Hey Gordon after watching this vidio of yours & many others over this subject matter--this is my take. This EXTREME amount of effort & wrenching just announced to the world that the "warrenty on my B2601 has just expired". I completely understand the issue of chain clearance. Where as other tractor owners do so for "enhanced stability"== DANGER, with the least concern of broken axle housing & VOIDED warrantys. My same "delema" was cured by installing a heavy baffle shield over the delicate components ( it was tappered & flaired preventing the occasional chain scrape). I think Kubota Realy wanted those wheel studs to STAY there for the reason to almost NEVER comming out --to do "After-market Rigging". Have seen " used epuipment" ( B2601 &2650's) with their axle collars repaced---no paint on them is the "dead ringer" sign. Thanks for the great Video Sir and happy safe tractoring.
Good job at removing the studs but a little handheld Protane torch to heat the studs up a little bit would break the red Loctite lose and remove the studs easier, now here’s a suggestion when it comes time to put your chains on, jacked up your tractor high enough that your chains will go under the tires easily , it makes adjusting the chains so much easier than when the wheels are touching the ground
Good evening and thanks for the great tips Don! I did try the propane torch twice but it honestly did not seem to make much difference. Probably just me not doing it properly but will definitely try the chain method when I have to put them back on for the snow. Cheers and thanks again!
The “Gas wrench” is invaluable, heat is needed to release the locktite bond. I’m guessing based on the thickness of the bolt, and the hub acting as a heat sink, a standard propane plumbers torch won’t provide enough heat. Maybe the map gas providing a higher heat might work, but IMO every tractor and equipment owner should own a set of oxy-acetolyne torches. One of the last tools I’ve ever get rid of.
Love all your videos GP. But I thought I would chime in for other viewer's. It has taken me 20+ years wrenching to get into my thick skull the value of heat. ALWAYS have a flame or even heat gun nearby when removing big bolts. Heat can not only do a lot of the work for you but can also save time and money preventing wrecking parts when removing torqued or seized bits. Heat applied correctly removes torque/compression in an of itself. Then use impact. Continuous offset torque (from breaker bar or wrench) deforms.
A few ideas, heat studs ( it will break the lock tite bond ), add beet juce ( or some other non- corrosive liquid ) to all your tires for weight, stability and traction. Have fun, be safe !
I'm glad i watched this - I'm going to put chains on my B2601. A technique for putting a tire back on a rim. I'm no longer strong enough to sit on my butt and lift a tire into position. So I use a fulcrum and a lever. For a tire the size of the B2601 rear I'd (probably) use a 2x4 flat on the ground and parallel to the tire. Then get something for a lever - maybe another, longer, 2x4. Again, I'll have to try different sizes to get it right. The tire needs to be tilted a little in at the top I push down on the lever to balance the tire. Then you can move the tire without the weight a little left/right and the lever can be used to adjust height. I've done this myself on 3/4T truck tires. You may need someone to run the lever for a B2601 tire. But is sure beats lifting. Oh yes, BP is a Canadian - I should have typed Tyre...
Very nice video and job well done. One of the nicest channels on RU-vid.. Thanks for your time and effort while making these viseos. Many blessings to you and yours.
Thanks for showing the procedure. It was quite a job! I have Talon Chains (Part# 12416AST) on my Kubota B3350SUHSD with filled AG tires. My dealer said I wouldn't need spacers for these chains, but I found there was NO way Talons would fit. So, I had to send the tractor back to the dealer for the $300 spacers. I do like having a wider wheel spacing for stability; always a good idea on a tractor. I have found, that for just moving snow on level ground with my bucket - I don't need chains. I imagine if you had a hill with ice, chains would be a must. Likewise for muddy ground.
Thanks nano! I find the same thing here . I am ok on reasonable level surfaces and even on small inclines or hills. But that big Steep hill gets me a few times very winter. LOL. But hopefully not this year. Thanks again and all the best!
Great job GP, really did a great video too, now go play some for a couple days and check the torque a couple times and you’re ready. We had snow up in Amarillo last night according to the weather. We are to have a 50’s day tomorrow in East Texas so winter might sneak into our area this year? You all be safe up there and have some fun. Get Carol to start getting involved some, you can have cooking, or coffee breaks in your videos and walking into or out of your videos. Thanks for sharing with us. Hey Guy, how you doing? 👍
Thanks ODD! Lots to do this weekend here. I had flurries this last week here too so it's getting close. Will pass along to Guy. All the best to you and yours! Cheers!
Great video Gord . Have never seen anyone install spacers on the wheels before . I'm sure you have helped out quite a few people . You have a good Kubota dealer because he got you the parts . Al from Lummnah Acres needed parts for his mower and the dealer ( Kubota ) told him that he had to order the parts on-line himself . Talk about bad dealer service . Larkin looks like a great dealer to deal with . Let the snow fly . Gord is ready for it . LOL
LOL. Good morning Henry. Yes, Larkin is awesome. This happened on Friday afternoon. I called them and they had the parts ordered in and at the parts desk at 8:00 am Saturday morning. I though for sure I would be waiting with the tractor on jack stands for a few days. They are great. You bet! Let the white stuff come! Cheers and all the best Henry!
Cheers from Wisconsin! I wanted to thank you again for posting this video. I just watched AK dadstuff install his BORA spacers, and also saw your comments on them. I will be getting them for sure because of the easy way they install. What I love about this whole social media thing, is that we get raw information, and honest people as yourself, show not only the successes, but frustrations in some products and implements. If it weren't for you posting your struggles with your spacers, I'd be certain to be having the same struggles myself. I definitely thanked AKdadstuff for his posting, but I wanted to ESPECIALLY thank you for yours, and the headache I'll be able to avoid.
Good morning IHB! That's great! Thank you very much for the kind comments. And for the long time support. Have fun with the mod installation - and stay safe out there! Cheers!
I'm surprised that those studs were threaded into the hubs and not pressed in like their vehicular cousins. An excellent video GP and one that I am sure will benefit a lot of compact owners of all brands. You did good sir. Btw, you should swing by one of these days when I have to change one of the fluid filled 14.9-38's....LOL. It should take two men and a boy, but you know sometimes a guy has a trick or two up his sleeve. I continue to be impressed with your very succinct and professional way of delivering understandable information to the viewers !! Now a hamfisted backyard shade tree mechanic like myself would have stuck any old nut on the studs and welded them in place, then used an air impact to remove them. Like I say though: Don't do as I say and don't do as I do.....LOL Again, great video sir.
LOL! Well, one of the mechanics suggested I do the same thing but of course, that would require I had a welding machine and the air impact, and knew how to use them. LOL. But hey, you make do with what you got. Thanks T - mission accomplished! Have a good week my friend!
Thanks for another great video, I had success with the cram nut method. My B2301 studs battled me to the very last thread, I was a mechanic years ago, and never had a battle like that with Loctite or anything else for that matter - lol, I thought for sure that first one was cross threaded, but nope, every last one was like that. Then I hoped for the other side would be different - lol,, nope. Thanks again, lovethe videos
Good morning and thanks very much! Happy the cooler weather is coming your way. Getting very chilly here now so I was happy to get this done before the white stuff gets ere. Enjoy the rest of the weekend!
Hey there GP!!! For a guy who says he doesn't know about being a mechanic you did a great job on this wheel spacer job!!! I like how you explained the steps. It shows you understand why you're doing what you're doing!!! The spacers are a good idea I'd say. The first winter I had chains on my tractor they caught on the treadle linkage. Bent it pretty good and it still isn't as good as it was but I managed to get it straightened out pretty good!!! Thanks for sharing this experience GP and take care!!!
Good evening and thanks Grampie! Quite a job for a guy like me I have to admit. I think I called Guy about a dozen times throughout. LOL. But all good. Done. And ready for old man winter. Thanks again and have a wonderful weekend!
Good job as usual you have the right amount of mechanical knowledge for what you are doing and know how to research to do it right i would have done it a little differently with the same results but the trolls and safety clowns would have got me one tip when putting the tire back on put the tractor in neutral and spin the hub to line them up or put down some plastic with dish soap on it makes the tire slide easy good luck Ps I have been falling this and thought of a good bonus with the chains is they will brake up some of the ice as you work this winter thanks a gain
Good morning and thanks Dale! That's a great idea about spinning the hub- didn't even think of that. LOL. But would have been much easier. Thanks again and enjoy the weekend!
You’re more of a mechanic than you know. Good job. What I am surprised by is red loctite should be released by heat or it used to be. And you are right about rechecking torque because of painted surfaces on spacers. You impress me more every video by trying and learning new things. Most people’s limits are because they are afraid to ask questions when they don’t know. Keep up the good work. Cheers!
Thanks very much David! A few folks, including Guy, suggested the heat. I tried it on two of them but it didn't;t seem to help much. Guy figured it might be some other type of compound was used. Thanks again and I agree, you have to keep trying to learn new things. Cheers and have a wonderful weekend!
Thanks very much for this video Gord! I just installed wheel spacers on my L4060. The cram nut method worked like a charm. The hardest part was putting the loaded wheels back on. Did this on a beautiful 20 degree November day. Just waiting for my chains to arrive now.
As a mechanic of 38 years I will say you did a good job. With jobs like this, just take your time, be safe, and after it's done you will have gained some experience.
Good day and thanks very much! I appreciate it. Was a good learning for me and really happy it worked out. I checked the torque twice and it is holding so I will check it again next week. Thanks again and all the best!
Enjoy the Trygg chains and the spacers. This is exactly what I did for my B2650 last winter. By the time I hit February the only choice was to use chains due to ice accumulation. The spacers in theory also help with stability around steeper inclines/declines. During the nadir of winter I still almost got stuck in a bad spot with the tryggs. But that was 100% operator fault! Your video is a good reminder to get the chains ready. I don't want to do the install in February when it is -15c and only 200 feet from the Atlantic ocean.
Thanks - I am looking forward to it Ron! Wow. Yup, I wouldn't want to be out in that weather doing it either. But I'll bet you have a pretty spectacular view. LOL. Stay safe and warm this winter. Cheers!
I think you are braver than I am. I'm not sure I would have tried that, but I did enjoy watching you do it. Thanks. Hi Guy, hope things are well with you and yours.
Nice video. Looks like plenty of clearance for the chains now. Good job. They make a Stud removal replacement tool for about $20 U.S.. I have used one on several occasions. Thanks for sharing.
Fantastic instructional video GP. I don't think you need all the disclaimers, I doubt a tractor dealer mechanic would have done it any better. I've been thinking of wheel spacers for a while for my Kioti to help with stability on the hills of my property, seeing you do it has given me the confidence to have a go. I'm sure I'll be watching this video a few more times. I reckon you'll have the right setup for the snow this year.
Good morning and thanks Mark! LOL. I put them in just in case. :) I have to admit, it was a challenge for me but happy it worked out and I agree- I think I am ready for the white stuff now. Have a great weekend and good luck with the Kioti! Cheers!
Nice work and great video Gord! Very instructional. If you ever have to - I hope not - remove the wheels and put back on again, grab ya some 3ft bars, pipes, even old tool handles like axe handles and put on either side of wheel/tire and use leverage to help lift up and manuver wheel/tire back in alignment and up in place... Save that back my man. Hope your family has a wonderful weekend.👍☺
Good job. FYI if you put a little heat to the studs from a little propane torch you would have simplified your job. Locktite is actually a plastic sealant and heat melts it. You could have almost taken them out with your fingers. They would have gone back in easier too with that little heat. I was a mechanic by trade...
Hey good day and thanks Richard. I tried the torch on two of them but it didn't seem to help any. Guy suggested they may have used a different compound ( or i was applying it incorrectly). But wish it had worked. LOL. Thanks again and all the best!
RED Loctite generally requires heat to break loose ( that is why you use BLUE if you expect to remove the studs ). This does not mean red hot - and try heating the stud only to avoid warping the flange. Good job using the tools at hand. I am glad none of them broke off. Cheers and take care
Good evening Sir, very well done GP !!! You are very good at showing and demonstrating safety practices and tools handling too !!! Like at told you before, you are mechanic !!! Keep up the good work and you too have a great TGIF !!! Cheers !!!
GP, the strong part is the top jaw on an adjustable wrench. I noticed you were hammering on the bottom jaw of the wrench to get the studs out. You could break the adjustable wrench that way. I really enjoyed the video you produced as I want to get spacers for my B2601. You used 1 1/2 inch spacers I would like to use 2 inch but I don’t know how they will work with my 60 inch mid mount mower. I need to talk to my dealer. Thank you for the informative video! Wayne from Wisconsin
wow, that was a hard enough job without having all the extra work of explaining every step and keeping the cameras rolling. thanks for taking the time. great video.
Glad I don't have to deal with chains and snow, just earthquakes, fires, etc. lol. Your rear tires looks like the same size as my L2501. Mine are filled too and I'd hate to have to change one. My JD 4320 are filled also and weigh around 4-500lbs. The only thing I've heard that's an issue with extending front/rear wheels out, is the possibility of axle/bearing damage due to excessive weight on the end of the axles. Those wheel extenders don't extend the wheels out far enough to be a concern tho. I've seen tires extended out 12+ inches and that's an issue, especially with loaders and heavy 3pt loads. Have a great weekend. Cheers my friend.
Good morning Tim! LOL. Thanks for the good info about the width of the extension. I had read the same thing and found an aftermarket type but they were 3" spacers and so I thought it was best to go with the Kubota spacers since I know they would be specifically designed for my tractor. They are only 1 3/8" inches wide. I am happy I did now, as several folks have said the same thing you have. Hope all is going great! Cheers!
@@GPOutdoors I don't know if you get the US news up there, but north of me there is over 140k people under evacuation orders this AM (10/27) and around 2.2M people without power due to PG&E power shutoff. I can see a fire over in the west hills on my NW tower cam. The Kincaide fire really took off early this AM due to wind gusts of up to 80mph in the Napa/Santa Rosa areas. 2 Old wineries have already burned. I have a friend who has property in Lake County and I don't know if that area is under evacuation or not. I assume it is. I have wind gusts on my commercial weather station of 28.8 mph so far. This is supposed to last thru Sunday eve up to Monday 1100. Some of the areas that burned in the Tubb fire of 2017 are part of the evacuation order. Not looking good so far. The way Calif is going, I mite have to move to Canada, lol. Have a great day Gord. Cheers from Tim in SF Bay Area.
hey thanks for telling me Tim. My daughter is in LA currently but hopefully ok. Unfortunately I don't have TV or any reasonable news up at the cabin so while I am here, I have to rely on Guy or Bob to fill me in on things. So I had not heard. Hope for the best for everyone. wow. thanks again. Cheers!
Wow... you did well. That was very enlightening. I am really surprised that given the way the studs are secured to the hub that Kubota would use spacers that need new longer studs. With a lot of spacers on the market, the spacers will bolt to the hub using the original studs and nuts and then the spacers themselves will have a second set of studs for attaching the wheel. Along with plenty of clearance for the chains you should have improved stability on side slopes.
Good day and thanks Joe! Me too. I had seen another aftermarket type that was designed as you suggested so I assumed the Kubota ones would be similar. I'm all ready now for the winter! Cheers and thanks again!
I just ordered wheel spacers for hill stability. Your video is extremely valuable giving me a good idea what I am facing. I am going with 3” spacers for the rear and 2” up front. Thanks for this informative video. And I agree with another comment, your mechanical skills are really very good. I felt bad for what you asked your small jack to do but it came thru.
Morning Greg! Good stuff. I am happy it was helpful. That little guy is rated for 4,000 lbs believe it or not, and the tractor weighs about 2,000 so I think it was ok. Good luck with the spacers and have a great weekend! Hope you are getting the sunshine and warmth we are here. Cheers!
Hi Gord! Man, that looked like a pain to do but well done. This was a very good instructional video for a non-instructional video! LOL. You clearly did you homework ahead of time. Thanks for sharing!
LOL. Thanks Charles! Yes, I think I messed up the terminology perhaps. A "Jam Nut" is, up here, an actually specifically engineered nut used for this same purpose but it is designed and built to be the nut you put behind the main nut. I think "Cram" nut is kind of slang for when we just use two nuts and tighten them together. LOL. In my case, I didn't;t purchase a Jam nut - I just used two of the wheel nuts together. Perhaps If I had though, maybe I would not have cross thread all the nuts. Thanks! And enjoy the weekend! Hoping for a little sunshine up here. :))
Let me give you a tip when you use the nut trick to take off the tire bolts put the lug nuts on against each other grab two wrenches for the front one and one for the back one what's your going do is lock them together as you tighten the back one go loosen on the front one till tight now they are locked to take off the wheel bolt use only the front nut to take it off the back nut going keep the front one from turning and make sure you use the right wrench that fix the nut a loose one will round it off
G P a lot of work goes into something that looks like a easy job reminds me when I started building Manitowoc Cranes the were all hand built but as you said gives you pleasure when done God Bless PaK
Great video! I’m considering a Kubota as my first tractor purchase soon, and your videos have been very helpful! I’ve been a professional mechanic for years, and as others have suggested I would recommend heat to loosen the loctite prior to removal.
Great job. What a pain in the neck getting those wheel studs off! Little snow here in central VA, so I shouldn't have to worry about chains, but still a good watch to add to the mental catalog. Thanks!
I just put 3" spacers on my L3901 and I did not remove the wheel studs. They fit perfectly on existing studs and came with the hardware needed to attach the wheel. Also, I have a dolly made with 2x4 and 2x6 which I slid right underneath the tired. I then strapped the tire on to the dolly and never had to lift or roll the tire during the whole process. Just move it out of the way.
Very good mod for your tractor. As for the original Kubota lug nuts I have found them to be of low quality. The metal is soft and the walls are thin. I always replace them with better quality nuts on any tractor I own.
Great video coverage of a job really well done, Gord! I’m trying to imagine doing this myself on my L4060 with 14.9x24 loaded tires LOL, I believe there is over 400 lb of liquid ballast alone, not even including the weight of the the tire and rim... not something you’d want to fall over! A few years ago, my brother helped me replace the brake pads on my old Massey 50 (12x28 loaded tires), and even with two of us it was a hair-raising job. I’m not getting any younger so probably a job for my dealer should I ever need to do this. By the way, I concur with one of the other comments that with care and patience, some heat, even from a household propane torch, can be quite effective at breaking down locktite - even the “permanent” stuff. Nevertheless, a few well chosen tools and strong arms can also do the job, as you well demonstrated! Cheers!
Good morning Dave! LOL. I concur. Not sure I would want to try taking those off either. :)) I tried the propane torch on a couple of them but not sure it really helped at all, but then again I may have done it incorrectly. Have a great weekend!
Looks like a good job to me and I know this is a bit late but for the future I'll share a thought. First as others have said bit of heat makes it much easier to get those studs out and second if you're replacing them with new I have found that welding the nut to the old stud makes short work of getting them out. I know, "now you tell me" any way you got it now. Thanks for sharing and good luck with the snow!
LOL. - Never too late for good advice Rick. And always appreciated. You never know - I may need that advice for something else that cosalong one day. Thanks again and all the best! Cheers!
wow! thats some work gp! i never would have thought those studs was threded on the hub side. though they would be like cars with the ribs on one end and threads on the other side. well you learn something new everyday.
Another great video GP!! I really enjoyed watching! You were very detailed and you covered all the bases! You made a pretty tough job look easy! lol I like the clearance you have now for them chains. Have a great weekend GP!!
Good job GP a couple of suggestions. A little heat goes a long way on loctite. A propane torch is more than enough. Also please don't hammer on adjustable wrenches. The jam nut method you want to tighten them against each other with two wrenches to jam them against each other then use the inside nut to loosen the stud. There is also a stud remover tool made for the job.
Hey good morning and thanks for the suggestions James. I appreciate it. I did try the propane torch on two of them but it didn't seem to help much (but I may have been applying it incorrectly). Agree - didn't want to hammer on them but they just would not budge at all. I had a length of pipe as well to try to get leverage but there is little room under that fender to use it. I had called two parts places in nearby towns but neither of them carried the stud remover. I think that would have been ideal for sure. Thanks again for the helpful advice. Always appreciated. Enjoy the weekend!
Very informative video! I originally added spacers for stability. Nice to know they will help with chains in the future on my BX! I'm sure those loaded tires were a hand full to move around!
Nice vid GP! If you ever have to take the wheel off again, I’d suggest you get yourself a long breaker bar, and your foot to do the wedge method and you’ll get you tire back on just like you do a car. Look up changing a semi truck tire. Much easier but great vid
When you are dealing with heavy tires use a long bar and slide it under the tire, perpendicular to it. It makes it a lot easier to get it lined up. I use one 3-4 feet long.
I think you also gave yourself a bit more stability with the spacers by widening your stance, should prove beneficial on uneven ground and with heavier loads.
Being from Caseville in the thumb where it's flat I appreciate the need for a wider foot print. I know the landscape of the U.P. . Our daughter went to northern, go cats, and getting a tractor back on it's feet doesn't need to happen when you can prevent it. Thanks for the info. My B2620 may get the same. Keep the greasy side down.
glad to see you did not run it very long before putting the spacers on only seen two things missing a picture of guy and a cheater bar for the pipe wrench and a propane torch for the studs okay that's three things. also Paul short also o&d life RU-vid channels had to put there spacers on
LOL Bob! Well, let me be honest. I think I called Guy about 10 times throughout the project. I attempted using the propane torch but it had minimal positive effect ( Guy's suggestion), and he gave me a cheater pipe but I didn't need it. LOL. OK, you got me! Cheers and thanks for the comment and for watching! I think you and Guy would get along quite well. LOL. Cheers!
Once its cured, thread locker can be "softened" into compliance with mild heat. Soaking the hub with a heat gun before you start would make it a world easier. A torch would work too but then the paint gets cooked-off and you risk damaging the axle seal.
Looks like a lot of work on the wheel spacers. I took the easy way and used Bro-Tek wheel spacers that just bolt in to the existing studs, and then have bolts/studs that attach the wheels to the spacer. Easier, but now I will have to remove the wheels every so often to check the torque on the studs holding the spacers on to the tractor. Easy now, harder later..... Cheers!
Good job GP.......now thats prolly the best video out there on this particular job......lots of good info for sure.....thanx for posting my friend and have a good week....... :)
Good morning Jim. It sure would have been much better for me. I called 2 automotive places in nearby towns and the one rental place and no one had one. But wish I could have found one. I think it would have been much easier for me. Thanks for watching and enjoy the rest of the weekend!
Well done. Note for everyone. I worked 40 years on my knees and it wasn't until I retired and moved up and bought a kubota that I found the perfect knee pads. I was using them I somehow had but didn't know I had and I couldn't believe how perfect they were. They do not hurt and I put them on every time I go outside to work even if I don't feel I need to kneel. I end up coming into the house with them on because I forgot I have them on. I found the online at HD. They are Tommyco brand. The 1" foam with 1 strap. Less then $5 American!! I have about 12 pairs in different areas and have even away about a dozen pari to friends who I see abusing their knees. No replacement knees for me!! They don't stock them. Tommyco T-Foam Light Duty Kneepads $4.92 pr. Don't let Light Duty fool u!! Best ever!!!!
I broke a valve stem on rear tire and jammed wood into the bead of my L4701 getting to close to a butt end of a log while dragging more to slash pile. Learning experience getting the wheel- tire off to take to tire shop. 550 lbs weight of wheel, tire, Rim Guard. Done one man, strap hand winch, bottle Jack and blocks. Once fixed and vertical again off the trailer, ended up placing tractor in nuetral to rotate studs to wheel holes with scissor Jack and 2×6 on tire and against trailer hitch on truck to supply inward push of 550 lbs. Once studs rotated to line up with vertical height correct popped on. Figuring out a process that works is the fun part.
Wow. I don't envy you Tim! LOL. But great idea about neutral and spinning the tire. I should have thought of that. And good caution about working in the forest. I spent most of this past week doing just that, so I need to make sure I stay sharp. Cheers and thanks for sharing. And hey, glad you did it!
Nice job, GP. The job never is as easy as it appears when someone else does it, right? Excellent walk-through and you'll be set for those chains. I'm glad you decided on the spacers b/c of those chains. I was wondering what size spacers you were going to install. The spacers appeared to give you a nice amount of room to allow for chain play. Enjoyed a full-watch. See you on your next video.
LOL Houndsman! So true. I remember telling Guy the "simple" steps I would go through to get it done. And then I called him about a dozen times while I was doing it. LOL. Sure seemed simple when I was planning it. Have a great weekend and thanks!
Again...good job cheif! I always wanted to know how much it would take to get the job done. I wasn't a believer in chains for my 2650 but this last storm of 30 cm. Of wet snow made me reconsider!😎 keep an eye on the tree line for you know what!!!
Gord, if I understand how you used the jack and jackstands, you left the weight of the tractor on the jack and used the jackstands only as a backup in case the jack failed. What you want to do is jack it up, position the jackstand on the side you are working on, and then let the jack down with all the weight on the jackstand . . . no weight on the jack. If that is what you did, that's great; it just wasn't shown, and you never want to count on a jack to hold it up while working on it.
Good morning and thanks for the great advice Cyclist. You're right - I left the weight on the hydraulic jack. I lifted the jack stands up to meet the height but did not release the pressure off the jack. Thanks for the good tip. Super helpful. Have a great weekend!
I would like to install spacers on our tractor. They would make the tractor a tad more stable. I have heard though that adding spacers to the wheels can cause extra pressure on the axle bearings, causing them to prematurely fail.
Good day TPG. This is why when it comes to serious and or main type components, I always buy from Kubota. They wouldn't make them and sell them to me unless it was engineered to work with the tractor. When it comes to less critical stuff, I will always shop around after market parts but not for serious stuff. I always buy manufacturer parts. An important point that supports your concern is that I found one aftermarket part that had a 3" spacer. My Kubota engineered spacers are 1 3/8". Thanks for the sharing the information - it is a good point. Be well. I imagine you guys are getting ready for the white stuff. Be well and be safe! Cheers!
i was more or less getting at the studs are they right hand threaded on the hub and im sure thier threaded on the lug nut side. but on vehicels you just pull them thru lug nut hole. anyway cheers and have a great day gp!
Yes good day Dale. A few folks mentioned that about vehicles ( cars). These are threaded into the hub. They go in clockwise and come out counterclockwise. And not sure but I am pretty sure the threads are interference threads because they are difficult all the way through when removing or putting them in. I hope that answered your question (?). Cheers!
@@GPOutdoors yep thank you sir. interesting. and okay we have those kind of threads at my workplace. great for saftey! those kind are way more difficult to work thier way loose. ok have a good one bud!
Hey GP I would put the chain on the tire to check how it fit when have your tire off the ground it just a idea I know it to late now. One thing I do put chains on night before it snow
Good day Richard. LOL. I thought about it but I have to admit, I was a little exhausted and was just happy I got it done after two days of struggling with it. :)) LOL. Have a great weekend and thanks for the good advice. Cheers!
Good morning Bryan! I notice a little improvement but it's not a big difference, to be honest, or at least I have not found it to be. Honestly, I am super careful on slopes so I always drive perpendicular to the slope. Thanks!
