walls ) or alumium wallframing
