Correct. You save the fuse and destroy the rest. Diode should be the solution based on what you describe, even if it should be already integrated in your solar panel electronics. Good sailing.
Sailing = Expensive! Growing up sailing I always knew this but I just bought my own 30ft Beneteau and gosh, I'm understanding it in a WHOLE new way! Happy sailing!
I am an evil architect and Marine Engineer I would say more than 50% of your failures are due to poor design and lower grade stainless steel 304 instead of 316 L another 20% or due to Continuous use a lot of the stuff is designed for just recreational eight week out of the year on the weekend to use
Sorry I forgot, engine belts- I too have a Yanmar- 50 hp. I also chewed up belts. One one notable occasion the belt split then broke and caught the oil pad under the engine. Compartment looked like I threw a chicken through a fan. I converted to a cogged V-belt, current belt is 8 yrs old. Not happy about your LED comment as I have just completed a complete change, thanks for the warning.
@@pacific7775 I agree, another interesting note, A white bulb in a red and green mast head lens will shine blue on the green side. Have to buy a combo bulb.
I just love this! thank you so much. Saving our money to buy a boat... 3 months in and we have worked out 2yrs of saving to buy... we will see you soon!
Put a blocking diode in line with your fuse. This should solve your problem...failing that a freewheeling blocking diode may be the answer. Diodes are extremely cheap, extremely effective.
Thanks br. I was thinking the same. Balachandra here's a link explaining what may be going on. Farther down the page is an explanation of use of blocking and bypass diodes in a solar setup. www.electronics-tutorials.ws/diode/bypass-diodes.html
Change the solar fuse to a 15 amp breaker instead that way when it trips you could just flip the breaker back on I don’t have to replace fuse’s every time. Maybe you can put sealant over the solar panel connectors?
Speaking as an Electrical Engineer, it sounds like you have an overarching electrical issue stemming from either your batteries or solar panels themselves.
Your red gas tank failed because you put the cap on to tight, gas expands way more then diesel, so in direct sunlight you need to have it on so it can vent (ie half a turn from full lock) .
Do you have to be a bona fide handy person to be able to cruise full time? It seems like everyone in sailing videos just knows how to do this stuff. Are there repair manuals you can get for these things??
Make covers for your fuel and water containers. Converted to an aluminum dink, gave up on deflatables. Still love my Yamaha 9.9, 2 stroke after 22 years. 4 strokes are always a hassle. Have a small Merc, 4 stroke as a spare- a pos. A temporary fix for a spun prop is to drill the hub - equal spacing, and screw through the rubber to pin it in place (it is NG anyway) just avoid the rocks.
Agreed. Our 2-stroke bearings just went :( ... i may strip down the whole engine and replace the bearings, crank, rings and gaskets. I love this motor and the parts are dirt cheap... but i don't really have the time or a workshop! .. maybe buy new. The drilled out props can't be re packed... but not many folks do the re-packing either
it like living in an RV full time too in the year this start to show their age fast winter life in one hard on it the best ones i had was the vans i turned them into an RV 53 and when i open the slide-outs open to a 16-foot floor opening sold that with the job i was working at never when back to work after that
Plastic gasolin cans are not supposed to be in direct sun light - most plastics does not like UV light. LED is fine but has a problem if the type/construction is not choosen wisely - LED's, and any other unsealed electronics, directly exposed to the environment, especially, the salty sea environment is a bad choice. All electronics (and solder joints) must be sealed . This is not less important with the outside mounted Solarc panels - btw a well done montage of a solar panel should had been sealed already. The failing fuce from your solar panel regulator to the battery sound like it is a poor quality - or there is an error somewhere else in the installation........ chargeregulator for the generator. You are not the first boat to head out with a poorly prepared electrical instalation and poorly choosen electronics - and you will not be the last - sorry :o/
totally agree. I seal and repair any connection I find from the PO’s that are sketchy. We always use heat shrink marine connectors. the LED bulbs cost nothing online so we just buy a whole bunch and replace when they fail, however the cheap ones probably fail more...
@@SailingBalachandra well that is on approach to solve the problem of having light. My approach is to buy the right environmentaly sealed and mount it the right way first time - it tent to be a much higher price up front but I am pretty sure if you start calculate, my approach will be cheaper sooner than you would expect. Most people get surpriced when I calculate the break-even, and they get even more surpriced when the calculation proves right. I learned that 40+ years ago and has earned good money many times for being able to do it. A very nice side-effect of paying up front ? - you never have to work in darkness and you save money in the end. LED lights are not the only thing that benefits from a TCO (TotalCostofOwnership) calculation - just about anytjing you need to rely on in any critical or non-critical situation and you can't get replacement right away.
Every time i go on an extended cruise, my wife makes fun of me for buying a large bucket of assorted sizes of stainless hose clamps. By the end of the cruise, I've gone through half the bucket. Every time.
Did you try Vaseline on your solar MC4 connectors? I always solder them. Never crimp. The boat propane stove should be perfect for soldering No. 10 wires. Don't use plumbing solder or acid core.
I like soldered copper wires and 60/40 solder instead of krimps. I insulate wire joints with fishtank tubing. Some LED light bulbs can be purchased with plastic or glass globes.
Seriously great idea for a video, I have been wondering this exact idea. Maybe next time if you do one of these videos again include prices that you paid for each part as I'm curious to the cost of these parts in the carribean vs your home country or the U.S. however it pretty clear that I should have these aboard before going. This was Extremely helpful!!!! Thanks and enjoy the Carribean ❣️
thanks, we’ll try to reference pricing in later videos. in a nutshell, the Caribbean is big and prices and availability is different all over but you will find that most marine stores are going to overcharge because you have no other options. our engine impeller was 4X the price in Grenada, but I bought one in St Marten for the book price from a Yanmar dealer.
hi Bill, I’m not that familiar with the MK’s but people ask about the 44 all the time. the #1 difference is fine tuning. the 44 has loads of adjustments to the sails and rig that most cruising boats don’t
replacing the fuse to a bigger one? please dont do that if the cables and other parts are not rated for higher amount. That fuse is there for a reason and it burns out like it should to prevent other things from melting and burning.
@@SailingBalachandra I have no experience of diodes but I hope you find a fix for it. Enjoyed the video keep up the good work on the vids and the boat.
Three things that never change with diesel motors no matter what they're in: oil consumption,oil and fuel filters,and a good water separator. There is a breaker type fuse you can get to replace inline fuse that plugs right in. And most poly gas cans don't hold up to ethanol fuels when storing.
Thanks. Are electric outboards a realistic replacement for dinghy engine (I know they are limited and slower) but seems to a good idea and no maintenance?
Excellent video. I will be adding a few more items to our spares list as a result. We are also from Canada and will head down to the Caribbean later this year or spring next year. Cheers
That barbecue grill: Had you ever considered using a *removable* magnesium sacrificial anode? (Magnesium melts at 629 C, aluminum and zinc at much lower temepratures. Warning: If you don't remove a magnesium sacrificial anode before the grill becomes hot, it will melt. When ignited, magnesium burn at a 3 times higher temperature than coal (at around 3,000 C)
cool idea... the high temperatures weakens stainless steel so the inside burner plate starts rusting after the first use. the zinc would prolong the life but I doubt it would last too much longer. the best prevention is to cover the bbq when at sea
Every Yanmar engine comes with a maintenance schedule... Why would anyone replace an impeller, if it is not recommended and there is nothing wrong with it? 🤔
Hi Nick, well, digging little bits of impellar rubber out of your entire cooling system is one heck of a nightmare... one you do not want to be doing underway, and there are no tow boats in Cuba. $50 = cheap insurance
You probably already know, but just in case: use dielectric grease on all your electrical connections. Reapplying grease regularly is a lot easier and cheaper than replacing corroded/failed connectors. Edit: posted before reading comments. Sorry :)
