Thanks for the compliment and for watching. Since you liked this one, you might like this one: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ulRmXe6Fcc4.htmlsi=umKoOUKUEAf2Sl1h .
Thank you so much! My workspace is a carport that is unevenly sloped, making it about impossible to create a level workspace. This is something I've been mulling over, but now, thanks to you, I have a solution. Much appreciated!
Yes, you can do that. I opted not to do that because I wanted more surface area of the foot in contact with the floor making the table less likely to slide around on the floor while working. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
This is absolutely the best video for leveling feet that I have seen, great job and great idea! I have one alteration that I plan when I use this basic design for my own workbench soon: I will laminate a layer of plywood to the outer surface of the upper block, to help prevent the block from splitting under load. Also, the plywood will be longer, such that it overhangs the foot below, helping to keep it in place and avoid splaying out under lateral forces. I'll try to report back if it works!
Great solution! After attempting and giving up on finding affordable, adjustable casters; I found your video. I am building a mobile miter saw table and wanted to utilize my existing workbench for longer cuts. Keeping my standard, locking casters, I will now be able to align my miter saw table with the existing workbench. Using your idea on the tabletop vice the feet, I will be to adjust and level to the height of the workbench.
If I understand you correctly, you are going use the same basic design but use it on the table top instead of the feet. That way you can adjust the height of the table. That's a great idea! Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Adapt it so you can use a power drill to raise and lower the blocks. And put castors onto the legs that can be made short or proud of the levelling block
Hi Andre. Those are all great suggestions! I have been thinking about doing a "version 2" video for the leveling feet. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Thanks for your comment Max. These feet have worked very well on some of my shop tables. However, I just recently built a small workbench which initially used 2 leveling feet. In the end, I decided to remove the feet and just use simple shims. Here's the link to the build video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-osaXlpIFK7Q.html Here's the link to the 2nd video explaining why I removed the leveling feet: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qdgYJ9KYjA4.html (jump to about 5:10) Good luck with your bench and thanks for watching.
Thanks for the kind words. I can't take credit for the design of the leveling feet; I saw it somewhere on the net (probably YT) and decided to try it. I think it works pretty well so I decided to make the video.
Thank you , you have now solved my problem with leveling work stations i have. p.s. a little soap on the threads will help. Please do cause it drove my dog nuts the squeaking. LMAO
Kudos for your imagination, very well done and the solution to my upcoming problem, without spending a mint on fancy lifters. Might see if i can use 3 x to get a drill and socket in there.
You're welcome! These adjustable feet work really well and are inexpensive to build. I did make a follow-up to this video showing a slight improvement to the design; here it is: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1Sy2_tdlEvo.html . If I was to make these now, I would try using an insert instead of the t-nut. Here's a video about the inserts I started using: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DHaDlEZrnRs.html Thanks for your comment and for watching!
Thanks. I actually have a separate video where I added hinged casters to a workshop table. Those work pretty nice as well. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Thank-you! If I was to make these again, I'd use inserts instead of t-nuts. If you are unfamiliar with inserts, watch this video (which I just recently released): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DHaDlEZrnRs.html Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Matt, very cool how you created the leveling blocks and I thought that I would apply it to my woodworking bench. Unfortunately, I went to Lowe's to pick up the hardware and found that the cost of everything to build it was more than the professional ones on Amazon. Cool idea though!
R P: I'm not surprised that the hardware cost at Lowes is up too high. I did a quick look at Amazon and found that the bolts are available there. Also, instead of using t-nuts, I would use inserts now. If you are not familiar with inserts, watch this video that I recently published: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DHaDlEZrnRs.html Another trusted source for hardware is McMaster-Carr. If you are not familiar with them, they are basically an online hardware store. Look here: www.mcmaster.com/screws/low-strength-steel-hex-head-screws/ Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Thanks very much. Even though I made this video quite a while ago, I still use these leveling feet on my workshop tables. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
I used a similar idea for leveling my table saw. except I let the bolt with nut on the end directly contact the ground. I drilled a deep hole in the 2x4 based and used resin to secure coupling bolts in the holes. I have more ideas. I like to make legs out of 1x4s, pinwheeled so they make a hollow squared tube. One idea is to build another squared leg that fits inside the outer leg, and contains a similar extension mechanism to yours. This way, you have a more decorative table leg, with a hidden extension. The problem is, accessing the inner bolt for adjustment. You could have an open side to reach the bolt head. I also have an idea where the inner extension is engaged with a horizontal bolt. The inner mechanism would move a bolt horizontally. The adjustment height is limited.
I have thought about using the head of a bolt as a leveling foot but I have never actually tried it. Instead, I thought using the larger footprint of a 2x4 would help to better keep the table from easily sliding around on the floor. In practice, if a table slides around, I'll add some weight to the table and that greatly helps to keep the table in place (I usually use concrete blocks because they are inexpensive but heavy). Thanks for your comment and for watching.
@@ImaginethenMake it's possible to have a wood block under the bolt head. You would run one or two long bolts recess mounted in a foot, up through some holes in the base, with springs on the upper side of the fixed base, to pull the foot upward. You probably need a drawing to understand what I'm trying to describe.
R U kidding me? This is genius. Dude, every freaking table in every freaking restaurant needs a similar mechanism added to the table legs. Has anyone reading this EVER dined out on a level table? Get rich, man!
Have you ever looked at the bottom of the table legs at restaurants? Most of them DO have a leveling screw on at least one leg. I'm one of those customers who bends down there and adjusts them to stop the rocking. My work friends usually roll there eyes, but are actually glad I did it.
This is absolutely brilliant!! I just spend 90 minutes trying to get my new workbench I built level with my new table saw and nothing worked. Thought I was going to have to rebuild it. You just saved me a lot of time and material!! Thanks!! Did you try using a cordless drill to raise\lower the adjustable feet? Would probably go a lot faster. Thanks again!!
Hi John. It sounds like you found my video just in time! I'm glad it helped you out. About using a cordless drill; most of the time, the adjustments to the feet are very slight so I just use a socket and ratchet. I have seen where another maker used a cordless drill to raise his heavy workbench high enough so he could slide a dolly under it to make moving the bench around easier. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
You guys know furniture adjustable feet? ;). However it’s nice solution if you don’t want to wait for ordered furniture adjustable feet or you simply need to have it level now.
Yes, I am aware of furniture adjustable feet. The design in this video however, provides more surface area in contact with the floor which might help the table from sliding around when working on it. You could also add some scrap pieces of rubber, leather, or yoga matt to the bottoms of the feet to further help prevent sliding. This design is also a DIY design which was what I was looking for. Some people use carriage bolts threaded into inserts mounted in the bottom of the legs. I haven't tried this but I suspect the table would slide around on my concrete garage floor. I also think the bolts would be more difficult to adjust to get the table level. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
This is a really nice solution and gives more security than shop bought levelling feet. I'm just wondering how I can adjust it to be more load bearing.
All of the weight of the table is supported by the threads of the 4 bolts. In this case, I used 3/8" bolts; using 1/2" bolts would increase the weight capacity. Perhaps consider using more than 4 feet for the table; how about 6 or 8? More feet and more bolts create more load capacity. Having said that, I have always felt the four 3/8" bolts are large enough to carry the weigh on my tables. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
@@ImaginethenMake For any workbench, I can't really think of a better solution than yours. It's just that I was also considering your solution for heavy duty load bearing shelves because my floors are uneven.
If I had a lot of weight to support, I would probably use wooden shims. They are inexpensive if you buy them but they are also easy enough to make (a piece of wood cut into a wedge shape). Good luck!
@@ImaginethenMake So in your experience, you can build precisely, and then shim up any imbalance, rather than trying to make the whole thing on an uneven floor? I was thinking of attempting this in my next build because last build I worked directly on the uneven floor and cutting the custom sized legs and trying to get it all fitting perfectly with just a circular saw was a hassle.
Yes, I try to cut the legs of tables as precisely as possible and then either add the leveling feet or shims to account for any unevenness in the floor. I think it is worth noting here that even professional machine builders (who build VERY heavy industrial machinery used in factories) use metal shims (typically flat pieces of steel not wedges) or leveling feet (large bolts screwed in or out) to level a machine and make sure it does not rock.
I don't own a Worx Pegasus but I took a quick look at it online. I believe the legs have rubber pads on the bottom to help keep it from sliding around on the floor. Maybe get some thin pieces of rubber or antiskid pad and use that as a shim to take the rock out of the table? Thanks for your question and for watching.
Thanks. I appreciate your support. Yes, these leveling feet are easy to add and do a great job at taking the "rock" out of a wobbling table. I can't take credit for the design though. I don't remember where I found it but I'm certain that I saw it here on YT somewhere.
I tried a modification to your extendable leveling blocks. My table saw stand sits on a rolling base with no breaks on any casters, so it moves while sawing (not good!) So, I thought the blocks could also act to keep it in one place. It looked like your t-nuts were in the top of the movable/extending feet, right? I first tried them on the foot-end and they just unscrewed when I retracted the feet, so I put them on the top of the blocks. That seems to work better, but now they pull out of the foot block when I raise them too far. The t-nuts snug up to the lock nuts above them. That makes the whole thing rotate with the bolt, little teeth bend and then the t-nut pulls out. Did you have any issues and make any changes to how they were built? Should I epoxy them in and/or use a couple flat head screws to secure them? Thanks for the inspiration!
Hi Ed. Yes, I did have the same issue with the T-nuts pulling out. I thought about using epoxy (but didn't try it) and also tried a couple of flat head screws to hold the T-nuts in place. Instead, I decided to do this this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1Sy2_tdlEvo.html . Thanks for your comment and for watching.
@@ImaginethenMake Nice fix. Thanks for sharing the link. In my case, I have two bolts into one long foot on each side of my caster base under my table saw (more to act as a brake than to level). There is very little clearance from the floor. I used construction adhesive and two small flathead screws to hold the t-nuts in place. I didn't have nyloc nuts for the bolts so used two nuts and had to recess the hole in the fixed block (base, in my case). My bolts are too long, so I put another nut at the top, so there is now bolt threads above the base. The bolt seems to thread through the nuts if I cinch up or down too far, instead of just spinning as I try to raise the foot. Then it continues to unthread from the foot when raising. I think I need to lock that top nut or get nylocs to make it work better. Cheers!
As others have said.....genius, and you may have just saved my workbench project. What was it you used 2x4’s? What was the rough length and width dimensions of each piece? how high up from the bottom of the leg did you put the permanent piece? I have lockable caster wheels on each leg of my workbench which are about 5 1/2 inches. Would these feet interfere with the wheels at all? Sorry for so many questions but again I think this will solve my issue :-)
Hi Bobby. Yes, I used 2x4 pieces to make the feet. I'll try to post the dimensions for the feet here this weekend. I'm not sure if these feet will interfere with your casters or not; it's hard for me to tell without seeing the construction. I would guess though, if the feet were on the front side of the legs for your workbench and casters were on the sides of the legs, it might work. Thanks for your comment and for watching. PS: Not sure if you saw my hinged casters video. If not, here's a link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ulRmXe6Fcc4.html . This approach might also help you out.
The 2x4 blocks to make the feet are all 3" long. The top block is 3.75" from the floor. I hope this answers your questions. Good luck with your project.
Yes, you could epoxy in the T-nut (just make sure no epoxy gets on the threads). You could also use an insert instead of a T-nut. I've also seen people use a screw over one of the flanges of the T-nut to help lock it in place. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
If my goal is to eliminate a rock, and not to have the table top truly horizontal, do I need a leveling foot on all 4 legs? Would a leveling foot on any 2 adjacent legs allow me to accomplish that? Seems to me that to correct a rock you only need to use and extend one foot, since the other 3 legs are already triangulated and on the ground.
Thanks for your question. I'm not quite sure how to answer because I'm not sure what angle you want the table top at. Also, I'm not sure how uneven your floor is or how unequal your table legs are. I suppose you could start with 2 legs and if that meets your needs, then you're done. If not, then consider adding the other 2. I hope this helps and thanks for watching.
It was quite a while ago, but I think I drilled a 3/8" hole using a twist bit. I'm using 2x4s so the wood is fairly soft. The bolt that goes through the hole only has to spin when I'm tightening or loosening it. The hole through the block is fairly long so I probably used a drill press to keep the drill bit perpendicular to the block. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
You're welcome. If you have any other questions about any of my videos, feel free to leave a comment. I check the comments several times per week and try to answer each one.
Thanks for your comment. I know what you mean......when I was in High School, it seemed only guys took shop class. But things are different now and it is fun to see so many people making things with all kinds of materials.
