Looks like your Husky pulls the chain okay and the longer bar works to reduce back strain. I’m with Billy Ray, “Stand up to buck🪵”. My MS 500i wears a 25” bar and the 462 runs a 28”. Works well for me.
@@Lifeinthe906 I have found that the extra bar length gives me several benefits: better work position for safety, balance, and reducing back strain. I also have observed my own tendency get cuts that are more square across the face of the log with longer bars…not sure if it’s the benefit of having a longer sight radius like on a rifle or whatever, but I definitely get better results and consistency in my cuts. Hopefully you see several benefits as well.
Great minds think alike! I just changed one of my big saws over to 404, I still have to make a minor adjustment to the bar adapter then I will switch the other one over to 404, double ended 72"🧡🔥👍🏼👊🏼
After reading replies online for and against slapping a 24” on a husky 55 rancher I decided to buy the 24” and I put it on and went to work. I only ran it about an hour or so out behind my family’s property on the mountain cutting some dead standing trees and a few leaners. I did a conventional face cut or two, a Humboldt, a few bore cuts and I experienced no problems what so ever other than getting the new chain in order which is the case with any new chain in any saw as far as I know. It ate right through the wood. The bore cut was ridiculously fast and clean. I’ll have to look at the saw and see what the item number is in the bar and chain because a lot of times with other setups I would stab a bore cut through the tree and the bar would be pinched but this setup allowed me to pull the bar out of the tree with ease. The only negative I noticed was the saw started losing muscle in the cut for a second or two at times but I believe that was user error because I haven’t adequately tuned my carb and I need to adjust the H screw a bit
Your going to like the 24" sugihara. I use a 24" sughi on both my 34 & 46 stihl saws. You will never look back. Have a good one from the Emerald Empire.
I run 3/8 on my 50cc saws, get more life than .325. If it's kept sharp cuts awesome 👍. I try to file after every tank never let saws get dull unless hit the dirt or something. Love your channel interesting content 👍hopefully you can make it to the firewood frenzy in eau Claire. Would be nice seeing you there.
I converted my 028super from 325 to 3/8 and went from a 16 inch bar to 18 inch bar and it pulls thru the wood easy I feel it would pull a bigger bar no problem
@@Lifeinthe906 The place I bought it from wanted the same price for the 572 xp as the 390xp. There's about 10 or 12 cc difference in motor. So it was a no brainer to get the 390. I love it. I'm gana get a 28 inch bar I think.
@@williamwallace9620 I believe that. I'm not sure about the 660 but the 390 is around 16 pounds without the bar and chain. I have the 395 xp as well and an older 372 xp. They are all great saws. I use the 372 with a 20 inch bar it's the perfect firewood saw
OMG YOU CANT DO THAT ON A 50CC SAW!!! Lol just kidding. I just put a lightweight 24 on Paulas 353. She loves it! Im running Archer full house. I think if she was gonna be cutting big wood all day id put skip on it. After a couple filings i will run the rakers at 0.025 too. You are gonna love that set up. I will weigh my bar and chain in a vid for ya. STAY SAFE buddy!!
I run a husky 460 w/24 or 20. The 24 is definitely an acquired taste thing but because of the length it is nose heavy. The 20 is way more balanced and it feels way lighter like a lot lighter lol. Plus you can feel the gain in rpm. But the 24 has its place and learning to use the tip of the saw on a longer bar is a good skill. I never used the tip with sort bars. But with the 24 it’s stand up and buck time lol
Nice video! But just an FYI, never set the clutch with the chain brake, as it can actually make the clutch come loose! The clutch will tighten naturally by normal cutting.
Hey David. The light bars are definitely lighter. The 24 I have on my Jonsered is over a pound lighter than the stock steel bar. And the Sugihara bars are basically the same price as a stock Husqvarna bar.
I have a 545 m2 as well. I think with a muffler mod it would pull a 24" 3/8" chain. It certainly pulls the stock .325" 20" chain with plenty of authority stock. Mine only has like 3 or 4 hours on it so it probably hasn't even "woken up" yet. I'm not sure if the oiler would keep up though 🤔
@@ocsplc Yeah I'm pretty impressed with it. It kind of replaced an old 450 Rancher in my lineup of saws and it definitely produces significantly more power while only being slightly heavier. It's one of the easiest saws to start I've ever used too. It pulls very easily for a 50cc saw. None of my Huskies has ever really let me down, I personally prefer them to Stihl saws but that's really just personal preference. They're both very good. I bought a 572xp last year and I've also been very impressed with that saw, it's very versatile. It will pull a 32" skip chain really well through the hardest woods I cut but I feel like it's at its best with a 24" full comp chain. Echo saws are nice too
I was planning on doing the same to my 261 when I first got it, but seeing that it needs crank seals I’ll just wait 🤣🤣 Oiling is a big factor, nice that it worked out well for ya!👍🏼 Watched BellHopper swapping bar/chain/sprocket combos on a hopped up Wild Thing with interesting outcome! Bless’ns to ya, Tedd
@@Lifeinthe906 we waited ten minutes and ten seconds for cutting..thumbs down for the video. Even if the idea is worth considering..you channel is a waste of time.
Should’ve probably used a skipper tooth chain…I handfile so that’s what I run on a couple hotrod 350’s… if you aren’t going to be sticking your entire bar it doesn’t matter much… in the 22” or bigger that skip really helps…
Something else that I really love about skipper is that you aren’t recutting and grinding up the cut chips in your groove… so it’s very efficient at extracting big fat full chips and with less teeth you can lower the rakes some more…it’s definitely not 1/2 as fast as a full comp chain…I really prefer the way it cuts when bucking….
I suppose Im just old and set in my ways? However I just dont see any advantage to a longer bar. Just more teeth to file and where in at in the Ozarks there are not very many large trees that require a long bar. I recently bought a Homelite 101 a manual oil 54 Cc saw. It had a 20 inch bar and dogs. I removed those felling spikes and installed a 14 inch bar. I take the fellling spikes off every saw I get. If the chain is sharp it will cut without them! I use a 16 inch bar on my 58 CC Homelite super Xl 12 and a 20 inch om my Lombard 68CC saw. I didnt get a bar with the Lombard and a 20 inch Oregon hard tip is the only bar in my hoard that fit the Lombards smaller studs. I have a 550 that has a 20 inch roller tip and thats plenty long. I dont care for the rollertip but thats what came on it when I bought it at auction for $20. I bought a new rancher 55 Husky in 2000. Never really liked that plastic saw. Came with a roller tip bar. I spent more time pulling the chain back on than I did sawing. So back to the dealer and got a shorter hard tip bar. Chain stayed on after that. It never oiled enough to suit me. I like a manual oiler. Plastic broke. Its now in a 51 case. Still have it and it still runs really good. I would trade it for a Vintage magnesium Homelite or Lombard.
Hey collector. Thanks for the great comment. The longer bar in this case is for posture most of all. I have a lot of smaller diameter firewood to process right now so the bar helps keep me standing up! Thanks for watching
@@Lifeinthe906 I suppose it will keep you standing? If you watch my video of making fence post I do get down on the ground a bit. Im 70 and It simply dont bother me to squat or get down on my knees. As they say different strokes for different folks. It all good.
i posted a vid on the equipment i have and gave a brief plan for the troy-bilt i have! also my antique gear! old but still works! still struggling with u-tube!
New subscriber and troll (Michigan troll, not internet troll) and just curious what area you're in the U.P.? My family has a cabin in the Grand Marais area, and we love it there. Thanks for the videos!
The problem with the bigger rim sprocket is more than just torque and chain speed, it changes the way the drive links feed into the bar, and a loose chain that would otherwise feed just fine will get thrown much easier and the damage is not worth it. Maybe you didn't have this problem, but I had a saw I wanted to convert from drive to rim and it was not worth the risk. They don't make a 6 tooth rim sprocket. Kind of the only way to reduce the circumference, but I'm sure there are reasons for that too.
@@Lifeinthe906 The way mine would have been, is the chain basically hovered over the slope or beveled bar ramp and the drive links didn't enter the groove till the top of the bar and I just canned the idea at that point. It's pretty clear in your video that things look perfectly normal for your set up. I guess I was just putting it out there that there are potential unforeseen consequences when increasing the diameter of the drive sprocket.
Well, this particular 24'' bar is made for a 3/8'' chain & sproket and for small mount Husky's. Why should there be any problem if every part match with each other ?
@@vzmax6230 Well the rim sprocket kit and clutch I got was for my saw and fits my saw but that doesn't mean anything. Just because you can throw a 28-inch bar on something has nothing to do with whether or not it's ideal. You need to consider the angle that the chain is when coming off the top of the rim drive, and how it relates to the entry point of the bar groove. It also changes the adjustment range; a bigger rim sprocket will require the bar to be nearer to the clutch because it's enlarging the overall oval size. Likewise, just the opposite, the further the bar from the sprocket, the farther the drive link will have to travel before entering the bar groove, giving a loose chain plenty of opportunity to miss, due to wear or saw chips or angle you are running it. the potential is there. If you run out of adjustment, let's say because you ran an 8-tooth rim, you would then have to make your own chain lengths possibly 85 86 drive links instead of 84, for the 24-inch bar you are referring to because you might not be able to get the chain on at all.They also make a 9-tooth rim sprocket. All I'm saying is some things require more than just a simple swap even though it fits. I wasn't being critical; I was merely sharing some food for thought. Now if people are copying exactly what this gentleman is doing with the exact same saw, then great! Otherwise, these are things to consider. Cheers.
how do you like that 550? have you had any engine computer problems ? i have been looking for a spare saw , but have always used stihls. i have only seen 1 person have a husky 460 and was impressed after we tweaked it. i would love to get a 562 and a 550 , but going with 1 first. i would like something that could be used for fruit tree pruning. but cut lots of firewood also. along the prograde side. i've been running a stihl 362 since 2008. cutting 20 to 30 cords a year. that holding teh saw above your head pruning and brush cutting , are hrd on your shoulders
I have had no problems with it so far. It's a great saw and pretty light weight. I was a little apprehensive about the auto- tune also but so far it's been good.
@@Lifeinthe906 @Life in the 906 maybe it's nice for cutting lots of thin trees at the same time. I think in hard wood it doesn't make sense. But maybe softwood like this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QeFp-jmUPS0.html
Any saw can use a 24 inch bar to cut 9 or 10 inch diameter wood even a 30 cc saw . But not every saw can use a 24 inch bar cutting a 24 inch diameter of wood . I have had a 550xp for 5 years and it gives up when using an 18 inch bar when the full lot is in the wood the torque on the 550xp is absolutely terrible. My echo cs501sx absolutely walks all over it and it would probably not be able to use the full 24 inch in wood hell even a 560xp or 562xp would struggle so what exactly is the point of this video to make people go and buy 24inch bars for there 550xp and blow them up trying to cut big wood . Really think before you post stuff like this
I've been running the 24 on this saw for almost a year. It performs well. If you don't just lean on it and let the properly sharpened chain do its thing. It hasn't blown up yet!! Thanks for watching.
@@Lifeinthe906 I have a 550xp and it hardly copes with an 18inch bar in the wood are you trying to say you use a 550xp with the ful 24inchl bar in the wood because if you are you are talking absolute nonsense. 10 or 15inch yes do that no probs 18inch starts to struggle and bogs pretty easy and 24inc it would never be able to do it and if you are your saw won't last for long hell I would not even be able to do that hardly with a 560xp . Nonsense bud complete nonsense
@@Lifeinthe906 sharpened correctly for the wood I think it wood work well. Also you can change the tip on that bar to a .325 tip and still have 24 inch. I thought the saw sounded great in the wood. It kept it from over revving. If you go back to the 20 inch 325 get that chain sharp so it keeps a load on that saw the way it does with the 3/8. I think a skip tooth wood be perfect balance of rpm and low end. JMO. Love ya man🌲❤🌲👊🪓
If you're looking to save your back it will work fine. The rancher has less power than the 550 but will still pull the 24. Sharp chain and let the saw cut. Don't bog it down.